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Found 47 results

  1. I recently bought a 1990 Jeep YJ with 4 cyl 2.5 TBI engine. The jeep runs great except during warm-up. It starts fine and runs and idles well initially. As soon as the temperature gauge begins to climb off the 100 degree mark, the engine begins hunting and surging and usually stalls. If I push down on the accelerator and run it to 1000+ rpm, I can get the engine to heat up to operating temperature. At that point (~160-170F) the idle becomes stable again. So far I haven't done a lot of troubleshooting but have checked the EGR valve, changed rotor/cap, air filter, and fuel filter with no success. I'm wondering if it might be a bad O2 sensor that's slow to heat up which will be the next thing I check/replace. Any ideas or help is much appreciated!
  2. If you read this Moses, many thanks for your Dana 30 rebuild article, it's the only one I've found that helped me. Here is my problem in a rather large nutshell. 1995 YJ, 2.5 5spd. I had an axle seal leaking and bad lower ball joints so I figured it would be a great time to upgrade to 4:88 gears and 4340 axles since I am rolling 33-12.50's. I opened up the diff to find a recent but very poorly installed 4:56. The caps were on upside down and it had about .100" backlash so I am essentially starting from zero. The carrier bearings appear to be original so I am fairly sure the shims are close but I am making a set of test bearings for all positions. There were no shims behind the forward pinion race and only the slinger behind the bearing, probably the culprit of the massive backlash. The pre-load shims are another issue. It appears the installer used all the shims he had and all that were on it originally. The original shims (determined by some discoloration) stacked to .057", He or she added another .041" to stack out at .098". I can do all the setup and the new gears have the pinion depth marked so I know what to shoot for, my question is what ballpark the pre-load shim pack should be in to start the setup? If I read correctly, the torque for the pinion nut is 160-200 ft/lbs so I know if it gets too tight before I hit 160 there are too many shims and if it hits 200 and doesn't have enough pre-load, not enough shims. I would just like a good spot to start. I am using a Motive gear set if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance to whomever might be able to help. I'm sure the Dana 35 in the back is in similar condition so any help will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to mention how awesome it is to find a forum that is just simple and to the point without all the smells and bells to stagger my poor old Dell to a standstill!
  3. T-shooting an intermittent starting problem. About 80% of start-ups are perfect. When failing to start, it will turn over and over, but won't fire up. Sometimes starter fluid will cause it to fire up and then it runs fine, but that's only 50% effective. The rest of the time, only push-starting will work, but push-starting does work every time. Most obvious assumption is fuel problem, but fuel system checks out fine (replaced almost everything over time anyway). Ignition/electrical is fine. Also, the problem seems to be completely independent of outside and engine temperature. I started reading about ECU inputs, and discovered that during startup, an engaged WOT switch causes ECU to cut off fuel because ECU thinks it will flood the engine. The WOT switch is worn, but shouldn't prevent starting if disconnected. Would any other ECU inputs prevent fuel flow during start-up if their signals are outside normal limits? Service manual says during "Ignition On", CTS, MAT and MAP sensors begin providing input to ECU, but doesn't list MAT or MAP sensors during actual start-up. See attached page. So which sensors matter to ECU for start-up fuel supply calculations or decisions? Also, during push-starts, the ignition (key switch) is in the Run position, and not the Start position, which changes the ECU inputs, too. My shop has a DRB II diagnostics reader, but unless they hook it up when it happens to be misbehaving, shouldn't everything check out ok? Unfortunately, I've never been able to get it to fail at the shop. I also tried replacing the fuel relay. I also noticed that it is no longer cycling the ISA motor when it fails to start. It used to, but I can't figure out why it did that anyway. What are my next moves? Might be trying to oversimplify this, but what kind of intermittent problem would occasionally prevent a normal startup, but NEVER prevent a push-start from succeeding?
  4. I have a 1990 YJ and the intermittent wipers don't work I replaced the moter several months ago and just relaced the switch still no intermittent and it will not "park " the wipers to one side just where ever they are turned off any suggestions?
