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Dodge Ram Cummins 5.9L 24-Valve Diesel Powertrain Upgrades—Including a Hamilton Performance Camshaft Swap


Megatron

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 Well today marks the 500 mile mark of my recently cam swapped 2006 Ram 3500 MegaCab. So I decided to share some of the things about why I did it and what I have experienced so far.

 

 First things first. I am not a certified Cummins or Ram mechanic, or any other certified mechanic for that matter. I do have an appreciation for all things mechanical and attention for detail. Ever since I was old enough to tear things apart and put them back together, I did so. Some with success and some without (ask my dad, he will tell you all the stuff I messed up ha-ha). I probably should have gone on to school to become a mechanic, but my choice to join the military lead me down a different path. Either way this is just an FYI that I might not do everything per the book (even though I buy the book and follow them as much as any mechanic does). I do have respect for the mechanics in the industry and I support them when I can. I can only imagine it's a hard business to make money in. Lord knows if I was getting paid per the fix on my personal jobs and not by the hour, I would be so far in debt that I couldn't get a cheeseburger on credit at McDonalds. That being said unless you have a good mechanical understanding, proper tools and a shop, this modification might not be a good one for the first time DIY type.

 

  Now I may be newer to diesels, but I am not in the dark about cam swaps. I have done them in old school SBC's and newer LS platforms. This does not qualify me as an expert nor an engine builder, it just gave me the knowledge and understanding of the effects the camshaft has on the internal combustion engine. This experience also helped me to understand the process and things required to do such a job even though it is on a diesel. By no means is this a how to, just some points of interest and some insight for someone thinking about doing this themselves or having it done.

 

  In the diesel world, the 5.9L Cummins is (in my opinion) the Small Block Chevy of the diesels. It is an inline 6 cylinder engine that has a very simple design with fairly robust parts. Many of these parts are interchangeable over the year models which is why I compare the two engines. While I do not know with 100% accuracy which parts can go which direction, there are many places on the internet that do.

 

    The aftermarket world, like that of the gas engines, fully supports this platform (5.9) and it shows with many available parts for replacement, performance and better MPG. I don't know of many Diesel Performance groups that don't make at least one part for the Cummins 5.9, or at least sell ones that someone else makes. My choice to own a Cummins over the Powerstroke or Duramax was partially accredited to this. I like to take things a bit further than what the factory has done and with the 5.9 your wallet is the limit. This holds true for cam selections. There are a few known cam makers and probably others I have yet to hear of. Selections are plentiful depending on your build plan.

 

   Okay back on track.. Why the cam swap you ask?? Well let me start with my understanding of the factory cam and its roll in the 5.9. Feel free to correct me if any of this is wrong. I like to learn and I know I don't know it all.

 

  First things first, Ram. My understanding is that Ram produces a lot of trucks per year but nowhere near that of Ford and Chevrolet. Why does this matter? Glad you asked. With lower production numbers the EPA (and whatever powers that be govern emission outputs) gives lenience to Ram on installing emission controlling parts on their trucks. This is evident with EGR and cooling systems on later year trucks than Chevy and Ford. Same for the urea systems that have been in place longer with Ford and Chevy. Ram is always a year or so behind before they must become compliant with the EPA. Yea for me. This is another reason my research lead me to purchasing the 06 Ram with the Cummins. The following year, 07, they had to fall in line with EGR systems thus leading to the release of the 07.5 trucks with the 6.7 and a full EGR system. So by owning the 06 I will never be in trouble for removing these items from my truck when the man finally drops the hammer in the future, mainly because they were never installed. That being said it may come to we all have to have them, but that's another topic for another day in the far, far, far future, I hope lol.

 

  Now, my research would also lead me to discover that just because my truck doesn't have a traditional EGR system, doesn't mean the 5.9 doesn't have one.. Mind blown right?? So what is it and where is it at?? Well if my understanding is correct, and the information I have obtained, the cam is the EGR.. Confused? I was, at first. Turns out the profile of the cam allows for the intake valve to open slightly early at the end of the exhaust stroke allowing some of the exhaust to be pushed back into the intake. Thus allowing for a percentage of the exhaust gasses to be recirculated (AKA EGR haa..) Well after further research this turns out to be something done by other engine manufacturers such as that of my beloved LS1 (only in certain years if I am to understand that correctly).

 

  Now does that really cost you any power?? Maybe. MPG?? Maybe. Unfortunately I never did find a posted test on the internet of a cam swap that only had the EGR profile removed from the lobe design to compare with or without. At the trouble of a cam swap most people made a change for more lift and duration so comparison was out the window, such as myself. The EGR delete from the cam was not my focus but it is something that happens with the majority of the aftermarket cams on the market. While I don't have hard evidence to prove what the effects of the EGR profile on the cam do to the engine, I can still only assume there are performance and MPG gains without it. I don't think I have ever heard of anybody adding an EGR to pick up MPG or power, but I have heard and seen plenty to be gained without it. Think about it. Now that all the diesels trucks have EGR compliant parts, they all had to jump up in cubic inches/liters to make the same power as the previous year models.

 

 Onto the cam itself. In the world of Cummins camshaft you have a few options for performance. You also have a few choices for material and design. Lift and duration is your real first choice but that's not for me to decide for you. It strictly depends on your vehicle requirements and use. Talk to your choice of cam manufacturer for their advice, not some guy in a forum with a cool looking truck or claims of 1.5 million horsepower..

 

   First options you will see for the street lineup are new cam or a regrind on your cam. Regrind what?? Ya I was thrown off at first when I saw that you could send your cam in for a regrind to pick up performance, but after some knowledge from one of the machine shops that do this it made sense. With a regrind they shave some of the base circle off of the cam thus changing its geometry and the centerline, plus they shave the intake ramp off to remove the EGR profile. You then make up the difference by adjusting your valve lash to this new zero at the bottom of the cam. Essentially adding a bit more lift by way of the adjustment on your rockers and push rods. Now I know there is a more mechanical and better explanation of this but I get it. My explanation may not make sense, sorry lol

 

  Well to me there were 3 issues I had with this. First was a different ramp speed, Second was removing the hardened surface from the cam. Third was I couldn't get the lift I was after so this was not an option for me. Also I feared this may change the rocker to bridge geometry causing excessive wear. These are my own fears. I know company's do this with success and I take nothing from them. Just wasn't the choice for me.  

 

 Your next option was cast or billet. Well I like billet so that was my option.. Well until Zack Hamilton at Hamilton cams set me straight haha. Turns out the factory cam in the Cummins is cast, a very good cast piece, but not billet. What's the big deal?? Same thing I asked. Billet is better right?? Sure is, matter of fact it's better than the block your engine is made of. Well if you don't know anything about the Cummins cam and engine, you're about to. The Cummins engine (my 06 5.9 anyways) only has one cam bearing. It is in the front of the engine where the loads are probably greater from cam gear deflection. The rest of the cam journals are ground to match the diameter of the cam and the required oil tolerance, no bearings. Thus if you run the better grade steel of the billet cam it will literally wear your block out. They do offer roller bearings and more traditional cam bushings, but these either require machining of the block or a cam that matches the new diameter. Either way if you go billet steel you will need to do one of the bearing upgrades for your block to have a long life. So billet was out and cast was in ha-ha. I'm on a budget and I'm not pulling the engine..

 

  Now there is nothing wrong with cast. Guys have been making thousands of horsepower at higher RPM for years with them. I was assured it was good for my use and then some.

 

  Other options you will find are bolt on cam retainers. Well I didn't need one but that's because my cam gear is a straight cut gear not the helical cut one. The helical cut gear can walk out and literally try to walk the cam gear off of the cam. I'm not 100% on which Cummins motors came with helical cut gears but my 06 5.9 CR didn't...Saved me 50$ lol. if your cam gear is cut at an angle you will probably need this little thing.

