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Found 56 results

  1. Hi Guys! I've scoured these pages the last couple days, but can't find anything that matches my specific dilemma. I have a 1990 Wrangler w/ 150k miles on it, recent acquisition by my future son-in-law. It was running relatively fine, but it quit suddenly on a recent trip. It started cutting out when hitting bumps, then finally quit altogether. After dragging it home, hitting the forums, swapping a few parts, following all the sensor tests and wrapping my head around this TBI setup, I am afraid I have a partially dead ECU. -All ignition parts replaced- Ignition Module, Coil, Wires, Cap and Rotor, Plugs. -The truck will crank the engine just fine, but has NO spark at coil or plugs, and NO gas at the injector. The fuel pump comes on with ignition switch for 1-2 sec, there is fuel in the line at the throttle body, I have not checked fuel pressure yet. -A new CPS was installed, I checked the CPS, 217 Ohms (slightly low), 0.54 VAC while cranking the engine. - All other sensors checked out nominal. There is 5 VDC to the TPS and MAP sensors, so the ECU is not entirely fried. -While tracing the sensor wiring, I found a wire broken internally between the CPS sensor and the ECU (red-white wire tied to pin 28), I'm guessing that was the root cause of the failure. I'm afraid the ECU board may have been damaged in the process of the wire failing while driving. -I am looking for information about what I should be seeing for the output signals for the Ignition Module and Fuel Injector from the ECU. I expect they will be low voltage AC pulses, grounding the DC power supplied to the Ignition Module and the Injector. I have not found any specifications for the AC voltage or pulse duration for either the Ignition at pin 27 or Injector at pin 21 of the ECU. I measured both of these signals while cranking the engine, I got ~0.1 VAC at the injector, and basically zero (0.004 VAC) at the ignition module output. These numbers lead me to believe that the output drivers for these functions are damaged or dead, although I can see no signs of physical damage, no burnt smell, melted traces, cracks, or corrosion anywhere in the ecu components. Is there any function programmed in the ECU which would completely shut down the spark- and injector-outputs based on some combination of other inputs for some safety reason ? Any info on the specific layout of components relating to the Ignition and Injector Drivers in the 1987-1990 ECU would be greatly appreciated! And Thank You to all who have gone before me here, the info trail has been invaluable!!
  2. I recently bought a 1990 Jeep YJ with 4 cyl 2.5 TBI engine. The jeep runs great except during warm-up. It starts fine and runs and idles well initially. As soon as the temperature gauge begins to climb off the 100 degree mark, the engine begins hunting and surging and usually stalls. If I push down on the accelerator and run it to 1000+ rpm, I can get the engine to heat up to operating temperature. At that point (~160-170F) the idle becomes stable again. So far I haven't done a lot of troubleshooting but have checked the EGR valve, changed rotor/cap, air filter, and fuel filter with no success. I'm wondering if it might be a bad O2 sensor that's slow to heat up which will be the next thing I check/replace. Any ideas or help is much appreciated!
  3. If you read this Moses, many thanks for your Dana 30 rebuild article, it's the only one I've found that helped me. Here is my problem in a rather large nutshell. 1995 YJ, 2.5 5spd. I had an axle seal leaking and bad lower ball joints so I figured it would be a great time to upgrade to 4:88 gears and 4340 axles since I am rolling 33-12.50's. I opened up the diff to find a recent but very poorly installed 4:56. The caps were on upside down and it had about .100" backlash so I am essentially starting from zero. The carrier bearings appear to be original so I am fairly sure the shims are close but I am making a set of test bearings for all positions. There were no shims behind the forward pinion race and only the slinger behind the bearing, probably the culprit of the massive backlash. The pre-load shims are another issue. It appears the installer used all the shims he had and all that were on it originally. The original shims (determined by some discoloration) stacked to .057", He or she added another .041" to stack out at .098". I can do all the setup and the new gears have the pinion depth marked so I know what to shoot for, my question is what ballpark the pre-load shim pack should be in to start the setup? If I read correctly, the torque for the pinion nut is 160-200 ft/lbs so I know if it gets too tight before I hit 160 there are too many shims and if it hits 200 and doesn't have enough pre-load, not enough shims. I would just like a good spot to start. I am using a Motive gear set if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance to whomever might be able to help. I'm sure the Dana 35 in the back is in similar condition so any help will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to mention how awesome it is to find a forum that is just simple and to the point without all the smells and bells to stagger my poor old Dell to a standstill!
