One Piece Axle Questions

[60Bubba]

As part of the ring and pinion replacement project, I decided I'd take the opportunity to replace bearings and shaft seals.  I checked the Timken older model catalog and bought the AMC 20 specified bearings. 

 

Not surprisingly, these turned out to be the incorrect bearings for my one piece shafts.  I decided to go ahead and press them off to get at the Timken part numbers.  I was a little stumped as to how to get behind the bearing retainer without a $400 clamshell press.  I managed to use both of the separators hooked together to pull of the retainer, but I can't see any way to get a separator behind the bearing to pull it off. 

 

Am I missing something, or is the press really more for install and I should just grind this thing off?

 

Also, if anyone knows a way to identify what axles these are, that would be beneficial.  There was a shim stack between the brake backing plate and the axle tube flange.  I was under the impression that the one piece kits did away with the need for shimming for end play.  Maybe it's brand dependent?

[Moses Ludel]

60Bubba (Case)...The lock ring is designed to be at least stress relieved with a chisel.  Often, the expectation is to split the locking ring with a chisel before removal.  This is a time-honored OE lock ring removal technique.

The axle shaft may be Moser, check out the Moser design;  if this is a Moser shaft, see if there are comments on how to remove the bearing.  There is a factory bearing cone removal tool that can grab a bearing by simulating the cone in place.  This prevents the cage and rollers from jumping the lip of the inner race.  I can furnish details, though this would be a spendy tool for one-time use! 

One way to remove the bearing cone without this tool would be to use a hydraulic press, even an inexpensive bottle jack type could work here.  Consider this approach: Split the bearing cone's cage and remove the rollers.  The upper lip of the bearing race could be captured with your bearing splitter.  Using the press with the bed lowered, press on the inner end of the axle shaft.  Be certain that the bearing splitter remains tight the whole time, or it will slip over the lip of the bearing race under load.

Caution: Wear a protective face shield and eye protection, as this is very hard steel that could send out sharp shards and cause serious injury.  Do not apply heat, you could degrade the hardening of the axle shaft!

Moses

Edited October 27, 2015 by Moses Ludel

[60Bubba]

Moses,

Thanks for the info.  So it sounds like I can use the press to remove the race, but the bearing is ultimately destroyed anyway.  That's reassuring, because I hadn't figured out any other way! It was at least satisfying rigging up a way to remove the retaining ring with the press.  I guess I'll get some more use out of it when I start the differentials.

You mentioned these might be Moser shafts.  I seem to recall the shop that did the engine swap and some other work for the previous owner mentioning Moser, but I wasn't sure if that was just an offhand comment, or something they actually knew for sure.

Did you see the shims in the previous post?  I'm still not sure if those should be there.  You may have noticed a whole lot of crud on the brake backing plate; I wonder if those shims were allowing some seepage over time. It was definitely an oily/greasy mess.

I'm thinking about pressing on the new bearing and checking end play without the shims.  Worst case, I'll need to pull the axle again and reinstall some shims. Does that seem like a practical course of action?

By the way, the new forum looks pretty nice.  Are all your videos and other items moved or gone?  It always seemed like a lot to maintain for one person.  Hope the new format is easier to maintain.

Case

[Moses Ludel]

Case...Thanks for the compliments on the new forums layout.  I added a "Home Page at 4WD Mechanix Magazine" tab tonight, so members can click back and forth between the magazine and forums.  The magazine is shifting to a more dynamic Word Press platform with emphasis on HD video.  That will have a new face, too!  The video angle has taken precedence for both journalism and how-to, you'll like the new format...Should launch soon!

The axle shims are necessary for setting bearing end play or preload, whichever the axle shafts and bearings require...See if these are Moser shafts and get some data on the desired bearing adjustment and use of the shims.  If the shims seep grease or gear lube, you can install new seals and apply Gasgacinch in even coats on the shims to counter seepage.  Torque parts together while Gasgacinch is still tacky to allow complete compression of the shims...

Moses

 

[tinker0000]

If they are Moser shafts, They may have a M E cast into the flange under your puller tool. if they are they use a Timken SET9 bearing. Unfortunately, (although I'm not sure if it makes a difference) the new SET9 bearings come with a wider press lock ring I remember reading something in the instructions when i did my swap (12 years) there was a reason Moser machined them narrower I just can't remember what that reason was. Anyhow Moser Engineering has new sets available on their homepage. oops I just noticed this page was a year old. DUH

[Moses Ludel]

tinker0000...Welcome to the forums!  We're glad you replied with Moser information that could be valuable to others.  Thanks for taking the time.  

Looking forward to your participation at the forums!

Moses