Let me know how this turns out, Biggman100...As for the Dakota pickup and other traditional Chrysler cars and trucks, many find the threaded A-arms and control arms strange.
Strange or not, that's the OEM approach. For some applications, the aftermarket replacement ball joint (typically the lower joint on many older Chrysler passenger cars) may be unthreaded and a "press-in" type. This is good for one time, as flattening the original control arm threads may grip once but will not offer enough tension for a subsequent ball-joint change. On the magazine's OTC hub puller coverage, I also show the correct "square" socket for the threaded Chrysler ball joints: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Tool-How-to-Using-the-OTC-7394-Hub-Puller.html.
Regarding service information, I have used the factory workshop and service manuals and the traditional professional trade manuals like Motors, Glenn's, Mitchell and Chilton (hardbound professional trade type. I bought my first Motors manual in 1968, and that manual is now bookended by Motors passenger car and truck manuals covering 1926 to 1980. I use these manuals for the forums constantly.
Research for each of my books relied on OEM shop manuals for first generation data and details. My print library is stacked with OEM Jeep, G.M., Ford, Toyota and Harley-Davidson manuals. I seldom work on either the XJ Cherokee or the Dodge Ram 3500 without first consulting the Mopar factory shop manual.
CDs are now available (like my 2005 Ram/Mopar Truck Service Manual), and you can source used OEM manuals and even reprints in some cases. With this said, I do find errors on rare occasions, when one year's data gets translated incorrectly or a torque figure is inaccurate.
For working on your Dakota, I would use the Mopar manual, as I do with my Ram. Good backup for a Jeep, too. An alternative for a shop or even a one-time home project is the Mopar official TechAuthority II subscriptions or short-term "rental" access. Check out the website at: http://www.techauthority.com.