  4. There is some play in steering wheel (precisely in steering gear box) and I have power steering. Its saginaw unit, and I've found that it has some adjusting screw on top of it and that by adjusting that screw I can reduce play. On the other hand, I've read that this should be done only after rebuilding complete unit and that adjusting it without rebuild could make elements inside bind and damage the unit. Can it be done or I need to rebuild it first? It has some 180.000 miles on it and no visible leaks on it nor on ps pump.
  5. I have a 1988 YJ 2.5L and am I right to assume that it has the AX5 tranny? If so, is there a kit available to convert from the internal clutch slave cylinder to an external? Is this something I should do? I believe the slave is working properly but the bearing is definitely making noise. I have less that 800 miles on the new (slave/throw-out) that was purchased at a local box store (oreilly's) and it's already making noises. Any suggestions or opinions are greatly appreciated. Steve
  6. T-shooting an intermittent starting problem. About 80% of start-ups are perfect. When failing to start, it will turn over and over, but won't fire up. Sometimes starter fluid will cause it to fire up and then it runs fine, but that's only 50% effective. The rest of the time, only push-starting will work, but push-starting does work every time. Most obvious assumption is fuel problem, but fuel system checks out fine (replaced almost everything over time anyway). Ignition/electrical is fine. Also, the problem seems to be completely independent of outside and engine temperature. I started reading about ECU inputs, and discovered that during startup, an engaged WOT switch causes ECU to cut off fuel because ECU thinks it will flood the engine. The WOT switch is worn, but shouldn't prevent starting if disconnected. Would any other ECU inputs prevent fuel flow during start-up if their signals are outside normal limits? Service manual says during "Ignition On", CTS, MAT and MAP sensors begin providing input to ECU, but doesn't list MAT or MAP sensors during actual start-up. See attached page. So which sensors matter to ECU for start-up fuel supply calculations or decisions? Also, during push-starts, the ignition (key switch) is in the Run position, and not the Start position, which changes the ECU inputs, too. My shop has a DRB II diagnostics reader, but unless they hook it up when it happens to be misbehaving, shouldn't everything check out ok? Unfortunately, I've never been able to get it to fail at the shop. I also tried replacing the fuel relay. I also noticed that it is no longer cycling the ISA motor when it fails to start. It used to, but I can't figure out why it did that anyway. What are my next moves? Might be trying to oversimplify this, but what kind of intermittent problem would occasionally prevent a normal startup, but NEVER prevent a push-start from succeeding?
  7. Well my power steering is on its last leg and screaming at me literally to be changed. I ordered a NEW pump and a serp belt and also the puller tool for the pulley. My main concern is to flush the system so I have all new fluid in there. whats the easiest way to go about this?
  8. Hi All, I've started this new topic as a result of my last nightmare, I mean, topic. Due to budget limits I have purchased a used Differential for the dana 35 and am going back to my regular size tires. You can see in the link below why this all came about. I've never done this repair but I have done a lot of DIY on my Jeep with good success. I'm looking into youtube and the forum for suggestions plus Moses is here with professional advice. I plan on starting tomorrow, just waiting on other parts. Feel free to add suggestions. Thanks.