 

  So the cam I chose was a Hamilton 188/220. It was the largest selection for a stock motor that did not have valve reliefs cut in the piston. It has more lift at max lift and more duration. In a nut shell that means the valves open more and for longer periods of time. Thus allowing more air into the combustion chamber so we can add more fuel. The key to power is air and fuel. More of it makes more power. This longer lift and duration on the cam also allow me to turn more RPM than the factory camshaft, however, that is a whole other animal that requires matching modifications, another topic if you will. This cam is designed to work with 62mm or larger turbo's. It requires no machining of your engine, assuming you have the right piston to valve clearance at top dead center. This is a measurement that can be confirmed with the head still on the motor. It is imperative that you confirm this before installing the cam, otherwise you just trashed your motor. Mine was well within range so on with the install. FYI, cam selection is solely based off of your personal build and application. Mine was hot street and performance. This cam would not work well for everyone's application, but I wasn't shopping for everyone...

 

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  Lifters.. New or used?? This is an option you must decide on your own. Many places will tell you that your factory one (with lower mileage) are fine to use on the new cam.. Sorry but that's advice I passed on. Now after removing the old ones I must admit they looked new. Except for the extreme shine on the wear face, there wasn't much else to look at. Maybe you can have them re faced?? I don't know. For the price of new ones I just went with new to match a new cam. This way they could wear in together. If you didn't, I assume they would last but I don't know how long.

 

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 Part 2 of lifters. Replacing them. This is why everyone says to leave them in haha. This, single handedly, has to be the most complicated thing I have ever done on any vehicle to date. I did this with the engine in the truck and the oil pan on. There is no tool on the market for it (that I could find). You will use everything from PVC pipe, dowel rods, string, pocket mirrors and magnets. This will show your true ingenuity and skill. I could go on for hours about this but it deserves its own shade tree mechanic write up. It can be done, with time and patience. A couple of them took me hours to swap out. Now, with the knowledge gained, I could get it done pretty quick. Don't drop one because that means the oil pan is coming off and that's not going to happen with the engine sitting in its mounts, at least not in the 06.. Dropping one is an easy task in case you're wondering lol. Apparently, per design, the lifters are installed at the factory with the engine upside down and the cam goes in at the same time. The cam holds the lifters up like any other car but the lifters cant come out the top. They must go back down. This means you have to hold them all up (dowel pins lol) while you remove the cam, then insert a piece of conduit cut in half to catch them as you remove the dowel rods. Way harder than it sounds. FYI, taking them out is the easy part.. Putting the new ones in?? Don't do it around your preacher because I'm sure you will earn detention at church for about 6 months, plus some community service..

 

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 Cam gear. Using the factory one is acceptable, assuming its within spec, but be prepared to remove it and replace it with the cam sticking out of the block. It will not clear the lower radiator support while still on the cam. It can be done with a gear puller and a gear installer. Much like a power steering pump gear. it is press on with an alignment key and key way. Heat is your friend for this, but be aware of temps. Use a temp probe and don't over heat gear. 250 degrees was plenty enough to loosen it from its grip for removal and install. I have seen a few shattered gears from rushing this process. Take your time.

 

 Pushrods. More lift is more stress on the valve train. Get a matched set for your application. I went with the hardened chrome moly 3/8". They make bigger but it wasn't needed. Don't want to run your engine with a bent pushrod..

 

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Valve springs and locks, ya they need to match the added performance of everything else. 103# springs were recommended from Hamilton. The old go to was 110# springs but turns out they can put unwanted stress and wear on the cam and lifters. I intended to add a bigger turbo so the additional seat pressure was a must with the new cam. Plus they need to match your cam's lift profiles so you don't get spring bind or float a valve at higher RPM's. Locks are just added insurance.

 

 Valve spring replacement. It can be done with the head on. There is a cool tool from Torx that makes this a breeze. Bar your engine over until the piston is at TDC. Put this tool on and compress all 4 springs at once. They will sit on top of the piston allowing you to compress the springs and release the locks. Remove the locks, remove the tool, remove the springs. Now is a good time for new valve seals if the budget allows. Why not, you are right there.. Only word of caution I have is the valve locks. They are tiny and there are plenty of holes on top of your head to swallow them right up and spit them out in the oil pan. Take your time and handle with care..

 

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Rocker arms are good enough from the factory. Plus I don't know anyone besides Harland Sharp that make aftermarket Cummins rockers. Those aren't cheap lol. Disassemble, inspect for wear. Re-assemble with some assembly lubricant. Track where they came from and return them to that spot.

 

 As far as the valve train goes, that's a new cam, new lifters, new pushrods, new valve springs, locks and valve seals. Keep your old cam gear, your old valves and rocker arms.

 

 Trust me this is an involved project. There are many things not listed that need to be done to get to this point and to go from this point to the end. Such as checking your installed centerline height. But like I said I didn't start this thread as a how to, more of reference and topic for anyone wanting to do it. Your skills and confidence as a DIY guy will be tested..

 

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Hamilton Cams required a 15 minute long strict cam break-in procedure WITH proper oil additives. Checkout the other topic in the forum about cam break ins for the Cummins. After that you are free to do what you want. However with so many other things new to my truck I will not be on the dyno for another 2500 miles or so.

 

 Now performance gains, the reason most of you read this much or skipped to the end. While I am still going through my own personal break in procedure for the truck (because I did cam, turbo and transmission less than 500 miles ago), I cant report fully on overall performance gains. Also, I did more than just a cam so my results are irrelevant on the topic. I can report, for now, the truck idles quieter. Perhaps the EGR delete from the cam?? Hard to say. This cam with a 64.5mm turbo upgrade and some 100hp nozzles has made this truck run like a dream. It has less than factory turbo lag off the line even with the bigger turbo. MPG is on the way up, EGT is in check with the stock configuration. My rear tires will not last long with this set up lol. It has no problem with getting with the program at any speed. Matter of fact I rolled on it from about 25mph going up the on ramp and it flat smoked the rear tires ha-ha.. I have 37's so the kid in me was giggling but the adult in me said you just spent 10 dollars in fuel, knock it off..

 

   For those wanting to know what tuner, I run EFI Live. I have my own custom tunes. However, with this modification your truck will run just fine with box type tunes (Smarty, H&S etc.). It will finally use up all that extra fuel you have been turning into black smoke. Sinners.. Once my break in is complete I will get it to the dyno, build a new tune and get the numbers you all want to see.

 

 All in all it was a challenge but the rewards out weigh them. The power curve is huge on the truck with no loss in MPG, just a loss on my son's college savings.. I would recommend this for people wanting to get more power out of their truck. Feel free to ask questions but don't ask me what cam is right for you. I have no idea. Contact Zack at Hamilton cams. Great guy, friendly and an all in one shop for a complete setup.

 

  If any of my information is incorrect please feel free to correct me. Like I said, this is the information my research found.  

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Incredible account and very helpful to forum members and our many guest visitors...Thanks, Megatron!  I have a few comments to toss into the mix...See them embedded in italics below...Moses

 

 Well today marks the 500 mile mark of my recently cam swapped 2006 Ram 3500 MegaCab. So I decided to share some of the things about why I did it and what I have experienced so far.

 

 First things first. I am not a certified Cummins or Ram mechanic, or any other certified mechanic for that matter. I do have an appreciation for all things mechanical and attention for detail. Ever since I was old enough to tear things apart and put them back together, I did so. Some with success and some without (ask my dad, he will tell you all the stuff I messed up ha-ha). I probably should have gone on to school to become a mechanic, but my choice to join the military lead me down a different path. Either way this is just an FYI that I might not do everything per the book (even though I buy the book and follow them as much as any mechanic does). I do have respect for the mechanics in the industry and I support them when I can. I can only imagine it's a hard business to make money in. Lord knows if I was getting paid per the fix on my personal jobs and not by the hour, I would be so far in debt that I couldn't get a cheeseburger on credit at McDonalds. That being said unless you have a good mechanical understanding, proper tools and a shop, this modification might not be a good one for the first time DIY type.