  5. Moses, your website has been extremely useful for me while working on my 1989 Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI engine. I have used it for testing just about everything on my jeep. I have replaced several items because of extremely high emissions. Today was the 4th pass through the test, and I finally passed my emissions test. I have replaced the ignition coil, ignition control module, spark plugs, cap and rotor and set the base timing, map sensor (because it did not hold vacuum), coolant temp sensor and my fuel injector. With all of that, my emissions finally were within spec. I am still having a loss of power issue with my jeep, and the only thing that helps is when I run Seafoam through the vacuum lines. It helps for about 2 days and then the same issue. Any ideas would be extremely helpful. One possible clue: The wide open throttle switch is in-op (cannot locate the part), and my throttle position sensor does not put out a signal if this helps any. Stinger87 (Josh)
  6. Hi, I have a 1988 Jeep Yj 2.5 with the renix computer. My last stop before I drive this thing off a cliff is here. I should have come here first. I hope one of you can help me. I love my Jeep but am so frustrated with it right now. Problem: Jeep is running super rich. I do not think it is ever coming out of closed loop. Points to know: - O2 sensor is recognizing that the jeep is rich. Volts sit between .94V and .99V JEEP RUNS AWESOME. No loss of power. No hesitation. Idles between 900 and 750 - Fuel smell coming from the tailpipe Emissions high on HC and CO Things I have tried: -Replaced o2 sensor -replaced fuel pressure regulator -replaced CTS replaced ISA replaced ECU replaced MAP Replaced MAT checked return fuel line for blockage. Had Head rebuilt. Vacuum was fluctuating and needed new valve guides. Was hoping this was impacting the MAP sensor. Nope I have gone through entire FSM diagnostic tree. The only thing that failed was the MAT sensor resistance never got down to 150ohms. Always stayed above 300. I even paid a mechanic $600 to try and uncover the problem. He confirmed it was not coming out of closed loop. Recommended changing the ECU. Which I did. I hope someone can help. Thank you all in advance. Carlos
  7. Moses and @biggman100 @BadDriver4x4 thanks for taking the time (a full year ago!) to respond to my inquiry. A little update: I found a mechanic out in Suffolk County, NY who is supposedly the local Jeep expert. I drove the hour to visit, nice guy, knows his stuff, but I think he was a bit un-enthused about me supplying all of my own parts, and he has a full schedule - and he knows that an picky, educated customer with a rusty Jeep is a bad value proposition! He never got back to me with a quote. Well, arm be damned, I decided to take my time and do the work myself. Some parts: - Full brakes (calipers/rotors, drums/cylinders, new soft lines) - Axles (front u-joints (Spicer), ball joints (Spicer), knuckles, hubs (Timken), bolts, lug nuts) - Susprension (Old Man Emu springs/bushings/shackles/u-bolts) - Steering linkages/links - Plus all-new hardware (McMaster), and MOPAR parts where they made sense or where they are still available. Besides the springs it is essentially stock, just a mild lift. - Lastly, some brand-new MOPAR lamps & lenses, and a nice new Made in USA "Softtopper": http://www.softopper.com/jeep-suv-tops/jeep-wrangler-yj So far I have taken her all apart and I am just about complete with rust removal & treatment (POR-15, I couldn't pass on the opportunity to tackle some rust - dropped the tank too). I am using a lot of Omix-Ada parts also, and am pleased with the quality. I also am impressed with the Centric calipers, which are nicely zinc-plated. The job is taking longer than anticipated (going on 3 weeks) but I can not wait to experience the difference, "before & after", after 230,000 hard miles. Cheers! Some photos here & attached: http://imgur.com/a/GXhzV
  8. Moses, thanks so much for responding. I’ve actually been following many of your posts and articles regarding tuning up the 2.5 TBI. I will check these posts you’ve listed and see where to go from there and provide feedback to this post. Regarding the 2nd issue (Loud sound) I’m really hoping that it’s what you say such as the driveshafts/splines and NOT my renewed motor or Tranny. The motor still goes on and sounds very smooth and the transmission changes gears smooth also. It makes sense that it is a driveshaft sound and how it Rocks the Jeep. For the first time in 27 years while driving it “kicked” and made a loud metallic sound and I felt as if I ran over some huge hole or rock. I could not tell if the sound came from the motor or transmission. But it jerked enough that my radio popped out of place. I stopped to check but there was no hole or rock. Everything under the Jeep was OK – no leaks, dents or missing axles. I really thought something fell off. But the Jeep kept going and the transmission changed fine and 4 minutes later it did again. Background – the motor was recently rebuilt because there was noise from bad piston rods and a bad blow-by problem. The rebuild was pretty good and the motor goes on nicely and idles at about 950RPM. I would really like to cure issue 1 while issue 2 scares the heck out of me. Here are more details on my setup: All driveshafts are original and there is no lift kit. But my tires are huge! I got them cheap and used along with the rims from a fellow worker. I thought they would look great but I also read that it takes a lot more work for the 2.5 Jeep to move them so I can’t go 5th gear unless it’s a pretty leveled highway. Up hill its mostly 3rd or 2nd gear now. Tire specs are 33 x 12.50 R15 (even though using a tape measure I get under 31” high). I lifted by adding 1.25” shackles and a mechanic who is good at bending leaf springs added 2” by bending the factory leaf springs. Only the rear springs. The rear drive-line length is 18.25” from transfer case to U-bolt and the Angle is about 23°. Is that clear info or do I need to measure differently? Other than that, there are no other modifications to chassis or driveshafts. I don’t think the front driveshaft may have made the noise since I wasn’t in 4x4. Is it still possible? Other things I will be checking are transfer and Axle fluids. I did have a front passenger side fluid leak. I’ve attached a picture of the tire. Thanks for your help.
  9. Hello, I have some trouble with mpgs, idling and acceleration on my Wrangler YJ 1995. 4.0. Recently went to a mechanic, he connected my PCM to a DRBIII scantool, and he told me that the adaptive factor is -80%. He did reset all adaptive memory, and I can feel improvement in mpg and acceleration. Is there any way to reset adaptive memory other than connecting it to a scantool? I've read on internet about touching positive and negative cables (or grounding postitve), that it empties the capacitors in PCM adaptive memory. The reason I'm asking this is because I don't have scantool available all the time, and that this error is due to a bad LPG map (I have converted this JEEP to propane).. So I would like to once again reset memory, and after PCM relearns to copy that map to a LPG controller so there would not be any differences.
  10. Hello I have a 1990 Jeep Wrangler 2.5l and I'm having a problem keeping it going it will start and I have to keep my foot in it to keep it going once I let off it will die does not idle then it will not start again what's my problem thanks?
  11. My Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L (MPI not TBI) engine has no fuel pressure when it cold. Installed a new fuel pump and pressure regulator, swapped relays. When the Jeep is parked inside it runs and has fuel pressure. When we put the gauge on to check fuel pressure at the rail, inside we get around 39 psi. When we let the Jeep sit outside overnight and check pressure we have none. Any ideas? Thanks.
  12. The buzzer doesnt come on any more when I put the keys in the ignition and the door is open. Same with the headlights! Is there a way to test the buzzer and its connector?
  13. Hello, first off let me begin by saying thank you to Moses for your site. It has helped me fix a lot of issues with my jeep. I have a 1988 jeep yj with the renix 2.5 tbi setup. The problem is that the jeep starts and runs but consistently spit, sputters and stalls. I can be driving down the road doing 55 mph and then it is like somebody turns the key off and back on again. it does this at idle as well. Things I have already done/replaced: new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, ign. Module, ign. Switch, and the cps. I have gone through and tested the coolant temp sensor (for the ecu), intake temp sensor, map sensor. Also pulled the wiring harness from the engine compartment and went through each individual wire with my multimeter to ensure that they were good. I did this under the dash as well and cleaned all grounds. The throttle body i rebuilt about 6k miles ago. New fuel filter and pump. I am at a loss at this point and i hope for some guidance. The only thing i can think of is the ecm is going out but not positive. Thank you for your help, and i look forward to your reply Thomas
  14. In the second pic I know the line at arrow #1 goes to the air cleaner. Can anyone tell me where #2 and #3 should go? first pic is just a close up of the connections in question. Thanks
  15. Looking for info on this swap... I have a air leak in my 83 CJ power brake booster, i need a new or reman booster of course but im thinking take the opportunity to upgrade (if it is one). Anybody done this YJ to CJ booster swap or have good info please share. thanks
