Nut & Bolt Jeep CJ-7 Rebuild

[spdljohn]

I wanted to start a "catch all" thread for my cj7 rebuild I started a few weeks ago.  Please feel free to jump in with advice and/or tell me what Im doing wrong or could be doing better.  Some of these pics are the same ones I posted on a couple of other threads but new photos will keep coming.

 

Right now Ive got a Omix ADA steel body coming (didn't go with fiberglass per my conversation with Moses).  Frame is at welder getting sandblasted and touched up.  Had a couple of rusted out body mounts and some nuts that had wrung off on the inside of the frame he is fixing.

Just got through today rebuilding my pedal bracket assembly.  Also got heater assembly taken apart, cleaned out, and getting ready to sand it paint it and put it back together.

 

The list of to do items keeps growing.  Rebuilding a CJ7 gets very expensive with my obsessive compulsive tendencies!

 

I have new dana 44 axles coming from east coast gearing in Raleigh NC with disc brakes all around, old man emu suspension from Rocky Road, shackle reversal kit from MORE, and 6.0 LS GM engine with AX15 tranny, dana 300 coming from Novak conversions.

 

David

[spdljohn]

Here are some pics of the rebuilding of the jeep pedal frame assembly.  Pretty rusty.  Sandblasted it after disassembly.  The brake has two bushings, the cloth has two bearings.  I pressed these out and ordered new ones.  I ordered clutch pedal return spring online.  The brake pedal return spring I got from advance auto parts.  They didn't have one specifically for the cj7 but they have some "universal" springs that you cut to fit your particular applications.  Seems to work good enough.  

David

[60Bubba]

Hah! I just posted up pictures of my old and improved pedal box.  Lots of work, but I figure making it last another 30+ years for my kid should be worth the effort.  I wish I had the scratch to upgrade engine, transmission and axles.  The $3500 in paint and Rhino Liner plus all the required replacement parts has broken the budget for this year.  I have a functional 4.0 HO engine in there, so I can "limp" along for another couple of seasons

 

I do envy your shop. I'm currently working in a crammed two car garage, half of which is full of dog kennel.  There are Jeep parts hidden in every imaginable corner.  I spend a lot of time sitting on the floor of the garage playing with car parts--pretty much like when I was 5, I suppose.

[spdljohn]

I have a very understanding wife.  She doesn't get my need to turn wrenches and get greasy.  The shop is nice to have.  I built it about 3 years ago on some property we bought and eventually moved onto.  She likes me having it because it keeps my mess away from the house.

 

I hear what you're saying about the need to put money into certain aspects and not others.  I have wanted a cj7 since high school.  Back then my father wouldn't let me have one, then my wife said it was impractical.  Then kids came along....you get the idea.  Now the kids are old enough to get in the shop with me so rebuilding an old car is a good excuse to get the kids to hang around their old man.

 

I figured I would do this one time (rebuild a jeep).   Wanted to do it right so that the kids could still be driving it down the road so to speak.

 

My 4.0 still ran, most of the time.  I bought the jeep for $3000 and put about 500 miles on it.  I bought it with the intention of breaking it down and building it back up.  I put the power train on craigslist but so far nobody has called about it.  Maybe should drop the price.   Has an sr4 transmission which I understand is not the greatest tranny jeep ever put in their vehicles.  

 

The guy Im working with at Novak conversions said they would take the dana 300 transfer case and give me about $300 credit for it.  So far I haven't bothered taking it off the rest of the power train.  

 

David

[60Bubba]

I'd say your SR4 is about one gear less valuable than my T5.  With the slightly more powerful engine from the Cherokee and 33" tires, I'm just waiting for it to go sproing.  I may have to look into an AX15 myself someday.  As for your powertrain, if you put it up on some of the other Jeep forums you might have success getting rid of it locally.  That Dana 300 is about the best stock T-case Jeep ever built (at least according to Moses' book ). If I weren't in California, I might buy it just to have a spare. 

 

I also have an understanding wife.  I have a bad habit of not keeping cars long, but she knows I've been wanting to do this rebuild since I was a kid and my dad suggested it.  We just never had the money to make it happen.  Now that I can afford it, Dad isn't around, but I'd like to think he's watching somehow.

 

Anyway, your specs look awesome, and if you have any questions, just holler.  I'll probably be about a day ahead of you in the rebuild since my parts are coming back from paint! Maybe I can get through the frustrating parts and share the knowledge.

 

Case

[Moses Ludel]

You both are doing terrific work...I'm closely following the LS V-8 swap with the AX15 and waiting for David's take on that engine powering a CJ-7.  There's such an abundance of power that any situation should be no challenge for the LS, especially with the axle gearing and Dana 300's low range.

 

I'm paying close attention to the shop space thing.  What I've discovered from the use of a single car garage to a big shop is how adept one can be at choosing the right tooling and adjusting to floor space.  I've been thinking about doing a video series on choosing equipment and tools, both DIY and fully professional, that meet real world needs.  I can share how to do more with less.

 

When we sold our last property, including 2400 sq. ft. of shop and office space plus 600 sq. ft. of utility storage space, the aim was to downsize.  I'm now fully functional with 480 sq. ft. of designated shop/studio footage and an additional 10' x 20' raised floor sheet metal storage "shed".  The only tooling I gave up in the move was my hoist...The compressor, big blasting cabinet and black pipe air system that stayed with the property have since been replaced with sufficient substitutes.  I actually upsized the compressor to accommodate a new blasting cabinet and other chores.

 

David, your parts paint work is very well done, are you shooting with an HVLP gun?  The priming is also excellent.  My large bead blasting cabinet at our former shop was big enough for an axle housing.  I'm now using a smaller T-P Equipment unit that works fine for the volume of blasting that I'm doing...I spray primer and paint with an HVLP spray gun and have some techniques acquired when I did commercial mechanical restoration work on vintage vehicles.  If you're curious, I know some good ways to protect metal and even restore damaged castings and other types of metal parts—including cast iron and alloy metal repairs with TIG.

 

Do you weld?  That's another instructional area I'd like to expand on.  I taught welding at the adult vocational level in addition to automotive/diesel technology.  Welding and metallurgy are real "industrial arts".  I began offering how-to at the magazine and ran into time constraints, would like to pick that up again.

 

Moses   

[spdljohn]

60Bubba, I may have to take you up on asking some questions once I get started putting it back together.

 

Moses, I'm embarrassed to say that to repaint the pedal bracket assembly, I didn't bother getting out my HVLP gun.  It's straight out of a spray can!! Rustoleum.  I figured it would be good enough to go under the dash. 

 

I do some welding but I am looking to upgrade my equipment.  I do some hobby farming and so most of my welding has been on gravely tired old tractors and equipment where it doesn't matter how pretty or ugly the beads are.  I have a 220 volt stick welder and a110 MIG welder that can use argon shielding but I typically use flux core which splatters everywhere.  I would like to invest in a nice 220 volt mig welder setup with gas.  TIG welding would be fun to learn too.

 

As far as sandblasting is concerned, I don't know if it makes me strange but there is something very satisfying about sandblasting.  I enjoy it very much.  Right now I use a sandblaster I bought from tractor supply.  It is not a cabinet (which is also on the "honey, I really need this" list).  I have had my eye on a 48 inch blasting cabinet from northern tool.

 

Moses, what are your thoughts on painting the bottom of the tub and the engine side of the firewall with POR 15 top coat vs having the body shop paint the whole thing/clear coat underneath/etc?

David

[Moses Ludel]

David, there is already a good block of welding information and instructional at the magazine website.  I just dropped the word "welding" into the magazine's search box and these URLs came up.  I think you'd like the gas welding approach, it's a great foundation for TIG and very useful for light gauge and small parts where a diffuse heat is advantageous.  When time permits, I'd like to do an instructional/tutorial on each type of welding, and make the series available for Vimeo On Demand streaming library rentals.  These links below are all free:

 

HD Video: 2011 WFTW Trail Welding Repair

In this segment, 4WD volunteer John Cox assists a fellow four-wheeler while on the 2011 WFTW Rubicon Super Event. Equipped with a Ready Welder, auto battery operated flux-core spool welder, John quickly performs a repair that will help the CJ Jeep get back to camp.

www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-2011-WFTW-Trail-Welding-Repair.html

 

Gas Welding: Tip Sizes and Cutting Torch Settings

These charts cover the gas settings and tip sizes for oxygen-acetylene welding, brazing, cutting and heating processes. Review these data recommendations before performing oxy-acetylene welding, cutting, brazing and heating chores.

www.4wdmechanix.com/Gas-Welding-Tip-Sizes-and-Cutting-Torch-Settings.html

 

How-to: Gas Welding Session Two

Session Two of the gas welding series covers gas welding equipment set up and safety. Setting up the cylinders, regulators, hoses and gas welding torch gets the process started.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Two.html

 

How-to: Gas Welding Session Four

'How-to: Gas Welding Session Four' discusses turning on gas safely and setting pressures for gas welding. Learn to safely open the cylinder valves, set correct pressures and turn the system off.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Four.html

 

Gas Welding Metal Restoration Video

Moses Ludel shares oxygen-acetylene gas welding techniques used in Jeep restoration work. See this slideshow presentation from the 2011 Midwest Willys Reunion.

www.4wdmechanix.com/Gas-Welding-Metal-Restoration-Video.html

 

How-to: Gas Welding Practice Exercises

For each welding process, there are practice exercises that help improve your skills. In this section of the 'How-to: Welding Class', you will find practice steps for the gas welding material covered.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Practice-Exercises.html

 

How-to: Gas Welding Session Five

'How-to: Gas Welding Session Five' discusses setting pressures, lighting the torch safely and beginning to gas welding. See how-to tack weld with oxygen-acetylene process.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Five.html

 

How-to: Gas Welding Session Six

'How-to: Gas Welding Session Six' discusses welding beads and filling metal with the gas welding process. In these two HD videos, see the how-to methods for controlling a liquid puddle and using the right filler metal material to run a bead.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Six.html

 

Video: TIG Repair of Large Iron Castings

At the 2011 Midwest Willys Reunion, Moses Ludel presented details on TIG welding iron castings. In this video you will discover how GTAW-TIG process restored a large iron axle casting.

www.4wdmechanix.com/Video-TIG-Repair-of-Large-Iron-Castings.html

 

How-to: Gas Welding Session One

Gas welding is the foundation for all other welding methods. In this opening session, Moses Ludel discusses the equipment needs for oxygen-acetylene welding, brazing and cutting.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-One.html

 

How-to: Gas Welding Session Three

'How-to: Gas Welding Session Three' discusses the choice of gas welding tips, gas pressures and gauge metal thickness. Learn to save gas and select the right gas pressure and tip size for specific mild steel plate thicknesses.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Three.html

 

How-to: Completing the Gas Welding Exercise

This HD video session completes the gas welded cube project. The demonstration shows the versatility of oxy-acetylene gas welding and its similarity to other welding processes.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Completing-the-Gas-Welding-Exercise.html

 

How-to: Gas Welding Vertical & Overhead Beads

This session includes HD video examples of running a gas welding bead. The demonstration of oxy-acetylene welding processes includes beads formed with and without filler material.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Vertical-&-Overhead-Beads.html

 

Gear and Transmission Case Restoration

Sometimes a gear or transmission case is damaged and obsolete. In this slideshow, Moses Ludel demonstrates how to TIG repair a gear and broken transmission case.

www.4wdmechanix.com/Gear-and-Transmission-Case-Restoration.html

 

How-to: Gas Welding Bead Formation

This session includes HD video examples of running a gas welding bead. The demonstration of oxy-acetylene welding processes includes beads formed with and without filler material.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Bead-Formation.html

 

How-to: Oxygen-Acetylene Gas Cutting

Gas cutting is a traditional process for cutting carbon metals. Today, oxygen-acetylene cutting and plasma cutting are both popular. In this HD video segment, see how a gas cutting torch can quickly cut metal in a real world project.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Oxygen-Acetylene-Gas-Cutting.html

 

How-to: Gas Weld Integrity Test

This HD video session demonstrates the strength and integrity of the final welding project. The coupon cube gets tested on a 20-ton press to see how the welds react.

www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Weld-Integrity-Test.html

 

HTP Circle Cutting Attachment for Plasma Cutters

HTP America offers affordable solutions for welding and plasma cutting. Cutting circles is always a challenge, and HTP America has simplified the process with a new, affordable accessory!

www.4wdmechanix.com/HTP-Circle-Cutting-Attachment-for-Plasma-Cutters.html

 

MIG Welding Project: Installing the Pivot King

When our rugged, six-year-old tire carrier sagged, the Pivot King square tube pivot axle became the solution. Pivot King provides the optimal foundation for building a carrier from scratch, restoring an older carrier or upgrading your rectangular tubing spare carrier. This makes a practical MIG welding project, too!

www.4wdmechanix.com/MIG-Welding-Project-Installing-the-Pivot-King.html

 

Video Review: Cold Fire Extinguishers

Four-wheeling, welding and shop environments require safety tools. High on the list is fire suppression equipment. Cold Fire is a new method of fire suppression. 4WD Mechanix Magazine reviews the new products and technology from Cold Fire.

www.4wdmechanix.com/Video-Review-Cold-Fire-Extinguishers.html

 

HD Videos: 2011 Wheelers for the Wounded Rubicon Super Event

The 2011 Wheelers for the Wounded Rubicon Super Event was an exceptional outing. Three years into the program, the volunteers and vets had a great time on the trail and at camp. In this HD video series, Moses Ludel covers the event weekend.

www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Videos-2011-Wheelers-for-the-Wounded-Rubicon-Super-Event.html

 

HTP America's MicroCut 600 plasma cutter is a workhorse. At 40 amps of power, you can cut up to ½” steel. Small size and just 22 pounds means you can take this powerhouse anywhere. With inverter technology, the MicroCut 600 only needs 30 amps of 220 volt power!

www.4wdmechanix.com/HTP-America's-MicroCut-600-Plasma-Cutter.html

Welding Safety and Protective Wear

Welding is a vital part of 4WD and light truck repairs, upgrades and how-to projects. This HD video session discusses welding safety and protective gear. Make your welding a safe shop practice. Use the right protective gear to prevent burns, cuts and eye injuries.

www.4wdmechanix.com/Welding-Safety-and-Protective-Wear.html

 

Put "HTP" into the search box at www.4WDmechanix.com if your interests include combination TIG/Stick welders and how they set up.  They do make good machines...

 

I've developed my underhood filming technique over time (fortunately) and can now set up the camcorder angles (like on the fusion subject itself and not the weldor's back).  I can use studio lighting for maximum instructional benefit.  Welding is a hand-to-eye coordination thing.  Often, watching a properly done welding video is way more effective than reading a textbook or listening to a lecture.  Each instructional technique has its place...

 

Your Rustoleum paint job should work very nicely.  Modern spray paint formulas can produce great results, and Rustoleum is a good product.  As for the firewall and underbody, the issue with paint, at least for the underbody, is chipping.  The firewall is at far less risk.  I would use a tough material at the bottom of the tub.  Make sure the primer/sealer base is of high quality.  I'm not clear about these steel replacement bodies and how the seams get caulked and primer-sealed.  Don't overlook that measure, as caulking and sealing is critical.  Case eliminated that issue with the Rhino Liner, as the liner material, when applied correctly, will fill pores and seams well.

 

I like a coating of semi-gloss or a flatter black commercial epoxy primer for exposed castings that do not have UV on them.  It is tough and, again, seals well.  This is where our HVLP spray gun comes in handy. 

 

As a standard precaution, make sure you use a respirator or, ideally, a body suit and air supply when handling modern paint "chemistry".  The VOCs and quick flash materials are highly toxic and carcinogenic.  Protect your skin, eyes and ears as well.  When I advanced to Director of Vocational Training at the Rite of Passage programs and turned over the automotive classroom to a former body and paint professional and mechanic, he cautioned that these modern spray-delivered products are attracted to any moist area of the body, making eyes ears, mouth and nose especially vulnerable to absorption when exposed.  As you know, if you can smell paint, you're overexposed.

 

Moses

[Kevin's 83-CJ8]

I just looked through your photo’s that you posted on this. I thought the Jeep was really nice to start with. I can’t wait to see what it looks like when you are done. The idea of buying a Jeep with the initial intention of restoring is really neat. I have wanted to overhaul mine for years, but I have never had the money and do not want to be without it for that long. I like your approach.

 

It is great that your kids come out to help. My son comes out to help me from time to time. It seems that I am always working on my Jeep for something so he has gotten kind of immune to the idea of helping (it has become work). But it is always special to me when he comes out to hang out and help.

 

I just went through a major repair with my Dana 300 T-case. If you have not made your decision about that, I can tell you the $300 dollar offer is really fair. You might get that selling it online, but that is a very fair price. The folks that need a T-case, really need it. I found mine in a junkyard from a wreck and it was like a ray of sunshine. If you want to really make someone’s day, sell that T-case. Most people fear that the ones purchased over the internet need to be rebuilt. You have the piece that may make some guys nightmare go away.

 

I might have missed it, but what did you say you were going to do with your differential gearing? Are you going to stick with the original gears? What are they? It looks like you have some big tires on there. Now that you have such superior horsepower, will you need to re-gear?

 

Keep us posted on this – Lets see how you and your kids work through the rebuild.

 

Kevin

[spdljohn]

Thanks Kevin. The jeep had 33x12.50 15" rims. Not sure what gearing WAS. I'm going to have 3.73 gears as it will be mostly driven on the road. Going to wait and see if I can stuff the 33s back under with my new suspension setup (old man emu lift). If I can't then I'm going to go down to 32s or 31s possibly. Alternatively if I really want to stay with 33s it would be easy to lift the body an inch.

Still trying to figure that all out.

It will be interesting to see how the gearing works out with the new power plant. As far as the speedometer is concerned with the gearing/tires, I bought a new gauge set from speed hut. The speedometer is gps driven so at least it won't care what gears and tires I have.

David

[spdljohn]

By the way I found this guys rebuild blog too. He is a few steps ahead of me but has great photos and is doing a great job.

http://1983cj7.blogspot.com

[spdljohn]

Took delivery of the new omix Ada body kit today. They are running free shipping special by the way. Pretty impressed with what you get for the money. Tub is made in the Philippines. Every other part says made in Taiwan. Holes are already drilled in the firewall. Dash already has holes cut including speaker grills. I have a clock and a tach to put in place. Those were the only holes not drilled. Glove box is metal as opposed to the plastic one I had already purchased to put in. Couple of things I dont

Iike. There are no nuts welded on for dash screws or fender bolts. The painters/body shop will have some work to do with finishing the body. No big deal for them I'm sure.

