Good points, Joe Mac...First, we'd need to assume that you're on the trail with a trailer like RareCJ8's setup or have a pickup bed and the load/space capacity for stowing this tool. It would not be left on the receiver when driving on- or off-highway! It might be a trailside tool for extreme destination four-wheeling, likely carried by the support vehicle in a 4x4 caravan.
Your comment about breaking a bead on a big off-road tire is also well taken. It remains to be seen whether this tool is up for that task, but here's a thought: I've broken beads with a Hi-Lift jack and great care, using the vehicle's bumper as the ratcheting arm point and the jack's foot against the tire's sidewall on the ground. This is very tricky, and keeping the wheel/tire flat is the challenge. You must protect both the tire and the wheel rim in the process.
I'm old enough to know how to break apart a tire with a tire pick/hammer and hand spoons, too. In the day ('sixties to early 'eighties), I worked with split rim wheels and tires plenty, all work done by hand with rubber soap solution, hefty tire hammers and bars. This works, too, if you know what you're doing. In the case of split rims, if you don't know what you're doing, like the need to place the assembled wheel and tire under the lube room's chassis hoist arms or inside a safety tire cage during inflation, you can, literally, lose part of your head if a split rim's locking ring dislodges and blows off while you apply air pressure! Many severe, permanent injuries and deaths have been caused by split rim accidents.
So, this said, you could dismount a tire from a modern one-piece, drop center wheel rim and remount the tire using the right hand tools. I found a standalone bead breaker at the Harbor Freight website that could work in the field if you have the space to tote it around: http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html. Add to the bead breaker a pair of tire bead spoons for automotive size tires, some liquid dish detergent and clean water for making a solution of bead rubber "lube". Find a clean granite or basaltic rock slab alongside the trail.
Photo courtesy of Harbor Freight, see the Harbor Freight website for further details.
Once you break the beads down, you could place a Hi-Lift jack between the vehicle's bumper and the center of the wheel rim and use just enough pressure to hold the wheel/tire assembly flat against the ground. The tire can be disassembled with the spoons, using the rim's drop center for clearance and to prevent bead damage.
After assembly, a tubeless tire needs a tire rim band (inflatable type works well, there are also quick-release straps) to pinch the tire's tread circumference and spread the beads for seating. Seating beads requires an air compressor with an air tank reservoir and good air volume to pop the tire beads evenly onto the rim! You may need to raise the bottom of the rim from the ground with a block of wood or similar spacer to allow room for both sidewalls to seat...or if the beads are evenly spread, try standing the tire on its tread while applying air. In either case, release the band strap as soon as the tire beads seal air and the tire begins to inflate.
If there's enough interest, I'd pursue an HD video how-to of this process. I think this can be done on the trail with a minimal amount of equipment: the tools mentioned plus a kit with both tire puncture and carcass repair patches. A tire tube of the correct size could also be an emergency backup if the valve stem will fit through the rim hole.
If just a nail hole on a tubeless tire, a cord or plug repair, without dismounting the tire, can get you home. This is not my idea of a permanent fix, and I would likely make this either a spare tire or toss the tire out when back at civilization...Filing steel belt material and pushing a cord tool or plug through the tire's carcass can damage the structure and integrity of the tire's steel and other plies.