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Found 25 results

  1. Here is 1987-90 Jeep YJ Wrangler and Jeep XJ Cherokee/MJ Comanche 2.5L TBI diagnostics information in PDF form. The first document includes all sensor and switch tests plus adjustments that affect engine tune, idle and reliability. Wiring schematics and ECU pin locations, test plugs and diagnostics included. Jeep 2.5L TBI Complete Diagnostics-Sensors-Switches.pdf Jeep 2.5L TBI ECU Inputs and Outputs.pdf Jeep 2.5L TBI MAP Sensor Test.pdf Jeep 2.5L Timing Chain and Tensioner.pdf Jeep 2.5L Valve Timing Check.pdf Jeep YJ 2.5L TBI Sensors and Pinout.pdf YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI Wiring of WOT to ECU.pdf Jeep YJ 2.5L ISA Wiring Diagram.pdf 1987-90 2.5L TBI Intake Manifold and Sensors.pdf 1987-90 YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI Emissions System Parts.pdf YJ Wrangler Fuel Filter and Guard.pdf 2.5L TBI ISA Motor Adjustment.pdf Used in conjunction with the many forum exchanges (search under "All Content" and "2.5L TBI" in the search box), plus the Jeep 2.5L TBI troubleshooting article at the magazine website, this information will help solve your Jeep YJ Wrangler or XJ Cherokee 2.5L TBI troubles. In references, the Model 81 is the Jeep YJ Wrangler. The Model 60/70 is the XJ Cherokee and MJ Comanche Pickup. Moses
  2. First, a little background. I am not a mechanic, nor am I exceptionally knowledgeable about engine repair, and certainly not restoration or replacement. I have a moderate level of experience with automotive repairs and know my way around a toolbox. I have little limitation in finance and time. Now, for my question. Essentially, I'm just wondering how possible/practical it is to fully restore a somewhat older vehicle. And i don't mean an engine rebuild. I mean literally remove every piece and replace it with a new one. Every. Little. Piece. Regardless of price/time constraints, is it possible to do this? To literally have an old body/frame but entirely new vehicle? If so, what are some potential difficulties/issues that may be present? How much would a project like that generally cost? Any tips or recommendations you might have for me as far as brands and such go? Thanks all for taking your time to help me out! *Note: For some context/additional information, I'd like to complete this project on an old 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport
  3. I'm excited to share the latest development from Cummins and Advance Adapters: the R2.8L Cummins Repower diesel crate engine conversion for Jeep® and other 4x4s! At the 2016 SEMA Show, Steve Roberts (Advance Adapters) and Steve Sanders (Cummins Repower program) detailed the engine conversion and discuss highlights of this high tech diesel engine in our HD video interview. In the video, you'll discover why I'm so pleased with this development. The initial Cummins Repower focus is 50-State legal emission status for vehicles through 1999, which will include Jeep® CJ, XJ, ZJ, WJ and vintage vehicles plus Toyota FJ40, Land Rover, vintage Bronco, Scout/Scout II and others. Of course, the Jeep® JK Wrangler is on the radar screen, however, emission legal requirements will be met before releasing a package for the later model range. We're planning a pilot installation of the R2.8L Cummins diesel engine package into the magazine's 1999 XJ Cherokee during 2017. Enough power? In Brazil this modern CRD high-tech diesel engine is fitted into F350 Ford trucks and school buses. Enough fuel efficiency? Stand by, we'll be testing and confirming mileage soon! See the complete article that accompanies the HD video at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/advance-adapters-and-cummins-2-8l-diesel-engine-conversion-for-jeep/ Go Cummins Repower and Advance Adapters! Moses
  4. I'm at my wits end troubleshooting my lil 2.5L engine. I googled and found your page from about a year ago. 1990 jeep wrangle 25l engine timing. Today I thought about timing. It misses, like running on only 2 cylinders when at low speed and and only pulling slightly. As I move into mid and upper rpm range it stops missing. I still do not have much acceleration but at least it stops missing. I've check and/or changed every sensor it has. TPS is only rough since I have not gotten my laser tach to work yet. In checking fuel I have only 10 psi so I know that's a problem. This started about a month after the SMOG guy changed the O2 sensor to pass smog. I've check the voltage when hot and it's within spec. I also had massive exhaust gasket leak so I cleaned the surfaces and replace the gasket. I'm a machine mechanic from way back in the Navy so I'm not just a new mechanic. I just can't quite figure this one out. I'll check timing tomorrow. Lowell
  5. Thanks for the engine information. Ok .... update for today. I'm really not finding a vacuum leak and before I build a smoke machine there's been this gnawing in the back of my mind to check the valve timing. I found this pdf manual http://oljeep.com/JeepEngines.pdf and on page 63 it tell how to check valve timing. So I removed all the plug, it was easier to rotate by removing all the rocker bridges, set up a dial indicator on the #1 intake push rod and checked .... Hmmm the dial moved .010 but I don't see the index mark anywhere (????) ... oh, there it is 3 inches to the left, or 3 inches BTDC ... really???? Guess I'll pull the timing cover and check it out.