Unpackaged it last night. Got it loaded on the trailer. Gonna take it over to line x today to have the under side of the body, inside of the tub, bottom side of fenders, and engine side of firewall sprayed with bed liner. Was gonna do por 15 but Bedliner seems like the way to go.

One little dent under drivers side floor board. No big deal. Can knock it out pretty easily. You can see in picture.

[60Bubba]

Here's something I might be able to save you some time on!  I love the Rhino Liner (I prefer Line-X, but we don't have one nearby) BUT, it is thick.  I insisted the body shop plug the holes for all the captured nuts in the tub and firewall, such as those for the seats and roll bar.  They grumbled, but complied.  Its a dang good thing, because those holes would have been unusable.  Unfortunately, they DIDN'T mask off the studs on the firewall for the clutch linkage, etc.  I spent about 2 hours with a die and various nuts cleaning up those studs. 10 minutes with a roll of tape would have saved me an afternoon's work cleaning.  I also found I've had to run a drill bit through some un-threaded holes like the ones for the steering column brace on the firewall.  The bolts wouldn't go through otherwise.

 

Hope this helps, and good luck!

 

Case

[spdljohn]

Case,

That is good thinking.  I did mention the holes that are in the floor board for the seats, etc.  He said they roll up a small piece of masking tape, stick it in the holes, spray, and then before the line x dries they pull the tape out.  I didn't think about the studs on the firewall though.  Ill mention that.  

I was under the assumption they were going to take care of it today but they said they couldn't get to it till next week.   When he saw my disappointment he said, "how bout saturday."  He said they open on occasion on saturdays.  I said that would be great.   Dropping it off at noon, picking it up at 5.  he said leave the trailer and they will take it off, do the job, and then load it back on for me.

 

David

[spdljohn]

Got the jeep body back from line x.  Actually dropped it off at noon, they called at 4 and said it was ready.  They already had it loaded back on my trailer I left with them when I picked it up.  They sprayed heavy in wheel fenders.  Said based on the number of gallons it took to spray they added about 80 lbs in weight just to the tub alone.  They covered all holes and threaded studs.  

 

[60Bubba]

Lookin' good!  I'm curious as to what if any sound deadening the liner will provide.  Since we both did top and bottom of the tub, that will be two full layers of goo.  I suspect it won't be as quiet as the carpet, but probably lots better than paint alone. 

 

As for assembly, I found that the non-threaded holes lost almost an eighth of an inch of inside diameter from the liner material.  Had to chase lots of them with a drill bit to get my brake booster bolts, etc. to go through.  Looking forward to seeing more.

[Moses Ludel]

Spdljohn...The tub looks great, David!  You'll both be very pleased over time that you took this approach.  Cleaning the Jeep after a muddy trail, peace of mind around corrosive winter roads, salt air, whatever you throw at these tubs, you've got a Jeep CJ tub that will last the life of the vehicle. 

 

For those living at the Rust Belt, this is the tub cure.  The bottom side is at least as important as the interior and bed.  Perforation rust usually begins at the underside on an AMC-era CJ Jeep.

 

What did the Line-X outlet say about the seal and prime on that tub from the Philippines?  From the photos, it looks okay.  Still best that you sealed the tub with Line-X liner.

 

Like that color, too!!!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

I was asking the line x guys some of the crazy things they have been asked to spray.  He said last week they sprayed the department of juvenile justices old showers that had some broken old tiles, a few weeks ago they sprayed a fountain in a neighborhood to prevent leaks.  He also said that when they rebuilt a portion of the pentagon after 9/11 they (not my particular line x guys) sprayed line x to "bomb proof" it; haven't verified this yet but the stuff is pretty tough.

 

Moses, they didn't say anything about the priming job from the phillipines.  It looks pretty good.   Once the jeep is assembled and I get it to the body shop they are going to have to use some bondo and seam filler and sand it down; they may end up taking the rest of the parts down to bare metal. 

 

Overall I'm pretty pleased with the quality of the body kit.

 

David

[spdljohn]

Its been a busy couple of days.  Frame came back from welder/sandblasting wednesday.  Very pleased with their work.  They replaced the rear frame crossmember with one I ordered online, rebuilt a couple of rusted out body mount brackets, and even were able to reweld in place a couple of nuts inside the frame that had stripped loose.  I blew all the sand out from inside the frame, painted the inside of the frame with Eastwood paint, and put on two coats of POR15 topcoat.  Some runs but serves the purpose of protecting the frame.

 

I am rebuilding the heater box.  Sandblasted the metal, replaced the foam seals on the flaps with some 1/4" neoprene I bought, sealed the gaps with silicone, primed and painted after wiping down with acetone.  I was able to find a blower motor resistor to replace the one that was in there that I wasn't sure worked.  Bought a new heater core but you can see from the pics the new one is thinner than the old one which makes me wonder if it will transfer heat as well.

 

I removed the old seat brackets from the seats, sandblasted, primed and painted them.

 

The most exciting thing that happened this week is the Novak power train arrived in town Wednesday.  Dave Ostermiller has been my point of contact at Novak.  He is following this thread.  He says this motor is spitting out about 325 horsepower and 360 ft/lbs of torque.  Should be enough!  Nerve racking having that new power train hanging so high above the ground as I pulled my truck out from under it; that's a long way to fall!

 

Got the new ac compressor mounted with Novak's relocation bracket tonight.

 

Went ahead and placed the new engine mount horns onto the frame.  Used the grinder to strip the POR15 from the frame where the mounts touch the frame for two reasons; so I could run a weld and to help ensure good grounding contact.

 

Last thing I did was to go ahead and mount the rear bumper I bought to the rear frame crossmember; didn't see any reason to not go ahead and knock that out especially since the fuel tank is not in yet and some say the tank has to be lowered to be able to get the bolts from the backside of the crossmember into the bumper.

 

Gonna take it easy tomorrow.  Will probably get back to it on Sunday.  

 

Happy weekending

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

David, this is a really thorough, top drawer restoration and build!  The Jeep CJ-7 needed considerable work, and you've not left anything out.  Terrific attention to detail and long term preservation measures...

 

Curious about the Novak engine mounting brackets.  I see that you bolted through the OEM bracket holes in the CJ frame.  Did Novak recommend the welds as backup?  Looks like that would make sense, as these mounts stand above the rails and can use that added support to prevent rocking.  The powertrain is awesome and well conceived for this swap.

 

Thanks much for sharing the detailed photos, please continue, this is an opportunity for others to see what a painstaking restoration and state-of-the-art upgrades can entail.  The classic look of a Jeep CJ-7 4x4 is enduring, you are building a legacy 4x4 that your wife and children will value!

 

Great job, David!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Moses

The instructions for the brackets said to run a bead across the top portion where it meets the frame. It didn't mention welding elsewhere. Do you think that's overkill or could even be detrimental?

[Moses Ludel]

David, I would follow the Novak instructions, they must have tested this approach thoroughly and know the engine's output.  The top bead above the frame rail is essential, or the bracket will flex under engine torque. 

 

Not sure what bolts Novak provided here.  If bolting the engine mount bracket to the frame, I would prefer a high tensile serrated shoulder ("wheel" type) bolt to help prevent bolt shoulder movement and frame/bracket hole elongation with wobble over time.

 

Here is a serrated shoulder example in a 3/8-inch stud size for a Polaris ATV: http://www.superatv.com/Polaris-Extended-Wheel-Studs-186-P219.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAiA2dSkBRCX8KmK5YrFviwSJACeYweCBGfrvzww1SxzP6HerEmNqTCdfXCn3a9-i5eXJh0ytxoC7u_w_wcB.  These bolt studs may be too long, perhaps the OEM studs would be the right length.  If you consider doing this, also check shoulder serration height, must be no taller than the thickness of the frame and bracket, possibly adding the washer thickness if necessary.  You get the idea...The serrations would drive into the frame and bracket hole, fitting snugly to prevent movement.

 

Note: A serrated shoulder bolt is as close to a rivet as you can get with a bolt.  For frame and engine brackets, rivets were popular in the day.  Weld-in frame/engine mounts are now common.  See my article on welded mounts for an inline six swap into a Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L YJ chassis:  http://www.4wdmechanix.com/MIG-Welding.html.  This emulates the factory mounting method in the post-CJ era.

 

On the AMC/Jeep models, including the CJ-7, Jeep did use bolt-on engine brackets with simpler high tensile bolts and nuts.  (You have this OEM hardware from the CJ-7 teardown.)  The AMC/CJ Jeep frame has holes to accommodate brackets for inline fours (2.5L Iron Duke and AMC 2.5L), inline sixes (232 and 258/4.2L) and the 304 V-8.  So, there is a factory precedent for bolt-on engine mount brackets even though the later Jeep Wranglers each have weld-in mounts that are integral frame members. 

 

I would not use split ring lock washers here.  My choice would be Grade 8 flat washers and "Toplock" Grade 8 nuts, all-steel type.  (This is not "aircraft nuts" with nylon inserts.)  Here's a descriptive, you know these nuts from your John Deere and modern ag equipment repairs: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distorted_thread_locknut.  These nuts will not vibrate or loosen.  They provide a tight, interference fit with the flat washers.  For added effect, high tensile Belleville washers could be used as an alternative to the flat washers: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer.

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

I am duly impressed with that engine and transmission! Also I see you did the blower motor upgrade.  I haven't used mine yet, but obviously having the heater box out is the right time to do it.  I opened up the firewall hole before I sent it out for Rhino Lining, and it was a snug fit to say the least! 

 

I didn't have to replace any motor mounts, but I did use some of those toplock nuts.  I replaced all my shock tower nuts, and toplock nuts was all I could get at Fastenal in a flanged style with the appropriate thread pattern.  I certainly hope they weren't incorrect for that usage.

[Moses Ludel]

60Bubba...If these flanged top lock nuts are sufficient grade, you did fine here.  They are available to Grade 8, although some are much lower tensile strength.  Take a pic of a nut(s), I'll confirm the Grade.   Here is a Fastenal catalog page with a variety of nut type offerings and trade names from lower grades to Grade 5 (F) or Grade G (Grade 8):  http://www.fastenal.com/catalog_pages/2009/3-115.pdf.

 

Top locking steel alloy nuts and flange nuts can be very effective locking fasteners.  One caveat is that they should be replaced if tension subsides after the first use.  Some replace these nuts with new whenever removed.  Also, tensile of the bolt threads should be a near match for the Toplock or equivalent nut.  Otherwise, if the bolt is lower tensile strength, the locking portion of the nut can damage the bolt's threads.

 

The "pinched top" feature is popular for critical applications like axle pinion and transfer case yoke flange nuts.  In these applications, the nut gets renewed at each disassembly...On a pinion flange or other critical points under direct load, I also apply Loctite as insurance.  For CJ Jeep shock absorber mounts, new top locking fasteners should stay put indefinitely if torqued to specification.

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

I bought a 20 gallon fuel tank from GenRight that I put in without difficulty. My CJ originally had a 15 gallon tank. My stock fuel filler hose was 1", my vent hose was 3/4". The new GenRight tank (like CJ7s with 20 gallon tanks I think) accepts a 1 1/4" filler hose and a 1" vent hose. The problem is the fuel filler neck I have is for the 1" and 3/4" hoses. I was able to find the bigger hoses for the CJ7 that will work on my new tank but I can't find a filler neck that accepts the larger hoses. Do you know if a YJ fuel filler neck that would work for what I need?

 

 

I ordered a new stock YJ sending unit from GenRight when I bought the tank. But I don't think it will do what I need it to do in terms of psi. Supposedly it's around 50-60 psi and Novak said to give the engine 90-100 psi. The new engine has a fuel regulator on the fuel rail.

 

 

Also the stock YJ sending unit they sent is for a tank with an eleven inch depth; my new tank is 12 inches deep. I figured if I need to modify the pump motor and lengthen the tubes and rods on the unit I might as well just find a new sending unit that fits the bill. The search begins.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

David...Regarding the fuel hoses, GenRight must pattern the fuel tank inlet tubes after the 20-gallon Jeep CJ tank. The 20 gallon Jeep CJ-7 fuel tank uses different hoses than the 15 gallon tank that you're replacing. The 20-gallon filler hoses have a stepped sizing to accommodate the differences between the filler neck and tank inlet tube sizes. Looks like you need to get 20-gallon tank stepped-size fuel hoses. Confirm the end sizing on the 20-gallon tank hoses.

Here are the OEM tanks and related components. Note the differences between the 15 and 20 gallon Jeep CJ tank systems:

 

1981 Jeep CJ Fuel Tank and Fillers.pdf

Scroll through the 15 and 20 gallon tank parts listings that cover all 1981-1986 CJ Models.

 

I'm guessing your new pump and gauge module for a YJ Wrangler is a 1991-95 variety and not for a TBI system (1987-90 2.5L engine). If a stock replacement pump for 1991-95, the pump should produce a peak of at least 75 psi on a two- to three-second (maximum) hose pinch test. These MPI systems rely on a pump that exceeds the regulated pressure.

Note: As for the unregulated fuel flow volume with this pump, the test specification is at least 1 liter of fuel flow per minute. On a Jeep YJ Wrangler chassis with a PCM, fuel flow volume gets tested by disconnecting the fuel supply line near the pressure regulator and safely collecting fuel in a gasoline container while activating the fuel pump with a DRB-III scan tool or an equivalent means. This test requires steady operation of the fuel pump.

The regulator normalizes the pressure to a lower figure (31-39 operating psi in the case of a Jeep YJ Wrangler MPI system) and returns the overage flow (excess pressure and volume) to the fuel tank. Think of this as the pressure and pickup tube/hose size at the supply side dictating the fuel volume or available fuel flow rate. The concern is the needed fuel flow rate (i.e., pressure/volume) for the LS V-8.

So, what's the required operating or regulated pressure of the GM fuel injection? If it's well below 75 psi, you may be okay. If it's close to or in excess of 75 psi, there's an issue. The rail regulator has a preset(s), and this may be either one setting or two. A vacuum diaphragm on the YJ Wrangler MPI regulator actuates a raised pressure setting (39 psi) during cranking. Once the engine starts, the regulated pressure drops to 31 psi at an idle on the YJ Wrangler with MPI.

Note: The signal for the YJ Wrangler MPI pressure regulator is simply manifold vacuum. Manifold vacuum drops under heavy engine loads or at wider throttle settings. This drops the available vacuum apply at the regulator. If the vacuum drop is great enough, the regulator will raise fuel pressure, and this meets the greater fuel flow demanded by a loaded engine. Maximum available psi would be the same as cranking psi: preset to 39 psi and not to exceed 45 psi. A reading beyond 45 psi indicates that the regulator is defective on a Jeep YJ Wrangler MPI system.

Caution: There may also be a recommended "spread" of psi between the regulated pressure and the pump's maximum output. It is likely undesirable for a pump to constantly put out pressure close to its peak. Note that for the stock MPI system on a YJ Wrangler, the 75 psi pump is only expected to deliver 39 psi (actually not in excess of 45 psi regulated pressure). That push back pressure is well below 75 psi.

These fuel pumps are numbered. A typical supplier in the U.S. aftermarket pumps would be Walbro. Bosch and others are in this field, too. Identify the pump manufacturer and the pump part number on the pump. We can research this part number and quickly determine the actual pump rating.

As for the pickup depth in the tank, you want the sock at the correct relationship to the tank floor. Confirm from GenRight where they want the sock to be located. It may be an inch off the floor. You also want the gauge to read accurately for the gallon capacity of the tank. GenRight should be able to confirm whether the module you ordered for a YJ Wrangler will read accurately in the tank size and application they supplied. Share with them the measured depth of the tank and the YJ Wrangler module/sock position in the tank.

I'm curious what ECU, ECM or PCM runs this engine? Does GenRight provide an engine control module (fuel-and-spark management computer) and wiring harness with a schematic to tie into your Jeep CJ-7 chassis electrics?  Is this stock GM programming?  GenRight modified?

Moses

[spdljohn]

Moses,

I went ahead and ordered Grade 8 serrated shoulder bolts, 3" long, along with the belleville washers and top lock nuts for the motor brackets you talked about.  Makes good sense.  Novak provided what looks like Grade 5 2.5" long 3/8-24 bolts with split ring lock washers, flat washers, and non locking nuts.  Would probably be fine but I'm gonna be taking your lead on a lot of this.

After talking with Dave at Novak and Genright I have decided to keep the stock YJ sending unit but modify it (Ill post pics as I do this).  Novak put me onto a fuel pump that has a flow of around 250L/hr.  Here is a link for that pump.

 

http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-f90000267-fuel-pump-e85

 

As far as the ECM, Novak provided that with the power train.  They reprogrammed it.  Ill be able to tell you more about that as I dig deeper into the project.

 

David

[60Bubba]

David,

 

I'm really excited to see what that beast does with VORTEC power!  When I first started "spreadsheet building" this project, I had a used 5.3L with a 4L60E behind it in mind for the powertrain.  Unfortunately, that setup would pretty much have cost the whole budget unless I did a lot of junkyard sourcing, which I have neither the time nor the expertise to handle at this point.  When I finally have to deal with engine/tranny, I hope to be able to go the package route like you have.  For now, I'll drive the snot out of the 4.0L and see what happens. 

 

Moses, here is a pick of the toplock flange nut I used on the shock mounts.  Couldn't see any dots, but it's hard to get a good angle with the fenders on.

 

 

[Moses Ludel]

60Bubba, if you look at the Fastenal PDF link I provided above, your top lock flange nuts fit the image of the two nuts at upper right.  If the nuts do not have serrations on the flange face, this should be the type you bought.  In any case, the tensile is either Grade 5 or Grade 8 according to this catalog listing.  We would need to see a straight-on photo to confirm dots, I can't see the series, only one, maybe two, those this does make me believe these nuts are Grade 5.

 

Grade 5 in this application would likely be okay because the shocks actually rest on the stud.  The nut holds the shock from moving laterally, which is not compression or rebound force as much as just maintaining the shock's alignment.

 

While Grade 8 is often used as a mantra for "strong", there are instances where the higher tensile strength of Grade 8 is a detriment in that the hardware is also less ductile.  Less ductility means that on steady pull, shear or shock loads, the bolt could very well snap rather than elongate enough to yield and recover. 

