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78 CJ7 Suspension Upgrade


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Moses,

I am getting ready to completely go through the suspension on the CJ including replacing all bushings and rubber pieces underneath the CJ as well as shocks, spring bushings, tie rod ends and anything else that needs to be done.

I would like your opinion on Poly vs Rubber for body mounts?  I have used Poly on all of the Scouts and they rode OK, but I don't know how much it will effect the CJ.

As for shocks, I am leaning to plain old Monroe or Gabriel for everyday driving..  remember, this Jeep will never see Moab or anything like that..  just cruising and maybe the beach.

Do you think the Monroe Gas Magnum would be too stiff?

Thanks again for your input,

Gene

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Gene...I'm good with poly if the durometer is thought out and the hardware meets the design requirements.  Too stiff will crack the tub...Poly installations usually require steel insert sleeves and self-locking fasteners.  Buy from a reputable manufacturer with plenty of Jeep CJ experience.  I am not a fan of body lifts and would keep the body bushings at or near stock height.

I like your shock absorber plans.  Gas charged is not always necessary.  There's not that much wheel travel in the CJ, the vehicle is light, and gas charged shocks are only an option if you plan much off-roading.  The Monroe Gas Magnum would be okay if there's a clear catalog application for your CJ.  Watch those shock mounts!

Moses  

 

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Moses

I was looking at Energy Suspension and Daystar as they both make a Poly Kit that covers everything..  but I may go back to the rubber.. if I can find something NOT made in china..  I am not having much success in that..  I do not like the Crown or Amix stuff so I may be stuck with the Energy Suspension master kit. I am right there with you on body lifts and there will be NO body lift on this Jeep.  I am running a radial equivalent to the original tire also..  including the side mounted spare.. 

On the shocks, the Gas Magnum may be overkill and the old Monroe-Matic could be an ideal and inexpensive to keep it near stock plus they are about $20 each..  

I'm finally getting a chance to pressure wash the underside and get all the suspension done, then get the interior done and the 2 dents popped out..  then clean up the inside and install some new seats.  I am trying to find some good CJ original seats that I could have recovered, but if not will go with the Corbeau Moab in original Spice color for front and back.

Thanks again and Merry Christmas,

Gene

Edited by TejasCJ7
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Gene, I really like what you've done with your intact CJ-7!  This is a classic and like your very impressive Scout II projects, you have preserved the strongest levels of appeal on this model.  Keep up the good work!

I like Energy Suspension, Daystar is popular and a supplier for many lift kits.  My relationship with Energy Suspension dates to the late 'eighties, they are keen about durometer and fit.  

Curious how you compare the Jeep CJ-7 to the I-H Scout II models.  Not quite the same paradigm, I'd like your take.  You put energy into each of your projects, do the CJ-7 results seem as satisfying as the Scout II efforts?  How do these models stack up against each other?

Have a great Holiday Season, find some time for fun in the mix!

Moses

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Moses

I cannot give you a definitive answer on the Scout vs Jeep as I have not progressed far enough to know.  

The Jeep is a little harder to do some things on due to size and one thing I have found that is nutz is the radiator lower hose and steering bell relationship.  If I were going to do a complete resto like I did on the Tan Scout, I would relocate the lower hose location with a custom built radiator and move it away from the steering.  If you put the hose clamp in the wrong place it hits the bell..  The ignition as with the IH Gold Box is a funky item and with todays technology can be easily improved.. I am going to do the DUI change over.

After this winter, all 2-3 months of it down here, and I have the CJ where I want it, I will do a write up on the Good, Bad & Ugly of each.  I have done 4 Scouts and 2 early Blazers, but the Tan Scout was a complete off frame nut & bolt restore.. She was so pretty she wouldn't even drive through a mud puddle without complaining.:) 

I do have another question for you as I am going to address it while doing the suspension, which by the way, I ordered the Energy Suspension Super Kit and Monroe Gas Magnum Shocks.  we will see how harsh it is, but I think it will be fine for what I am going to do with it..

The other item I need to address is the steering box.  It needs rebuilding or replacing.  what is your take on converting to power steering with the Quadratrac drive?  I am going to be the primary driver, but my niece may drive it some as well.  I can steer it OK, but I do not know if she could.  It steers pretty funky..  which may be corrected with a new box and the suspension/bushing replacement..  When you turn the wheel all the way to lock, it seems to get in a bind.  I am not sure if this is steering or the QT chain slipping..

Your comments please,

Gene

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Gene...You do have full-time 4x4 with the Quadra-Trac system, which will have a notchy steering feel if there is any kind of issue.  Try changing fluid in the transfer case if you have not already done so.  Also make sure the system comes out of lock mode, the vacuum hose circuit can leak and cause issues here.  (Look for controls in the glove box and check the vacuum circuit thoroughly.)

Mile-Marker still makes a conversion kit to part-time 4x4 for your Quadra-Trac transfer case, many have done this and added the free-wheeling front hubs that come with the kit.  Here's a link/example:

http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/Quadra-Trac-Part-Time-Conversion-Kit.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=512&t_pt=101158&t_pn=MIL95-15204&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=CjwKEAiAkb-zBRC2upezwuyguQ4SJADZG08vVBPZP4PK3uh65K5OhBMESkpwWtCtIPNsY17KEtFHCRoCqNnw_wcB

Full-time 4x4s had OEM power steering option.  If you can find a donor Jeep CJ, get all the parts that differ from your manual (Saginaw) steering.  In my view, Saginaw recirculating ball and power piston ("rotary valve") power steering is a major gain.  Make sure the gearbox ratio is correct.  I prefer an aftermarket G.M. 4-turn gear (common to big G.M. cars in the day), they are slower lock-to-lock.  The 3-turn gears make a CJ steer like a sprint car, in my opinion not desirable for a short wheelbase vehicle.  You mention your niece:  Over-correcting is less likely with a slower steering gear ratio like the 4-turn.  Your manual gear has a slow turn ratio.

Moses 

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