  6. Trying to switch from a manual to a auto in a 96 xj. Needing to know what all I need to do other than bolt up. New computer? Different bell housing ? Also what would be the best tranny to use for this auto. It is strictly a off road toy
  7. Recently, I've found time to catch up on some XJ Cherokee care. Our '99 had issues with the power window/door lock system, the A/C dash panel air flow and the "No Bus" gauge drop-off problem. Each of these problems is common to the XJ Cherokees and TJ Wranglers, making forums all over the internet. On our Cherokee, I worked through the troubleshooting and solutions for each. If your Jeep XJ Cherokee or TJ Wrangler is experiencing erratic dash panel air flow with the heater or A/C controls set to different positions, you'll want to check out this new article at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Air-Conditioning-Fix.html. Another symptom to consider is the cruise control and the A/C and heater panel settings not working when you're climbing a grade with the Jeep. I made the Chrysler TSB #24-12-99 available as a PDF download. This is one cure, but it did not apply in our case... If your power windows, door locks and remote door lock control are not operating properly, you'll want to see my recent article: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Jeep-Cherokee-Power-Window-and-Door-Lock-Switch-Replacement.html. This includes troubleshooting symptoms and the actual replacement of a door switch module. If your dash instruments suddenly drop-off to zero with the engine running or on the road, or if the "No Bus" signal appears at the instrument panel with erratic gauge activity, you may have the electrical connector issue that I address in the article: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-XJ-Cherokee-Erratic-Gauges-Fix.html. This how-to goes into detail about the problem, the parts involved and the fix, including soldering a new plug and wires into the dash panel circuit. I even included a PDF of the Chrysler/Jeep TSB #08-15-99 on this problem for both the Jeep XJ Cherokee and TJ Wrangler. Having troubles in these areas? Check out the three new articles at the magazine. Another issue is the rear door latch and having to press the outside door release button with great force to open the door. Possible remedy: There is a slot on the rear facing edge of the door that has an adjustable slide for the door button. Work the button and watch this lever move. You can loosen the Torx screw and move the lever/button adjuster to allow for a full throw of the outside handle button when you press the button. This and some white lithium spray lube at pivot points of the latch mechanisms can have your "defective" rear door latches functioning as new! Moses
  8. I have both a 2001 and 1999 XJ (4DR, manual, 4.0L engine). The rocker panels on the driver's side of both cars are rusted through--common problem, I think--and I'm plotting a repair. It's not something I can do myself (don't know how to weld), and I'm willing to spend some money to get this done right. I see a wide variety of 3rd-party solutions to this problem, and wonder what the readers of this board might recommend who've actually done it. Thanks.
  9. Hi! Moses< How are you? Can you give suggestion how to improve the performance of th jeep xj 2.5 if i install bigger tires ,also what are the things needed. Please advice Thank you. Cheers: Mario Bedayo
  10. HI! Moses < How are You Happy New Year...Can i ask your recommendation, . What model year cherokee xj that will fit for me for daily driving and sometimes off roading but not extreme. is the mnaul trans is good or automatic ? please advice me Thanks Cheers: Mario Bedayo
  11. I'm looking at Jeep XJ Cherokees for a possible build-up and light four-wheeling. Jp Magazine (May 2013 issue) rates used Cherokees from best to worst. Here is their ranking: '98 - '991/2 '00 and '01 with a manual '91-'94 '87-'90 '95-'96 Do others agree with this?
  12. Moses I have fallen into an opportunity to purchase a 1976 Jeep Cherokee Chief for a reasonable price and would like your "What to look for" advice. The truck is in regular use and makes 200 mile trips hauling a family to camping trips several times a year. They just need a larger vehicle as they now have to take two SUV's to get everbody there, As I said, it is a 1976 but with several upgrades, some I like, some I don't know yet. V8 360, factory 2 Bbl. 2150 carb with 727 AT and Twin Stick Dana 300 transfer case,. 4" Spring lift with proper shocks etc. and 33-12.50X15 AT Tires. AC works but has small leak, easy enough t fix.. Non original front seat, but all else is original. Very rust free but has had front floor pans replace in the past. The power back window works well also.. From what I can find, the Dana 300 was not stock in 76, but could be a very good upgrade due to its strength, not that I am going to do serious offroading. I am going to look at it this weekend and taking a buddy who has rebuilt one Chief and just bought another for a rebuild, so will have some expertise with me. I also bought a 2006 LJ with 47K miles that I am going to sell as I do not like the newer Jeeps compared to my CJ7.. Your comments please, Thanks, Gene
  13. Hi 4WD Mechanix, I love the site and am so happy you are fielding questions from common folk like me! Your troubleshooting guide for the 2.5L TBI helped me turn my limping MJ into a reliable daily driver! Current set-up: 1987 MJ, 2.5L with AX-4 manual transmission, 2WD. Future: I want to convert to the multi-port FI. I have all the equipment, ECU, harness, manifold, etc., from a donor engine. Question: Do I need to change the RENIX flywheel to the MPFI flywheel? I have the MPFI flywheel on my work bench (the RENIX is in the truck), but whether the flywheel needs to be change will affect when I do the various upgrades. A flywheel change requires me pulling the engine. Thanks again!