  16. Hi, I've been dealing with an overheating behavior in my YJ 1989 Wrangler (4.2L with all emissions control hooked up except pulse air system, Carter BBD, Auto Trans). Long time ago I've replaced cooling fluid, It was 100% tap water that is the worst choice due to corrosion; so I decided to replace it by an ethylene glycol mix as you can find them ready to pour into your cooling system. I don't know if the coolant was poor quality but immediately after replacing the fluid I was getting the engine overheated. Perhaps it was air trapped in the system as the guy replacing the coolant did all the procedure really quick with the engine still warm... Well I had to go back to water again and the issue was solved. No more overheating during next days. Then I went wheeling several months after, when stopped the vehicle heared something like a pressurized air leak, it was the hose from the thermostat housing to the intake manifold, was cracked and ended up blown after I pulled it. So I shortened the hose and reinstall it again. Got home with overheating issues again. Bought all new hoses, including upper and lower radiator hoses. Heater was disabled so former owner plug the nipple coming from the water pump and the one on the back of the intake manifold as well, I didn't enable the heater yet but I have connected a hose between those two points to keep coolant flow through the manifold and cylinder head. Found that there was no thermostat installed, so installed one. Inspected water pump, a little bit of corrosion but the rotor and impeller was good, no play at the shaft. Refilled all the system with 50/50 mix and have to add some distilled water as I got short of coolant to top up the radiator. Fan clutch was replaced as well. I've been having random overheating, it is worst when A/C is turned on, obviously because the condenser is in front of the radiator. But sometimes runs good and the needle does not go above 210. I do not know where the needle it is supposed to be when the cooling system is working as it should. There are sometimes that random misfiring is happening, not too critical but I'm sure I'm not getting a perfect tuned engine. I've replaced the radiator cap just to discard this is the troublemaker. (13lb new one installed) Does the water to coolant swap have something to do with making debris and metal corrosion to become loose and start building a sediment inside the engine's block?
  17. Hi, I have a '89 Wrangler with the 2.5l. It pops/backfires back up through the intake whenever I give it throttle. There are no vacuum leaks. I have replaced every sensor. I have swapped out the PCM, no change. I have checked fuel pressure, 15 psi. At this point I found excessive play in the distributor when rotating the crank, so I pulled the timing cover and found the chain to be stretched, and the cam sprocket and crank sprocket timing marks were mis-aligned. Aha! I said, and replaced the timing set- I set the crank to #1 TDC on compression, rotated the cam forward so that the marks would line up properly, and installed the new set. After reassembly, I checked the distributor and made sure that it was pointing to 6 o'clock when the timing mark on the cover was at 0 BTDC. I then fired it up, and the issue remains. Backfiring through the intake. Could this be a camshaft or valve issue? What would be the next move?
  18. Hi Moses I purchased your AX-15 rebuild video on vimeo. I also downloaded the AX-15 service manual before I started this project. When I started this project it was supposed to be a simple clutch install. How ever when I removed the transmission from the Jeep which is a 93 YJ Sahara. I noticed that the pilot bearing had grenaded and part of the inner race had welded its self to the input shaft on the transmission. I figured since I will have to tear the transmission down to replace the input shaft I might as well do a full rebuild since I had noticed some grinding going into 3'd gear on occasion. I ordered a new input shaft, and full rebuild kit with bearings, seals, synchro rings and what not and began the process of doing the rebuild. I followed your video to the T and verified everything with the shop manual. I got everything rebuilt and installed back in the jeep and everything worked fine albeit a bit on the tight side. The transmission shifted with no issues smoothly for about the first 5 miles. I then parked the jeep over night and when I went to drive it the next day it would grind horribly trying to get into 4th gear and would not go into 4th at all. Even if I put the jeep in 4th and then started the motor and let the clutch out it would just pop right out of 4th. There is also now a subdued but high pitched whining noise from the transmission. Any idea on what could be wrong and why it worked fine until I parked it and then everything went to the birds? The Jeep has a new friction disc, Pressure plate, Pilot bearing, Throwout bearing, New bearings, synchro's, seals, shifter bushing and seal, Transfer case was rebuilt with new bearings, new chain, new range fork, new mode fork pads, slip yoke eliminator kit, New heavy duty rear driveshaft, new Ujoints in the front drive shaft. Front and rear diff fluid changed and sealed. Tons of work to get the driveline back into good shape and now the trans has started having problems it never had before.
