MONTY Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 I inherited a 66cj5 and in time I'd like to restore it, let's say "High hopes!". As far as I can tell there have been no modifications, stock replacement of parts. For now Id rather keep the engine/ ignition/ suspension stock. This may well be a play toy for the wife and I, mild but little wheeling. There are a few things that need attention. First is the wiring, it's been butchered. So is there a source for a direct replacement harness? Second, Tires and Wheels. Im looking at 235 75r 15 tires with some aftermarket rims. My only concern is the way the jeep is geared, is that tire TOO big of a diameter. Seats to be replaced. Oh and the color WILL BE CHANGED!!!! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike J - MJ Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Sorry, I have nothing to offer as it relates to restoration, but I just wanted to say that is a beautiful Jeep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 Thanks. The ol girl is pretty solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted January 16, 2017 Administrators Share Posted January 16, 2017 Very fortunate place to start, Monty! The Jeep is highly original and looks intact with the prized 225 V-6 engine. Is that a PTO winch? Wiring is a big undertaking in general. Painless Wiring and others offer "universal" wiring harnesses that are not difficult to install. I used a kit like this when wiring the 1955 CJ-5 Jeep that is featured in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71 (Bentley Publishers). This book, incidentally, would cover a lot of your restoration chores and provide additional insights, it's available in the book trade, at Amazon and through several 4WD parts retailers. You have a great beginning...Yes, the color change would be an enhancement! The tires you propose would be okay with the 225 V-6 engine power and the likely gear ratio. 3.73:1 is most common in CJs with the V-6; you can confirm the ratio at the axle tag. Keep us posted, your photos are great! Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 Moses, I do have your "rebuilders" book and missed Painless Wiring. And yes it does have a Koenig pto winch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60Bubba Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Monty, Moses' book will be a lifesaver. It does look like a solid platform from which to start a restoration. As for wiring, I did a frame up restoration of an '83 CJ-7. While everything I read about the Painless harness said they were top notch, the price was anything but Painless. I ultimately went with a Centech harness. They have many of the same features as Painless such as labeled high temperature rated wire. They also use (at least on my kit) a custom WeatherPak firewall pass through that is fully sealed. You will have to terminate some of the connections, as they leave them open so you can set the exact length of the circuit. Unlike others, MOST of the circuits like the tail lights are pre-terminated, as the routing and needed wire length is fairly static for those. Another advantage I found with Centech is their willingness to customize. My CJ has a Cherokee powertrain in it. The EFI engine requires the addition and deletion of a few wires to keep things tidy. Centech did those without additional charge. Looks like their early CJ kit retails for $389. I would at least give them a ring and see how their kit compares to Painless. Case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted January 18, 2017 Administrators Share Posted January 18, 2017 Good suggestion for Monty...Thanks for sharing your experience and the details, 60Bubba! Yes, a tailored harness would be much easier than starting from scratch with a "universal" wiring kit. The price seems reasonable for the major time savings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoopy2x Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hi Monty, Very nice jeep! It reminds me a lot of my '67 CJ5 when I bought it 7 years ago. Walck's 4WD built the wiring harness for mine, and I can honestly say that it is superb in every way. It is also probably as close to the original wiring harness in appearance as could be re-created today, though the quality of the materials exceeds the original factory specifications and electrical requirements. The ends are soldered, and the wire lengths are pre-determined, which helps to minimize the work necessary to install the harness. It not only fit well, but came with the proper connectors, bulb sockets, etc. Carl Walck builds these harnesses himself, and is available by phone to answer any questions that may arise during installation. Since he builds each one individually, Carl is able to customize them as necessary. He also sends a questionnaire to fill out before he builds it, in order to make sure he correctly accommodates for various production changes that were made within model years (for example, back-up lights were added during the mid-1967 model year). Here's a link to Walck's website's page on wiring harnesses: http://walcks4wd.com/walcks-willyswiringharnesses/ I would highly recommend Walck's, not only for wiring harnesses, but for most any other Jeep parts you may need. Carl and his family are, as the saying goes, "Good People". I also agree 100% with 60Bubba's comment re. Moses' book....you've given an ideal gift to your new mistress! Maury Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 Thanks for the input and ideas! Snoopy2x thanks for the site. Where I'm not looking at staying period specific I'm leaning on 60bubba's thoughts. Centech's harness appears to be what I'm looking for. Add a few waterproof connectors and a good quality loom. I won't have to worry for ALONG time. Phone call time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