 

Vehicle OEMs and even winch manufacturers will often increase the stud size and decrease hardware tensile slightly.  This creates a stronger size bolt/nut for better load capacity and a lower tensile grade for more ductility.  Warn taught me this lesson decades ago when I asked why the set of winch mounting bolts were only Grade 5.  Their extreme field testing indicated that with the loads of winching, slightly more ductility would allow the bolt to yield some rather than snap under high shock loads.  I've since been very aware of hardware that can "give" slightly and still be strong—like a lower tensile strength Grade 5 bolt or nut.  Of course, there's the extreme of even lower tensile strength (Grades 4, 3 or 2) hardware that will snap, strip threads or fail from simply being too weak for the application.

 

On your CJ-7, there may be a clear example of Grade 5 bolts in an unexpected location:  My '81 CJ-5 came with Grade 5 (three marks on each bolt head) hardware at the rear leaf spring anchor ends.  The aim was apparently to prevent the bolts from snapping or shearing under severe service, which might have been the case with higher tensile Grade 8 bolts.  If you have the OEM bolts at the rear springs, let us know the tensile strength and Grade markings.  You will notice that these bolts have a large stud size for the application, and this is where AMC/Jeep made up the load capacity.

 

I always recommend using factory/OEM tensile strength replacement hardware and Grade.  Higher tensile than factory recommendations is not always better!  There is definitely a place for upgrading hardware, like going from Grade 5 to Grade 8;  however, upgrade hardware beyond OEM standards is not always desirable.

 

Moses

[Moses Ludel]

David (spdljohn)...This ultra high output fuel pump can handle E85, and that's a plus.  However, is there is a downside to running that high flow?  The link you provided is to a Walbro pump that flows 450 LPH (liters per hour) at peak and handles up to 750 horsepower.  You could fuel a race buggy with that kind of flow.

 

Your 325 horsepower LS 6.0L V-8 requires way less flow than this.  The theory behind flow is that you don't want the engine to starve.  So the pump must be capable of over-fueling to a point.  We're back to a regulator that redirects excess fuel back to the tank.  The high volume and pressure of this pump should be okay as long as the overage can flow back to the tank when the regulator releases pressure at the preset point...

 

If this turns out to be the recommended pump, and everyone is on board with the idea of using it, I have one suggestion:  Make sure that the return line to the tank is ample fuel hose size (same or close to the supply side tubing and hose) and a size recommended by Walbro.  The fuel inlet to the tank must also be this size.  You do not want back pressure that would boost the fuel pump pressure if the pump is capable of this kind of flow volume and pressure.  No return flow restrictions—ever.

 

Also, there is controversy about what kind of fuel line to use on the supply side.  The return to tank does not have a restrictor, but the supply side does:  the fuel pressure regulator.  Follow the recommended fuel line type (hard tubing, high pressure rated hose, a combination of each, whatever is officially recommended here) and use proper routing.  This is important to prevent fuel line vibration, pulsation and potential safety issues.  Tubing and hose connections, any clamps or junctions, all must meet safety standards for this kind of high pressure system.  The high pressure and flow depend on the regulator functioning properly, and the fuel must flow readily back to the tank from the regulator. 

 

I suggest researching or calling Walbro for their recommendation on a pump for your engine's horsepower.  They may want to see a buffer, say a pump rated for 400-450 horsepower or so.  Explain the engine type, rated horsepower and regulator setting or rail pressure.  (Have you determined that yet?)  Ask for the hose or tubing sizes recommended for the selected pump...When you determine the pump and fuel line setup, please share that useful information.  Others will benefit.

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Moses, thank you for your comments about the fuel pump.  The return line back to the tank is going to be 3/8", same as the supply side.  Novak recommended the pump but I do see where such a high flow rate could be a problem.  I'll check with Walbro to get their thoughts.  As far as fuel lines, I have braided stainless from the tank to the rail and back.  I was going to fasten them to the inside frame rail, same as stock location.

 

Made some progress tonight.  Still waiting on the suspension to come in so I figured I'd work on a few odds and ends.

 

Got some work done on the heater box.  My original blower fan was cracked in one spot.  A little JB weld and overnight pressure with a clamp should take care of that.

 

I also went ahead and placed some new 1/4" neoprene on some of the baffles and around the heater core and got it put back in place.  Planning on finishing up with the heater tomorrow.

 

As I mentioned a few posts ago I bought a hydroboost kit with Wilwood master cylinder from Matt Sweeting in CA.  Told him specifically what vehicle and he said he would take it from there and would send a bracket kit that matched up with the firewall.  The short of it is....it didn't match.

 

 Had my welder make a bracket that was fashioned after a cardboard template I took him yesterday.  Picked it up today, sandblasted it and painted it.  The kids said I needed a different color than black, so we went with red.  Got to go to Fastenal here in town tomorrow and pick up a different rod end to connect brake pedal to booster.

 

Will keep you posted on progress.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

Curious how J-B Weld works here.  I've been using a bona fide "plastic epoxy" material of late.  It's made by Permatex/Loctite.  It's also a two-part and seems to work well, the first DIY market plastic epoxy bonder I've found.  None of these products have high tensile strength, but the blower ring is not under a lot of pressure, just centrifugal force.  Curious what you think of the bond with J-B Weld.

 

On the pedal rod, there is such thing as Grade 5 and even Grade 8 rod stock.  I used to get both types from NAPA, not sure whether Fastenal carries these grades.  Do not use "general hardware grade" rod stock from places like Lowe's, Home Depot or similar "construction" suppliers.  Generic rod stock is typically Grade 2 or 3 at best.  Make sure that's not what Fastenal offers.

 

When you set up the rods and mate the master cylinder to the booster, make sure there is normal clearance between the pedal linkage and booster and the booster to master cylinder.  You need clearance at each point to keep the booster from applying prematurely and to allow the master cylinder piston to retract completely and not trap fluid at the compensating ports, which can create brake drag or lockup.

 

There should be specs on this, we've touched on the subject at our aftermarket master cylinder and booster discussion: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/482-1981-jeep-cj-7-frame-off-build-needs-brake-upgrade-solutions/.  I discussed the pedal linkage, booster and master cylinder clearance issue at 60Bubba's brake upgrade exchange: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/437-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-upgrade-for-a-cj-7-jeep/.  Scroll through each of these discussions.

 

Moses

[Moses Ludel]

spdljohn...At the 2014 SEMA Show in November, I attended a press conference for TI Automotive.  The group has recently acquired Walbro.  I just got a press release with the link to the latest "Performance Pump" catalog.  Here is the link, you may find it useful for making a fuel pump choice around the 325 horsepower LS 6.0L V-8:

 

http://aftermarket.tiautomotive.com/?utm_source=Vocus&utm_medium=PR&utm_campaign=Catalog

 

At the bottom of the document, you will find a click for downloading the full catalog.  There is also a question submission form for determining which pump is best for your application.  Check this out...

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Many things happened today.  Will post a couple of different times to cover it all.  Moses and I continue to work through the details of this build and his input is very much appreciated.

 

Got the heater box finished up.  The JB weld looks like it will hold the crack in the fan well.  I ran a bead of silicone around the lip of the box and put the heater box cover back in place.  All the new neoprene seals work great.  Made sure to strip the paint off of the studs that hole the box to the firewall as this is how the blower motor gets its ground.  The holes for the four studs were not predrilled in the firewall on the new body tub but lining it up and drilling in the right spot was not particularly difficult.   There were 4 rubber spacers to hole the heater box slightly off the firewall.  Bought some new ones that were too tall (left ones in the pic).  Sandblasted the old ones to get the crud off (right one) and reused them.  The ones in the middle were without sandblasting.

 

The new blower motor has a diameter of 3.5 inches, larger than the stock so I had to enlarge the firewall hole.  Did this with a hole saw.  The tub had the hole already cut out for the stock motor.  So to center and hold the hole saw in the right place I fashioned a 2X4 held in place from the opposite side through other predrilled holes as you can see in the pics.  Worked out well.  Had to fine tune the hole with a air grinder.

 

The upper air box had a crack in it.  Bought some epoxy putty which sets up in 25 minutes.  Ground down the area of concern, cleaned it with acetone, worked the putty, let it set, sanded it down primed and painted it.  Looks great.  The matte black paint hides the slight surface irregularities. (Sorry, forgot to get a pic of the final product)

[spdljohn]

Bought some aftermarket bumper support brackets as the bumper I bought has a swinging spare tire carrier and a hitch receiver so wanted to make sure we have plenty of strength.  When I took the frame to the welder I took him a new rear frame crossmember I purchased.  He replaced the rusted one with the new one and so I feel good about the welds connecting the crossmember to the frame but want to be double sure.

 

When I went to dry fit the brackets the one on the driver side fit well.  The one on the passenger side didn't fit quite right.  I had to take the air grinder and enlarge the bumper holes towards the center of the jeep.  What I figured out was that the new rear frame crossmember was not put on exactly in the center.  When I measured I found it was off by about 1/2 of a centimeter.  No big deal.  The other thing that I had to do to get it to fit was to grind off the back corner of the bracket as the new weld the welder ran was a little proud.  Shouldn't affect the bracket too much in terms of strength.

 

The other issue was the bolts they sent to go through the frame go through predrilled holes.  The ones on the outside of the frame were nice and tight.  The holes on the inside of the frame were larger than the diameter of the bolt.  So I purchased some 1.5 inch tall 1/4" thick metal from Lowes and fashioned a gusset for the inside of the frame, sandblasted, primed and painted to match the brackets.  Now I've got to get new bolts that a little longer than the ones they sent.  I'll take care of that tomorrow.

 

They sent 8 washers for the four bolts.  One on the inside and one on the outside of the frame.  The ones that go on the rear bolt outside frame had to be bent/modified to fit inside the bracket.

David

 

 

[spdljohn]

At the recommendation of Moses, I went ahead and purchased grade 8 3" long wheel stud type serrated shoulder bolts, belleville washers, and top lock nuts.  Took the bolts Novak included with the motor brackets out and replaced them.  Though the serrated bolts are 3/8" and were somewhat tight and had to be coerced in the holes with a hammer, some of them began to spin a little as I began putting the top lock washers on.  Was able to hold the head of the bolts with a locking plier.  Once they tightened down they quit spinning.

 

There are six bolt holes for each motor bracket.  When I was disassembling the jeep I found that two of the spacers inside the frame that prevent the frame from being squeezed down when the bolts are tightened had come loose.  Forgot to get the welder to fix this when I was at it.  You can see in the pics where those two bolts indented the outer frame slightly as I torqued the bolts down to 35 ft/lbs.  May want to make me reconsider going ahead and welding the entire motor bracket in place.

 

David

[spdljohn]

Lastly I went ahead and drilled out and mounted the master cylinder for the new hydraulic clutch that Novak sent with the new power train.  The input rod for the cylinder has a 1/2 inch hole to connect to the clutch pedal.  Unlike the brake pedal, the clutch pedal does not have a 1/2 inch stud to connect the input rod.  I very carefully marked and drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the clutch pedal and attached the pedal rod.  I have somewhere between 1 1/4" and 1 3/8" of throw/movement of the rod.  Hope that's enough to fully disengage the clutch.

 

To connect the rod to the pedal I used a stainless 1/2" X 2 1/4" high tensile strength bolt.  I used that length to get a sufficient shoulder on the bolt to accommodate the eyelet on the rod.  I used a combination of a flat washer and split ring washer Not tightened down to align the rod on the stud and keep it in alignment with the master cylinder.  I wanted to "sandwich" the clutch pedal between two serrated flange nuts but if I would have put a nut on the outside of the pedal it would have caused too much misalignment.  So I cut down to about a 1/4 inch a nut, retapped and put it on the bolt.  Works great.  

 

David

[60Bubba]

I've been constantly amazed at the amount of modification and fabrication that's been required on my build.  It looks like yours with the non-native powertrain and new body tub is proving even more of a challenge.  It's looking great so far.  I spent the afternoon installing a RetroSound stereo and amplifier I got from Santa Claus. 

[spdljohn]

Let me know what you think about the retro sound stereo. That's the same kind I got. I'm a LONG way from being able to listen to tunes though. You're project looks like it's coming along great. You'll definitely be rolling before me.

[60Bubba]

I listened to the stereo (Model one) with only my rear speakers, and it sounded really great for what it is. With an amp it blasts plenty loud without distortion, but then I don't like my ears to bleed so others may not think it's loud enough.  Installation wasn't quite as straight forward as I'd hoped, but that may be because I have an aftermarket dash.  The hole in the dash is slightly too large for the trim piece, but I don't have an unmolested factory dash to measure for comparison.

 

I used a $45 Pyle Hydra amplifier.  It's 4 channel and waterproof.  I was planning to mount it on the bracket where the factory computer was located, but it's actually quite a bit smaller than that.  I'm just going to use double sided tape or command adhesive and mount it to the flat spot on top of the heater box. 

 

I also received a set of rear speaker wedges from Vertically Driven Products from Santa.  They wrap around the base of the roll bar and tuck in behind the front seats.  They fit a 6X9 speaker and have a cup holder on top. I got some discontinued  Infinity Reference speakers for the back and have another set on the way for the front.  I'll take some pictures of the setup today or tomorrow.

[spdljohn]

That would be great. I got some of the same vertically driven product speaker holders. Like the idea of using otherwise useless space for the rear speakers.

[Moses Ludel]

Terrific sound system, 60Bubba!  This can really improve quality of life...Great addition!

 

Spdljohn, on that hydraulic clutch rod, it looks like you're using the split lock washer as a "spring tensioner" for the clutch pushrod eye end.  Does the pushrod have a nylon or bronze I.D. bushing that's riding on the shoulder of your high tensile bolt?  For a clutch hydraulic master cylinder, the apply pressure is uniform and consistent at the pedal, so this should work.  You might consider spring wave washer(s) in place of the split ring lock washer.  Wave washers are often used in these kinds of applications.  Here is a listing at MSC Direct: http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Fasteners/Washers-Shims/Wave-Washers-Springs?navid=12108761&rdrct=wave+washer.

 

In looking for a wave washer illustration, I stumbled onto this catalog of hardware.  Check out the wave washers and also the very cool shoulder screws that might offer a hardware solution for certain applications:  http://www.sdp-si.com/estore/coverpg/hardware.htm.  Take a look at the other hardware available from this source, including shoulder screws.  Here's an MSC Direct offering for similar hardware: http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Fasteners/Bolts-Screws/Bolts/Shoulder-Screws-Stripper-Bolts?navid=12108828&rdrct=shoulder+bolts.

 

There are also studs with shoulders and threaded back sides for applications like your clutch pedal pushrod.  (The reverse of a shoulder screw.)  I like to study these industrial catalogs for hardware options.  McMaster-Carr is another one...

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Moses,

Thanks.  Ill take a look around locally and see if I can find any spring washers.  That will be more appropriate for what i was trying to accomplish with the lock washer.  

 

As far as your question, the hydraulic master cylinder does not have any kind of insert.  Just the eyelet straight on the 1/2" bolt shoulder.  See pic.

David

[Moses Ludel]

Umm...Well, that's no different than the typical Jeep OE clutch pushrod.  I grabbed 1989 YJ Wrangler as an example:

 

1989 YJ Wrangler Hydraulic Clutch Linkage.pdf

 

Note that there's no bushing on the OE pushrod eye to the clutch pedal stud.  This is a friction wear point over time, like you discovered with your CJ brake pedal.  (On that brake pedal and heim joint installation, the wear would stop if there's room to cut threads on the pedal stud's end and use a flat washer and top lock nut to secure the heim joint's center sleeve on the stud.)  Hydraulic clutch pressure is uniform, lighter force, which likely slows the wear at the clutch pedal stud.

 

You'll see that Jeep uses a wave washer and flat washer to sandwich this hydraulic clutch pushrod eye.  You're on the right track now...

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Got a few things done today.  

 

I have been working on getting the in tank fuel sending unit set up.  I did some research and for a normally aspirated engine to figure out how much fuel in Liters/Hr the engine will need you multiply 0.38-0.45 (BSFC = Brake specific fuel consumption) X projected HP.  My engine is around 325-350 HP.  So the math would tell me to get a fuel pump that will deliver around 140-150 LPH.   The stock YJ fuel sending unit wouldn't meet that requirement.  I have a pump that will deliver around 450 LPH but per our earlier conversation, that can have a downside.  So I found a walbro pump that will give me around 250 LPH and since I'm running 3/8" supply and return lines, the excess fuel will just dump right back into the tank, and that flow will provide enough psi at the fuel rail.

 

My stock cj7 tank was 15 gallons but it was roached out so I got a new 20 gallon tank from Genright.  The depth on that tank is 12".  The stock YJ sending unit I'm modifying is a little under 11" tall so I needed to modify it some.  Dropping the pump an extra inch was just a matter of getting a slightly longer piece of 3/8" fuel hose.  But the motor bracket that holds the motor in place is attached to the return line which is hard.  I cut the return line with tubing cutter and simply placed a 3/8" rubber hose and used radiator clamps to cinch it down.  But the problem now was that the motor was too "wobbly" for lack of a better term; there was no rigidity to hold it in one spot.

 

So I took the unit to my welder buddy and he welded on a piece of metal tubing to lengthen the return line and make it rigid once again.  To lengthen the float so the gauge would read correctly I welded on an extra inch piece so that the float would reach the bottom of the tank and not alter the full fuel reading.  While I was there I also had my welder TIG weld on the 3/8" bungs so I can connect my braided stainless steel fuel lines directly to the sending unit.

 

Next I had to make a new bracket to hold the motor in place.  I made this bracket out of a piece of 2" wide aluminum.  I used a drill to make numerous holes in the pattern of the bottom of the pump, knocked it out, and then used a dremel to soften up the edges.  Sandblasted it and put it in place.  Worked out well.

 

David

[spdljohn]

I also worked on finishing up the pedal/clutch/brake booster assembly.  The 3/8" to 1/2" thread inserts came in a couple of days ago.   I used red thread locker to secure the inserts into the new 1/2" spherical rod end I purchased from Summit.  I put in two inserts and have plenty of thread contact.  I had to trim down the 3/8" input rod into the booster.  I also had to use my angle grinder to take some of the paint off the stud on the pedal to get the rod end to go into place.  The problem I faced now was that the 1/2" rod end is so wide there was no way to hold the rod end onto the stud.  Originally there was a pin that held the eyelet in place.  So I ended up drilling a 1/4" hole down the length of the stud, running a tap in it, and securing the rod end in place using a stainless 1/4" bolt, washer, lock washer with a little blue thread locker.

