5 posts in this topic

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Noticed a couple dime sized drops of oil on drive way.  Am a stickler about that and investigation reveals the dreaded and well known transfer case oil pump rub.  Over time a hole is made leading to fluid loss and unless caught in time, will slowly kill your GM T-case.  Mine is the NP263XHD but it affects many similar GM T cases.  If you have a 2001 forward GM T case, best to check it out sooner than later.  
 
There are many after market products to fix it before its too late-- but still requires T case be dropped.  Ugh...   DEalers not too interested in advance warnings, so driver beware.  
 
Am headed out end of week for a 900 mile road trip and as luck has it, this is discovered at the last moment-  seeps par for the 4x4 course.
 
You tube explains it all:
 

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Posted · Report post

RareCJ8...Nice descriptive and aftermarket fix, too.  This video is a service to unsuspecting owners...

 

In your situation, will you attempt to TIG repair this area of the existing case and add the aftermarket pump housing?  This is an area that could be repaired properly with the right TIG method and a quality weld.  Or will you get another case half—if so, how much is this item?

 

Thanks much for sharing this insight...Others can benefit!  Sorry, you're under the gun with a trip planned...

 

Moses

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Posted · Report post

all options are on the table but want to avoid a new case half.  the replacement Op housing is the fix.  See many posts about simply a JB weld plug over hole.     I'll leave any formal welding to someone with insurance.  Last time i exposed magneseium to high heat, it made a nice bonfire.  

 

Making for more good news, left front wheel bearing turning to powder.  Plus all the other usual steering problems---  idler, pitman, etc etc.  there are days i sure miss my old Toyota.

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Posted · Report post

Wow, RareCJ8...What's happening with HD GM 4x4 trucks?  I was a die-hard GM truck owner through the beam front axle era (1991 Suburban and Blazer), had mid-'eighties 3/4-ton 4x4 Suburbans known to go 300K miles on the original chassis—with proper maintenance...Our '73 K10 SWB 4x4 Chevy with the NP205 gear drive transfer case, SM465 transmission and 12-bolt rear axle (beam front axle, too) was truly in a league of its own!

 

Anyway, I did some research.  This "epidemic" problem has prompted Dorman to offer a case half, seen at Amazon for $152 and change!  There are kits for the pump and rebuild kits, too.  Here's the link.  Trust this helps, the parts cost is not extraordinary (easy for me to say, right?), it's the time and labor involved in this repair:

 

http://www.amazon.com/NP261HD-NP261XHD-NP263XHD-TRANSFER-ALUMINUM/dp/B00F7SIG3S

 

Talking about on and off the table ideas, JB Weld is not confidence inspiring when I visualize your truck climbing the Granite Mountains in the springtime for the Memorial Day gather, a trailer in tow...Pass on that "fix", it might get you home in an emergency, but containing ATF lube with JB Weld is not a good plan.  Besides, that surely does not stop the wear pattern unless the pump housing gets changed and upgraded...and if you've gone that far, why bother with JB Weld?

 

Moses

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Posted · Report post

Hi!
I'll be brief...Came upon the same issues about a year ago! Was buying an Avalanche 2500, Pump rub discovered, then noticed a clunk in the automatic tranny when accelerating from a stop!

One problem discussed was/is the steering column shaft the splines were somehow dried out found many solutions from greasing to replacing with a heavier duty splined shaft sold by GM!  The other solution GM recommended was a chromed moly output shaft on tranny!

 

I never bought the truck, so I didn't pursue the solutions!

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