 

  Now I may be newer to diesels, but I am not in the dark about cam swaps. I have done them in old school SBC's and newer LS platforms. This does not qualify me as an expert nor an engine builder, it just gave me the knowledge and understanding of the effects the camshaft has on the internal combustion engine. This experience also helped me to understand the process and things required to do such a job even though it is on a diesel. By no means is this a how to, just some points of interest and some insight for someone thinking about doing this themselves or having it done.

 

  In the diesel world, the 5.9L Cummins is (in my opinion) the Small Block Chevy of the diesels. It is an inline 6 cylinder engine that has a very simple design with fairly robust parts. Many of these parts are interchangeable over the year models which is why I compare the two engines. While I do not know with 100% accuracy which parts can go which direction, there are many places on the internet that do.

 

Fully agree...Often condemned for its "ancient" design, the Cummins ISB is incredibly rugged.  Over-built, however, Gale Banks shared in a conversation we had, "We blow the heads off these engines!"  Gale is a Duramax guy and also likes the VM Motori line-up.  With due respect, if built within norms and driven like a commercial diesel engine, the ISB engines will outlive any light truck diesel on the market—while delivering better fuel mileage.

 

    The aftermarket world, like that of the gas engines, fully supports this platform (5.9) and it shows with many available parts for replacement, performance and better MPG. I don't know of many Diesel Performance groups that don't make at least one part for the Cummins 5.9, or at least sell ones that someone else makes. My choice to own a Cummins over the Powerstroke or Duramax was partially accredited to this. I like to take things a bit further than what the factory has done and with the 5.9 your wallet is the limit. This holds true for cam selections. There are a few known cam makers and probably others I have yet to hear of. Selections are plentiful depending on your build plan.

 

   Okay back on track.. Why the cam swap you ask?? Well let me start with my understanding of the factory cam and its roll in the 5.9. Feel free to correct me if any of this is wrong. I like to learn and I know I don't know it all.

 

  First things first, Ram. My understanding is that Ram produces a lot of trucks per year but nowhere near that of Ford and Chevrolet. Why does this matter? Glad you asked. With lower production numbers the EPA (and whatever powers that be govern emission outputs) gives lenience to Ram on installing emission controlling parts on their trucks. This is evident with EGR and cooling systems on later year trucks than Chevy and Ford. Same for the urea systems that have been in place longer with Ford and Chevy. Ram is always a year or so behind before they must become compliant with the EPA. Yea for me. This is another reason my research lead me to purchasing the 06 Ram with the Cummins. The following year, 07, they had to fall in line with EGR systems thus leading to the release of the 07.5 trucks with the 6.7 and a full EGR system. So by owning the 06 I will never be in trouble for removing these items from my truck when the man finally drops the hammer in the future, mainly because they were never installed. That being said it may come to we all have to have them, but that's another topic for another day in the far, far, far future, I hope lol.

 

One major benefit of EGR is reduction of NOx emissions.  In gasoline engines, this is accomplished by diluting the incoming air/fuel flow with exhaust or spent fuel.  Upper cylinder temperatures drop down (from as high as 4,800 degrees F to below 2,500 degrees F) to lower NOx.  That being the gain from EGR, I was very curious whether your EGT increased without the OEM camshaft.  You share that it did not...Keep us posted on EGT, please!

 

  Now, my research would also lead me to discover that just because my truck doesn't have a traditional EGR system, doesn't mean the 5.9 doesn't have one.. Mind blown right?? So what is it and where is it at?? Well if my understanding is correct, and the information I have obtained, the cam is the EGR.. Confused? I was, at first. Turns out the profile of the cam allows for the intake valve to open slightly early at the end of the exhaust stroke allowing some of the exhaust to be pushed back into the intake. Thus allowing for a percentage of the exhaust gasses to be recirculated (AKA EGR haa..) Well after further research this turns out to be something done by other engine manufacturers such as that of my beloved LS1 (only in certain years if I am to understand that correctly).

 

  Now does that really cost you any power?? Maybe. MPG?? Maybe. Unfortunately I never did find a posted test on the internet of a cam swap that only had the EGR profile removed from the lobe design to compare with or without. At the trouble of a cam swap most people made a change for more lift and duration so comparison was out the window, such as myself. The EGR delete from the cam was not my focus but it is something that happens with the majority of the aftermarket cams on the market. While I don't have hard evidence to prove what the effects of the EGR profile on the cam do to the engine, I can still only assume there are performance and MPG gains without it. I don't think I have ever heard of anybody adding an EGR to pick up MPG or power, but I have heard and seen plenty to be gained without it. Think about it. Now that all the diesels trucks have EGR compliant parts, they all had to jump up in cubic inches/liters to make the same power as the previous year models.

 

 Onto the cam itself. In the world of Cummins camshaft you have a few options for performance. You also have a few choices for material and design. Lift and duration is your real first choice but that's not for me to decide for you. It strictly depends on your vehicle requirements and use. Talk to your choice of cam manufacturer for their advice, not some guy in a forum with a cool looking truck or claims of 1.5 million horsepower.

 

What is the biggest shortfall of the stock camshaft?  Did Hamilton explain the importance of ditching the stock camshaft?  Who needs the stock cam?  Who doesn't?

 

   First options you will see for the street lineup are new cam or a regrind on your cam. Regrind what?? Ya I was thrown off at first when I saw that you could send your cam in for a regrind to pick up performance, but after some knowledge from one of the machine shops that do this it made sense. With a regrind they shave some of the base circle off of the cam thus changing its geometry and the centerline, plus they shave the intake ramp off to remove the EGR profile. You then make up the difference by adjusting your valve lash to this new zero at the bottom of the cam. Essentially adding a bit more lift by way of the adjustment on your rockers and push rods. Now I know there is a more mechanical and better explanation of this but I get it. My explanation may not make sense, sorry lol

 

  Well to me there were 3 issues I had with this. First was a different ramp speed, Second was removing the hardened surface from the cam. Third was I couldn't get the lift I was after so this was not an option for me. Also I feared this may change the rocker to bridge geometry causing excessive wear. These are my own fears. I know company's do this with success and I take nothing from them. Just wasn't the choice for me.  

 

Camshaft regrinding is as old as performance camshafts.  Most early camshaft improvements were based upon original camshafts reground from performance "master" profiles.  Your point about rocker bridge geometry is important. Also, the camshaft hardness or original heat treatment is critical and needs consideration with any regrind.  If a new cast camshaft is available, I would do like you did and get it instead!

 

 Your next option was cast or billet. Well I like billet so that was my option.. Well until Zack Hamilton at Hamilton cams set me straight haha. Turns out the factory cam in the Cummins is cast, a very good cast piece, but not billet. What's the big deal?? Same thing I asked. Billet is better right?? Sure is, matter of fact it's better than the block your engine is made of. Well if you don't know anything about the Cummins cam and engine, you're about to. The Cummins engine (my 06 5.9 anyways) only has one cam bearing. It is in the front of the engine where the loads are probably greater from cam gear deflection. The rest of the cam journals are ground to match the diameter of the cam and the required oil tolerance, no bearings. Thus if you run the better grade steel of the billet cam it will literally wear your block out. They do offer roller bearings and more traditional cam bushings, but these either require machining of the block or a cam that matches the new diameter. Either way if you go billet steel you will need to do one of the bearing upgrades for your block to have a long life. So billet was out and cast was in ha-ha. I'm on a budget and I'm not pulling the engine..

 

Cast is good, indeed!  Wearing out a Cummins block prematurely would be a colossal waste of a great block!

 

  Now there is nothing wrong with cast. Guys have been making thousands of horsepower at higher RPM for years with them. I was assured it was good for my use and then some.