 

I also found a spring washer to touch up the clutch eyelet per earlier conversations.

 

Got the pedal assembly and brake booster put back in place.....hopefully for the last time.  The Wilwood master cylinder required an insert to make the booster output rod contact the master cylinder actuator.

 

David

[spdljohn]

Ill be traveling this weekend so will post again early next week.  Hopefully the axles and suspension will come in next week and I can get this thing into a rolling chassis and start to make some headway.

Happy New Year.

David

[Moses Ludel]

Some quick observations...The fuel pump extension involved a lot of details.  The return hose is on the sectioned tube?  I ask because you definitely want "bubble flares" on the fuel pickup side tubes to prevent risk of seepage or loss of suction.  I use the bubble flare technique when mating any steel tube to hose.  This provides the best seal and also eliminates risk of blowing the hose off a straight piece of steel tubing when the hose is under pressure.

 

An example of a bubble flare can be seen at my number 4 to 6 illustrations at this article:  http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Fuel-Pressure-Requirements.html.  You'll get the idea.  I do not attach hose to straight tube sections.  If the hose is on the return, unrestricted flow side, and if the tubing is rigidly fixed in place, then the hose has no pressure at the clamps.  Though this hose will likely stay in place, I would have bubble flared the tube ends. 

 

Years ago, I stopped using worm gear clamps on fuel hose under pressure.  Instead, I use "EFI" type fuel hose clamps.  You will see these clamps at the magazine article's #11 photo and caption.  I get these clamps at NAPA.  I also get high pressure EFI fuel rated hose at NAPA and other sources as seen in this illustration.  Any hose used on the pressure side of your pump should be rated for high pressure fuel use.

 

On drilling the pedal stud for a 1/4" bolt, a 1/4" graded bolt is not much strength for pedal pressure.  Think of the pedal and joint side load and how much pressure any 1/4" bolt of any grade might take.  Imagine your foot on the brake hard, like when the engine stalls on a steep slope, and there's no brake booster pressure.  Will a 1/4" stainless bolt support that side load?  Or will the 1/4" bolt snap and allow the brake pushrod joint to slide off the stud?  The stakes are high; this is your brake pedal link.

 

I would also want assurance that the remaining pedal stud material is sufficiently strong with a hole drilled and tapped through its center.  Are you okay with the wall thickness of the drilled and tapped pedal stud?  I see that you shaved some additional metal from the stud's outer surface, further reducing the stud's wall thickness.

 

I commented earlier on alternatives for attaching this pushrod joint to the pedal.  Please refer back to our lengthy discussion on this heim/spherical joint installation at your forum topic: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/516-heim-joint-size-does-not-match-the-mounting-stud/.  I asked about drilling or pressing the factory stud/pin carefully from the pedal and suggested fabricating a graded stud that fits the 1/2" spherical joint center.  The stud would have an outer thread for securing the joint to the stud.  You'd use a suitable graded lock washer and nut or a graded top lock nut and hard washer.

 

If you have any doubt whatsoever about the stamina and strength of the existing pedal stud/pin and a 1/4" stainless bolt, pursue an alternative.  I have a number of ideas, some shared earlier in your other topic thread. (See link above.)  The brake pedal and pushrod are safety items...Feel free to ask questions.

 

The new joint and use of thread inserts, especially on a pushrod that presses toward the booster, should solve that issue.  When the pedal retracts, your booster pushrod must allow the booster's piston to retract fully.  Your pedal pushrod adjustment should allow the booster piston to retract fully when you release the brake pedal. 

 

It looks like the booster to brake master cylinder piston clearance is predetermined by the length of the short insert pin with the dished end.  Is that correct? 

 

You're making progress!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Moses

I will pull the unit out and put bubble flares on. The hose is on the supply side. This hose was already in place I just put a longer piece in and there were no bubble flares but it makes sense to have the, I will also pick up some fuel hose clamps and get high pressure hose.

David

[spdljohn]

Moses

Regarding the fuel line I've got braided stainless line to run from the tank to the engine. I know you said you like hard lines but I figured the hose would be easier to work with. Is braided stainless hose not going to work or not work well or only last for a few years? Remember this jeep won't see much off-roading.

Also regarding the fuel system, do I have to have an evaporative canister for the engine to run or run well or is this something I can do without?

Back to the brake pedal stud, funny thing was the center of that stud was already drilled out. In essence it was already hollow in the inside. I enlarged it slightly and tapped it out. Seems pretty stout. I'll put it through the ringer once I get it up and going.

David

[Moses Ludel]

David...You'll like the bubble flare technique.  Practice on some old steel tubing first.  You're only forming the partial first break as I illustrate at the article.  The bubble acts as a stop for the hose and clamp; the clamp gets positioned on the tubing flat, just inboard of the bubble.  This bubble's end shape also helps protect the hose from nicking on the inside, which can occur with a straight piece of hose.  Once you master the technique, you'll find yourself using the bubble flare regularly!

 

Note:  I have upgraded from the flaring tool in the illustrated article.  A Ridgid double flare tool does a better job and will last for years.  Here's the model as a kit:  http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/74779380?fromRR=Y.  The minimal kit is available at MSC Direct and outlets like Home Depot: http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06361000?CS_010=06361000&item=06361000&CS_003=7867724&src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test.  You need a tool that will grip on the tubing without chewing it up.  To prevent the tube from sliding as you form the flare, it is helpful to secure the holding jig in a 6" bench vise. 

 

The ultimate small shop tool for flaring brake and fuel tubing is this kit available from Summit Racing and elsewhere:  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-70081.  (Read comments and reviews.)  Just short of a hydraulic device, this lever arm fixture does a stellar job when you're building a complete brake tubing system.  I bought this tool set before it became "popular" and paid around $199, a great investment.  Using dies, this is perfect for blank tubing but not suitable for use in very tight quarters.  It's also wise to invest in a good tubing bender that will not kink or flatten tubing.  Smooth, "OEM looking" bend radii are attractive and functional. Steel 3/8" fuel tubing is not very easy to bend.  Stainless is even more difficult.

 

Stainless braided fuel hose, as long as it's rated for high pressure fuel use, will work fine here.  If exposed to UV or heat, this type hose does deteriorate faster, but that's not an issue with your CJ-7—as long as you keep the topside up!  Route the braided hose away from heat.  Inside the stainless braid, a heated hose becomes brittle and can rupture.

 

Note: There's is the phenomenon of pulsation vibration with solid tubing; some suggest that long runs of rigid tubing in a high pressure system can cause cavitation.  The balance for hard line systems is the use of tubing sections along the frame rails, with high pressure hose or braided stainless hose between the tank and frame, and the frame and engine.  This allows for flex and also provides room for adequate expansion.  Your system will work well with stainless braided hose; this provides reasonable give for the high pressure pump's fuel pulsation.

 

It does make a difference that the brake pedal stud/pin was originally hollow.  If you removed very little material with the drill and tap, the remaining issue is the bolt's tensile and yield strength.  Presumably, the pin has some hardness, it served as a wear surface originally.  How did it feel to tap the material?  Was the pin reasonably hard? 

 

Using the identification at the bolt head, do some research on the stainless bolt.  You should be able to find the tensile strength and yield strength of the bolt, check the manufacturer's materials description.  You want a hardened bolt, but equally important, you want a bolt with a high yield strength.  The pedal stud/pin must be high tensile, too.  Tapped threads need to be strong to hold up against the bolt thread stamina.

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

So I got back in town tonight and pulled out the fuel sending unit to make the improvements we discussed above.   Fortunately, the YJ sending unit already had a bubble flare on the supply side.  However, when I got the new fuel hose I did not get the submersible type which I understand there is a difference and that the submersible type will hold up better long term.  So I will get the correct type hose to put back on it and change out the hose clamps.  Here is a link to the submersible fuel hose.

 

http://www.napabeltshose.com/fuel-delivery-systems/submersible-hose

 

Moses, I looked at the EFI type clamps you referred to in your article.  What are your thoughts on the type I linked to below?  This is what came with the YJ sending unit that I originally had to cut off.  Are they even better than the ones you recommend?

 

http://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-16700010-Stainless-Steel-Clamp/dp/B008L59PMK/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1420328995&sr=1-2&keywords=3%2F8%22+stepless+ear+clamp

 

Also, sometimes I think the enemy of good is better.  I went to work on the brake pedal stud that neither one of us has been super confident in.  I used the cutoff wheel to cut off the stud and base from the pedal bracket.  Then I used a two jaw puller to press out the remainder from the brake pedal (so as not to have to disassemble the bracket and put it on my hydraulic press).  The stud was indeed drilled all the way through as I suspected.  After I got the rivet out of the pedal I thought I was going to be good to go with a 1/2" high strength bolt with a shoulder to hold the brake spherical rod end.  BUT to my surprise the hole where the rivet was pressed out measure 9/16" and not 1/2".

 

My plan is to get a 9/16" steel tube (hopefully with 1/2" inner diameter), weld a piece into the pedal bracket, drill it out slightly if I have to to accept the 1/2" bolt and secure it in place well with serrated flange bolts both sides.

 

Should work okay. 

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

Glad you shared the facts on the submersible fuel hose.  Many are building in-tank fuel supply systems...The link to details is very useful.  Thanks, David, others will benefit!

 

The clamp at Amazon is OEM type.  That type clamp is also very good for pressure hose; however, it should be installed with a special pliers made for this type clamp.  Folks improvise with diagonal side cutters, then flatten the mushroom shaped section with a flat machinist's hammer.  If you're practiced at that and do not cut the clamp metal with the dikes, this is an option.  I prefer the right tool, made for these clamps. The correct pliers will crush the sides evenly and flatten the bulged section.

 

I'm glad you decided to do the pedal pin properly.  Good start already...Here's the approach I'd likely take:

 

1) Select a 1/2" Grade 8 bolt long enough so that the thread-less portion of the bolt (the shank) just reaches through the spherical joint's center plus the thickness of the pedal.  The bolt's threads will stick out from the spherical joint.

 

Note: Grade 8 bolts are typically anodized and not zinc plated.  I avoid zinc plated hardware for welding, as the fumes are unhealthy.  You can even use alloy "black" socket head screws, they are typically Grade 8 and have no zinc or galvanizing.

 

2) Remove the head from this 1/2" diameter Grade 8 bolt.  (Cut through slowly with a chop saw to avoid overheating the metal.)

 

Note: As an option, if there's enough room, you can even leave the bolt head in place.  Run the 1/2" diameter bolt through the 9/16" hole, center the bolt with the hole, and weld the bolt head flats to the backside of the pedal.  Place a fillet weld around the bolt shank at the spherical joint side of the pedal to completely secure the bolt.  I would use TIG process on this fillet weld to eliminate risk of weld undercut on the bolt shank.

 

3) Have your weldor center and square up the bolt shank in the pedal hole (The 1/32" gap will be okay here.)  Align the bolt shank evenly with the inside edge...An option is to shorten the bolt shank slightly and countersink the bolt shank in the pedal hole; a plug weld can fill and join the bolt to the inside of the pedal.

 

4) Weld (TIG preferred) the bolt shank end to the inside of the pedal with either a bead around the bolt/pedal joint or a plug weld if the bolt shank is countersunk slightly.  For insurance, lay a uniform fillet bead on the spherical joint side of the pedal.  (TIG is optimal here to prevent undercutting the bolt shank at the weld bead edges.) 

 

5) The new stud (made from a Grade 8 headless bolt) will have its threaded end to accept your Graded washer and nut.  With proper weld penetration and proper cool down, this will be a thoroughly mated stud-to-pedal.

 

6) If necessary, you can shim the joint from the pedal to center the joint and rod with the booster piston.  Use a Graded flat washer and either a Graded lock washer and nut or a steel Grade 8 top lock nut to secure the spherical joint to the pedal stud.

 

7) Take step-by pictures and share with wide-eyed forum members and guests!

 

Glad you took these initiatives.  The hose is important.  The clamp is important.  Safe braking is important.  This is a steady learning curve!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

OK Moses, I think this is what you had in mind for the brake pedal stud.  After grinding off the paint from around the 9/16" hole on both sides, I used a 11/16" drill bit to slightly form the side of the hole facing the stud to ensure adequate weld penetration.  I went to the store and found 3 different lengths of grade 8 1/2" bolts.  As Moses alluded, I needed the bolt to have enough shoulder/shank to get through the pedal and most of the way through the rod end.  After I picked the correct length I measured to see how much of the extra length I could cut off.  I did this with the sawzall and then ran a die over it to make sure the threads at the end of the bolt were in good shape.

 

The Grade 8 bolts I bought were coated with yellow zinc.  I very lightly removed this with an angle grinder.  I understand there's some debate as to whether it's safe to breath the fumes if you weld with the zinc coating on; just watching out for my welders safety as good as he's been to me.

 

I ended up leaving the head on the bolt and having them weld on both sides of the pedal bracket.

 

When I took it to them they were considering whether to MIG or TIG.  They ended up TIG welding it but my impression was that of the 3 different guys that looked at it they each had a different opinion.  Had it done within a few minutes.

 

After lightly sanding the welded area to clean it up, I primed and painted it.  

 

I put the pedal bracket assembly and brake booster back on hopefully for the "final" time (this is the 4th or 5th "final" time I think).   I placed one of the wave spring washers on the stud first, then the spherical rod end, flat washer, lock washer, and 1/2" nut.  Probably need to get a few Grade 5 top lock nuts.  Could use one here I would think.

 

By the way, my new ARB old man emu leaf springs came in today.  Axles shipping from NC tomorrow, and remainder of OME suspension coming in Wednesday.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

David, this is the way to do the pedal.  You've bought assurance that the pedal and stud will be the strong link in the setup.  Your 11/16" chamfer with the 9/16" bore was brilliant, this kept the weld's crown lower without compromising the penetration or depth from the weld root to the crown of the weld.

 

I opt for TIG because the heat affected zone (HAZ) is narrower and TIG penetrates deeply.  There's less heat diffusion, too.  This helps maintain the integrity of the bolt's tensile and overall strength, which is substantial in this stud size. 

 

The 1/2" spherical joint is already bigger than the joint supplied with the brake booster system.  This should be very stout.  (A 5/8" joint would have been overkill and an awkward fit.)  If the welded part cooled correctly, you have a bulletproof brake pedal.  (TIG weldors* typically know metallurgy and best practices for cool down.)  Nice TIG work, leaving the head on the bolt provided a larger weld area on the inside of the pedal.  Note there is no undercut on the bolt shank thanks to TIG.  Penetration is really good with optimal fusion!

 

*Note: A "welder" is the welding machine.  A "weldor" is one who welds.  Most use the word "welder" to mean both though the grammatically correct statement would be,  "Your weldor does very nice welds with his TIG welder!"  Semantics.

 

Beautiful job, nicely finished.  I'm assuming the spring washer is compressed completely and just used as a shim in this case.  The lock washer looks flat, indicating a decent amount of torque on the nut.  As you share, a top lock would eliminate the need for a lock washer, although the current setup, if torqued sufficiently, should keep the heim/spherical joint center from rotating/creeping.

 

Yes, you now have a brake pedal to match that 325 horsepower LS 6.0L V-8 power!

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

That is a great looking fabrication job!  I'm glad I didn't have to go to those lengths to get my pedals set up.  Rigging the rod end clutch linkage was enough of a pain for me.

[spdljohn]

Question on the rear shackle hanger.  I got the Old Man Emu YJ conversion kit from Rocky Road in Utah.  Included in the kit was a beefed up rear shackle hanger.  The portion of the shackle hanger that sits against the bottom of the frame rail is flat.  But there is a "hump" for lack of a better term where the rear frame crossmember goes across the bottom of the frame. It is preventing the shackle hanger from being able to be flush against the frame rail.  Others have apparently noted this before as I found a company that makes new shackle hangers that have a portion notched out to account for this (see pic -- Crabtreetool.com).

 

Am I missing something?  Do I need to shave down or notch the new shackle hangar?  When I got the jeep the rear shackle hangers had been modified so Im not sure what stock is supposed to look like.

 

David

[60Bubba]

I just about hopped up to run out and take a picture of "stock" for you, then I remembered the glass shop still has the Jeep.  I'm starting to miss it...Good luck with your modification.  I'm thinking next year's Jeep money will go toward an OME suspension.  My current lift is pretty darn stiff, and I think a more compliant system might enhance my enjoyment of the Jeep (read, "The wife will be happier, therefore I will be happier.")

 

If Moses doesn't chime in with a high speed PDF picture to answer your question, I'll get some pictures tomorrow when I pick the CJ up.

[Moses Ludel]

Is there that much gap between the crossmember and frame?  Is there a twist in the crossmember?  The shackle mount looks similar to a shackle reversal for the front springs.

 

Here's the 1981-86 Jeep CJ OEM frame parts illustrations.  I also have a factory frame schematic from a service vantage.  I'm not sure whether either will help.  Case's photos of an actual CJ-7 frame will probably be more useful and detailed:

 

1981-86 Jeep CJ Frame and Attachments.pdf

 

See if this clarifies, the diagrams can be zoomed-in for more detail...

 

Moses

 

 

[spdljohn]

Brand new cross member, same gap on both sides. My pics are a little difficult to tell.

See pic...this is not my jeep but illustrates what I'm contending with. The rear frame crossmember is about 1/4" thick and prevents the shackle hanger from being flush against the frame.

Could insert 1/4 inch thick metal spacer between shackle hanger and frame same thickness as crossmember.

[Moses Ludel]

David...Curious to see where you're going with this one.  Can you C-clamp this hanger into position to show me what or how much is obstructing the fit?  Your "shim" idea could work as long as you create a uniform mounting point at each side of the vehicle.  Steel sheet metal plate comes in a variety of thicknesses and can be readily stamp-sheared to size.

 

I'm a weldor, so my first thought is to stitch weld the shim to the hanger, eliminating any possibility of shifting or loosening the mounting hardware.  Your bill at the welding shop must be well up there by now, and I hesitate to have you down there every other step of this project.  In my case, the welding machines are at my shop and within grasp.

 

I need to offer more instructional on welding.  These are great DIY projects if you make friends with the welding process.  This may be a simple MIG welding fix with your shim idea.  Mock the hanger up first, we'll discuss "best practices".

 

Moses   

[60Bubba]

OK, sorry for the delay, but here are the promised pictures of the rear shackle hanger on my Jeep.  My shackles are obviously not stock, so I don't know if my setup will be informative.  Let me know if other angles will help.