  19. '91 YJ . Move the transfer case lever to 4h, the front axle engages and the indicator light comes on. All works fine at slow speeds, but as speed increases (toward 40 mph) the indicator light will flick off and then back on accompanied by "clunk" noise from the front and slight jerk felt in the chassis. Since the shift motor only has 2 vacuum lines, I assume that one applies vacuum for engagement and the other vacuum for disengagement. Both lines lead to the control switch on the transfer case. I suspect the control switch is failing. Any thoughts.
  20. We have a 1990 Jeep Wrangler YJ, 2.5, Throttle Body, 5 speed. Sometime when we shift gears and accelerate it chokes down, like it isn't getting enough gas. We have tried cleaning the Throttle Body, the crankshaft speed sensor, changed fuel filter, cleaned air cleaner and ran sea foam through it. It still does it. Also, sometimes, when you start it, it dies then it starts really hard, lots of cranking, it is almost like it floods. Any suggestions? Thoughts?
  21. I recently got a 1989 Jeep YJ that sometime in the past, had the Mopar 1994 FI conversion installed on the engine. While the Jeep came with a lot of documentation about the other work done on it, there was only one page concerning the FI conversion. The problem that I am running into is this: If the alternator is hooked up correctly, the engine won't turn off by using the key. If the alternator is not hooked up correctly (meaning that it's not charging) the key shuts off the engine. I thought that it might of been a bad ignition switch, but after changing out the ignition switch, the problem is still there. I have gone through the wiring, removing the old and abandoned wiring, also with no luck. I am wondering if someone knows where I can get the installation instructions and the wiring diagram for the 1994 FI conversion? I'd like more information on the FI conversion and also follow out some wiring to make sure someone didn't install a wire in the wrong place.
  22. I recently got a 1989 Jeep YJ that sometime in the past, had the Mopar 1994 FI conversion installed on the engine. While the Jeep came with a lot of documentation about the other work done on it, there was only one page concerning the FI conversion. The problem that I am running into is this: If the alternator is hooked up correctly, the engine won't turn off by using the key. If the alternator is not hooked up correctly (meaning that it's not charging) the key shuts off the engine. I thought that it might of been a bad ignition switch, but after changing out the ignition switch, the problem is still there. I have gone through the wiring, removing the old and abandoned wiring, also with no luck. I am wondering if someone knows where I can get the installation instructions and the wiring diagram for the 1994 FI conversion? I'd like more information on the FI conversion and also follow out some wiring to make sure someone didn't install a wire in the wrong place.
  23. Since the early 'sixties era of closed crankcase devices and the later carbureted engine emission controls era, owners have wondered whether to restore or eliminate devices. Aside from the legality issues, there are times when these devices have either little negative effect or may even provide some benefits. For those unaware, my answer to a Jeep CJ-7 owner's emissions modifications may help. I'd also add that Jeep pioneered the closed crankcase on the MB WWII model, and this equivalent to a PCV system eliminated the common road draft tube. An open road draft tube would have swamped these 134 L-head crankcases during stream crossings and beach landings. Often, emissions devices are neither bad nor detrimental to performance. In fact, they can even have positive effects as noted in my comments above... Moses
  24. Dear Moses First of all , a lot of compliments for your forum , where i found many useful info I am a recent italian owner of a wrangler YJ 2.5 TBI . The car has 185000 miles and run pretty fine , except for a irregular ride at low stable throttle opening : i.e. mantaining the engine stationary at 1500 or 2000 rpm (in 1st or 2th gear ) the car jerks and hiccups ; if accelerating and in wide open condition the engine response and power became ok. This happens in both cold or warm engine . The jeep is equipped with an alternative fueling system by Liquefied Petroleum Gas ( rather common in italy for saving reasons) , switching to LPG fuel the car run perfectly on all throttle conditions , and considering that LPG require a perfect ignition system , i exclude any spark system issue. The jeep is without O2 sensor and catalystic converter ( as far as i know this is a standard for '90 export in italy ) A list of checks done: - vacuum hoses \ PVC \ air intake sys \ EGR & canister solenoid \ wide open throttle switch - at idle or full open throttle all is ok , so i exclude fuel line , pump or filter issues . - injector spray patters seems good - no leakage or unrestrictions appears at exhaust or intake manifolds Can You kindly suggest where focus troubleshooting and address additional tests ? ( may be fuel pressure or TPS sensor ??? ) thanks in advance luca