  9. Moses, your website has been extremely useful for me while working on my 1989 Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI engine. I have used it for testing just about everything on my jeep. I have replaced several items because of extremely high emissions. Today was the 4th pass through the test, and I finally passed my emissions test. I have replaced the ignition coil, ignition control module, spark plugs, cap and rotor and set the base timing, map sensor (because it did not hold vacuum), coolant temp sensor and my fuel injector. With all of that, my emissions finally were within spec. I am still having a loss of power issue with my jeep, and the only thing that helps is when I run Seafoam through the vacuum lines. It helps for about 2 days and then the same issue. Any ideas would be extremely helpful. One possible clue: The wide open throttle switch is in-op (cannot locate the part), and my throttle position sensor does not put out a signal if this helps any. Stinger87 (Josh)
  10. Hi, I have a 1988 Jeep Yj 2.5 with the renix computer. My last stop before I drive this thing off a cliff is here. I should have come here first. I hope one of you can help me. I love my Jeep but am so frustrated with it right now. Problem: Jeep is running super rich. I do not think it is ever coming out of closed loop. Points to know: - O2 sensor is recognizing that the jeep is rich. Volts sit between .94V and .99V JEEP RUNS AWESOME. No loss of power. No hesitation. Idles between 900 and 750 - Fuel smell coming from the tailpipe Emissions high on HC and CO Things I have tried: -Replaced o2 sensor -replaced fuel pressure regulator -replaced CTS replaced ISA replaced ECU replaced MAP Replaced MAT checked return fuel line for blockage. Had Head rebuilt. Vacuum was fluctuating and needed new valve guides. Was hoping this was impacting the MAP sensor. Nope I have gone through entire FSM diagnostic tree. The only thing that failed was the MAT sensor resistance never got down to 150ohms. Always stayed above 300. I even paid a mechanic $600 to try and uncover the problem. He confirmed it was not coming out of closed loop. Recommended changing the ECU. Which I did. I hope someone can help. Thank you all in advance. Carlos
  11. Moses, thanks so much for responding. I’ve actually been following many of your posts and articles regarding tuning up the 2.5 TBI. I will check these posts you’ve listed and see where to go from there and provide feedback to this post. Regarding the 2nd issue (Loud sound) I’m really hoping that it’s what you say such as the driveshafts/splines and NOT my renewed motor or Tranny. The motor still goes on and sounds very smooth and the transmission changes gears smooth also. It makes sense that it is a driveshaft sound and how it Rocks the Jeep. For the first time in 27 years while driving it “kicked” and made a loud metallic sound and I felt as if I ran over some huge hole or rock. I could not tell if the sound came from the motor or transmission. But it jerked enough that my radio popped out of place. I stopped to check but there was no hole or rock. Everything under the Jeep was OK – no leaks, dents or missing axles. I really thought something fell off. But the Jeep kept going and the transmission changed fine and 4 minutes later it did again. Background – the motor was recently rebuilt because there was noise from bad piston rods and a bad blow-by problem. The rebuild was pretty good and the motor goes on nicely and idles at about 950RPM. I would really like to cure issue 1 while issue 2 scares the heck out of me. Here are more details on my setup: All driveshafts are original and there is no lift kit. But my tires are huge! I got them cheap and used along with the rims from a fellow worker. I thought they would look great but I also read that it takes a lot more work for the 2.5 Jeep to move them so I can’t go 5th gear unless it’s a pretty leveled highway. Up hill its mostly 3rd or 2nd gear now. Tire specs are 33 x 12.50 R15 (even though using a tape measure I get under 31” high). I lifted by adding 1.25” shackles and a mechanic who is good at bending leaf springs added 2” by bending the factory leaf springs. Only the rear springs. The rear drive-line length is 18.25” from transfer case to U-bolt and the Angle is about 23°. Is that clear info or do I need to measure differently? Other than that, there are no other modifications to chassis or driveshafts. I don’t think the front driveshaft may have made the noise since I wasn’t in 4x4. Is it still possible? Other things I will be checking are transfer and Axle fluids. I did have a front passenger side fluid leak. I’ve attached a picture of the tire. Thanks for your help.
  12. Hello I have a 1990 Jeep Wrangler 2.5l and I'm having a problem keeping it going it will start and I have to keep my foot in it to keep it going once I let off it will die does not idle then it will not start again what's my problem thanks?