 

  Other options you will find are bolt on cam retainers. Well I didn't need one but that's because my cam gear is a straight cut gear not the helical cut one. The helical cut gear can walk out and literally try to walk the cam gear off of the cam. I'm not 100% on which Cummins motors came with helical cut gears but my 06 5.9 CR didn't...Saved me 50$ lol. if your cam gear is cut at an angle you will probably need this little thing.

 

Great point about the helically cut gears and recommended use of a camshaft retainer.  This is not unusual in gasoline engines, even with sprockets and a chain.  Buick V-6 and many other engines use a spring loaded "button" at the front of the camshaft to help hold the camshaft in proper alignment.  Your comments about helically cut gears seems even more important!

 

  So the cam I chose was a Hamilton 188/220. It was the largest selection for a stock motor that did not have valve reliefs cut in the piston. It has more lift at max lift and more duration. In a nut shell that means the valves open more and for longer periods of time. Thus allowing more air into the combustion chamber so we can add more fuel. The key to power is air and fuel. More of it makes more power. This longer lift and duration on the cam also allow me to turn more RPM than the factory camshaft, however, that is a whole other animal that requires matching modifications, another topic if you will. This cam is designed to work with 62mm or larger turbo's. It requires no machining of your engine, assuming you have the right piston to valve clearance at top dead center. This is a measurement that can be confirmed with the head still on the motor. It is imperative that you confirm this before installing the cam, otherwise you just trashed your motor. Mine was well within range so on with the install. FYI, cam selection is solely based off of your personal build and application. Mine was hot street and performance. This cam would not work well for everyone's application, but I wasn't shopping for everyone...

 

Please share what Hamilton recommends as the best use for this camshaft grind...Many will be curious why you selected the grind—beyond just the valvetrain friendliness.

 

  Lifters.. New or used?? This is an option you must decide on your own. Many places will tell you that your factory one (with lower mileage) are fine to use on the new cam.. Sorry but that's advice I passed on. Now after removing the old ones I must admit they looked new. Except for the extreme shine on the wear face, there wasn't much else to look at. Maybe you can have them re faced?? I don't know. For the price of new ones I just went with new to match a new cam. This way they could wear in together. If you didn't, I assume they would last but I don't know how long.

 

I always change flat tappet lifters with a camshaft change.  The lifter base of a flat tappet camshaft will wear to match the cam lobe.  (Never mix the lifter order when reusing a camshaft and its old lifters!  Lay the lifters out in order of disassembly.)  I've shared that the PSI load at the lifter base, which is actually convex, is the highest measurable load in an engine—over 200,000 PSI at the convex contact point with the camshaft lobe when the valve is at full lift!

 

 Part 2 of lifters. Replacing them. This is why everyone says to leave them in haha. This, single handedly, has to be the most complicated thing I have ever done on any vehicle to date. I did this with the engine in the truck and the oil pan on. There is no tool on the market for it (that I could find). You will use everything from PVC pipe, dowel rods, string, pocket mirrors and magnets. This will show your true ingenuity and skill. I could go on for hours about this but it deserves its own shade tree mechanic write up. It can be done, with time and patience. A couple of them took me hours to swap out. Now, with the knowledge gained, I could get it done pretty quick. Don't drop one because that means the oil pan is coming off and that's not going to happen with the engine sitting in its mounts, at least not in the 06.. Dropping one is an easy task in case you're wondering lol. Apparently, per design, the lifters are installed at the factory with the engine upside down and the cam goes in at the same time. The cam holds the lifters up like any other car but the lifters cant come out the top. They must go back down. This means you have to hold them all up (dowel pins lol) while you remove the cam, then insert a piece of conduit cut in half to catch them as you remove the dowel rods. Way harder than it sounds. FYI, taking them out is the easy part.. Putting the new ones in?? Don't do it around your preacher because I'm sure you will earn detention at church for about 6 months, plus some community service..

 

In the chassis, the lifter change must be done by the "book".  This is not for the faint of heart.  Stuff clean lint-free rags into every exposed orifice when removing valve locks or dowels.  Keep an extension magnet handy!

 

 Cam gear. Using the factory one is acceptable, assuming its within spec, but be prepared to remove it and replace it with the cam sticking out of the block. It will not clear the lower radiator support while still on the cam. It can be done with a gear puller and a gear installer. Much like a power steering pump gear. it is press on with an alignment key and key way. Heat is your friend for this, but be aware of temps. Use a temp probe and don't over heat gear. 250 degrees was plenty enough to loosen it from its grip for removal and install. I have seen a few shattered gears from rushing this process. Take your time.

 

I like your use of a temp probe.  My infrared surface temp gun is a popular tool at my shop!  What did you use for heating the gear?  Years ago, I built the classic GMC truck engines, and the 248/270/302 "Jimmy" originally had a press-on fiber (later aluminum) camshaft gear.  A popular upgrade replacement was the aluminum camshaft gear.  (The crank gear was steel.)  The shop manuals called for heating the gear in oil before installation.  A metal camshaft gear is even more stubborn than a fiber gear.

 

 Pushrods. More lift is more stress on the valve train. Get a matched set for your application. I went with the hardened chrome moly 3/8". They make bigger but it wasn't needed. Don't want to run your engine with a bent pushrod..

 

Valve springs and locks, ya they need to match the added performance of everything else. 103# springs were recommended from Hamilton. The old go to was 110# springs but turns out they can put unwanted stress and wear on the cam and lifters. I intended to add a bigger turbo so the additional seat pressure was a must with the new cam. Plus they need to match your cam's lift profiles so you don't get spring bind or float a valve at higher RPM's. Locks are just added insurance.

 

I like your prudence with the springs—for exactly the reasons you cite.  This was a wise choice!

 

 Valve spring replacement. It can be done with the head on. There is a cool tool from Torx that makes this a breeze. Bar your engine over until the piston is at TDC. Put this tool on and compress all 4 springs at once. They will sit on top of the piston allowing you to compress the springs and release the locks. Remove the locks, remove the tool, remove the springs. Now is a good time for new valve seals if the budget allows. Why not, you are right there.. Only word of caution I have is the valve locks. They are tiny and there are plenty of holes on top of your head to swallow them right up and spit them out in the oil pan. Take your time and handle with care.

 

Do you have a link to this Torx tool?  The tool sounds intriguing!

 

Rocker arms are good enough from the factory. Plus I don't know anyone besides Harland Sharp that make aftermarket Cummins rockers. Those aren't cheap lol. Disassemble, inspect for wear. Re-assemble with some assembly lubricant. Track where they came from and return them to that spot.

 

Your engine is in good shape.  Some would benefit from machine shop resurfacing of the rocker arms at the valve stem contact points.  Your valves were reused, so there is a normal wear pattern between the rocker arms and their original, matching valve stems.

 

 As far as the valve train goes, that's a new cam, new lifters, new pushrods, new valve springs, locks and valve seals. Keep your old cam gear, your old valves and rocker arms.

 

Very thorough, a wise investment for a camshaft profile change plus performance upgrades!

 

 Trust me this is an involved project. There are many things not listed that need to be done to get to this point and to go from this point to the end. Such as checking your installed centerline height. But like I said I didn't start this thread as a how to, more of reference and topic for anyone wanting to do it. Your skills and confidence as a DIY guy will be tested..

 

Thanks for being so matter-of-fact, Megatron!  This kind of project could easily turn into a nightmare—or at least tie up someone's work truck or transportation for some time.  The SBC is a cakewalk next to the task you tackled—and in the chassis!

 

Hamilton Cams required a 15 minute long strict cam break-in procedure WITH proper oil additives. Checkout the other topic in the forum about cam break ins for the Cummins. After that you are free to do what you want. However with so many other things new to my truck I will not be on the dyno for another 2500 miles or so.

 

Excited about the pending dyne testing!  Waiting to see the results from all of these mods...Fuel mileage, peak torque and horsepower gains at what rpm—should be interesting!

