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Warn 6 Bolt Manual Locking Hub O-Rings


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Does anyone know where to source the 2 O-rings needed for the 6 bolt hub style shown in the attachment?

The outer ring is broken and brittle. It is square with a small groove on the back side.

 The inner ring is round and pictured still attached to the selector knob.

DSCN1394.JPG

Thanks

William

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William, I'm not sure what model year your CJ is, but I know the late 70's models still used the 6 bolt hubs, so I searched for a 1976 just as an example.  The picture shows a 5 bolt, but if you put in the correct year, you should get the rebuild kit you need.  The description does say it's for the Warn Premium hubs.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Locking-Hub-Service-Kits.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5255

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60Bubba,

Forgot to mention, but I already had purchased the rebuild kit from Warn (WAR7300) before I ever took them down. Correct kit, just doesn't have any parts I really need. I though the O-ring pictured in the kit would work, That was a waste of $30. 

Since my post, and a lot of digging, I found two part numbers.

SE206 4000 (outer ring)

SE206 4058 (inter ring)

Still no source to purchase. Most threads indicate that Warn no longer lists them,

Real bummer since I spent nearly 3 hours cleaning all the old gunk and RTV from the locking hub adapters and completely disassembled, cleaned, and repacked the Torention bearings without losing a single one of those tiny little needles before finding the bad O-rings. Must have been at least 40 of the little fellas in each hub adapter bearing. At least I have a nice set of locking hub bearings. Ha Ha

Still hoping someone will have a source for the O-Rings, otherwise I am looking at new hubs. Wife will hit the roof, especially since this project has already cost spindles, bearings, and seals for both sides. Ha Ha

Thanks

William

 

 

 

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Bummer.  I found it very frustrating when I had functional components that just needed fresh consumable parts and none were available.  I ended up replacing my 5 bolt hubs with Superwinch hubs.  Great price and all metal.  I also ditched the bolts that attach the lockouts to the hub and went with a stud-and-nut setup.

I don't know if it is a big problem on the 6 bolt hubs, but the 5 bolt hubs were notorious for having the bolts come loose and shear off.  When I took mine apart, 4 of the 10 bolts on the 2 hubs were not even finger tight!

Good luck with your search.  Do you have access to a Fastenal or similar store?  They might have something that would work.

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William H, if you only need the O-rings with square edges, try this source.  My only concern would be the small quantities you need.  The business is the O-Ring Store:

Square Rings Buna-N 70D

Let us know what you turn up and the part number(s).  As a footnote, you're better off with your 6-bolt freewheeling hubs, for sure!  I had an '81 CJ-5 project vehicle years ago that still used 6-bolt free wheeling hubs.  That was the transition year, and I got lucky.  The Mopar catalog only shows 5-bolt wheel hubs in 1981.  

For those with 5-bolt freewheeling hubs, as 60Bubba shares, the 5-bolt hubs introduced in 1981 were notorious for loosening their bolts/hardware.  Some solutions are: 1) drilling and stainless steel wire tying bolts like you would a race vehicle or motorcycle, 2) use of high tensile studs with threads on both ends and either Grade 8 Nyloc (nylon insert "aircraft nuts") or Grade 8 toplock (all steel with crimped top threads) nuts or 3) replace the 5-bolt hubs with the earlier 6-bolt style.  

I would go for the 6-bolt freewheeling hubs.  Hard studs and Grade 8 nuts would be very stable; however, rather than loosen threads, it's possible that the 3/8" threads in the wheel hub would wear out from the stress and load.  The weakness is that the entire driving force of the axle shafts is delivered through only five bolts or studs to the wheel hubs and wheels.  The torque force is just too great for only five 3/8" U.S.S. thread bolts or studs.  The worst thing for a 5-bolt freewheeling hub application is oversized wheels and tires.

When making a 5- to 6- bolt hub conversion, make sure you match the original rotor size and rotor offset to align the caliper properly.  Use new wheel studs.  (Removing old studs and re-installing them is not a good practice.)  You'll need a press and back-up support at the rotor and the hub flange to prevent warping the hub flange when you install the rotors (new or used) with new wheel studs.  If rotors are in questionable condition, this is a good time to replace the rotors.

For those converting from a 1981-86 5-bolt freewheeling hub to a 6-bolt type, here's an example of the hub style you're seeking:

http://www.omix-ada.com/front-axle-hub-assembly-6-bolt-66-81-jeep-cj-models.html

Here's what you currently have:

http://www.omix-ada.com/front-axle-hub-assembly-5-bolt-81-86-jeep-cj-models.html

Moses

 

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Moses,

Thanks for the link for the square O-Rings. You may be correct about the minimum quantity.

I have also experienced loose locking hub bolts. The Winter of 77-78 was especially tough for the eastern US. I exploded a set of locking hubs due to loose bolts. Not a good time for that to happen. I was 21, my only vehicle, making $4.50/hr, and no dry place to work. I bet you know what a CJ5 with 304 engine and front end disabled handles like in deep snow.  You know the saying is "If it don't kill us, it will make us stronger".

When JC Fab built the 85 CJ7 that I have now, they must have retrofitted it with 77-79 front wheel parts. I now have, in my opinion, one of the better front wheel setups that AMC ever released on a CJ. It has the 1 1/8" thick rotors, 6 bolt style calipers and 6 bolt hubs.

My solution, good or bad, for loosening 6 bolt locking hub bolts has been as follows:

1. "Carefully" clean out the threads with a tap.

2. Install new grade 8 bolts and lock washers each time. You can buy them in bulk at Tractor Supply.

3. Retorque  "one time" after break-in.

Thanks

William

P.S.

Heads up. I expect delivery of your book "Jeep CJ Rebuilders Manual" in a couple of days. My next project that I hope to finish before spring, will be a complete rebuild of the Dana 300 and T5. In addition to the rebuilds, I want to specifically address the common jumping out issue of a twin stick Dana 300 and leaking fluid from the rear of the T5. The T5 is loosing nearly a quart in about 4K miles, otherwise performs as expected. The Dana 300 has the 4:1 gear and rotation ring. At this time, I don't know who made the gear and rotation ring kits. 

Be prepared, I am sure their will be questions. :) I expect this project to be quite expensive as most likely it will cost me a Florida vacation in May by the time wife has her say. :)

 

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William,

You may have noticed my other thread about transmission woes.  I just got the call that my new (old) T19 will be delivered tomorrow.  If you want a spare to tinker with, I know a guy with a recently rebuilt T-5 that works great in 1st through 4th!

Also, if you want a stock Dana 300 with 2.62:1 lo range, I can take that 4:1 Dana 300 off your hands :)

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Bubba,

Hope you have good luck with your T19. I will take a look at your transmission thread.

Where is that T5 located you mentioned? If the cost and distance are right, I like to tinker.

Will keep you in mind on the Dana 300 :)

William

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