  25. Members and Guests...We've had some great discussion on rebuilding the popular Aisin AX15 transmission, and my 'how-to' rebuild rental at Vimeo On Demand (http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild) has received solid feedback as a resource for shops and DIY level techs! I'm pleased to see many are able to successfully rebuild and thoroughly restore the AX15, made popular in 1989-1999 model year Jeep vehicles with the 4.0L engine. The AX15 transmission rebuild coverage and our discussion here at these forums also serve other applications of the AX15, including the Dodge Dakota, some Toyota truck models (and performance car applications) plus Isuzu and GM use. There are, however, instances when a transmission is simply not rebuildable. You do the teardown, follow my inspection guidelines or a factory shop manual, and discover that the wear exceeds any reasonable parts replacement costs...In these cases, we do have an outlet and sensible alternative: Advance Adapters and a new AX15 transmission! Note: Many owners have discovered that a "good used" transmission is an oxymoron for an off-road 4x4 vehicle that gets oversized tires and a lot of shifting either off-pavement or in city traffic. I'm not an advocate of buying "good used" unless you know the history of the donor vehicle. Any 1989-99 Jeep 4x4 transmission has seen more than enough use and is a candidate for my "blueprint rebuild" or a complete replacement. "Good used" can simply translate to "definitely used"! In the day, a BW T-18 or T-98, a GM SM420 or SM465, a New Process NP435 or other commercial grade, iron case "truck" transmissions (or the more contemporary NV4500 or NV5600) were often still in serviceable condition after the vehicle expired. That will not be the case with a used, higher mileage AX15 transmission, it will not provide long or reliable service as a high mileage used purchase. Optimistically, such a "core" might be rebuildable. I have worked closely with Advance Adapters' full line of transmission to transfer case adapters, Atlas transfer cases and other products for decades now. (We can thank Advance Adapters for its support at the magazine and these forums, too!) For many owners, the fatigue and normal wear of a powertrain provides the incentive for unique and popular upgrading of a 4x4 powertrain. In that arena, the Aisin AX15 has become the contemporary transmission of choice for stock 4.0L restorations and even swaps of moderate horsepower V-8 power into a Jeep 4x4 chassis. For horsepower to the 275-300 range (like an LS3 or a 4.6L Jeep inline six stroker) plus a useful overdrive gear, I consider a freshly and properly rebuilt AX15 as a prime candidate for a street/trail "build". These swaps or buildups do require either a rebuilt or new Aisin AX15. This contemporary transmission has also become the replacement for the later, expensive to rebuild 6-speed Jeep TJ Wrangler transmissions. Yes, a brand new AX15 transmission, ready for bolt-in replacement in Jeep and many Dodge Dakota, Toyota and Isuzu applications! These units are close ratio five-speeds (5th overdrive) that can bring new life into a higher mileage vehicle. They also deliver a desirable level of contemporary torque and stamina for moderate horsepower V-8 transplants where an overdrive is desirable. (These units even look great, click on these photos!) The exciting news is that you have the option of buying a new Aisin AX15. These units, available through Advance Adapters (a direct Aisin distributor), provide all of the legendary features and reliability found in new Jeep 4x4s from the Jeep YJ/TJ and XJ Cherokee era (or Dodge Dakota 3.9 V-6 models and other AX15 applications). Advance Adapters has a long reputation for serving the 4WD community, whether sponsoring enthusiast runs at Moab, Utah or supporting the off-road racing community. Advance Adapters maintains this approach with the pricing of these new Aisin AX15 transmissions. So, if your AX15 is either too worn for rebuilding or you're building a contemporary Jeep 4x4 project for the street/trail or off-road use, consider the Advance Adapters AX15 option! For more details, visit the Advance Adapters website at: http://www.AdvanceAdapters.com! Moses
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