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Changing 1985 Jeep CJ-7 from Manual to Power Brakes


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Welcome to the forums!  To answer your question on changing over brakes, I'd begin by saying the best practice is to line up a donor vehicle that is original, and use the layout and parts as a prototype.  Typically, you will change the master cylinder and booster assembly, the linkage at the brake pedal, the proportioning/combination valve and other pieces that may differ.  Compare brake lines and hoses, too.

 

I begin by studying the parts and part numbers in a factory parts manual, and here I can help.  Below is a PDF with not only part numbers from Mopar but also the layout schematics for your parts.  All pages are relevant, you're comparing individual parts and model/equipment applications.  Zoom into the images and text for finer details, an advantage with a PDF and bitmap images.

 

You can do some preliminary work by comparing the parts differences between the manual braking system and the power braking system.  From there, determine which parts must be used in the conversion:

 

Jeep CJ Manual Versus Power Brake Parts.pdf

 

As a footnote, be aware of the brake bleeding procedure for these later CJs.  You need to follow the factory approach and shuttle the valve properly at the proportioning/combination valve.  Without doing so, you will not be able to bleed brakes effectively.

 

This is a place to start...Looking forward to your involvement at the forums!

 

Moses

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys,

 

I put a Mopar fuel injection kit on my straight six as well as a power break booster. A lot of things were eliminated with the Mopar kit. Still not getting good breaking. Not squishy, but really gotta stomp on em to get the truck to stop. Pretty much all stock, running 31's. What might I be missing? Vaccuum canister perhaps?

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Shovel Guy...Your brake booster should have a plastic one-way check valve where the vacuum hose attaches.  This traps the vacuum in the booster canister.  If the check valve is defective, the booster will not seal vacuum. 

 

A quick check is to run the engine and test the brake pedal with a light touch.  See whether the pedal wants to pull downward as you apply pressure.  (This may be easier to test with your fingertips.  Chock the wheels and make sure the transmission is in neutral or Park with the engine idling.)  Let the engine idle, then shut it off.  Immediately try the brake pedal.  If the feel is hard and the pedal stays high, you're likely not holding any vacuum in the canister. 

 

The booster check valve is at the booster vacuum hose inlet to the canister.  If manifold vacuum is not "checked" within the booster, there will be no vacuum assist pressure.  This is a small, relatively inexpensive part.  Also, the vacuum hose size and vacuum source at the manifold must be large enough to provide ample vacuum flow to the booster.  The vacuum source at the manifold must be strong and steady at all engine speeds and throttle openings.

 

Please post photos of your vacuum fitting at the manifold and the booster check valve.

 

Moses

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