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How to Loosen a Dana 300 Input Shaft Retainer/Support


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Newbie here. Searched this site (and every other site I could find) on how to remove the input shaft retainer on the dana 300. I went ahead and removed the hex bolts, but everyone says "there are slots for assisting in prying it off,"  . . . . sorry, but not on mine (1980 shortie. Has part #300-360-1 stamped on it). Any suggestions on how to get it started/break seal without scoring up the retainer or mating face?

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Pjeds, welcome to the forums!  In my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 edition, I show the removal of the front input shaft retainer/assembly.  You're not just removing the retainer.  It comes out with the bearing, input shaft gear and shaft, all part of an "assembly".  This is actually considered a unit sub-assembly when you rebuild the Dana 300.

 

So, unless the shaft or gear is binding or under side load, the assembly should slide out once the seal is broken between the retainer and main case.  There is no paper gasket on this retainer/bearing support, and I fully respect your concern about not scraping the aluminum with pry tools.  To break this seal, I would use a metal putty knife with a sharp edge, placing the sharp edge toward the iron case.  Lightly tap the putty knife handle end with a sand filled head plastic hammer.  Keep the edge in the gap of the retainer/support.  Go around the piece evenly, a small amount of force at a time. 

 

This will separate the sealer bond, and that's all you're doing at this stage.  You should see a gap forming between the retainer and case.  This means the seal is broken.  If the retainer still has resistance, move to a thin scraper tool.  K-D and others make these with a wedged scraping end and relatively thin body.  You're using the ramping effect of the wedge shaped cutting edge...

 

Again, keeping the aluminum in mind, work lightly around the retainer, using the sand filled head hammer or similar blunt force.  The input shaft's back end engages a pilot bearing or needles in the output shaft's pilot bore.  Unless there is a seized shaft or pilot bearing(s), this input assembly and retainer should come out readily—and without great force.

 

Don't force parts.  You're on the right track.  Unless you suspect a seized input shaft to pilot bearing or gear bind from a badly damaged gear and bearing set, the sealant at the retainer should be the only resistance here.

 

Keep us informed, if this does not work, I have other approaches...

 

Moses

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Moses, thanks for the prompt response. I have your book (great source of info) as well as FSM/Haynes/etc and feel I am well "informed" on the process ahead of me. However, book knowledge isn't the same as experience. I have tried the putty knife and mallet endlessly to no avail -- sealed tighter than Fort Knox. Can I tap directly on the retainer to attempt to loosen it without bending or damaging anything inside? This is a rebuild so all seals, bearings, etc will be replaced. Is there a reason my particular retainer doesn't have any slots? Aftermarket perhaps? (everything appears to operate freely inside.)

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If the rear U-joint yoke has been removed, the output shaft could move forward in the manner you describe.  A brass drift punch and hammer, tapping at the recess in the output shaft end (avoid the threads!) could do it.  The output would be driving either the pilot bearing shoulder or the bottom of the pilot bore against the input shaft.  Worse case scenario, the pilot bearing cage might get damaged, but if so, you were likely replacing the pilot bearing anyway.

 

Do not drive the output shaft very far forward—parts misalignment could effect the rest of the disassembly.  Once the front retainer and input assembly are moving, bring the output shaft back to its original position.  You should be able to get the input assembly moving with very little effort, so tapping the output forward should not demand much movement. 

 

Let us know how this works...

 

Moses

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I'm sure you've heard this before, but you ARE the master. Although I was able to think thru a solution for myself, it is my trust in your wisdom and knowledge that made it possible. Just took a couple of taps and I was able to fit the putty knife in between the case and retainer. Much thanks!

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Pjeds...Thanks for the compliment...I could readily relate to your concern about the aluminum retainer.  Your caution here was practical and warranted, these parts are not easy to find and can get expensive. 

 

Pleased that the tips worked.  Your disassembly should go very well from here.  Available for any questions...

 

Moses

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