 

 

[spdljohn]

Thanks.  That is very helpful.  It looks like the hangers you have have a slight curve or relief to them (if Im seeing correctly) that allow the hangers to be bolted on, with the rear frame cross member between the hanger and the frame, and yet the hanger still sits flush against the frame elsewhere.  I really appreciate you taking those pictures and sending them over.  It confirms that I do in fact need to modify my hangers.

 

I think I've got a plan to get my hangers on and get them secured.  I should have that completed by tomorrow evening.  Got halfway done with the project tonight.

 

David

[spdljohn]

My old man emu suspension from rocky road outfitters in Utah (items laid to on the table in the pics) and my new Dana 44 front and rear axles both came in today.  I ordered my axles about 6 weeks ago from East Coast Gearing in Raleigh NC.  They have a pretty neat looking website and shop and have lots of stuff to drool over.  With the holidays they were running about 2-3 weeks behind their initial timeline.

 

I think the wait was worth it.  I bought new axles for a couple of reasons.  The main thing that prompted me to get new axles was the fact that up until 1982 (I believe; Moses correct me if I'm wrong) the CJ7 had a narrow track axle with a WMS (wheel mounting surface) to WMS width that is about 3-4" narrower than the wide track axles.  My main goal was to add stability and make it safer to drive, especially for when my kids get to driving it (a long long long time from now).  I also believe that with the wide track axles the front axle is slightly wider than the rear.

 

Another reason was obviously I had a new power plant and needed to axles to handle the power.  I was initially planning on trying to make do with the stock axles but after I figured in the amount of time and money I would spend to change to one piece rear axles, replace bearings, seals, change gear ratios etc it just didn't make sense.  Plus I like the idea of 4 wheel disc brakes.

 

I understand dana 44 axles are not necessarily heavy duty but will certainly handle the road driving that I will be doing.  Both the axles as well as the ax15 tranny I bought have heavier than stock components though.

 

The axles came with Ubolts and ubolt plates as well as a few other items (laid out on floor in pics), such as the brake cables.  The ubolts and plates that came with the ome suspension seems heavier duty and so I will likely go with those.

 

Ill try to get the suspension and axles set up this weekend.   Im going with the front shackle reversal so will have pics of that process too.

 

The only thing that broke on the axles during shipping was the vent tube; no big deal.

 

David

[60Bubba]

Wow.  Again, the depths of your project impress.  I love the idea of the new axles and the OME suspension.  Since I already have the one piece axles in my AMC20 rear, I think I'll leave things alone for the meantime.  The next money will go for A/C, then the suspension, I think.  Good luck, and keep up the amazing work.

 

Case

[Moses Ludel]

More than adequate axles on each of your Jeep CJ-7 projects.  The AMC 20 with one-piece axle shafts is bulletproof.  The Dana 44s set up this way should be equally stout...Nice equipment!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

I was able to finish up the rear shackle hangers today.  I had a piece of steel sheet that matched the thickness of the rear frame cross member.   I measured out an appropriate piece, cut it, and welded it to my rear shackle hangers.  I didn't weld it on all four sides, just the front and back.  It's going to be bolted in place anyhow.  I grinded it down to clean it up and painted it.  Looks pretty good I think.

 

I have a stick welder but for this project I just used my 110 volt Lincoln mig welder.  It can be set up for gas shielding which I have never done.  I just use flux core wire and it splatters everywhere necessitating cleanup.

 

I took a pic of my oem stock shackle hangers and you can see there is a mild relief or curve to compensate for the rear frame crossmember.  The new shackle hangers are much beefier.

 

I also got my old tires/wheels mounted onto the new axles.  I would like to get new tires/wheels towards the end of the project.   The nice thing about keeping the old wheels for now is they are 33X12.50 which is the same size I would like to have on the jeep so this will give me the chance to see if I need to go down a tire size with the new suspension and 1" body lift.

 

My dad helped me today some in the shop.  He would buy wrecked cars, rework them and sell them to put himself through school when he was younger but he never tore anything down to bare frame.  I think he had a good time.  

 

We got the rear leaf springs partially hung and got the rear axle rolled into position.  I wasn't able to finish up the rear axle as my new suspension didn't come with 7/16" bolts which are necessary for the rear shackle hangers.  I'm going to go tomorrow and get Grade 8 bolts for this.  Also the new shackle hangers require 3 bolts as opposed to the OEM which requires two.  I did drill these additional holes today.  The third bolt goes through the front most hole in the hangers.  Fortunately the frame has a hole to allow access to place a bolt on that new bolt.

 

More to come tomorrow.

 

David

[60Bubba]

David,

 

Looks like solid progress.  I honestly have no idea exactly what lift is on my Jeep, but my guess is it is a combination of a 2.5" spring lift and the longer shackles, or about a 4" total lift.  On road, I have had no trouble with my 33"X12.5" Mickey Thompsons.  No off-road work yet, so i can't comment on that.

[Moses Ludel]

Nice approach on those hangers, David.  You did fine with the flux-core welds, and that's enough to keep the plates from shifting.  You're right that the bolts can center up and hold the pieces in place now.  I would add some 242 (Blue) Threadlocker to the threads in addition to the locking hardware on these bolts.  Good insurance for hardware under constant pounding.

 

Steady progress here.  Your dad looks very pleased, too!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Big day today.  She's a rolling chassis standing on her own 4 feet!  Talk about a good feeling.

 

I finished up first thing this am working on getting the rear axle put in place.  When I ordered the rear axle I told them I would have a 3-4 " suspension lift so they set the leaf spring perches so that the rear axle points up towards the back of the transfer case to minimize the angle the drive shaft will have to assume.  No major fitment issues with the rear axle.  After I had already hung the rear shackle hanger and hung the leaf spring from the front hanger I realized that the fuel tank skid plate was impeding my ability to put the nuts on the bolts as they went through the leaf spring eyes and shackle.  I had to take off the rear shackle hanger and run the hardware so that the bolt head is towards the fuel tank....no big deal just a hassle.

 

The front axle was a little more complex mainly because of the shackle reversal kit from M.O.R.E. that I incorporated.  I bought the kit that requires drilling a 1.5" hole through the frame.  Made me a bit nervous but it went great.  To install, the front brackets are fairly easy.  They pretty much just bolt onto existing holes in place of the stock equipment.  The shackle reversal kit does require flipping the front springs around so that the front of the spring is towards the back of the jeep and vice versa.

 

To determine where to drill through the frame for the shackles, you attach the leaf spring to the front hanger then elevate the lift spring until the rear eye is 1" away from the bottom of the frame (turns out 3 shackles are equal to one inch...provided a nice spacer to keep the distance constant).  Then you place one of the shackles on the leaf spring and measure 60 degrees (make sure jeep frame is as level as possible) and make a mark on the frame.  Next drill through with 1.5" hole saw.   Had to be careful to be sure to go straight through the other side and not drill off center from the original hole on the outside of the frame.  Used plenty of oil while drilling.

 

I placed the large tube inserts through the frame and welded it in place myself.  To weld this I used my "buzz box."  My mig welder being only 110 volt doesn't have the power to penetrate deep enough for a job this important.  While I was at it I also went ahead and welded the engine frame horns at the top like Novak recommends.  This was cleaned up with the grinder and painted with POR15.

 

I also went ahead and bought a kit of stainless steel single horn clamps with the clamp pliers mainly for the fuel line.  Never know when these will come in handy again.  I finished up with the fuel sending unit and got it dropped back in the tank.  It was sitting around just waiting to get knocked off the workbench and get broken.

 

Tomorrow I should be able to get the new power train dropped into place.   I have 35 years of grime gunk and grease to clean off my transmission crossmember; once its clean I'll probably sandblast it and paint it.  Also tomorrow I'm gonna go back over all the hardware on the suspension and torque it to spec.

 

Lots of progress = lots of pics today.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

Substantial progress, David!  Very involved, your work is thorough and conscientious...

 

When you get the powertrain and body in place, the rear driveline angle can be confirmed.  As a keynote, if the pinion is perched in nearly a straight line to the transfer case output, the axle builder assumes you're running a custom CV driveline:  CV-double Cardan joint at the front of the rear driveline and a typical Spicer-type cross joint at the pinion flange.  I can't tell from your photo angles just how "angled upward" the rear axle pinion faces.

 

We'll talk about driveline angles.  Start a new topic for that one, it's a universal theme...

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

I had another good very productive day.  Seeing 60Bubbas jeep get finished lit a fire!

 

First thing I did today was scrape the grease and grime off the transmission cross member with a putty knife.  Then I used gasoline (don't tell the safety police....just used a rag dipped in gasoline) to clean the remaining grease off along with then giving it a bath in the parts washer.  I tried sandblasting it in my cabinet which is filled with glass beads but I needed something with more bite so I took it outside and used my sandblaster on wheels from tractor supply filled with 30/60 black diamond blasting media to take the paint and rust off.  There were a few dents but they banged out easily with the hammer.

 

The new old man emu suspension lift came with drops for the transmission cross member so I blasted these in the cabinet and put a coat of primer on them.  While I was at it I blasted the crossmember bar that goes under the engine (not sure what to call this).  It still fits even with the new engine. 

 

I also bought a MORE steering box bracket and new steering box (went with fixed ratio...supposed to be better for on road driving).  The MORE steering box is supposed to shift the steering box forward 1".  Good thing because the shackle reversal moves the axle forward about an inch to allow room for it to move back when encountering obstacle.  East coast gearing also said its good to move the steering box forward with front dana 44 axle to prevent the pitman arm and steering rod from binding.  Hope this steering bracket will move it forward enough between those two concerns.

 

I've got a can of red POR 15 coming this week for these types of items....just to paint them a different color and set them off a little.
 

The big thing that happened today was I got the engine mostly set in place.  By mostly I mean I got the two front engine mounts bolted in place.  Right now the floor jack is supporting the rear of the engine/transfer case.  I used my john deere engine hoist to lift it into place.  Not the heaviest load its ever lifted but probably the most precious!

 

If anyone's interested, here's a link to the installation instructions for the motor from Novak.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/cj5_cj7_80-86_swap.htm

 

Didn't have any problems at all.  Talk about pucker factor......didn't like having the new engine hanging in the air.

 

Now that the engine is set in place the shackles on the front have assumed a more normal looking angle.

 

This week I plan on running the brake and fuel lines and mounting up the new steering box.  

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

Looks like a nearly drivable chassis now...Like your detail work, tedious but valuable. 

 

Fully understand the engine install moments, have been there with projects that made it to the SEMA Show, sometimes with the body in place, fully detailed and the engine hanging on an Oberg engine tilt! 

 

Today there are some very cool engine tilt and alignment tools.  The cable and ratchet Oberg mechanism was primitive by comparison but it got the job done, even with iron big-block engines...Years later, I appreciated my John Deere "engine lift", too!

 

What do you think of the Black Diamond abrasive?  Compared to conventional glass bead (often broken from shards of auto glass)?  Have you fiddled with walnut shell? 

 

I use primarily glass bead but would like to try a soda blaster for aluminum, much nicer finish on the softer varieties of aluminum or carburetor pot metal.  I usually save aluminum parts clean up for the very end of the glass bead's life, when the bead is so powdered that it looks like bicarbonate of soda!

 

You did a great day's work, David...Nice photos as usual!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Moses,

 

I have an 85 gallon compressor with two stage pump so I have plenty of air pressure.  I have my blasting cabinet that I really enjoy.  I bought this about a month ago for this project.  I keep it filled with glass beads.  I need to change out the glass beads as they have been in there almost since the beginning.  I made the mistake of first filling the cabinet with aluminum oxide which was MESSY.  Black powder everywhere.  I didn't leave that in long.

 

The worn out glass beads weren't getting through on the transmission crossmember.  There was a fair amt of pitting on the metal so I needed more bite.

 

I used my canister blaster to do the job.  I had a bag of 20grit black diamond which clogged up the tip.  I emptied that and used the 40/60 grit which worked much better.  It is very aggressive but did this job well; in fact more aggressive than any other media I've used before.  I understand black diamond is used in heavy duty sandblasting jobs (ships, tanks, trains, etc).  I wasn't too worried about a pretty finish because it's under the car but also because my experience with POR 15 is it does a very nice job of flowing and smoothing itself out.

 

I fully agree with your sentiment though that if you're going for a smooth finish, glass beads do a great job.  I have not used walnut shell -- where does it rank in terms of aggressive vs smooth finish?

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

David...Sounds like you found the right media for your needs!  Walnut shells, though considered "softer", are very effective.  My reference to carburetor bodies stems from mechanically rebuilding classic vehicles, including pot metal and aluminum bodied carburetors, wanting an original and "new" finish without the need for polishing.  When you use glass bead 40-60 grit or so on that kind of material, the results can be undesirable, often "pitting" the surface and leaving it in need of polishing.  Aside from being very time consuming, polishing is too bright for some applications...Here's some info on walnut shell media:  http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/WS.html.  The contemporary carburetor body alternative is soda blasting.

 

Worn out glass beads, as I hinted, can actually be handy.  This pulverized material will cut lightly and clean, without pitting surfaces.  Glass is comparatively inexpensive for heavy automotive use, always effective when fresh out of the bucket.  It gradually loses effectiveness as the material gets slammed against metal.  For a while, you can bolster used glass bead's cutting ability by adding fresh grit if necessary.  Once you try this for a while, you find those "magic" mixtures that work best for a given application.

 

I use T-P Equipment blasting cabinets, and the company's carbide nozzle tips hold up very well.  Frankly, even with chores like you have depicted, I've never worn out a carbide tip.  That's certainly not true with the softer steel nozzle tips!  Step up here...

 

From a safety standpoint, I had a HEPA filtration system on my big blasting cabinet, and now I use a Ridgid shop vacuum to evacuate dust from the current, smaller cabinet.  For preserving finer glass and the powdery material, I insert a vacuum muffler/filter at the inside of the cabinet in the vacuum outlet tube.  This acts as a barrier and keeps the powerful Ridgid vacuum from sucking all the airborne glass out of the cabinet during blasting!  If also keeps from filling up the vacuum's bag with heavier glass bead.  Yes, I always use vacuum bags.  This blasting debris, rust, scale and automotive who-knows-what doesn't need to be handled or breathed.

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

When I set out to design my brake line/system I bought a couple of rolls of stainless 1/4" brake line and a flaring kit.  When they sent the axles the rear axle was already plumbed with 3/16" hard line ready to accept a T fitting and the brake extension lines they included.  When I started doing some more research I found out that 3/16" hard line is the most common size for new brake systems.  So I decided instead of having to buy multiple adapters to reduce from 1/4" to 3/16" I purchased a couple of rolls of 3/16" stainless line and fittings; it is supposed to come in tomorrow.

 

Today I took off the original sway bar from the original front axle assembly as well as some additional front fender support bars, cleaned, sandblasted and primed them.  The red POR15 paint came in yesterday.  Not sure how it's going to look to have a few select items painted in red but I'm gonna try it.  I painted the transmission cross member and drop brackets as well as the steering box support and engine cross frame support in red.  This POR 15 is good stuff.  Good coverage and even though I brushed it on it smooths out nicely.

 

Moses, take a look at my photos.  Regarding the fuel lines I was going to run them up the inside of the right side of the frame, between the rear shock and the frame securing with rubberized stainless clamps.

For the brake lines I was going to run them up the left inside frame again between the shocks and the frame. My new brake system will not have a proportioning valve because it's disc brakes all around.

What are your thoughts on the proposed routes for the lines?

 

David

[60Bubba]

That POR-15 is lookin' good.  Are you going with red for the body paint?  You may have said early on, but I don't remember specifics. I'm kind of wishing I'd selected POR-15 for the frame.  I heard it was messy, but I think it would probably have been tougher than what I ended up with.  Oh well, something for the next frame off, right?

[Moses Ludel]

The red is really hot, I like it!  I'm partial to red, our Ram truck is red, it draws attention, my previous projects and magazine vehicles have been red—I'm biased!

 

With the brake pipes and fuel hoses, think in terms of off-road use.  You'll want these lines protected and away from harm as much as possible.  If you run lines atop the rails, beware of clearances between the body and frame. 

 

The typical 'factory' approach is along the inside of the frame rails as you propose.  Keep in mind moving parts, exhaust heat and routing, these kinds of concerns.  The clamps will work, make sure any rubberized material is designed for durability.  Some clamp rubber will oxidize or deteriorate quickly, especially on the underside of a vehicle...

 

Your stainless brake piping should last forever.  Did you get the heavy-duty flaring tool?  Make sure you de-burr and remove any rough end material from the tubing after flaring, and blow lines through with clean (dry) compressed air.  If there is any residue on or inside tubing, use denatured alcohol for cleaning then blow out lines thoroughly with clean, compressed air.  Make sure you do "textbook" double-flare ends—with the flare nut on the tubing first!

 

As a note on brake tubing for an off-road 4x4, I always use "armor-guard" or wire wrapped brake tubing at the axle housings.  This is a factory measure, see your original brake lines for ideas.  Did your aftermarket rear axle come plumbed with armor-guard tubing?

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

I thought about running the lines on top of the tram. O am putting a one inch body lift on which would allow the room. My may proceed that direction.

The axle did not come with the brake lines wire wrapped (see photo). Unfortunately they already have the flare nuts on them.

By the way is inverted flare the same thing as double flare?

David

[Moses Ludel]

David...Inverted flare is the tubing end, nut and seat shape.  Double flare is what we do to the end of a steel brake pipe.  While copper tubing under your kitchen sink is only single flare, steel brake and fuel pipe requires double flaring to prevent risk of leaking or splitting under pressure and vibration.  This is a safety design that has been with us since the earliest hydraulic brake systems. 

 

After sliding the new flare nut into place on the straight tubing, you double flare the tubing end.  This is several steps that begin with the first or "bubble" break.  This then folds into a triangle shape.  The final step is the compression of the outer flare into the inner inverted flare.  This should be a snug compression. 

 

When you install freshly formed inverted flare tubing, be sure to secure the fittings tightly to seat the tubing flare firmly onto the fitting seat, caliper seat or wheel cylinder seat.  This does not require extreme force but does need to be a tight fit.  In torque terms, if you're using a flare nut wrench or socket (looks like a crow's foot only for flare nut use), a late Jeep TJ Wrangler's OE rear axle wheel cylinder tube attaches to the wheel cylinder at 12 ft. lbs. torque.  I prefer 15 ft. lbs. on new 3/16" tubing, especially with stainless steel tubing, followed by a torque recheck after the tubing has set for a few minutes.