53HiHood Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Great looking Jeep Monty. I picked up a wiring harness from Rebel Wire for my Willys build. Quality wire with labeling at a great price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 While I'm waiting for harness to show up. I find I need new gaskets for oil bath breather, there is 1 inside and 1 where it sets on the carb (this one is gone). My local parts store was at a loss. Any ideas?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted January 27, 2017 Administrators Share Posted January 27, 2017 Try some of the vintage parts sources, Monty. Also try Fram and Felpro catalogs. NAPA was once good at supplying these kinds of parts; Tractor Supply, John-Deere and other tractor parts sources would be good prospects... Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Couple of things, I was looking for a gasket for the air breather to set on. I found it at RockAuto.com, under a buck. Been working on my wiring harness, been stumbling here and there. Not sure on this one. The wires for the wipers, got 2 red-1 for each wiper motor, 1 brown, 1 blue. The brown and blue continue to the right side. Do I need a separate red(power) for each motor? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 I want to add that wires from the wipers ended at the bottom of the widow. No signs of them ever been connected, no switch on the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted March 19, 2017 Administrators Share Posted March 19, 2017 snoopy2X shared his excellent wiper motor rebuild steps, Bosch OEM wiper motors like yours...He'll have your wiring questions fresh in mind! Let's see whether he catches your post, Monty... Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoopy2x Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 (Yep, caught it, Moses! ) Monty, the two red wires are the main power wires running from the switch (assuming you still have an original working switch - for photos of an original, see the link Moses included above) to each motor. The brown is the "parking" power wire, and the blue is the ground. This post on the EarlyCJ5 site, as I mentioned in the thread on rebuilding the American Bosch wiper motors, references this original wiring arrangement: http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/wiper-motor-question.107558/#post-1318035 As is also mentioned in that thread, Walcks 4WD can make a repro of the wiper wiring harness, which is separate from the main harness, for you. If your switch is not original, you could have Walcks install blade connectors on the new harness, and/or bridge the two main power wires to allow you to use a different switch. The original switches are no longer available. I'll be glad to try to answer any questions about this that I can! Maury Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted March 21, 2017 Administrators Share Posted March 21, 2017 Thanks, Maury...Monty is getting fresh, firsthand information from your recent wiper motor restoration work! Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 Thanks! When I get home I'll know what to do. Could one of you put up a pic of how you routed the wires. The transition from the window to\into the dash. Looking for ideas. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoopy2x Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 Monty, the routing of the wire as shown in this photo is the same as the original factory routing in the '66 and '67 CJ5s with the one-speed electric wipers. The noticeable slack in the wiring harness is there in order to allow the windshield to be folded down. You'll need a grommet to fit the hole in the dash panel (mine is 3/4" dia.) with a 1/4" hole in the center. Here's what I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-12S-Pack-Of-10-Black-Rubber-Split-Grommets-A-1-B-1-4-C-1-4-D-1-16-E-3-4-in-/131966938623?hash=item1eb9d7adff:g:HKoAAOSwv0tU5LrG&vxp=mtr See the note at the end of the wiper motor rebuild thread for the wiring clamps that attach the harness to the windshield frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 I was curious what that hole was for?? LOL Thanks snoopy2x With me being gone through the week driving and spend time on the weekends working on the Jeep, my Wife and I joked that she had became a Jeep Widow. So I got her this. She just laughed and said she loved it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted March 25, 2017 Administrators Share Posted March 25, 2017 We've all been there, Monty! Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Quick question, on this new harness it has an "exciter" wire that comes off the new alternator. That would go to the Amp light on the speedo cluster? Or an Amp meter. Or I can just terminated it, correct? I can not find the paperwork that talks about that wire. Been plugging away at this harness, its a slow process when one is gone through the week. but I'm gaining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I was getting ready to wire the wipers and discovered I have a loose wire inside. Then after reading snopp2x's thread and opening the other motor I find that I'm missing the plastic piece with the brass button. Any ideas?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted April 11, 2017 Administrators Share Posted April 11, 2017 Question for snoopy2x! He'll jump in, I'm sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 I had purchased a equus elec oil pressure gauge. Finally got to the point to install the sensor. And the sensor is too big in diameter. So my question is there a problem just swapping out sensors, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ps243 ? This one is much smaller diameter. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted July 30, 2017 Administrators Share Posted July 30, 2017 Hi, Monty...Did you get past the wiper motor contact issue? Do you need snoopy2x to reply here? I followed your link, and the sender shown is for Ford applications. I looked up the Jeep V-6 sender, it also fits several Ford engines. You do need a sender with the correct threads, but the sender must also match the ohms rating for the Jeep dash gauge. Look the sender up by both the Buick V-6 engine and vehicle type, you need compatibility between a sender that fits properly and also has the right ohms resistance range to make the gauge read accurately. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted July 31, 2017 Author Share Posted July 31, 2017 I saw that the sender was designed to fit ford motors, I did not know about the ohms, I'll half to do some more research to find one that will fit. I ended up buying new wiper motors like you put on your jeep in your book. Thanks much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted August 2, 2017 Administrators Share Posted August 2, 2017 Monty...Those wipers worked okay...Not the same as OEM Bosch but they have proven reliable—at least here in the high desert! You might want to seal any areas where moisture could creep into the motors. Keep us posted on the oil sender that works...There should be an OEM replacement sender available. Try Crown or Omix-ADA. If needed, we can look up the OEM part number for the sender and cross it over to a common brand like Echlin. Let me know whether you need the OE part number for the sender. Year of the chassis is '66, and the Buick/Jeep Dauntless V-6 engine looks original. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share Posted August 9, 2017 Moses, thanks for the tip on the wiper motors. As for the sending unit I cheated, I thought why not a fitting with a 45 degree angle. So thats what I did. I was going to load a pic but was unable to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted August 9, 2017 Administrators Share Posted August 9, 2017 The fitting should work fine, Monty. Angle fittings are common on many engines. Often the sender needs to set on an angle. If the right size and pointed in the right direction, it should work well. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 Hello I've been looking at wheels/tires and I need to verify my thoughts with you. Judging for the pics and the measurements shown the stud pattern would be a 5 by 5, correct? As you can see the holes are worn, enlarged. I do not have a tire shop the will test a wheel for proper fit available in my area. So I'll be taking a lot of measurement's to determine the size needed. Most likely 15/16 in by 7 with 5 by 5 bolt pattern. Leaning to the 7 in width due to clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted June 28, 2018 Administrators Share Posted June 28, 2018 Hi, Monty...These are traditional, stock CJ wheels: 5-on-5.5" bolt pattern. The measurement is taken as the bolt circle, not the space between two bolt hole centers. This size has been popular for vintage Jeep, light Dodge truck, Ford truck and I-H models. Two critical concerns with your wheel choice will be 1) steering and spring or body clearance and 2) the wheel offset or "backspacing". The right backspacing will provide clearance for the brake drums and also the correct steering angles... Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 Been plugging away on my "mistress". It appears that the heater control is intact. But the vacuum does not appear to be working right. The hole at the 10 o-clock position seems to be the supply position. When I place the hose on the the hole at 10 o-clock with the DEF pushed in air blows thru the other 2 holes. With the AIR pushed in , air only comes thru the hole at 4 o-clock. With the OFF pushed in no air flows out of either of the holes. Seems to be a problem with the defrost. Is there anything that can be done? Thanks, Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted April 4, 2019 Administrators Share Posted April 4, 2019 Hi, Monty! Interesting...So, you're applying vacuum to the port at 10 o'clock? It would seem that you need the option of AIR and DEF functioning at the same time. Otherwise, you would have either defrost only or heat (floorboard) only. If AIR is ambient air ducting through the heater core, that would allow heat without the blower on. Typically, the flaps open with vacuum, not with pressurized air. What you would want is to have vacuum apply to the defroster flap with the DEF pushed in. You would want air to flow from the floorboard vents with the AIR pushed in. That should help determine which port on the switch is the vacuum source. Your vacuum supply source should be vacuum from the engine (manifold), a constant source that is either OFF or directed to the AIR or DEF flaps, depending upon the position of the vacuum switch. Make sense? I'll watch for your reply... Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 Moses, I was trying to figure out how the controler worked. Not having a steady supply of vacuum, I was blowing into the controler to determine how it functioned. Having disassemble the controller, nothing appeared to be worn out or missing, which is good! My original thoughts was that on "defrost" ALL of the the air would be diverted to the defrost vents. That is not the case, it appears that it will be split 50, 50. I've tested the diaphragm's and they are holding a vacuum. Soo all I mite do is refinish the controll panel and put things back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted May 9, 2019 Administrators Share Posted May 9, 2019 Well, Monty, this is restoration!...Paths are not often clear, but you figured out how this works. 50/50 warm air split split sounds right. These heaters/defrosters actually work well when functional. Suggestion if the control is still apart: Put a piece of very fine wet-and-dry sandpaper on flat glass. Lube the paper with WD-40 or a similar penetrant. Work the pieces in your photo in a circular motion on the surface of the paper. An alternative is Autosol Metal Polish placed directly on the glass, use the same motion with the parts: https://www.amazon.com/Autosol-Utosol-0400-Metal-Polish/dp/B003XJ1ODM/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2XSOKCQ8QI8O6&keywords=autosol+metal+polish&qid=1557407568&s=gateway&sprefix=autosol%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-9 .) This will take out any surface warp or scoring. Don't remove any more material than necessary to clean and true up the mating surfaces. The effort will reduce risk of vacuum leaks. Make sure that these mating pieces are tensioned properly to maintain vacuum seal. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted December 4, 2019 Author Share Posted December 4, 2019 Good morning, it's been awhile since I posted anything. Moses I've been cleaning up and checking the winch. I'm not sure it I've got the thrust bearing in correct. You can see in the last pic, there are the caps , the bearing then the gear. When I turn the shaft the ".outside" part of the bearing(next to the cap)starts to turn. The left beaning does the same but not as quick. I've also put up picks of the bearings for reference. Now my thoughts are the "out side" part of the bearing should not be turning. Did I install them backwards? The bearing against the cap, turning, that's NOT good. The bearings are in excellent shape, especially considering the oil that came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted December 4, 2019 Administrators Share Posted December 4, 2019 Hi, Monty...What is your winch type, make and model? I'll check for a parts schematic that shows the orientation of these parts. The shown pieces appear to be in good shape! Vintage quality...Compare this to contemporary winches. Season's Best! Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted December 4, 2019 Author Share Posted December 4, 2019 It's a Koenig winch. I believe its a ??100 model, I added a pic of outer case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted December 4, 2019 Author Share Posted December 4, 2019 Ok I found this, https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/koenig-pto-winch.624/#lg=_xfUid-6-1575495324&slide=0 . Looking at the diagram, the part numbers for the bearings are different. I have T88 bearings the diagram say KT88 bearings. Right off I'm unable to find a supplier for the KT88 bearing. Timken makes the T88 bearing. I've got to verify the size. https://cad.timken.com/keyword/thrust-tapered-roller-bearings/thrust-osciliating-tapered-roller-bearings-type-tt?keyword=t88&key=product&SchType=2&filter=1# Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted December 4, 2019 Administrators Share Posted December 4, 2019 Monty...As a guess, the "KT88" bearing is likely a Timken T88. The "K" could be for "Koenig" parts inventory replacement purposes. Below is an illustration of the T88 Timken bearing. Does this look like a match? If this is it, the number is current, and retail price has it at $10-$15 from a variety of sources. I've added two part numbers that Timken still uses. The links are live and go to Motion Industries. If you can confirm the bearing fit (see sizes), the bearing is available from any Timken source. There is a small image below the larger one that may be helpful. Moses Timken T88W-904A3 Tapered Roller Thrust Bearing - 0.885 in Bore, 1.8906 in OD, 0.594 in Width Timken T88-904A1 