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CV Joint - Greasing Centering Ball


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I was using a needle point grease gun tip to inject grease into the front drive shaft CV joint [Double Cardan Joint] to lubricate the centering ball on my 1985 K5 Blazer.  The grease fitting is the female flush type.

 

I can't seem to pump any more grease into the joint.  The grease squirts out between the needle tip and the flush fitting.  I'm not sure if the flush grease fitting is clogged or the grease cavity is full.  Any thoughts?

 

I'll attach a couple of pictures that I got off of the internet to illustrate the CV joint and the flush type grease fitting.

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Hi, jawalter!  This is a tricky one.  Since you're using a hand gun, there's less risk of over-greasing.  This is not part of the U-joint, so don't expect grease to weep from cross-joint seals!  You're basically replenishing grease here.  Do not apply too much pressure or a large volume of grease.  Grease this fitting routinely, just a bit at a time.

 

I use a Lincoln grease tip kit, which I acquired specifically for the ball end extension to service these CV joints.  I ultimately found that the pinpoint tip works better, held steadily and with straight-in force.  Stay centered on the tiny ball within the cup of this grease fitting.  I've had the best success with the pinpoint tip, using a quality, high pressure, professional grade hand grease gun. 

 

The grease type is especially critical in this application.  I used Texaco Starplex II for years and have experimented with some non-petroleum, bio-degradable types of late.  This joint does need attention, though it's not under real load unless in 4x4 mode.  Fortunately, on your K5 Blazer, you have free wheeling front hubs.  Unlocking the hubs in 2WD mode, the front driveline does not spin continuously—like it does on my Dodge Ram 3500, XJ Cherokee  and other 4x4s without free-wheeling front hubs.  Lucky Blazer!

 

Moses

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Hello Moses,

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

I used a NLGI No. 2 lithium grease that I picked up at Advance Auto Parts.  Should I try to add a different molybdenum type grease like the Texaco Starplex II to the centering ball?

 

When the centering ball cavity is full of grease, will the excess grease just squirt out around the grease gun needle tip?  That seems to be what is happening in my situation.

 

Jeff

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Jeff, grease could back up to the fitting.  Here's a Dana-Spicer manual that illustrates the needs for your driveline:

 

Spicer Dana Driveline PDF.pdf

 

On Page 25, you'll get an idea of Dana-Spicer's approach to maintenance.  Very stringent at 2000-3000 mile grease intervals!  Obviously, this is for fleet operators who actually perform preventive care on trucks.

 

Unfortunately, the illustrations are low resolution (try reducing the image size or zooming out for an improved view), but it appears that there is a grease lip seal at the inside edge of these spherical joints. If that's the case, the lip points inward to contain grease, and you want to pump grease gently through this joint to prevent risking damage to the lip seal over time.  My guess is that Dana-Spicer wants lubrication techs to replenish grease regularly, not flush out the entire cavity or stress the seal too much. 

 

I would stick with a quality hand gun and premium grease.  Avoid mixing chemistry once you have a grease type and brand.  Lithium is okay, moly would likely be better here.  Starplex II holds up quite well and provides peace of mind.  There are several Chevron alternatives if you're curious.  I can provide trade names.  Starplex II is a Texaco product and may be difficult to source locally.  I bought cases of grease gun cartridges from the local Texaco bulk plant and used this grease faithfully on GM live beam axle wheel bearings and chassis needs like yours.  We had two Suburban 3/4-ton 4x4s, an '86 and '87, and each had front wheel bearing packs with Starplex II plus periodic lubrication with this same type grease.

 

Moses

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