 

 Now performance gains, the reason most of you read this much or skipped to the end. While I am still going through my own personal break in procedure for the truck (because I did cam, turbo and transmission less than 500 miles ago), I cant report fully on overall performance gains. Also, I did more than just a cam so my results are irrelevant on the topic. I can report, for now, the truck idles quieter. Perhaps the EGR delete from the cam?? Hard to say. This cam with a 64.5mm turbo upgrade and some 100hp nozzles has made this truck run like a dream. It has less than factory turbo lag off the line even with the bigger turbo. MPG is on the way up, EGT is in check with the stock configuration. My rear tires will not last long with this set up lol. It has no problem with getting with the program at any speed. Matter of fact I rolled on it from about 25mph going up the on ramp and it flat smoked the rear tires ha-ha.. I have 37's so the kid in me was giggling but the adult in me said you just spent 10 dollars in fuel, knock it off..

 

Well, the fuel bill equals the right foot pressure at a given time!  Sounds like a diesel...or a gasoline engine for that matter.

 

   For those wanting to know what tuner, I run EFI Live. I have my own custom tunes. However, with this modification your truck will run just fine with box type tunes (Smarty, H&S etc.). It will finally use up all that extra fuel you have been turning into black smoke. Sinners.. Once my break in is complete I will get it to the dyno, build a new tune and get the numbers you all want to see.

 

Would like to hear more about your building the tune yourself.  When you do the dyne and start programming, please share details.  Sounds exciting!

 

 All in all it was a challenge but the rewards out weigh them. The power curve is huge on the truck with no loss in MPG, just a loss on my son's college savings.. I would recommend this for people wanting to get more power out of their truck. Feel free to ask questions but don't ask me what cam is right for you. I have no idea. Contact Zack at Hamilton cams. Great guy, friendly and an all in one shop for a complete setup.

 

So far, you're pleased all around.  The turbo upgrade, in itself, would be something.  You likely need this camshaft to realize the turbo's potential, though...

 

  If any of my information is incorrect please feel free to correct me. Like I said, this is the information my research found.  

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Thanks for the input Moses...

 

  As for the cam selection, I spoke with Zack at Hamilton Cams and we discussed what I did with my truck. I don't really tow with it even though I may pull a toy hauler once in a while for summer fun or vacation, I didn't drag race or sled pull. I wasn't trying to build a big HP dynamometer truck like you see in every magazine. I was trying to build reliable power that left me open to operate it like it was still factory (drive ability, MPG's and durability). I also didn't want to take the engine down far enough to remove pistons and make modifications. That was way out of budget and crossed a line on performance I didn't really need for the street. My goal was truthfully street performance and daily driver. Sounds silly with a diesel truck, but the true strength from design and materials makes this engine a good host for performance. I suspect I should be able to make close to the 600hp mark with this build, do that on a gas motor in a 10k pound vehicle and see how long it will last lol. Now I don't have pipe dreams that the vehicle will be like a Ferrari, but it weighs almost 10K pounds and a little more performance would hurt anything. Nor would double the factory ratings ha-ha..

 

 Zack pointed me in the direction of this cam if I was willing to build the truck to match it. If I was then he didn't see why I couldn't all but double the factory ratings for power and stay within all the green areas of EGT's and MPG's and durability, even with a trailer now and again. Assuming I built or had a tune built that was matching.

 

    Now that being said, my cam selection was based off a whole list of modifications that I had planned for my truck. I did my part by installing these modifications to help make additional power as safe as possible. Examples: ARP 625 head studs, ARP main studs and girdle bolts. ARP rod bolts, ARP Injector studs, ARP Flex plate bolts, ARP harmonic balancer bolts, BD Billet flex plate, BD Billet triple disk torque converter, BD Fully built transmission with billet shafts and custom valve body, Fluidampner Harmonic balancer, PPE Twin CP3 fuel pumps, Industrial Injection Dual feed fuel rail kit, AirDog II 165 lift pump, DDP 100hp injector nozzles, BD Intercooler, BD Super B Special 64.5mm Turbo, S&B Intake elbow, GDP raised intake plenum, Fleece Performance fuel distribution block and all -8 AN fittings and lines to supply both CP3's with fuel and returns, BD extruded dual stacked transmission coolers, Fleece coolant bypass, 5" one piece aluminum drive shaft (the list really goes on and on and on, this doesn't include any of the valve train parts or specialty tools lol). That's close to 20k in modifications and upgraded parts without 1$ for labor. If you want to make a big power jump safely in any vehicle you have to built it to handle the power. Really you can buy a very nice vehicle for this kind of money.. I'm sure many may consider it overkill but I don't. Every piece of the puzzle holds something together and when you plan to double the power of factory, plan on something failing. (I plan to make a few other posts in the Cummins group to talk about these parts individually and the pros and cons I found with each one.)

 

 All those parts really make my truck capable of going on up to 800hp with strength. Yes I know the single small turbo isn't really capable of that, but the engine would probably handle it. Maybe we will find out someday lol.  

 

   Anybody can stick a 66mm turbo on a stock 5.9 and make more power. It will probably be slow off the line and create high EGT's and eventually break something, heck it might not every run right. NOT what I wanted to do. This is why I say talk to your cam builder and be honest about your goals.  Plan to spend what it takes. You really don't have to do a cam swap for power, but if you do you can definitely make the most out of your other hard parts.  

 

   The real way to design a build, in my opinion, is to incorporate all the pieces to work together better and more efficiently. This way you're not relying on the turbo to just make up your power difference. This cam matched my turbo choice, which matched my air delivery projection, which matched the efficiency of the new intercooler. Thus I had to deliver fuel at a rate and volume that would match the air. All things must be considered. Therefore I knew in the end it would make more power than stock so drivetrain upgrades were a must. It's a domino effect if you will. A cam swap like this is not just a single thing, at least not mine.

 

 They make cams for stock applications. They claim that they will lower EGT's and increase MPG's. Makes sense given what a cam does. At this point I would love to break down lift and lobe separation to help some people understand the effect but I'm not the expert. While I understand the fundamentals, every application is different. This is why I say take the advice of the cam guys and leave forum suggestions in the forum for this topic. Our results may vary lol.

 

  EGT's, so far I'm actually lower than my old setup (not much) and just a tune. My idle is around 300 degrees (after the vehicle has been to temp, down from 350-400). Cruising at 70mph I range around 700-900 (give or take terrain features, down from 800-950) and WOT it has yet to pass 1200 (not much different than stock, maybe 50 lower). Here is my input on EGT's: I know for a fact my power has increased dramatically even with a mild tune but I haven't suffered any different numbers because of it. Now I wish I had data logged more stock files for reference and logged a better EGT base to compare with. But my outlook is that everything is working together. I haven't hauled a trailer yet since my break in is not complete.

 

  Your question about heating the cam gear. We used two small propane hand torches. I had a helper so we could evenly distribute heat around the gear. This may not be text book but we tried using a real heat gun and we couldn't get the numbers high enough and even across the gear. Someone may make a better heat gun than the one I used. Please be careful of high temp numbers. Some people say 350 or 400 or glowing red... Don't. If 300 degrees wont break it loose I would seriously consider disassembly of the truck to get the cam and gear out and have it pressed off. I achieved success at 250. That seemed like a safe number to avoid warping the gear, Even heat distribution is a must. Everyone know heat warps metal, this cam gear is no different. When you press the cam gear back on it will require heat.  (The cam is threaded so a traditional installer will work, threads were wacky but we found one.) We put my gear in a little toaster oven to get it to 250 for the initial start of the install. It's a trick and you may get a permanent tattoo lol, but its an easy way to safely get it up to temp. It will try to cool as you install it, just add heat as it goes but do not stop until it is fully seated. It is a press fit so run it up flush and tight and make sure you install your cam retainer before you start or you get to do it all over again lol. The cam retainer cannot be added later. It sits between the gear and the cam and bolts to the block. I did a run out double check with my dial gauge after the install was complete to confirm I had not warped the gear. Everything checked out. Let everything cool before sliding the cam and gear in all the way.  Also be very careful during this process not to damage your front cam bearing. I did scratch mine during the removal process so I had to install a new cam bearing from Cummins. That lesson taught me to take my time during the install.

