I have hit a sticking point with my engine upgrade on my 1979 Jeep CJ-7. After 8 years on running a carb I finally fuel injected my CJ.
I installed a Hesco MPFI kit and Genright tank with an in-tank YJ module. My old tank was rusted and after installing the tank and new lines the fuel pressure was and still is good. The rest of the install went well and I did all the work myself. I also purchased a new '83 exhaust manifold with the O2 bung. I could not find a good replacement valve cover for that year 79' and the old steel one leaked a lo so to continue the build I purchased a 4.0 head, exhaust, and valve cover which solved the leaky valve cover issue and a few other clearance issues. I also believed this to be an upgrade after the research I had done.
After installing the 4.0 head the problem I faced then was not getting the right pre-load with the pushrods. I reused my 4.2 push rods, rockers and bought new bridges. After encountering this issue I stopped on the build for a while. Watched the video on getting right valve clearance, pre load etc... and bought an adjustable push rod.
Well then I got deployed and the Jeep sat. I think my next mistake when I got home was to fire it up. When I started it The valve train was noisy and I believe I have a bad lifter on No. 1 exhaust. I changed the oil to find shiny metal and the Jeep idles rough and low rpm. I think this was due to the incorrect pre-load coupled with the Jeep sitting, and me turning the key.
So with that said I am at a cross roads with where to go from here. I have contacted a few rebuild shops to diagnose my issues and fix my pushrod problem. They say the short block may be toast and I should look at a reman. I am looking towards that too. Only one shop will actually look at it but it is in another city.
The CJ has a manual T-18A with a 1980 scout dana 300. Which year 258 would mate to my drivetrain? I still have the exhaust for an '83, intake, accessories etc.. so I am thinking an '83 reman. I would like to have an aluminum valve cover as well.