Tapered Roller Thrust Bearing - 0.885 in Bore, 1.8906 in OD, 0.594 in Width Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted December 14, 2019 Author Share Posted December 14, 2019 "I'M BACK" LOL Well this has been a learning experience. I ended up showing the winch to a retired mechanic. He actually worked on a couple of these ol girls in the past. He said I was over thinking, being worried about the way the thrust bearing spins and all. In our talk he said I was right that the gaskets acted as shims in getting proper pressure on the bearings. Two new T88-904A1 bearings some trial and error, 3 gaskets on one side and 2 on the other side and I feel that things will work fine when I get a chance to test it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted December 17, 2019 Administrators Share Posted December 17, 2019 Let us know how this works out, Monty. What lube will you use in the unit? What did Koenig recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 Not sure what Koenig recommends. I used Lucus 80/90 gear oil. It turns VERY smooth, on that I'm very happy. On 12/4/2019 at 9:17 AM, Moses Ludel said: Hi, Monty...What is your winch type, make and model? I'll check for a parts schematic that shows the orientation of these parts. The shown pieces appear to be in good shape! Vintage quality...Compare this to contemporary winches. Season's Best! Moses I look at this and compared to today's winches. There's little doubt that this will outlast 98 percent of today's winches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted January 12, 2020 Administrators Share Posted January 12, 2020 Monty...Your modern gear lube is a better product than lube available when this winch was new. As for the lifespan of a Koenig PTO winch in good condition, you have a winner! Koenig's Texas base was a hint about its primary market: oil field trucks and industrial applications. This was not a recreational market, and commercial usage demanded efficiency and reliability. Hoisting equipment was another market, and Koenig winches were often seen on wreckers and tow trucks. Ramsey and Koenig competed with each other for this commercial market, and each became popular in the emerging recreational markets. Koenig had a firm market in oilfield work, mining, mineral exploration, hoisting and industrial winches. Yes, you have an "industrial strength" winch, and PTO power is the ultimate torque source with gearing—as long as the engine is not stalled while stream fording or scaling a rock wall. Here, an electric winch prevails. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 This quite the undertaking! The front rt frame was bent. Sooo after some studying. I did some heating and welding I ended up boxing the the front part of the the frame. Actually I did both sides. Time will tell. I got some tempered/hardened metal from a car hauler that was being cut up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted March 6, 2020 Administrators Share Posted March 6, 2020 Looks straight now, Monty. Only remaining question is frame tensile strength after heating. These frames are fairly flexible in stock form, and you reinforced/boxed the forward rails nicely. This likely nailed it...If this works, great! If you need to revisit the issue in the future, consider a shackle reversal approach. This places the anchors at the front end of the leaf springs and shackles at the rear of the front springs. The aftermarket kits or home approaches emulate the M38A1 military design. My '55 CJ-5 (first year CJ-5) was fortunate enough to have an M38A1 military type frame from the factory. This was the approach in '55 and some '56 CJs until your frame layout became standard for the CJ-5 and CJ-6 models. Some early CJ-5/CJ-6 builds had a factory two-piece windshield from the M38A1. The shackle reverse allows the front springs to trail from the front anchors. With anchors at the rear of the springs (your chassis), the frame is pushing the front axle forward with the springs. Off-pavement, the shackle reverse enables the axle to rise and set easier when tires press against a rock wall or other immovable objects. With the stock layout (your CJ's design), when the front tires press against an obstacle, the front springs arch and wrap up until enough energy "bounces" the axle upward. On the highway, the shackle reverse makes a considerable difference in steering control and handling. My Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71 (Bentley Publishers) illustrates the 1955 CJ-5's frame design. My Jeep® Owner's Bible and Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 illustrate aftermarket shackle reverse kits. There are several aftermarket sources for CJ shackle reverse kits. Just some things to consider...Enjoy that Jeep!!! Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted March 7, 2020 Author Share Posted March 7, 2020 Keeping / hurting the frame tensile strength was a HUGH concern of mine. After ALOT of reading and then talking to a couple of welders, I preheated the frame to 600-700 degrees, welded then blanket wrapped the weld and let cool. Doing this process took some time but I was told this was the best way to weld on tempered steel/frames. I doubt I'll be doing any serious wheeling, just some light trails. For the most part she'll be a pavement Queen. Thank you for the info/ reminder on the reverse shackles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted March 7, 2020 Administrators Share Posted March 7, 2020 Monty...By allowing the controlled cool-down, you had the best shot at stabilizing/restoring the grain structure and makeup of the metal. The biggest mistake some do with metal like this is cooling it abruptly with cold water. That freezes the heated metal in its expanded state while the grain structure is modified. Even though your approach is short of re-heat treating, there would be some softening of the overall tensile in the heated area due to possible annealing or normalizing. Like you say, though, the road and trails are the test. You'll most likely be fine and never have an issue here, especially with the reinforcement and boxing of the C-rails. These frames soften and metal fatigue naturally from flexing over time, yet they continue to offer service...You did a sensible approach for heat bending. Some argue that cold frame straightening is better. However, once metal stretches from bending it's not granularly/structurally the same, anyway. You avoided the risk of further metal stress from cold bending. I would pat yourself on the back for being thoughtful and doing your homework. Boxing the frame rails with stitch welds is always a good practice. This allows necessary frame flex. You made the effort to do the right thing. Now enjoy that Jeep and get some miles on it to test your handiwork! Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted June 8, 2020 Author Share Posted June 8, 2020 Good morning, I hope everyone is great during these crazy times. I didn't work for six weeks soooo I spent my time finishing the mistress. Thought I'd share some final pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted June 8, 2020 Administrators Share Posted June 8, 2020 Wow, Monty!!! What a metamorphosis, the color is a knockout! The CJ-5 looks terrific...Did you prep and spray it yourself? The finish looks great. Umm..."Class of '66". I graduated high school in '67 and took my first four-wheel driving exam in '65 (driving a near new '64 CJ-5). Your CJ would fit my yearbooks! Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted June 8, 2020 Author Share Posted June 8, 2020 Moses there's a story on the color. The wife wanted a bumblebee. I ended up using KBS Coatings for all of my paint. I had bought a quart and a couple of spray cans of their yellow. They ended up 2 different shades. The spray cans had the shade of yellow I was looking for. So I ended up using sray cans to paint her. The clear coat was sprayed on. I've never painted a vehicle before. I am very happy with the end results. I still have some "flow gauges " to wet sand, lol. That will be my winter project plus adding a spare tire mount in back. But it's summertime, and the wife and I are going to enjoy her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted June 8, 2020 Administrators Share Posted June 8, 2020 Looks great, Monty! KBS is quality coating...I use spray guns but also have a Turbine Products Breathe Cool fresh air supply system to avoid VOCs. If you're using a safety respirator, that should be sufficient for KBS spray cans. Now you're headed for what a Jeep is really about: enjoying it for the summer with a bikini top, roll cage and plenty of fresh air! Have fun, your wife will soon believe there's a point to all this...I'm guessing that you've got the hardtop still for cooler/cold weather. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike House Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 Awesome rebuild and story to go with it! I have recently started a CJ3b project and it looks like it will be a ground up rebuild due to the condition of everything on it. Thanks for sharing. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTY Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 I hope everyone and a excellent 4th of July Thanks Mike House. I look forward to seeing your rebuild. Moses A friend of mine has a M38A1 (beautifully restored) He showed me his spare tire mount on the tailgate. Kaiser Willys has it, https://www.kaiserwillys.com/spare-tire-carrier-mounting-bracket-fits-52-66-m38a1 . It looks like a possible option. One would have to reinforce the inside of the tailgate of course. In one breath it would simplify mounting the spare tire. Most like I would have to insert bolts in the tailgate chain brackets. Your thoughts?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Moses Ludel Posted July 14, 2020 Administrators Share Posted July 14, 2020 Hi, Monty, thanks for joining us! I looked at the mount, it has a "classic" appearance and is well constructed. With oversized tires, I always run a bumper/frame-mounted swing away tire mount. This places weight at the rear frame instead of sheet metal. Your wheel/tire package is not terribly heavy, but the load on a tailgate or a side-mount to sheet metal would be significant. There is also the issue of loosening the hinges and rattling the tailgate...I would use a swing-away, frame/bumper mount spare carrier...My view. Moses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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