 

 Skipping back a bit. I am aware of the importance of the EGR system. My truck is actually equipped with a high flow single cat. Now I know that's not exactly the same thing as the EGR but I installed one to test the difference between having one and not having one (performance wise). I can't tell a difference ha-ha. Still loud as ever and runs fine. I plan to play swap it out at the dynamometer to see if it really matters having one of these on or not. Trust me, I don't support the "Coal Rolling" generation. I am after clean diesel power. That's another reason I run EFI Live. You can tune your truck to match everything you add to it. I will get a good write up on it over the next few months. I'm trying to get into one of their training classes so I can become better educated with all of its features.

 

  I need to get better at posting pictures links to the forums. I will try to get the tool links or pictures posted tomorrow.

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Thanks, again, Megatron...Terrific account of why and what to do if one is serious about building reliable truck power!  This thread is a tremendous service to others, especially your details on upgrade hardware, technical how-to steps and choosing components that must match up and be considered important.  There is so much piecemeal work being done, and as you note, engines and transmissions fail from halfway attempts at building power.

 

Pleased to know the EGT (exhaust gas temperature) is normal, it will be interesting to see how recreational trailer pulling impacts the EGT.  Presumed that your EGT probe is inboard (engine side exhaust) of the turbo and that this is true exhaust temperature and not post-turbo temp.  These numbers are respectable and helpful to the stock Cummins valves, pistons and the other lower engine components.  You're spot on that the ISB Cummins engine is a reliable platform for a build if you follow a formula for upgrading the parts.  This includes the camshaft profile, turbo boost, air flow improvements and the upgraded fuel supply and return.

 

You mention changing head studs and girdle hardware, yet I know you kept the engine in the chassis.  Did you remove the cylinder head or simply change out the studs one at a time, carefully torqueing each stud and nut as you proceeded (in an effort to avoid damaging the head gasket)?

 

I'm curious about fuel efficiency at this stage.  If you have a benchmark for fuel efficiency when the engine was stock, can you comment on the effects of all these modifications?  I'm convinced, and you clearly indicate, that without all of the modifications, this engine would now be on life support.  You've nearly doubled the horsepower output from stock, and without the BD transmission build, the rest of the powertrain would have failed rapidly.  The 48RE transmission in stock form is in no way capable of handling 600 horsepower.  It's working reasonably hard to stay together at a 325 horsepower and 610 lb-ft torque tune.  On that note, how much torque is your engine putting out now, and at what rpm is peak torque reached?  Is this a question for the dyne testing to provide soon?

 

You comment quite frankly about the 10K pound truck.  I've yet to follow up on weighing my '05 Ram Cummins 4WD Quad-Cab, but with the add-on accessories, it must be around 9,000 pounds curb weight now.  Have you actually weighed your truck at the scales?  Curious what your "daily driver", unloaded weight might be...

 

Looking forward to more of your comments and the substantial contribution, objectively a reality check, that you're providing for other Cummins ISB truck owners!

 

Moses

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  The last time I hit the scale with my truck it weighed 8500 pounds. I have since added both front and rear fabricated bumpers, winch, additional parts like transmission coolers and fuel pumps, gone up from 36" tires to 38", larger four link components and so on. I know some of the parts seem miniscule, but they add up on any road trip. So I figure for sure I have crossed into the 9000# range without a family of four along for a Sunday drive (my 16 year old son weighs 240# alone ha-ha). Fully loaded with family and a pick nick basket we should be close to the 10K, but I will hit my scales for a confirmation. Of coarse my wife wont be in the vehicle because I am never allowed to see her scale numbers.. ever..

 

  As for the EGT probe, yes mine is pre turbo. It is located on the exhaust manifold, on the rear half of the divider above the turbo flange and the probe extends into the middle of the passage not all the way across. I am picking up the heat from the rear cylinders mainly. My understanding is post turbo was a pointless place and that the rear cylinders naturally run hotter given their location in the vehicle and the inline six design.

 

   As for the Head studs, yes it was one at a time. The ARP rep said if I followed the factory sequence, changed one out at a time and brought it back factory torque, I could replace them and not cause additional damage to the head gasket. Then once all were replaced I could finish with the final torque yields they required. While I am not 100% certain of this being an accepted process by the masses, I did find plenty of the same instructions across the other stud manufacturers. There were other things taken into consideration about this process like mileage of the engine, maintenance records of fluid changes such as coolant etc., don't assume you can do it to yours without researching it.  My engine was relatively low mileage and did not have a history of heavy work loads and abuse. It is still a gamble on the condition of the head gasket, but I know I don't plan on abusing it after the fact so it's something I rolled the dice on. 100K and over seemed to be the number for not taking the chance and just getting a new head gasket. The plus side is, if it should ever fail, ARP states I can re-torque these studs to spec up to three times should I have a gasket failure in the future and need to replace it (assuming you use the provided lubrication for install and follow the directions). Another reason I went with the 625's over the 425's. I know the head gasket is likely to fail over time. They fail in vehicles everyday that are completely stock.

 

  The same directions were given for rod bolts and main stud hardware. Now, I know this is frowned on by machinists and real engine builders. I know this process is not the desired way for it to be done that's why I really have no intentions on sharing much about it. I will touch on why I believe it is questionable. Anytime you have something like a main cap or rod cap that is a specific tolerance when closed and torqued down, you stand a chance of altering that area's shape with a different torque value. If you add new rod bolts that have 5 or 10% more torque value than what you removed, you stand the chance of altering the circumference and shape of the rod opening. If this value is very much at all it can lead to rod bearing failure or main bearing failure. To be honest same for head studs. Once you increase the torque value of the stud over the factory amount you can deform the shape of the block within the cylinder walls. This is why you should always have all machine work done to your engine with the proper fasteners and torque yields applied. This way any changes in the shape of the block, mains or rods is corrected in the machining and honing process. Now I believe there will be a difference in the amount of deflection when comparing a stud to a bolt just by the way the loads are applied to the components. Either way something gives somewhere. Maybe its .0001 or .010, no way to tell if you don't measure it. Replacing any factory hardware on any tolerance specific parts is an "at your own risk" venture. I have my personal reasons and experience to validate my decision (that and the checkbook to replace what fails), but don't look to me if it fails for you. Like always, talk to your engine builder and follow his direction. If he will guarantee it for you then it's on him (but I bet he tells you no way lol). For me the new torque yields were a small percentage over the older fasteners and with XXX miles some wear had already accord. Thus if a tolerance was to get .001 tighter I didn't feel it would case harm (given I researched what the +/- of tolerance was to begin with). I did some other tolerance checks during the process and everything checked out. But it's still a risk... YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!!

 

 MPG's.. The greatest lie ever told by a diesel owner ha-ha-ha.. No really, I see everything from 6 mpg's all the way up to 38... I have my own baselines from stock, to stock lifted, to lifted and a box tuner, to lifted and EFI Live. I have had MPG tunes that are worse than power tunes and power tunes that get great mileage. Your big post on fuel efficiency is a winner. If people really read it and understood it they would see why the effects from every aspect add or subtract from MPG's. I didn't start to understand it until one of my 90hp tunes got me the best MPG and the MPG tune got the worst and didn't make power. However, for now, I haven't gotten out on the open road much and with winter in full effect warm up times are chipping away at any reliable data. I can confirm that even on the short drives it noticeably has done better. I have a big trip to Tennessee planed in a few weeks so I can compare that to my last trip this fall before the work was completed. (Spoiler Alert: For the record my worst MPG's were stock, lifted 8" with 36" tires and current full weight:  8mpg city and 12.5 highway ouch...) I'm already over 12.5 city right now. Sad thing is I started getting better fuel mileage and now the price goes down on diesel lol, oh well, not going to complain about the current low prices.