 

Always check for leaks under pressure when you have bled the brakes.  New tubing or new cylinders and fittings sometimes take retightening to fully match and seat the inverted flare tubing to the seats.

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Got it.  By the way, I typed my previous post on my iPad....many errors....sorry.  

 

Got my fuel lines secured most of the way tonight.  Installed the Holley fuel filter as well.  Used Permatex high temp fuel resistant thread sealant to secure the 3/8 to 6N adapter into the fuel filter.  I am using aeroquip PTFE fuel line.  Here is a link to a good article on the different flexible fuel lines available.  http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-1101-performance-fuel-hoses/#__federated=1

 

Gonna work on running the brake line this weekend.  Put the second coat of red POR 15 on various parts.  Also ordered my new drive shafts from Tom Wood out in Utah.  Got a double cardan at the transfer case for the rear.  Got increased travel in the slip yoke for the front since I have the shackle reversal.  Front shaft is going to have 8-9 inches of travel.

 

If everything goes as planned, brake lines run this weekend, steering box mounted up and could possibly get the body mounted back on by the end of the weekend.  

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

Very clean fuel line installation, David.  Great look, too!  That fuel filter is rated for the high fuel pump pressure, right?

 

As for driveline angles with a CV rear driveshaft, the front joint (a double Cardan CV) has self cancelling joint angles.  The rear, single Cardan joint requires a near zero degree angle at the rear axle pinion.  You do not want a zero degree angle, though!

 

With a CV driveshaft, I strive for 1.5-2.0 degrees of rear joint angle measured with the full body weight in place and the vehicle at curb weight.  This minor angle will keep the needle bearings rotating in the single cross rear U-joint.  If set at a true "0" degrees, the joint's bearings will not rotate, and the U-joint will wear out quickly from a static driving load.

 

Here is my article on a leaf spring lift install and setting up a rear CV driveline:  http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Moses-Ludel-How-to-Installing-a-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Long-Arm-Suspension-Lift.html.  See illustrations 22-24.

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Got my transmission crossmember mounted back up.  The old man emu suspension came with drops for the crossmember.  The new power train and ax15 tranny came with a mount .  I wasn't real happy with where that new mount fell on the stock crossmember but a quick email and pic to novak confirmed it was in the right position; one of the rubber bushings falls right on the beginning of a slope.  Guess it will be okay.  Can say now the power train is fully installed in the jeep; no longer supported by floor jack.

 

I reinstalled the crossmember bar that goes between engine frame horns.  I'm a little worried about how tight the fit is; not much room to the bottom of the oil pan.  Will watch in time and modify or build something else if it looks like it's rubbing.

 

I ran the rear brake line.  Got a rubber brake hose with Tee fitting already installed to go down to rear axle.  Built a bracket to hold this in place.  The new brake line is 3/16" stainless steel.  Bought a flaring kit and tubing bender and I think I did pretty good for my first time. I ran the fuel lines on the inside of the frame but I ran the brake line on top of the frame.  The only disadvantage I could think to this is to remove it I would have to remove the body; gonna "overdo" the number of clamps I use on the top of the rail to prevent rattling.

 

Got the sway bar and links put back in place; a new bushing kit really tightens things up.

 

[spdljohn]

The big thing I was fretting over this week was how the pitman arm/drag link/tie rod would work.  As I mentioned earlier the dana 44 in the front and the 1.25" thick drag link and tie rod mean that the steering box had to be moved forward 1" per east coast gearing to prevent binding of the elements.  On top of that I installed a shackle reversal kit which also repositions the axle one inch forward.  I installed a MORE heavy duty steering box bracket which moves it forward 1.25".  You can see my dilemma.  

 

As it turns out when I bought the jeep it had a dropped pitman arm with 4" of drop (the old man emu suspension has about 3.5" lift).  This dropped pitman arm has a center to center distance of 5" as opposed to stock flat cj7 pitman arm which is an inch longer.  The dropped pitman arm consequently increases my turning radius by not allowing the front wheels to turn as far but in my case it's a necessary trade off.  But it couldn't have worked out better.  My drag link is just about parallel to tie rod with no binding.  Should prevent bump steer nicely.  Gonna mark the drag link and take it to the weldor to weld in the new tie rod end.

 

The new tie rod end for the drag link is larger than the stock CJ7 one.  East coast gearing let me "borrow" a reamer to ream out the pitman arm.  Worked great; tie rod end fits like a glove.

 

The MORE steering box bracket is pretty easy to install.  Requires removing a portion of the front frame cross member to allow the box to move forward.  Also requires drilling an extra hole in the top of the same cross member to allow for a third bolt.

 

In anticipation of reinstalling the body this weekend I turned the body on its side, removed some of the lineX overspray and freed up and tapped out the body mount bolts.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

David...A subtle advantage of that reaming job on the pitman arm is to get rid of any powder coating in the tapered seat of the pitman arm.  This is a concern, as many install the arm with powder coating or paint coating the tapered seat, only to discover later that the ball stud has "loosened" in the pitman arm.  For any steering linkage or ball-joint that uses a tapered seat to ball stud fit, installers should remove any paint or powder coating from the contact areas.  These parts require a metal-to-metal, secure fit. 

 

Note: I also remove paint and powder coating where the nut seats.  This can be done carefully to maintain an attractive finish if the part(s) have been powder coated by the manufacturer.  An alternative that I prefer for steering knuckles and linkage is to install and final torque these parts as bare metal, then mask off and paint the linkage and related parts after hardware is securely fastened.  It's easy to see the importance of these measures: Imagine your big tires and the steering linkage loads and angles.  Powder coating or paint cannot support these kinds of side loads;  the torque settings on hardware could quickly loosen.  

 

Make sure that the pitman arm and gear are on their absolute center (straight ahead) position with the wheels/tires pointed straight forward.  This will prevent risk of jamming the steering gear against its end stops.  Be sure to set your steering knuckle stops to prevent the steering gear from hyperextending itself at either the left or right turn extremes.  It's important that the gear not be forced to its steering extremes.

 

You also need to torque the pitman nut to specification without jamming the steering gear against its left or right extremes.  Center the sector in the gear.  If you have an air wrench/gun with a reliable torque output, use it.  Once the nut is secure to nearly its final torque setting, you can verify or final torque the nut with a torque wrench.  Make sure the front tires are fully weight loaded.  With a load on the tires, the pitman arm and sector should not rotate much as you confirm or set final torque.  Let the parts set after final torque, then recheck the torque.

 

Note: An alternative to this approach, one that I prefer, is to set the pitman nut's torque with the pitman arm supported in a large vise.  Insert the steering gear assembly, with its sector turned to center, into the pitman arm's splines.  Install the lock washer if required, and tighten the pitman/sector nut to the final torque setting.  Let the steering gear and pitman assembly set for several minutes, then recheck torque...Holding the pitman arm securely in a vise gets complicated if there is powder coating on the arm.  Also, in your case, the gear is already in the chassis. 

 

You've advanced a long way in a short period of time!  Great that all of the aftermarket parts came together like this...Keep us posted!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

That's good information Moses.  I just got through repainting the end of the pitman arm today after I messed up the paint during reaming.  Because of your post I'm going to remedy that tomorrow before putting it back on the jeep.

 

I got the body mounted today.  Was not that difficult.  Currently it's only sitting on 4 body mounts; two front and two rear.  I'm not sure I like the additional one inch body lift.  I think it's too high for practical daily road driving.  I also have a prothane body mount kit without any lift.  I think I'm going to put that one on.  The old man emu suspension looks like it will allow for the 33X12.50 tires to fit okay.

 

There's not much room between the firewall and the back of the engine though.....tight fit.

 

David

[60Bubba]

David,

 

Everything is looking good.  I'm with you on the body lifts.  I guess they make sense if you need the clearance, but I prefer the stock body to frame fit.  I have a bone-crushing SkyJacker lift on mine.  I would guess it's about 4" total.  The shackles are aftermarket; Warrior Products or something similar.  I think they probably add an inch of lift, as they seem to be about 2" longer than what I remember the stock shackles on my last CJ.

 

Are you using the OME 2.5" YJ suspension with a conversion kit for the front springs?  I've heard really great things about OME, and I'd love it if I could fit my 33X12.5" tires under the Jeep with just 2.5" of lift. Let me know how it all fits.

[spdljohn]

Two steps forward and 1 3/4 back!.  Had to take the body back off.  Once the body was mounted I could see that the rear bumper was too close to the body and wouldn't allow for the spare tire carrier to swing out of the way.  To take the rear bumper off I had to lower the gas tank to get to the bolts.  To lower the gas tank I had to take the body off....one of the carriage bolts had stripped out in the hole in the rear frame cross member....that's why the body had to come off to allow access to the bolts.

 

Probably best in the long run as I wanted to swap out the one inch body lift mounts with the no lift mounts.  Looks like I'll still have plenty of room for the 33X12.50s.  Still looks pretty tough and high without the body lift.

 

So then the dilemma was how to move the bumper back a little bit and get it away from the body.  It is attached to the rear frame crosmember with 8 3/8" bolts in 4 locations.  I used 1/4"X3 inch wide stock.  The rear frame crossmember is about 3" tall so I cut 8 pieces 2 3/4" long and doubled them up....welded two pieces together to provide 1/2"X2.75"X3" pieces.  I then used my drill press to drill out the holes matching the back of the bumper bolt holes.  I painted them with a can of truck bed coating I had laying around.  Take a look....turned out good....solid.....and the spare tire carrier swings open with no problem.

 

Not sure what the genesis of this issue was but possible when the weldor cut off the old rear frame crossmember and welded on the new one it was positioned a little far forward.

 

Also, the new drive shafts from Tom Wood came in last week.....I got those put on the jeep on Friday.

 

David

[spdljohn]

Today I worked on the brakes.  I bought a wilwood manual proportioning valve just in case the rear brakes tended to lock up.  It came with a slick mounting bracket and the lines to go from the master cylinder to the valve.  The valve has two inputs and three outputs.....one of the outputs directly below the valve knob is for the rear brakes.  There are two outputs for the front brakes....if you choose you can split the left and right front brakes at the valve or just have one output and split them downstream.

 

I twisted the rear brake line around a tube of caulk before bringing it up to the valve.  This coil will allow for me to lift the body down the road if I choose to.

 

Ill run the front brake lines later this week.

 

I ran the braided stainless lines for the Bosch hydroboost system.  I attached a pic of the plumbing diagram.  Basically it goes power steering pump to the brake booster to the steering box input.  From the steering box there is a tee....one return line goes back to the power steering pump and one line goes back to the brake booster.  The only rubber line I have in this system is a short 2-3" run from the tee to the power steering pump return line.  Secured lines with some clamps to the frame.

 

I mounted the new steering column and steering shaft so that I could see how all the lines would tie in together.  I had to cut out a notch of the frame crossmember above the steering box to allow for the 90 degree angle an fitting to hook into the steering box supply port.....this is because the steering box had been moved forward with the MORE steering box bracket.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

David...Sorry to see the setback with the tub removal and the spare tire mount.  The work looks great!  Brake and steering systems are state-of-the-art, complemented by your thorough installation!

 

How much spacing do you have between your brake tubing "coil" and the headers?  Are you far enough away to prevent fluid boil?  I'm unable to gauge the distance from the photo angles. 

 

You're really making progress here, watch out, this Jeep CJ-7 will be heading out the driveway soon!  Terrific photo documentation, too...

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Moses,

without measuring Im guessing it's about 4 inches away.  Do you think that's good enough?  

[Moses Ludel]

It would seem so...If you have an infrared heat probe or can borrow one, it would be smart to check the temp around the exhaust in general and especially the surface temperature of the brake pipe after a "heat soak" (underhood heat with engine idling and limited air flow like when parked).  This would also simulate what you experience while trail crawling, especially when the engine load increases and horsepower gets tapped...Muffler shops prefer a minimum of two fingers' width, more wherever possible, of exhaust system heat dissipation space downstream from the engine.

 

Headers, which are just outboard of the engine's exhaust ports, give off far more heat than the downstream exhaust system.  Areas of biggest concern are plastic fuel tanks, fuel and brake hoses and pipes, power steering hoses and painted surfaces.  These areas need special consideration and safe, proper clearance from the exhaust system.  Plastic melts and hoses will bake and fail.  Your brake pipe spacing of four inches from the headers may be enough. Testing with an infrared temperature probe or gun can help determine safe exhaust spacing. This tool is very useful for automotive diagnostics, from heating and air conditioning or cooling system checks to exhaust system and engine hot spot tests.

 

Years ago, I tested tubular headers that had been aluminum flame-sprayed.  (The chrome was glass bead blasted from the headers before coating.)  This treatment dropped the header surface temperature considerably and allowed safe spark plug changes on a Chevrolet small-block stroker 383 V-8 several minutes after engine shutdown—not a half hour or more later!  At the 2014 SEMA Show, I filmed a DEI header wrapping lesson.  For those interested, it's helpful to see this done properly:  http://www.4wdmechanix.com/DEI-Demonstrates-How-to-Wrap-Exhaust-Headers.html.

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

I knew progress would slow down some now that the body is on....most of the "big work" like suspension power train etc is done.  Now the work gets somewhat tedious.  Been working on a few odds and ends.  Got the emergency brake pedal and lines installed.  The rear axle came with two new "rear" e brake lines.  I ordered the new parking brake cable to go from the pedal to the equalizer.

 

I broke down and bought a new welding machine....a Lincoln 216 220 volt with argon/co2 tank.  I cut the drag link to length, tapered the end with the grinder and welded the insert in myself.  I think it looks pretty good.  I'm pretty good at making flat straight welds look pretty but this was tricky because of the round shape requiring constant hand position changes to stay perpendicular.  Moses....dont laugh at my "welding table."  Once the jeep is finished I've got a list of welding projects...first on the list is a proper welding table.  Absolutely no comparison from flux core mig welding with the 110 volt machine and the new one....should have done this earlier.

 

Another time consuming task was running the new front brake lines.  Trying to get around all of the lines that are already in place required some planning.  I bought some new flexible brake lines from napa warehouse....they are just GM calipers so they looked these up under a 99GM 3/4 ton pickup.  The flexible lines came with the brackets which I mounted to the outside of the frame.  I built a couple of brackets to hold the junction between my hard line and the flexible lines....I'll paint these later.  

 

Moses...you mentioned stainless steel tubing didn't flare very easily....you weren't kidding.  My flaring tool isn't holding up very well.  After all the connections were made I "bench bled" the master cylinder and then used my vacuum bleeder to bleed the system.  I have a good solid pedal.  Had a couple of minor leaks at a couple of junctions.  Seems that loosening those up and then torquing them back down took care of the leaks.

[spdljohn]

Today I had to cut the hole for the fuel filler.  I used the old body to measure and make a cardboard template which I then cut out and transferred to the new body.  I used my dremel tool with a cutting wheel (or three) to cut the hole out.

 

I mounted the battery box, which required loosening and moving out the way the heater.  I also started running the fuel lines up along the firewall and inching them closer to the EFI rail.  

 

Moses,  I've got 3 inches from the exhaust header to the fuel line...is that enough?

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

David (spdljohn), first off, congratulations on the Lincoln 216 Welder!!!  Great machine, I can already see confidence building in your welds.  The beveling you did was essential and created good burn-in and a penetrating fillet here.  I'm guessing you used ER-70S (either -2 or -6, S-2 comes with most new welders) for filler wire, likely 0.035".  This is 70,000 (70 ksi) tensile with typically 58 ksi yield strength depending upon the source, a good choice for this weld.  The sleeve insert makes this piece safer, as it's really not an end-to-end butt weld with the insert support.  The insert end should have been a semi-press fit into the tube. 

 

Your welds penetrate well and have a nice crown, which is the best indicator of both the penetration and fill wire.  Once you become familiar with the MIG weld depths (cross-sectional) at various settings and metal thicknesses, you'll see very consistent crown heights.  Practice whenever you have scrap metal on hand, and it's perfectly fine to practice with flat weld position initially.  You'll neither want nor need to grind down weld crowns, your welds will be clean and well shaped enough to leave them exactly as you lay them down.  That's the goal...The machine's own chart for metal thickness and voltage/amperage, feed speed and wire size is reliable for starters and should provide confidence. 

 

I'm really pleased that you've taken this initiative, you're in a professional grade welding machine now.  We can talk about metals and proper fillers as your "weldor" skills unfold.  Metallurgy is fascinating and a boon for making the right choices about welds and metals while getting the correct results.

 

The next great tool you have is the vacuum bleeder.  With all the open lines, parts kicking around the shop and newly formed tubing, it's very smart to vacuum bleed the system to rid it of any contaminants, using brake fluid as the flushing agent.  I like your tubing bends, and yes, it is realistic to find that new tubing often requires re-seating and re-tightening.  The flare seats must conform and align, and this takes pressure at the flare seats—especially with stainless hardness. 

 

I hate to spend your money, but the larger lever-action "professional" flaring tools with dies can handle volume flaring far better than the lighter setups.  You're double-flaring all tubing ends, right?  This takes a lot of pressure.  When this tool set came into the U.S. market several years ago from offshore, I paid $139 for mine, and they quickly jumped to $199: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-70081/overview/.  You may be about through with flaring for awhile, but a tool like this one will handle all the brake and fuel lines you'll ever make.  The clamped dies do not claw at the tubing, either, and this leaves a professional finish.  

 

Your hoses and mounting look very good.  Make sure hoses don't interfere with the wheels, tires or chassis when you're in motion and steering with the axles articulating.  I'm sure you've tried to visualize all possibilities, though these fit-ups can produce surprises.  Keep an eye on hoses for chafing and hyperextending. 

 

As for the braided hoses' proximity to the headers, rely on my suggestion:  Test the surface temps of brake and fuel lines and hoses with the engine heat soaking the underhood and firewall.  (This means vehicle parked after a hot run and left running with the hood closed, then open the hood and check the hoses and lines with the heat gun while still "baking".)  The infrared temp gun will tell the tale.  You don't want to embrittle hose or boil brake fluid.  Let us know your findings, you can always shield the heat affected area, we can discuss safe shielding techniques. 