  13. Hello, Once again I have this issue for like 3 years. Trans would not shift from 2nd to 3rd on slow speed by default, it would go into neutral and after I give some more throttle it would downshift to 2nd. If I get to 40 mph or similar, once I release throttle pedal it would shift to 3rd and after that everything works fine - no problem at any speed. So my guesses are that something is stuck in valve body or governor. Until now filter has been replaced, fluid flushed (was red even before flush), TV cable adjusted, bands adjusted. The reasons why I suspect on governor valve is that this seems to be related to vehicle speed. Why I suspect about it sticking is that once (or twice) times the trans gets into 3rd after driving at greater speeds, it will work fine until i turn of vehicle and leave it for 3-4 hours, sometimes less sometimes more. I also remember that once I got stuck in some pond and engine turned off because of hydrolock, so trans spent some time in water. After that the problem was gone, and it reappeared after two months. I immediately flushed trans that time but there was no water in it however. Could it be that there is some crud that block weights in governor and make it stuck sometimes? Am I missing something or the problem is probably governor? I've also noticed that when the car is cold (like if i leave it overnight) the trans shifts from 1st to 2nd at later rpm on same throttle applied (like shifts occur on 2100rpm when cold and bit below 2000 rpm when warm)
  14. I have a 1997 Jeep TJ Wrangler 4.0 with 171K miles on the clock. This mechanic at work is making me very nervous telling me that the oil pump on the 4.0L takes a dump between 150 and 200 thou miles and I should be aware of this..Im a worrier and he's got me going now. Anybody have any input on this and what I should do? the engine runs great. When I start it cold it has 50 lbs oil pressure. when its warmed up its 40 while driving and 20 sitting at a light. Sounds normal to me but have any of you had issues with the oil pump? He says when it goes its too late..New motor time..
  15. So I did a trans service on my 1997 TJ. Filter new oil etc. I noticed a leak in one of the lines going to the radiator. I bought a kit on ebay. Hosses, lines and hardware, im really not looking forward to messing with the lines on the trans. The leak is further teard the rad along the frame. So my thinking is to cut the lines up to the bad part and put the new lines via brass fittings. That would be so much easier. My delema? I dont know and cant find anywhere the size of the lined so I can buy fittings beforehand. Can anyone help me with this or has anyone ever changed the lines on the trans without having to waste a whole day!? After the second service in 3 mos. and a adj on bands the trans is shifting very well hopefully it will last. Any help on the line size or what im getting into if I bother with lines on tran would be very helpfull. Thx guys... bigwheel53
  16. This is driving me nuts..The display on my radio does not light up. A couple of times it came on but now its been off for good I think. The orange wire is the illumination wire and it has no power to it. All the buttons and backlighting work with the dimmer switch..even the radio works but no display because this orange wire..I don't want to start cutting the harness up to find out where the source is. Does anyone know where this orange wire comes from? The light switch ? the ignition switch? All the fuses are good. Could it be a ground wire somewhere? I just want everything to work normally..Im not a big radio fan,just want to hear the news etc. but I don't know what station im on lol
  17. I bought this 1997 TJ a couple of months ago with 168 thou on it and am trying to get it up to snuff. Needed a fuel pump { hard to start } now it starts great. So I figured lets do a trans service. I dropped the pan and just what I suspected it hasn't been serviced in a Looooonnnng time. It had some friction material in pan,the oil was like mud and the magnet looked like a hairy spider.It also slipped from second to third pretty bad. I put a new filter and a deep sump pan that holds two more qts of fluid. I also adjusted the bands. Shifted pretty good but with a slight slip from 2-3rd. I changed the oil 3 more times, pretty expensive and now its red all the time but a rebuild is in the back of my mind. Im going in again and change the filter and re adjust the bands. I saw a video about changing the accumulator spring. the teck made it look easy just drop the plate and change the spring to help any shifting problems. Say it should be part of tranny maint. Has anyone had any experience doing this and what the result was?? Im really trying to keep this trans alive before I drop 1800 for a complete rebuild. I think the jeep is worth it.. No rust at all on frame or the body. im the third owner and the first two knew each other and the jeep was garage kept all its life...The frame and bod are in awesome shape..Any input on this spring thing would help. I would like to change it while I have the pan down if I can..thx..bigwheel53
  18. My Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L (MPI not TBI) engine has no fuel pressure when it cold. Installed a new fuel pump and pressure regulator, swapped relays. When the Jeep is parked inside it runs and has fuel pressure. When we put the gauge on to check fuel pressure at the rail, inside we get around 39 psi. When we let the Jeep sit outside overnight and check pressure we have none. Any ideas? Thanks.