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Megatron...Since the proper re-torque of rod bolts is essentially the same clamping force as the 5.9L engine's original torque setting, you likely did not distort the big-end bores of the connecting rods.  Insert type bearings have a built-in "crush" design that makes the bearing round when the big-end bore is tightened and concentric.  Simply installing new (better quality) bolts should not distort these rod big end bores.  Over-torqueing rod or main bolts or nuts could create an issue, however, as the bearing saddles (mains) and rod big end bores can be distorted.

 

Rod cap alignment is crucial, but this is controlled by the rod design or the rod bolt/stud shank.  Most connecting rod bolts have a near interference fit, intentionally designed to keep the cap from moving or migrating under load.  Knurled or serrated bolt shanks create that "must have the cap perfectly square" during assembly feel.  Cummins builds troughs and raised surfaces in its rod cap-to-rod shank interface.  Unlike the common flat, parallel faces of most rod shanks and caps, the Cummins design helps hold these two pieces in alignment. 

 

I like your take on ever so slight changes in the rod big-end or bearing shape.  Yet there is always oil clearance on rod bearings.  The Cummins 5.9L ISB is no exception.  If you did "distort" the bearing during your work, that would likely be well within the 0.0001"-0.0005" range.  You would still be floating the rod on a film of oil.  Oil separation is what keeps these metal parts from making contact during normal operation.  Normally, the oil pump supplies ample oil; the bearing clearance allows the oil film to prevent parts contact.  This is why 95% of rod and main bearing wear over the lifespan of an engine is from initial engine startup, before these bearings have a pressurized charge of oil. 

 

Note: This is also why I have always changed my own engine oil.  I fill my vertically mounted oil filters, like the Cummins 5.9L, with fresh oil prior to installation.  I cut the initial start and oil pickup time considerably.

 

I'll share some quick anecdotes...In the course of my automotive career, I've worked at and with automotive machine shops.  This dates back to the late 'sixties.  In 1997, we purchased a used 1987 Ford F150 SWB 4x4 pickup for our son's first ride.  (At cowboy country, this was the machine.)  Nice truck with the legendary 300 CID/4.9L inline six and an NP435 truck-type four speed transmission, 8.8" rear axle.  First year for MPI, had the power steering option and an aftermarket sound system...The vehicle, though very clean and well kept, came with nebulous miles on it, and the engine had a very subtle cold morning start-up rattle (lower end) that got my attention. 

 

I planned out a father/son rebuild, we removed and tore down the engine, then sublet the machine work to a local and reputable shop.  The owner being a friend, we were on the same page about machining practices.  After hot tanking and new cam bearings, every machining need was met, including full cylinder head work, rod machining and new piston fitting, re-boring, decking and reciprocal parts balancing.  I went along with his recommendation to "polish" rather than regrind the crankshaft's journals.  (Journals were remarkably true despite obvious, visible wear on the insert bearing shells.)  The crankshaft was original with its standard size FoMoCo bearings.  I thoroughly built the engine to my usual "blueprint" aims.  The bearings furnished were high quality at standard journal size.

 

Turns out that Ford had a recognized problem with excessive oil/bearing clearance on these engines.  In particular, there were warranty and shop repairs addressing 300 sixes with cold start knock even when new or near new.  (In the 'nineties, GM had this problem with V-8 truck engines.)  The problem was a common one:  two much oil clearance on the rod-to-crankshaft journals.  Well, it just so happens that I had the 1993 Ford factory workshop manual set on one of my library shelves, a book provided graciously by friends at Ford Motor Company while I was writing and illustrating the Ford F-Series Pickup Owner's Bible (Bentley Publishers).  That book earned a Ford SVO part number.

 

In the factory shop manual is a section devoted to every detail of the 300 CI six, including a specific reference to how a crankshaft bearing knock could be remedied in the chassis—like a warranty repair.  The solution was simple:  1) Plastigage/measure the existing oil clearance on a "standard" bearing crankshaft and bearing set, 2) "roll in" undersize bearing shells to compensate for the excessive clearance. 

 

Now this would seem simple enough until one reads the fine print.  There are two common undersizes for a standard U.S. journal size crankshaft: 0.001" and 0.002".  Ford talks about trying each size with a Plastigage test.  Ford also recommends splitting up 0.001" and 0.002" size bearing sets if necessary and placing the 0.002" bearing shell half at the top side of the crankshaft (in the rod shank) and a 0.001" bearing shell half in the bottom side rod cap.  Visualize these two bearing halves crushed and "round" in the bolted together rod shank and rod cap.  Yes, one shell, the 0.002" bearing half, has a smaller inside radius than the other! 

 

So, why is this acceptable as a new truck warranty fix?  Because the rod rides on an oil film, and the overall bearing clearance, verified by Plastigage, provides the necessary space between the bearing and rod journal.  Does this work?  Yes, indeed.  After running the freshly built engine and hearing a lessened cold start rattle (thanks to the new standard size bearings versus worn standard size bearings—plus a new Melling high volume oil pump to assure lubrication), I dropped the oil pan in the chassis. 

 

Ford had built "high side" clearance into the crank-to-rod bearings, compounded by polishing the crankshaft journals.  Using Plastigage, 0.001" undersize bearings were still too much clearance, and 0.002" undersize would have been too little clearance.  I did the 0.001" and 0.002" mix per journal and brought the clearance into specification.  The ever so slight morning knock now disappeared completely.  Oil pressure picked up a token amount, too. 

 

Note: According to my seventeen-year-old son (at the time) who wanted to drive the truck after the engine rebuild, I was the only person who could hear the excess clearance rattle at start-up with the standard size rod bearings, though that's unlikely.  Over two decades earlier, I had donated a percentage of my hearing to the I-80 by-pass of Winnemucca highway job, running heavy equipment alongside the tortuous, high pitch screaming of two-stroke Jimmy diesels and raucous Caterpillar 1693 engines.

 

If anyone is curious about this two-size bearing remedy and its use as a bona fide and official repair, see pages 03-00-21 and 03-00-22 of the 1993 Ford factory F150 through F250 and F-Super Duty powertrain manual.  The factory "Desired" rod clearance is 0.0008"-0.0015".  "Allowable" is 0.0007"-0.0024".  Plastigage is the final say, and I achieved the equivalent of 0.001" oil clearance with the use of the split size bearing halves on a polished OE crankshaft.  We sold the truck six years later and have been updated since.  It's running flawlessly to this day.

 

My bearing clearance parable points to a singular conclusion:  Despite the extreme loads on your rod bearings and the Cummins diesel's propensity for making massive torque under a high compression ratio, I'm betting that your changing rod bolts and torqueing them properly has not diminished this 5.9L engine's lifespan by 27 seconds.

 

Footnote: My first tutelage at automotive machine shop work was with a postwar trained machinist, George Zirkle, who knew the intricacies of Stovebolt Chevy sixes with hot poured rod bearings. These were connecting rods that had Babbitt material melted and "poured" into their big ends—no insert bearings.  Shims between the rod cap and shank could be pulled out to remedy minor rod clearance issues if the crankshaft journals were still reasonable round.  These engines also used oil troughs across the top of the oil pan with connecting rod cap scuppers to pick up oil for the rod.  The system was affectionately known as "dip and splash" oiling, and these 1937-53 216 engines ran a maximum of 15 PSI oil pressure on the gauge...By contrast, I also had the pleasure of working with the period GMC "Jimmy" inline sixes.  The 270 GMC six featured insert rod bearings and many other durability features that helped the Allies win WWII with the deuce-and-a-half trucks.  1939-59 228/248/270/302 Jimmy sixes, GMC/Pontiac V-8s from 1955-59, and even the GMC 305 and 351 V-6s of the 1960s were days when a GMC truck meant considerably more quality and engineering than a Chevrolet, especially the engines and the upgraded chassis and axles.  Imagine what the WWII outcome would have been if instead of GMC 270 sixes, General Motors had supplied Bowtie trucks with the 216 Stovebolt and its dip-and-splash oiling?...While I know this old iron intimately, I actually came of motoring age during the Muscle Car era.  Knee deep in muscle cars, Jeep, light trucks and 4x4s, I had worked for several years as a light/medium duty truck fleet mechanic before the machine shop stint with George Zirkle in 1970-71.