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Moses....thanks as always for your comments.  When I bought my welder I bought an 11 pound roll of ER-70S-6 wire.  That's what this weld was made with.   I bought a metal gauge and estimated that the rod was about 1/4" in thickness which the chart on the machine called for a "D" setting which is about 4 out of 6 possible settings.  Can't remember the wire feed speed off the top of my head.  Seemed to work out okay.  Didn't get much splatter.  It's probably a little gutsy to make my first weld on such an important structure as the drag link but it's done now.

 

If for example there were concerns over the integrity of this weld, how would one strengthen it at this point.  In other words would you choose to build up a higher crown with a hotter setting, broaden the base of the weld, etc.  Just asking out of curiosity.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

David...The width and depth of a weld determines the heat (voltage/amperage) setting.  Wire diameter is another factor.  The pace or travel speed of your weld, including the side-to-side or "C" movement of the torch, determines the weld puddle size and the amount of metal deposited.  For wire feed MIG welding, filler deposition is also a function of the wire spool-out speed.

 

Note: While using the correct settings on the Lincoln 216 machine and based on your material thickness, concentrate on forming proper bead crowns.  The crown shape and appearance are your best indicator of weld penetration, amount of heat applied, wire feed speed and torch travel speed.  Avoid grinding down the crowns to "make them look better".  If your machine settings were correct, the single pass should have been hot and capable of burning well into the "V".  Is that what your gut says?

 

So, in the weld project you just completed, the weld's width and depth determine the stamina of the weld.  A single pass is possible with this machine.  There is the option of making three passes:  1) a burn-in root pass, 2) a second pass from one side to just over the center of the "V", then 3) the opposite side weld burning into both of the other two passes.  Many avoid the structurally sound multi-pass approach because they want a single pass "look".  Large pipeline welding without voids is always multiple passes...Regardless of your motive, the single pass can work, especially on 1/4" depth metal, if you meet these criteria:

 

1)  The weld burns to the root or very bottom of the metal.  Whether a flat weld or the radius of tubing, burn into the metal enough to show filler reaching just through the bottom of the metal mating junction. If you do this, the finished piece will have more thickness at the welded section than those metal sections that are not welded.

 

2)  There is a "normal" crown on the weld.  A single pass crown should bridge the top of the "V".  There should, optimally, be no gaps at the weld edges.  The weld edges should look seamless with the two pieces of joined metal.

 

3)  Avoid undercut grooves at the weld edges.  Undercut is undesirable and usually indicates excessive travel speed of the arc rod or torch, or too little filler entering the puddle from lack of heat.  (Along with undercut, there is often a weld crown with an exaggerated height and narrower width.)  An undercut area would be a weakened section of the weld:  The thickness of the welded piece is thinner at the undercut areas, and this means the metal's strength has been diminished.  Avoid craters at the end of the weld bead(s) by allowing the filler to puddle there; the crown should be uniform height and width, even if you stop and restart a bead.  Something to practice.

 

The weld crown will be just right every time if the heat (voltage/amperage), feed speed and wire size are correct—and if you move the MIG torch at the right pace.  A MIG bead will appear right if you move the torch head properly.  Your new Lincoln machine's recommended settings are a reliable place to begin. 

 

On a butt weld with beveled edges, you can visualize the task as: 1) burn into the root of the "V" to establish full fusion of metal (which can also include fusion with a piece below the base of the "V") and 2) create a puddle without voids or occlusions, filling the entire "V" and also forming a correct crown—without weld edge undercutting.  Always penetrate the "V" root so that the weld is at least even with the bottom or backside of the piece.

 

Whether you succeed in doing this with a single pass or three passes, good results require the right machine settings and use of the right filler, correct heat and the right torch movement.  Other concerns with MIG (GMAW) are the shielding gas and positioning of the gas nozzle and tip.  This is critical.  In your shop, without moving air, there is less likelihood of losing your gas shield.  Be aware, all of this changes if there is moving air.  You need this gas shield to prevent oxidization, so make sure it's there!  To prove this point, run a practice bead on scrap metal both with and without the gas turned on.

 

Your use of ER-70S-6 is great for clean, new metal.  If you start fiddling with less than clean metal, you'll gravitate toward ER-70S-2.  As for any weld's integrity and strength, respect for metallurgy and the proper choice of materials is important.  Know the base metal's character and how your welds will impact tensile, ductility and the granular structure of the metal. 

 

I highly recommend some study of metals, their properties and how they change when welded.  Ignorance is not bliss.  For example, you're way ahead to know the difference between annealed, normalized and hardened (case or through hardening) metal properties.  Welding and the filler material impact the base metal, and the biggest concern is the character of the finished metal piece.

 

For judging a weld properly, there are three traditional tools.  When you practice with your new machine, consider these approaches: 

 

1) Cut the piece perpendicular to the weld with a band saw.  Examine the cross-section of your weld and the adjacent fused metal.  There should be no parting lines or voids, and the metal should look like one continuous, fused piece.

 

2) Bend the piece to the point of destruction to see the weld's character in that process.  Where did the metal fatigue?  Break?  Shear or stretch?  Keep in mind that welding is a fusion process, and metals should flow fully together.

 

3) X-ray analysis used in commercial, critical welding.  This is done on pipe and high strength aircraft, nuclear or steam welding.  Metal materials welded with specific filler get studied.  Finished pieces are sometimes X-rayed in place (like high pressure pipeline) to check integrity and make certain the pieces will hold up in service.  This is a commercial approach for specialized welds and weldor certification tests.

 

Your real concern with a weld is how well you fused the metal and how you impacted its metallurgy.  Proper weld machine settings, correct filler wire or rod choice and the method of cool down each play a role.  If the metal's tensile or surface hardness is critical, you must cool or treat the metal properly.  In special cases, this begins with a trip to the heat treating shop to normalize the pieces; following the welding process, there will be a return trip to the heat treating shop for heat treatment. 

 

These are some of the concerns with welding.  Let's continue the discussion as you use your new welder!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

The jeep went on it's first field trip last week.  I loaded it up on the trailer and took it to the muffler shop.  I considered stainless pipes but for the cost I could install 2 1/2 aluminized systems.  I went with flomaster, dual exhaust.  They ran them out the back/sides.  Put chrome tips on for a little bling.  They also welded on the nut for the oxygen sensors right behind the collectors.

 

While the jeep was on the trailer I took it by a couple of paint shops here in town.  Both said there's a fair amount of body work that needs to be done especially since I'm going with black....it will show every irregularity.  They also both said they wish they could take the body off....I told them that wasn't an option.  The disappointing thing was they both said it would need to be with them for 2-4 weeks.  I have so much to do and so much momentum going I hate to be without it for that long but it is what it is.  Gonna take it to the paint shop first thing Monday morning.

 

Finished running the fuel line along the firewall and put the EFI fuel connectors on.  Gonna wait to run a little fuel through the line before connecting it to the motor to flush out whatever junk may be in the line.

 

Ill keep you posted....probably gonna be a long 2-4 weeks without my jeep.

 

Incidentally I got new rims and tires.  Took them to the shop and got them mounted and balanced.....gonna look good.  33X12.50 R15.  

 

David

[AZ.Jay]

It's looking great David. I'll look forward to the pictures after you get it back from the paint shop!

[60Bubba]

Gee David, those wheels look familiar. I'm a fan. I assume those are Classic III's? I had 4 of the Classic II, and it was quite a challenge to find another for a spare. If the money and storage aren't an issue, might I suggest having at least 6 total? One for a spare tire and one for a true spare in case one is damaged.

Good luck with the paint shop. If they said 2-4 weeks, hopefully they're being realistic. There are lots of little parts to mess with. I would also talk to them about how to handle the scrapes and dings that will occur as you put it back together. My shop just didn't bother fixing clear coat runs and buffing. They just asked me to bring it back once it was fully assembled to put the finishing touches on it.

As careful as I was, I did scrape things up in numerous places. I'm glad they're willing to fix things up. Looking forward to seeing that new black paint.

Case

[Moses Ludel]

David, your Jeep is fantastic...The attention to detail and quality parts are evident everywhere.  Great job! 

 

The exhaust work is very clean, I like the rear exiting, down swept tailpipes and tips.  This will keep your children from breathing exhaust fumes when you're crawling off-pavement.  I've done two rock trails in the last year as a passenger in vintage trail running Jeep 4x4s, each had side exit exhaust systems.  I diplomatically jumped out and filmed from the ground, after ten minutes the fumes were nauseating.

 

Subletting the paint and sheet metal work will be worth the wait...I understand why you're reticent to take off the body!  You've done so much work to date...Can't wait to hear your driving impressions soon, this is one fantastic 4x4!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Thanks for the compliments guys.  Yes those are classic IIIs.  I ordered the tires and wheels from separate dealers on amazon and had them mated up.  That's gonna be the last thing I do is put those on the jeep.

I took this to two different paint shops and they both said they would love it if the body were off.  Well, guess what...I relented as much as I hated to.  I disconnected the fuel lines, parking brake line, steering rod, and took the brake booster off the firewall bracket, disconnected the body mounts and slipped the body right off.  I figured if they said they wanted it off they really meant it.

The main reason I took it off had more to do with the idea of leaving the powertrain and rolling chassis with them for a whole month vs just the body.  This way I don't have to worry about it being stolen from their lot and I can still tinker with the rest of the jeep while they have the body.

Now I am beginning to research what to do about a roll cage.  I want more protection than OEM.  I spoke with Genright.  They make a full roll cage kit that still allows for OEM hard and soft top.  Requires welding the kit together, a chance to use my new welder.

I am going to try and get the body to the paint shop today or tomorrow and let them have at it.

I installed and hooked up the O2 sensors.  I also cleaned up the grill in the blaster.

David

   

[60Bubba]

I think you made the right call to pull the body.  In my case, I had to paint my frame with almost everything still installed, and I was able to complete that task while the tub was away.  I'd like to think they were able to do a better job on the painting with everything pulled off of the tub.  Looking forward to the results from the paint shop.  Are you planning to have that new full roll cage painted to match?

 

Case

[Moses Ludel]

Agree with Case, David...The finish work will be much better, the tub shot thoroughly...No better way to paint a Jeep, and you want it sealed properly...You also got the Jeep apart in record time...Fresh in mind helps!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

While the body's away I went ahead and worked on the dash.  The dash I ordered is powder coated black so it did not go with the rest of the body.  I had to drill the holes for the clock and tach.  Made sure to line them up properly.  The speakers I got needed to be set back from the dash a little so I preplaced a nut on the studs before mounting up the speakers....set them back just the right amount.   The gauges look pretty sharp.  I was naive thinking that I could just slip the dash indicator lights in place.  I had to file down the holes to get everything to fit.

 

The retrosound stereo I got looks OK.  I hooked up a 12 volt battery I had laying around and the sound was pretty good.

 

I was looking closer at the exhaust system with the body off.  Looks like there's a part they missed when welding...see pic.  Moses is this something I could take care of with the 70S-6 wire?

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

Good catch on the exhaust pipe weld, David...This would likely wind up a leak at the mid-chassis point.  The tech simply could not wrap the MIG torch far enough around the topside of the pipe, he reached out but could not get into that space with the tub there.

 

You can fix this with your ER70S-6, similar to what they used.  the "-6" as I've shared works best with clean metal, and this is new.  Account for the thin pipe wall, measure its thickness if necessary, and use the matched settings on your Lincoln.  Might pay to practice on a piece of fresh exhaust tube before plunging.  The actual weld you can do, you run quality beads.  Wire feed speed and heat are the challenge here.  You've got the machine!

 

The dash looks great...Many like the CJ for this vintage dash appearance...Good blend of modern with classic Jeep, David!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Not bad for my second weld with the new machine.  I love it....it is so smooth.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

That'll do it, David...Nice to have a machine that can let you concentrate on the MIG torch handle speed.  The wire speed and heat are in the machine's dials and the charts, a great place to start!   Good machine there, a long term investment that will pay for itself many times over!

 

What a time saver to have your shop welder, and this is a great machine!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

I know my posting has slowed down but that's because the jeep is at the painters....not much I can do at this point.  Buttoning up a few things.  

I got the temp sensor put in place....on the ls engine it goes at the back passenger side of the head.  The oil temp sensor went in place right next to the oil filter.  Both of these sensors came with the new dash gauge kit I bought.

I also purchased a stabilizer bar/kit from M.O.R.E. for the steering box.  Even with the shackle reversal kit in place it went together great.

I put a little gas in the new tank....guessing around 3-4 gallons.  I hooked a 12 volt battery up to the in tank pump wiring and ran some gas through the system in order to make sure there wasn't any trash in the line before I hooked it up to the engine.  Once flushed I hooked it up to the engine.  Ran it for about 5 minutes.  No leaks appeared anywhere in the system so I think I'm good.

David

[Moses Ludel]

Nice, David!  It runs...

 

When you tighten that steering pitman nut, make sure there's no powder coat or paint on the arm's splines.  Keep the steering gear on center while tightening the nut to prevent jamming the steering gear against its left-right stops.  Also make sure the front axle's steering stops will stop the steering knuckles short of the full left-right turns of the steering gear.  Torque the pitman nut to specification, recheck after a short driving interval.

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Sorry Moses....that was a misworded comment....the engine didn't run.   I ran the fuel pump for a few minutes after it was hooked up to the engine.  The engine has not fired up yet.  I assure you when I first crank the engine I'll give it more than a single line comment....will probably post a video of it.

David

[Moses Ludel]

Yes, David, let's see/hear the video!!!  We're patiently waiting for that 325 horsepower beast to awaken...

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

The body shop called last week.  They said they thought it would be best since all my body parts were aftermarket if I would come by and pick up all the parts.  They had worked over the parts with body filler, sanding, and priming.  They wanted me to remount the tub on the chassis and then place all the parts together with the new brackets I have.  Then bring it back to them, they would etch/mark the location of the brackets, take it apart, paint it, and put it back together for me.  That way there wouldn't be any risk of scratching the finish.  If they scratched it they could touch it up.

 

So it's together for the first time.  Most of the parts fit great.  I'm going to get it back to them next week.

 

I bought a lokar throttle cable for GM engines.  Put it on tonight.  Using the stock gas pedal makes it look original which I like.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

David...This is really exciting and a professional approach...The Jeep will be so well done in the end!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

I finally got the jeep back from the painters....everything except the new windshield frame.....I had them go ahead and have their glass guy put the new windshield in.  Turns out it was a really tight fit and they broke the new windshield and had to order another new one.  The windshield frame wasn't yet mounted to the rest of the jeep.  I went and got what was finished today.  Looks great.  Went with black and Im really glad I did.  As soon as I got it home I put the defrost ductwork in place and went ahead and put the dash and the new wiring in position to start wiring it all up this weekend.

 

While the jeep was at the painters I was able to get most of the new gauges and dash wiring taken care of.  Looks like a mess but it all makes sense.

 

Glad to be posting again....should be able to keep you up to speed now that I've got it back.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

Fantastic, David!  Really taking shape...Welcome back, the paint shop detour was well worth it!

 

Black works...

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

That is really sharp.  You're right about the dash wiring being a mess.  Even with a brand new harness, I never was able to get it as tidy as I had hoped.  At least it works and I don't have dozens of random wires back there now. The new wiring will certainly give you some peace of mind.

[spdljohn]

Been busy with wiring and trying to make it look a little less like a birds nest under the dash.   I was able to connect a trickle battery charger and test the circuits inside the jeep that have been hooked up so far.  Nothing is smoking or melting yet so that's encouraging.  I installed Halogen headlights so I bought and installed a headlight relay kit from Painless performance.  I am also installing a vintage air ac system.  When I bought the power train from Novak I went ahead and ordered a rebuild Omega AC compressor.  I bought another tool that Ill probably never use again but I really like the idea of doing as much of this myself as I can in my own shop.  I bought a hose crimping kit for the AC hoses.  Seems to work pretty well.  I also bought an ac system recharging kit that includes a vacuum pump.  That should be in tomorrow so Ill be able to see if I have any leaks.

Once I vacuum the ac system and ensure there are no leaks then I'll install the new radiator with electric fan.....I don't want to install this and then have to remove it to track down any potential leaks in the condenser.

I also installed the fuel filler neck and connected the hoses.  The new aftermarket tub for some reason did not come with anywhere to attach the tail gate catch cables.  I bought some chrome spacers and simply drilled a hole, placed a bolt, and it seems to work great.  Won't be able to sit on the tailgate but I'm not sure that would be a good idea anyway.

Got the steering wheel installed as well as the new horn and the washer fluid reservoir.

David

[Moses Ludel]

WOW!  This is really coming together, David...Wiring and the neat routing of all hoses, the aftermarket air conditioning, terrific!  You'll really like the AC and have more than enough HP to run that compressor.  Are you planning a hardtop?  Hard or soft top, the AC will be a boon.

 

I'm a tool buff as you know, and the AC hose crimping tool is pro grade, very impressive results and attention to detail, consistent with how this Jeep looks overall.

 

If this keeps up, you'll be test driving the CJ-7 shortly!  What an accomplishment, and not that long in the works...Thanks for documenting this project in photos, a real incentive for others!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Thanks Moses. I am not buying a hard top.....to much trouble to put on and off for a lazy bum like me. I bought a gen right after market roll cage I will be welding together shortly. They said a bestop supertop fits it well so that is what I got. The roll cage came with a spider web mesh bikini top. I do have hard half doors though.

[Moses Ludel]

David...Bestop is an OEM supplier, a good call!  My son-in-law really likes his Supertop NX, here's the installation:  https://www.4wdmechanix.com/moses-ludels-4wd-mechanix-magazine-bestop-supertop-nx-how-to-jeep-yj-wrangler-installation/.  He has the top in place of a Jeep YJ Wrangler OEM hardtop, and the design is similar to what you will be getting.  Great fit and styling...Follow Kevin's tips.

Moses

[spdljohn]

I think I'm probably within 7-10 days of turning the motor over.  Been a busy couple of days....the wife went out of town this weekend with some girlfriends so it's me and the kiddies.....not planning on getting much done this weekend.

I've been putting some of the chrome and stainless trim pieces on which has been neat to see it come together......got the grill support rods and hood prop rod put in place.  Got the hood latches and windshield tie down brackets put in place.  

I purchased an ac system charging kit which comes with the vacuum pump to evacuate the system as well as the manifold gauges.  I ran the vacuum pump for an hour per their instructions to remove air and moisture from the ac system.  Then I closed the gauges on the manifold, left the shop last night with the pressure at -27 mmhg.  This morning went back out to the shop and was very happy to see it held overnight....no leaks!!!