  19. So this is a wierd one, I've looked and looked on the Internet and can't figure it out. My jeep wrangler runs and drives just fine but there is no cel on start up. I know there should be code because I have no 02 sensors hooked up. I want to know if there is more though. Any help would be appreciated
  20. The buzzer doesnt come on any more when I put the keys in the ignition and the door is open. Same with the headlights! Is there a way to test the buzzer and its connector?
  21. Hello, first off let me begin by saying thank you to Moses for your site. It has helped me fix a lot of issues with my jeep. I have a 1988 jeep yj with the renix 2.5 tbi setup. The problem is that the jeep starts and runs but consistently spit, sputters and stalls. I can be driving down the road doing 55 mph and then it is like somebody turns the key off and back on again. it does this at idle as well. Things I have already done/replaced: new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, ign. Module, ign. Switch, and the cps. I have gone through and tested the coolant temp sensor (for the ecu), intake temp sensor, map sensor. Also pulled the wiring harness from the engine compartment and went through each individual wire with my multimeter to ensure that they were good. I did this under the dash as well and cleaned all grounds. The throttle body i rebuilt about 6k miles ago. New fuel filter and pump. I am at a loss at this point and i hope for some guidance. The only thing i can think of is the ecm is going out but not positive. Thank you for your help, and i look forward to your reply Thomas
  22. Greetings from Northern Michigan, I am in the process of building a stroker for a 2002 TJ. I need to check the pushrod length. The engine is still on the stand. Do I need to prime the lifters to get the proper pre-load? Thanks so much, Jake
  23. In the second pic I know the line at arrow #1 goes to the air cleaner. Can anyone tell me where #2 and #3 should go? first pic is just a close up of the connections in question. Thanks
  24. Hi im from the Netherlands,. (So sorry for my bad English) and got a problem with a 89 jeep wrangler The jeep gots a 4,2 6cilinder with I guess a 32rh transmission the transmission pump has eating the converter ;) so the converter was rebuild, en a another pump mount, but I've changes also the clutch plates and seals after a everything was assembled : the car drives 1&2 gears perfect but the 3rd gear late, and. Cold very late. The reverse was slipping, so I've put everything out (again) and checks the front clutch, I've thought the inner seal of the front clutch was not right, after a new seal, and everything together the reverse works great! but still the 3rd gear is late and sometimes gone... ive tried another valve body, but doesn't help anything well did I see the rear band is going worn??? and went I put the front clutch on the pump and do a air check with 30psi the air is leaking between pump reaction shaft and the clutch housing but the front clutch sealing rings are new short: why does my rearband and rear drum go worn why does the 3rd gear shift so late/ is it usually that it leaks between reaction shaft and clutch by 30 psi? thanks Bas
  25. Hi, I have a '89 Wrangler with the 2.5l. It pops/backfires back up through the intake whenever I give it throttle. There are no vacuum leaks. I have replaced every sensor. I have swapped out the PCM, no change. I have checked fuel pressure, 15 psi. At this point I found excessive play in the distributor when rotating the crank, so I pulled the timing cover and found the chain to be stretched, and the cam sprocket and crank sprocket timing marks were mis-aligned. Aha! I said, and replaced the timing set- I set the crank to #1 TDC on compression, rotated the cam forward so that the marks would line up properly, and installed the new set. After reassembly, I checked the distributor and made sure that it was pointing to 6 o'clock when the timing mark on the cover was at 0 BTDC. I then fired it up, and the issue remains. Backfiring through the intake. Could this be a camshaft or valve issue? What would be the next move?
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