 

Moses

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   Mind blown ha-ha. If anybody had ever told me they used different sized bearing halves on the same journal I would have called them crazy. Until I read this lol. I understand the film of oil is the surface in which the journals ride. I also understand the fear of dry start. I did all bolts one at a time so I wouldn't lose what oil was still under each cap. That's why I went through the trouble of priming the system before the restart. First without injectors in the holes then with them in and no wiring. Oil pressure is the same as the day I bought it.

 

  I do have a real question about the rocker and cam oiling if you can answer it?

 

   I'm used to seeing (SBC) oil passing through the lifter, up the pushrod and oiling the contact between the rocker and push rod then passing through to the valve tip side. The Cummins pushrods are solid so no oil coming that way. I know that the rocker is getting oil through its base to oil its fulcrum point, but what  is oiling either end of the rocker at the pushrod and valve tip bridge? Was there a passage I didn't see in the rocker? Is this just an oil splash zone?

 

I ran the engine with the top valve cover off and I watched the rockers completely fill with oil and get flung around (Couldn't do that for long without making a big mess lol) But I didn't really notice a steady stream flowing out of the rocker tips.

 

The cam. I believe the mains on the cam are oil feed (at least I'm 100% sure on the first one lol). My grey area is the lifter areas. Are they fed by an oil galley or just run down from the top of the engine? Does this just flow around the lifter onto the cam lobes?

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Well, Megatron, here's the available scoop on the lubrication system for a 5.9L Cummins ISB diesel...There are passageways through the rocker arms to oil the valve stem tip/rocker face and also a rocker arm passage to the cup atop the pushrod.  This is not a trivial supply of oil, either, as you discovered.  The oil comes up through the block at each pair of rocker arms, passes first through the pedestal support then the rocker fulcrum and into the rocker passageways.  Each cylinder's pair of rockers receive oil from a distinct passage that comes up through the block, originating at a high pressure oil gallery and the drillings through the block.

 

To somewhat demystify the oiling system and keep you awake at night pondering the vital flow of oil throughout your built up 5.9L Cummins, here is the factory view of the lubrication system.  While the ISB is much different than engines like the SBC that oil the stamped rockers and stud pivots via the pushrods and the lifter's oil supply, the design is traditional with engines that have rocker shafts.  In this case, though, there is no single shaft for the row of rockers but rather a fulcrum "shaft" for each pair of valves:

 

   Dodge Ram Cummins 5.9L Engine Oiling System.pdf

 

The lifters or tappets, I would guess from the poor factory diagrams and other engines with this tappet design (vintage Ford Y-block V-8s come to mind), get oil from the block gallery adjacent to the tappets.  If this is correct, the camshaft lobes get oil either from the drain down from the tappets or from the splash oil that the crankshaft and rods produce—or from both sources.  Note that the factory description in the attached PDF is very lacking.  There's mention of the oil going up to the rockers and even to the pushrod tip/socket, then there is literally a cut-off sentence that leaves us speculating where the rocker/pushrod oil might go then.  From experience with similar engine designs, I'd hint that the top of the tappet (pushrod seat and maybe the bore) likely receives lube from the rocker socket via oil drainage down the pushrod.

 

When you installed the new lifter/tappets, did you see any oil holes in the block's tappet bores?  If so, was there a machined groove down the tappet bore to carry oil onto the camshaft lobe?  If not, the mushroomed head or bottom of the tappet and the camshaft lobe would require crankshaft/rod oil splash and/or drain down oil from the upper valvetrain parts, maybe even oil from the piston cooling jets...Steady oil splash from the crankshaft and rods would be the most likely oiling source.  Your thoughts here?

 

Note: I revisited my older Motors Manuals on the Ford Y-block OHV V-8 (1954-64 Ford era 272/292/312 and derivative configurations like the 239 and 256) and the 215/223/262 OHV inline sixes .  They each have "mushroom tappet/lifters".  There is no oiling provision beyond pressurized oil feed to the camshaft bearings, which the Cummins ISB engines have as well (both camshaft insert and bare block bearings as you describe, Megatron).  It is clear that these Ford engines' lifters and camshaft lobes are oiled by 1) the pushrod drainage oil that is within the "valley" of the V-type designs or straight down the pushrods on the inline sixes (like the Cummins) and 2) also from the steady crankshaft/rod splash, which is likely the primary oil source for the lifter bases and camshaft lobes.  These engines each had "mechanical" lifters like the Cummins ISB; valves require periodic valve clearance adjustments. (Of course, any engine with hydraulic lifters must have pressure-fed oil through a lifter oil gallery.) 

 

Footnote: As a point of interest, if the lifters require a crucial supply of oil from the crankshaft/rod splash, the engine would not be a candidate for a dry-sump lubrication system conversion!

 

Perhaps a forum member reading this thread has a further take on the 5.9L ISB cam lobe and tappet lubrication.  Maybe Hamilton does.  Let's pursue this...

 

Moses

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Moses,

 

 I added a couple pictures and I will add some more later. I wanted you to get a look at the valve spring compressor tool. Here is the link from where I purchased it.

 

http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7581-cummins-valve-spring-compressor-24-valve-19985-2012-dpp-10201.aspx

 

 

This thing worked like a charm. I always like a tool that does what it says it can do. This one is a winner.

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This is ingenious, Megatron!  Compressing all four valve springs at one time, using the factory pedestal/fulcrum shaft mounting point as a base...fast, easy, failsafe with all four valves closed and the piston for that cylinder at TDC!  This is a good one...What a time saver!

 

Looks like the valve keepers are well exposed, too, reducing risk (as you hinted earlier) of the valve keepers dropping through an engine opening and into the inner workings or the oil pan.  Still a good idea to fill all exposed openings with clean rags when you do this job...

 

Moses

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The adapter on the bottom actually mounts to the injector bolt holes. then the blue plate is tightened down via a nut. For anybody that does use it, be sure to add plenty of anti seize to all the threads. Don't want to hand anything up.

 

     As for using it, ya you just bring that cylinder to top dead center. Install the base where the injector bolts down, run the top nut down. It will start to open the valves until they tough the top of the piston. I think you have like.080+/- of valve clearance at TDC so they don't move far. Once they come in contact with the piston you will feel it tighten up an bit. Then you will hear a couple distinct clicks as the valve locks unseat themselves from the spring retainer. After that crank it down until you have enough room to pull the locks out. Then back off the nut and take the plate off. At this point you can remove all the springs at once. You could also take this time to change out the valve seals if needed.

 

 Install is a bit trickier but not any harder. Just take care to aligning all the wholes up with the valve stems so they are centered. You really don't have a away of moving them once its under pressure enough to get the locks back in.

 

  *** Be sure to read the face of the tool. It is specific to which valve is in which hole. It is clearly marked 2 holes for intake and 2 holes for exhaust*** Without measuring I can only assume that the valve orientation in the head is not truly even. They appear to be close but not exact. Either way the tool is designed and built with this compensation in mind. Its clearly engraved so if you can read you are golden.

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Ah, the fixture attaches to the injector bolt holes, that makes more sense in terms of positioning.  The piston crowns should have valve reliefs, so the valves are not digging their edges into the piston crowns.  The force is minimal against the pistons, the tool is simply trying to compress the springs enough to enable dislodging the valve keepers.  Cool!

 

Moses

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