So I was able to move on and get the radiator and radiator hoses installed followed by the air intake system.  The radiator hoses were from napa but had to be modified a little.  Novak's instructions said "they've had good luck" with certain napa hoses they listed.  So I knew it wouldn't be an exact fit.  Haven't filled the radiator system yet but once I get the overflow reservoir mounted Ill do that.

I got the tail harness wiring run as well as the speed sensors from the transfer case to the ECU.  My speedometer from speed hut uses GPS to detect speed but the engines ECM needs speed input from the differential to know whether to go from open to closed loop or vice versa....something to do with the cooling system.  Also got the power wire run from the ECM harness to the in tank fuel pump.

Picked up the windshield from the glass place today....they said it was a tight fit and gave them a little difficult time.  Ill get it installed next week.

Bought an optima battery but will not hook it up until ready to crank.

Installed the quadratec LED rear taillights and to my satisfaction all turn signals, brake lights, lights, and reverse lights work great!  They are bright!

Bought a CJ7 and Jeep emblem to make it look a little closer to stock.  

You can see what the dash speedo cluster looks like with just the LED backlights and then with the headlights on and the needle lit up.

Got a bunch of stickers for my work bench from all the parts I've ordered!

Enjoy the pics.  Will post again next week.

David

[Moses Ludel]

You're gaining celebrity status at the forums and the magazine Facebook page, David!  Everyone's impressed...This is the real deal!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Funny thing is I'm learning as I go. Never done this before. Rebuilt my dads antique tractor four years ago from ground up. See pics. I know it's not Exactly what is normally covered on this forum but it's got an engine and it goes and we all like that kind of stuff. By the way, that's my daughter who is ten now. Neat to see pics of my four yr old with the jeep now. My girls love being out in the shop with me.

Next project, already got my eye on, is 69 convertible camaro. Wife says take a break!

David

[Moses Ludel]

Really like the Massey-Harris tractor project, great outcome, David!  My first tractor chores were on a Ford 800 tractor that needed a clutch job and steering work.  Your Massey-Harris split apart reminds me of accessing the clutch in that Ford 800.  The satisfaction from tractor rebuilding is the eventual ability to perform work—unless, of course, the tractor is one of today's collectible trailer queens!  That Ford 800 was likely my inspiration for later becoming a heavy equipment operator...

 

In the 'nineties, we had a Ford 8N that I liked, though with a bucket loader it was very hard to turn with manual steering!

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Finished hooking up all the wiring tonight.  Only a couple of things need to be fixed inside the jeep.  One is when I rotate the headlight switch all the way left the courtesy lights do not come on.  Got a new headlight switch to install to see if that will fix the problem.  Secondly and I think this is a ground issue, when I turn the parking or headlights on the left turn signal comes on constant and the turn signals don't work.  With the parking lights/headlights off it works great.

 

Almost an exciting night......I turned the motor over but didn't get it to fire.  Also couldn't get the fuel pump to come on...unless I directly wired it to a battery and even then couldn't get the engine to fire up.  Gonna be on the phone with Novak tomorrow to see if we can figure it out.  Not even sure right now the PCM has any power.

 

Also, the ac system will not hold a vacuum so I've got a leak in the system somewhere.  I have ordered a black light and UV dye to try and find the leak.  Have to get the motor running first to disperse the UV dye and pressurize the system fully.

 

Here's a link to the video of the almost first start..

 

 

David

[spdljohn]

She lives!  Was on the phone with Novak today figuring things out.  Turns out I had incorrectly hooked up some relays on the engine harness that prevented fuel pump and ECM from getting any juice.   Quick fix, turned the key, fired right up.  It sounds great.....nice low rumble....not too loud even in the workshop.

 

 

Still having issues with the dash turn signal indicator lights.  When I turn the parking lights on the turn signal indicator lights come on and the blinkers don't work.  Spoke with painless performance and grounded everything I could find on the lighting harness and still happens.  May just try to get to that later....can even drive it to automotive electrical shop if I need to.   I understand this is fairly common.  Moses.....any suggestions?

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

David...The tail and parking lights are the same circuit. The turn signals are a completely separate circuit.  The ground for each is common:  the shell of the bulb to a grounded light socket housing.  There should be no ground other than the shell of the light socket.  So, use your ohmmeter and check for continuity on the ground side and the hot leads.  If you have sufficient grounds, the parking light to turn signal/brake light circuit may be tying together.

 

Also, what you see as "turn signal lights", unless actually flashing, could be your brake lamp circuit tying the parking/tail lamp circuit to the brake/turn signal circuit.  Think of the turn signal relay as "interrupting" the flow of current to the side of the vehicle that should flash.  Otherwise, the brake lamp circuit would override the turn signal, with the light remaining solidly on when the pedal and brake light apply. 

 

Grounds are strictly to the lamp sockets, which means that your battery/body/frame/engine ground circuit must also be completely intact without excessive resistance.  The Jeep tub has fresh paint all over.  Are your body grounds to the frame, engine and battery adequate?  The lamp sockets must pick up battery negative via the complete ground circuit.  Check ohms resistance from the negative ground terminal at the battery to the parking and tail lamp sockets.

 

If a CJ-7 wiring schematic would help, I can post a copy when I'm back from Moab EJS this weekend.  Meanwhile, check to be sure that your brake light switch is compatible with the rest of this system and that battery/frame/engine/body grounds are solid, without excessive resistance.

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Thanks Moses.  Couple of observations....with the parking lights on and the engine not running and the battery supplying ~12 volts of power only the left turn signal indicator light comes on......with the engine running and the voltage up around 14 volts both turn signal indicator lights come on though dimly.  It was happening prior to running the tail harness or installing the rear lights....makes me think my front parking lights are not grounded well.

The front parking light housing is metal but I did install stainless front grill cover which is not touching the front grill because of double sided tape.   Maybe what I need to do is run a dedicated ground wire fron the housings to the frame.

Ill let you know.

 

David

[spdljohn]

Still can't figure out the grounding issues with the parking lights and turn signal indicators.  Looked everything over....there's an old timer's auto electric shop in my hometown nearby....will probably have to run it by and let them take a look.

 

Had a leak in the ac system....wouldn't hold vacuum overnight.  Bought some dye for the system, charged it and ran it.   You can see the dye leaking ever so slightly around the end of the low pressure hose especially with the black light shining on it.....bled the system (recapturing freon)...put that fitting back into the clamping system I have hooked it back up and seems to be doing better.

 

Put new shoes and wheels on today.    Got the new windshield wiper motor and brackets/wipers put on tonight.  Got the side mirrors in place.

 

Coming together.   Going on vacation for a week tomorrow so won't be any progress.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

Clearly coming together.  Like the AC dye test, very convincing, quick troubleshooting...You likely need the week's vacation and family time!

 

Moses

[60Bubba]

Hey David, when I put mine back together I had similar issues with the lights. Turned out the ground for the front turn signals runs through the grill. My spiffy new paint job was breaking the ground. Ran a few jumper grounds from the light harness plug back to my known good chassis ground and got everything to work as designed. I then ran some new grounds. Works fine now. I'm actually sitting on a corner in Winslow, Arizona (anybody get the reference) waiting to get new trailer tires installed. The previous owner ran them under inflated and they started to wear wrong. I inflated them properly before we left CA, but they're just getting worse. Oh well, by the time I buy four tires it would have made more sense to buy a new trailer!

[Moses Ludel]

Trailer tires can be dicey. Most of us park our trailer outside, and UV damage kills the tires. My car hauler has more than 60% tread on the tires, but they should be replaced now, anyway...Any flatbed Fords at that corner in Winslow?

Another consideration is camber. Tube beam trailer axles flex under load. If the tires are wearing to one side, take a straight edge level and check the side of the wheel/tire for level or close to zero camber with the trailer loaded. By design, these axles go slightly positive camber when empty. They should be close to zero camber with your load onboard.

Safe travels, Case!

Moses

[spdljohn]

After vacation got back to working on the jeep.  I put the two front seats in and got it out on the road.  Over the last two days I've put 60 miles on it and I am very pleased with how well it rides.  Few minor things......

 

At about mile 40 I pulled up to a stop light and heard an unfamiliar noise......with only 40 miles all noises are unfamiliar.   It was a hissing sound accompanied by some smoke/steam.  First thought was fuel line had busted and caused a fire.  Shut it down, jumped out, threw up the hood.   Fortunately no fire.  Clear liquid dripping underneath.  Put some on my finger....not fuel.....closer examination revealed that I accidentally let an AC hose carrying freon rest against the headers....it had melted through.  Ordered new hose set and few cans of freon.....will fix that this week sometime.

 

A bigger deal is the fact that the fuel level indicator is not working.  I do have the normal ~5 volts being sent from the gauge tested with voltmeter.  My multimeter also tests for resistance....I can't get it to read any resistance.....looks like the problem is with the sending unit.  Gonna finish running out the fuel in the tank before I drop it.  

 

These hydroboost brakes work great......very confident in the ability to stop these big tires.   Engine has plenty of power.   Transmission gearing is great with the 33 inch tires.....in fifth gear at 35 miles per hour engine is turning about 1000 RPM.

 

I wanted the same wheel caps on the front wheels that the rear wheel has.  Problem is since the front axle has the manual locking hubs the caps wouldn't fit.  So I decided to modify them by cutting out the center of the caps.   Placed gently in my vice, drilled a hole, and then used my router to cut the center out.  Looks pretty good.

 

Also got my soft top installed today.  I wanted to do this before I assembled the roll cage just in case it had to be modified to ensure it would fit.  

 

David

[60Bubba]

That is looking really sharp.  I've been out driving around Memphis in mine.  It's definitely different dealing with it in big city traffic instead of little old Monterey, but it is behaving well since I replaced the fuel pump.  Have fun with it; I'm sure there will be plenty of bugs to work out.

[Moses Ludel]

Nice work on both of your Jeep vehicles!  On the road...

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Been chipping away.....as I mentioned earlier I wanted more protection for me and my passengers than the OEM roll bar affords.   Genright who I bought the new fuel tank from makes a roll cage kit for the cj7.  You can buy it from them already assembled, welded, and even powder coated.  But I have a new welder I needed to enjoy using.  Plus with the body being aftermarket you never know if one already welded would fit just right.  So I bought the roll cage kit.  I left the front seats in the jeep so I could see how everything would fit together and be sure clearance wouldn't be an issue.  

When I bought it from Genright they said it would "work" with the Bestop super top.  I installed my top last week, intentionally before assembling the roll cage so I could check for fitment issues.  When I got the roll cage tacked together, the top wouldn't go down....it didn't clear the C pillar in the back.  I called Genright, spoke with the same guy that told me it would work and he said (unbelievably), "the top works but it can't be folded back....it's either on or off."  I couldn't believe it.  Not a big deal.  I cut 1.5" off the length of the horizontal portion of the C pillar assembly effectively bringing the rear C pillar forward 1.5 inches to allow for clearance.  It required that some of the diagonal cross braces be welded in slightly different spots than Genright intended but now at least the top will fold down and clear.

Took the roll cage out of the jeep and finished welded and grinding all the seams.  Now to the paint shop with it.

 

I bought a Rancho steering stabilizer kit.  Because the front axle is a dana 44 I bought a kit for full size chevy trucks...that way the ubolts in the kit were big enough to wrap around the axles.....but the ubolts for the tie rod still weren't big enough.  I bought some stainless unbolts from Lowes.  But now the metal bracket that came in the kit with predrilled holes didn't fit.  So I had to modify the bracket.   You can see in the pics I used some metal I recycled, drilled new holes, and welded it to the original bracket.

 

I did buy a steering stabilizer kit with two shocks....I understand you don't need two shocks unless you're running 35 inch tires....but I like the way it looks.....you also don't need 360 horsepower for a cj7 but it is what it is!

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

Good thing you got the "kit" roll cage!  I can tell you're lovin' that Lincoln welder and making some great welds, the steering stabilizer bracket looks solid!  Sturdy tack wells made your cage fit accurately for testing the soft top bars and also for removing the cage and making finish welds on the floor. 

 

This is really coming together, David!  The photos are great...

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

I bought some fender flares from Bushwhacker.  They look great.  The front fender flares required some modification or cutting of the front fenders.  Broke my heart to cut the new metal but in the end it worked out great and looks fine.  I had a can of spray in bedliner that I used to coat the metal where I cut.  The wheel wells are covered with line X anyway so it blended fine.

 

Novak conversions offered $350 to  buy my old dana 300 transfer case.  I took it off of the old powertrain this weekend.  It's gonna cost about $100 to have it shipped back.....Im gonna put it on Craigslist for a few weeks first to see if I get any nibbles locally and save shipping costs.

 

Since I'm coming to the end of the project I spent a few hours cleaning the shop and out front of the shop where I had been throwing all the old parts and metal.  I loaded up the metal/axles/engine into the trailer.  Gonna take it to the scrap yard for recycling.

 

As far as the roll cage, powdercoating was going to cost a couple thousand dollars, painting it at the auto body shop that did the body was $1000.  Both those were too expensive.  In the end I found out that you can now get POR15 in a spray can.  I am very impressed with that on the frame.  I am going to paint the roll cage with this stuff and anticipate being very pleased with it.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

Good plans, David!  The Dana 300 should sell in a heartbeat.  Appears intact...The fender flares look great!

 

I like your POR15 approach to the roll cage.  Powder coating can present problems when exposed to the elements.  It's so solid that rust can form beneath the coating without exfoliating as it would with sheet metal and paint.  I learned decades ago from the marine/boat industry that powder coating is a taboo on ship hand railings—it can mask underlying rust until the railing suddenly breaks, and it's "man overboard!".  Following that logic, there are some automotive applications that are not good candidates for powder coating—like a frame exposed to corrosive salts, which could lead to rusting from the inside without outward signs of trouble—until it's too late!

 

Thanks for recycling the metal...

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

I walked the roll cage outside the shop and gave it a good sandblasting.  I did this for two reasons.  Its amazing how quickly fine dust like rust formed on the surface of the metal in just a few days time.  I wanted to remove that obviously.  Secondly I wanted to give something for the paint to grip to.  As I mentioned I used POR 15 top coat in a can...supposed to be UV resistant.  I can tell you it is tough stuff.  Ended up getting a very acceptable looking result.  Got the roll cage installed with no issues.

 

I installed my winch.  I compared warn to smittybuilt...for the money there is no comparison.  Not sure what everyone's thoughts are on Smittybuilt winches.  Its mainly for looks and occasional use.  There may be a difference for hard core trail riders but for me the cost was 50% as much.  Got a 10K lb winch with synthetic rope and wireless remote.  Hooked it to the back of my truck, put the emergency brake on the jeep and spooled the rope on under tension to "stretch" it out a little per the instructions. 

 

I bought some soundproofing and insulation matting from Summit racing to put on the firewall and front floorboards.  Sound isn't that big of a concern but wanted to keep the cab from getting too toasty under my feet.  Then installed the carpet, center console, front seats and shifter covers.  What a difference a little carpet makes.

 

I ended up taking the old jeep body and parts to a local recycling facility.  They paid me $72 for the metal.  Took the wife out on a nice date with that.

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

Wow, what can I say...Nice work, David, very good looking cage and CJ-7!!!

 

Home stretch...

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

As I mentioned in an earlier post my fuel gauge wasn't working.  I did not test the resistance on the fuel level sender before I put it in the tank and mounted it up so I guess it's partly my fault.  So I siphoned the fuel out of the tank, dropped the tank down, and pulled the sending unit.  The unit was a new YJ sending unit I bought from Genright when I bought the fuel tank.  As you recall from earlier post, I modified it to use in the larger tank.  When I tested the resistance at the wires I wasn't getting anything.  When I tested the resistance with the probe on the "washboard" (for lack of a better term) of the resistor I did get a reading.  My first thought was the needle arm wasn't making good contact but that wasn't the case.   After fooling with it for long enough I said to heck with it.  I bough a dedicated fuel level sending unit from Summit racing, drilled a new hole in the top of the tank, and mounted that sucker up.....works great.  Got the tank remounted and have since put about 50 miles on it.

 

Switching gears.....funny story. My buddy has a 2000 TJ.  Him seeing my jeep motivated him to spruce his jeep up a little.  He bought new wheels, 33" tires, and 3 inch suspension lift and had it all put on this week.  I went over to check it out.  While looking around I noticed something beneath the grill that said "Play it Again Sports."  I asked him about it and he didn't know what it was.  Turns out it was a hockey puck!  Turns out the previous owner had performed a body lift using hockey pucks all the way around.  Not sure what that equates to but is probably around an inch.  Pretty ingenious I thought.  

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

David...So the dedicated fuel sender (Summit Racing sourced) has an adjustable tank depth and calibrates fuel levels accordingly? 

 

The hockey pucks ought to be tough, wonder what the actual durometer might be?  We could research and compare to a body lift kit spacer.  It's working on the TJ, right?

 

Moses

[spdljohn]

Moses,

The depth of my tank is 12 inches. I could not find a 12-inch fuel level sending unit so I got the one from Summit Racing that is a FIXED 11 inches. I figured by the time the tank got that low I would be needing to stop for gas soon anyway.  

The sender is not adjustable.....but the aftermarket gauge set from Speedhut has the ability to select from a number of different Ohm ranges for the sending unit to be calibrated.  This particular unit is 30-70 Ohms.  Works great.

As far as the hockey puck lift is concerned my buddy bought this 2000 TJ in 2004 and has been driving it ever since and didn't have a clue the hockey puck lift was on there.  It has been working very well.....and the pucks hardly show any wear at all.

I've got about 390 miles on my CJ now.....been working out kinks.  Nothing really major.  Figured it's about time to pull it back into the shop and retorque all the important bolts and nuts down.   Believe it or not my wife just went for her first ride in it tonight....took her out to dinner.  I noticed a little extra exhaust noise over the last 50 miles or so.  Became really pronounced out on our date.  And got really loud....almost like side pipes.  Then it starting running rich....some backfiring and sputtering at low to mid engine speeds.  Then the check engine light came on.  I have a u scan OBD reader.  Hooked it up and it read "bank one too rich."  Turns out where the headers and collectors come together the bolts are coming loose allowing for a gap and disrupting the oxygen sensors readings causing the engine to run rich.  I took a video....you can see sparks coming out of the gap.

I will get it tightened back down tomorrow....once things cool down....already burned my knuckles a few too many times.

 

 

David

[Moses Ludel]

That's new headers, David!  Glad you were able to quickly diagnose and make sense of a leak.  It was enough to dilute the O2 reading as you share...Good job!

 

Moses