Any Tips for evaluating a 2000 Cherokee Sport?

[BadDriver4x4]

Since I'm shopping around, and I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport in my sights, are there any particular things I should look at other than the obviously rotted rocker panels? If the frame is good and the engine runs well are there any other points that need checking? Suspension, electrical, door hinges, brakes, etc... that are usual spots where trouble comes from? No this isn't the other 2000 Cherokee Sport, this one had a higher price tag that I think I have made good progress with. I'll give details when (if) I can show pictures of my (my daughters ??) Cherokee Sport. I just don't want to go down the path of replacing a lot of things on a vehicle that should be a little more patch and go.

I know this is  dumb question, but should I pick up a copy of your Jeep Owner's Bible to help with these and other Jeep Questions?

Edited December 5, 2015 by BadDriver4x4
addition

[Ralph77]

Have a little insight into this. Picked up a '00 cheap a couple years ago myself. Running but not really driveable. Spent the last 2 years fixing her up. There is a good chance this is a CA Emissions vehicle. Mine is. Not sorry I bought it but stuff would be easier and cheaper if it weren't. They did make federal emissions ones but if you do not live in CA and it is I would think about long and hard about buying it. Biggest thing. The head. Casting # 0331. Poor casting from the factory causing some of them to crack. Kinda under the impression that a more severe overheating of the engine might help this come about. Symptoms seem to include unexplained loss of anti-freeze, milky looking oil, and little or no oil pressure at a very hot idle. The loss of anti-freeze you can not really tell. You can take it for a good ride, get her nice and hot, and see what the pressure is at an idle. After you do that turn her off, leave the hood closed, go to restart her in about 20 minutes. This is to see if she has heat soak issues. The heat in the engine compartment vaporizes the fuel in the injectors and/or fuel rail. Making it rough starting for a couple seconds. Check the oil, look at the oil filler cap and check in the valve cover for the milky looking oil which would indicate a coolant leak. Things I have come across with mine. Windows only working from the driver's door. Window lock switch is messed up and won't let passengers roll down their own windows. Just replaced the control. Passenger speaker not working. Just a broken wire in the door. Drivers side window would not stop trying to go up with finger on the switch. Little worm gear stripped in regulator. Just replaced it. Usual valve cover gasket leak. Plus I think the leaking oil dripping down on my starter made it start acting up. Try to check for death wobble. You hit a bump at about 50mph and the Jeep starts shaking bad. Simple fix is the steering damper but sometimes just masks a more serious problem. Tough to make it happen on command too. Rear hatch not wanting to open. Most times just an adjustment. Look underneath. Some rust pretty good. Just so you know the Jeep does not have a frame. Is a Uni-Body. They still rot to. Jeeps leak. Most times on the passenger side. Sometimes from the windshield, cowl, or from a plugged up A/C discharge tube. So check the floor really good especially on that side. Probably a couple other things I could mention. Most of this is more common so googling it should give you more insight. Sorry for the verbal vomit but I just typed things as they came to me.

[Moses Ludel]

Ralph77...Thanks very much for your thoughtful and helpful response on behalf of the forum members and guests!  Your insights have surfaced with other owners of 2000-2001 XJ Cherokees.  I am responding to some of your points with red comments below...Moses

Have a little insight into this. Picked up a '00 cheap a couple years ago myself. Running but not really driveable. Spent the last 2 years fixing her up. There is a good chance this is a CA Emissions vehicle. Mine is. Not sorry I bought it but stuff would be easier and cheaper if it weren't. They did make federal emissions ones but if you do not live in CA and it is I would think about long and hard about buying it. BadDriver4x4 lives at the NE and would likely be looking at a 49-State model.  Biggest thing. The head. Casting # 0331. Poor casting from the factory causing some of them to crack. Kinda under the impression that a more severe overheating of the engine might help this come about. Symptoms seem to include unexplained loss of anti-freeze, milky looking oil, and little or no oil pressure at a very hot idle. The loss of anti-freeze you can not really tell. You can take it for a good ride, get her nice and hot, and see what the pressure is at an idle. After you do that turn her off, leave the hood closed, go to restart her in about 20 minutes. This is to see if she has heat soak issues.

One test method for cracks is to pressurize the cooling system and observe a pressure drop; another way is to do a cylinder leakdown test and watch for leakage through head gasket seepage or casting cracks.  Another method that I've used is to hold an exhaust gas analyzer probe above the radiator filler neck (cap off) with the engine idling.  (Make sure engine has cooled before removing the cap!)  Cylinder gases leaking into the coolant from a casting crack or seeping head gasket will find their way through the coolant to the radiator filler neck.  This produces measurable exhaust gases if the crack or seepage is bad enough.

The heat in the engine compartment vaporizes the fuel in the injectors and/or fuel rail. Making it rough starting for a couple seconds. Check the oil, look at the oil filler cap and check in the valve cover for the milky looking oil which would indicate a coolant leak. Good approach, too.

Things I have come across with mine. Windows only working from the driver's door. Window lock switch is messed up and won't let passengers roll down their own windows. Just replaced the control. Had the same problem, turned out to be youngest grandson messing with the window lockout switch button at the driver's switch control.  Not always the problem, just got lucky in my case.  Passenger speaker not working. Just a broken wire in the door. Drivers side window would not stop trying to go up with finger on the switch. Little worm gear stripped in regulator. Just replaced it. Common issue, regulators with nylon gears or cables with worm gears are a notoriously poor design and have encouraged a thriving aftermarket for these assemblies.  I have replaced both the driver's side and the passenger side regulator assemblies like in your case. Usual valve cover gasket leak. Wouldn't be a Jeep inline six without a valve cover leak; 1987-up are much better with the cast covers, and the later approach offers more hold down screws.  Plus I think the leaking oil dripping down on my starter made it start acting up. Avoid oil drenching the starter wires when changing the oil filter.  This is a prevalent issue on 4.0L engines.  Try to check for death wobble. You hit a bump at about 50mph and the Jeep starts shaking bad. Simple fix is the steering damper but sometimes just masks a more serious problem. Tough to make it happen on command too. Check front end caster angle.  If a lift kit with short arms, this problem is common.  My 1999 XJ's 6-inch long arm lift from Full-Traction Suspension accommodates 33" tires and has no handling or shake quirks after 60K miles in service. Rear hatch not wanting to open. Most times just an adjustment. Look underneath. Some rust pretty good. Just so you know the Jeep does not have a frame. Is a Uni-Body. They still rot to. Jeeps leak. Most times on the passenger side. Sometimes from the windshield, cowl, or from a plugged up A/C discharge tube. So check the floor really good especially on that side. Very helpful observations! Probably a couple other things I could mention. Most of this is more common so googling it should give you more insight. Sorry for the verbal vomit but I just typed things as they came to me.

 

[BadDriver4x4]

Strike two. Crack in frame on driver's side just ahead of the leaf spring mount. I still remember the springs through the floors of the Cherokees. There was also a lot more rust than the pictures lead you to believe. You have to look carefully, but I didn't get past the completely gone rockers and the crack in the frame. Floor had holes in the front outside corners as well. Never heard it run or opened the hood. Oh, and the driver's side door dropped when opened. On a 4 door that is a pretty bad sign. Rear doors opened stiffly like they had been rusted shut and just loosened up. I hope these observations and the suggestions from Ralph 77 can help other Rust Zone buyers to pick out the better Cherokees in the future.

[BadDriver4x4]

Could it be?? Warning: look for a future update. Tomorrow?? 12/18/2015 Pictures will be included.