  14. Is there a manual transmission that can handle an 800 horsepower racing Jeep 4.0L stroker engine? I need a 2- or 3-speed only transmission.
  15. The magazine had the opportunity to test Pulstar® spark plugs in the 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4.0L. These unique spark plugs received our extensive testing in the XJ Cherokee and the two Honda dirt motorcycles. The plugs work optimally with both gasoline and natural gas engines. The magazine article is available at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Testing-the-Enerpulse-Pulstar-Spark-Plugs.html. We will continue testing and discussing these spark plugs at the magazine and these forums! Here are our findings with the XJ Cherokee: 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4x4 4.0L—This inline six-cylinder engine is nearly stock. The addition of a Borla header, Random Technologies' performance catalytic converter and the Hypertech 'Max Energy' program tuning are the only modifications. The vehicle's approximate curb weight of 3,800 pounds with a Warn front winch and an aftermarket ARB front bumper and Warn rear heavy duty bumper. The axles have 4.10:1 ring and pinions to compensate for the 33" diameter tires and a 6-inch long-arm suspension lift. Prior to testing with the Pulstar® spark plugs, this vehicle operated with Bosch spark plugs that burned well with a fully functional ignition and EFI/MPI system. There were no issues with ignition misfire or EFI fuel supply problems, and this engine has normal, uniform compression and cylinder seal. The change to Pulstar® plugs gapped to factory 0.035" was the only change made for this test. We waited for the first tank of fuel to burn through before making comparisons. At that point there were several distinct improvements: 1) Better tip-in throttle response at any road speed and under heavy acceleration. 2) Less throttle needed to sustain normal "cruise" road speeds. 3) Less downshifting on grades with cruise control applied. Acceleration improved with both forced and cruise control downshifts. 4) Distinct improvement in fuel efficiency; approximately one mile per gallon improvement (5.5%) under "city" and "highway" or interstate test conditions. 5) Starts immediate; this engine has always started well. Details and actual spark plug installation coverage can be seen in the HD video: Moses
  16. My 1987 Cherokee 4.0 liter is misfiring when started but when I have clutch depressed it runs fine. Does any one have any ideas? I think a bad TPS but don't want to throw money at something that won't fix it!
  17. Has anyone used the Novak conversion kit to install a 5.3 LS into an XJ Cherokee? They have the whole package including updating the wiring harness and GM computer along with the XJ computer.
  18. In 1984, AMC/Jeep® took its unitized body and 4x4 technology into the XJ Cherokee platform. This breakthrough compact SUV became the best selling model of its era and made the AMC sale to Chrysler profitable. These models and the subsequent Jeep ZJ and WJ Grand Cherokees feature beam axles front and rear, two-speed transfer cases and rugged engine packages, making them candidates for off-road upgrades and 4x4 trail use...Welcome to the XJ Cherokee and ZJ/WJ Grand Cherokee community at 4WD Mechanix Magazine!—Moses Ludel At left is a ZJ Grand Cherokee equipped to tackle the Moab Area BFE course! Reno Off-Road Motorsports Expo (center) is one more place to see the owner enthusiasm for the XJ Cherokee! At right, the magazine's 1999 XJ Cherokee multi-tasks, pulling the Caravan trailer and our XR350R Honda dirt motorcycle!
  19. I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee 1996 stroker six with these specification: - High compression pistons - CompCams camshaft #68-239-4 with lifters, valve springs, retainers, etc. - Three-into-one header Currently, I have a Hypertech program with a Unichip rev limiter module on the way. I want the most powerful computer and am considering these options: Superchips - SCT Computer - Jet Performance Stage 2 module Which is the strongest module?
  20. This topic is new member Sparky1's question...I moved the discussion here, as this is a Jeep XJ Cherokee topic that will be of interest to many...Thanks for participating at the forums, Sparky1, we look forward to your involvement! In response to Sparky1's original question (in the next post), I haven't done this swap, but here's what I do know...The later model Jeep vehicles feature a security/anti-theft interlock system that ties the steering column/key functions to the powertrain management system. This matches the vehicle's VIN to the key lock mechanism, actually useful. When I toyed with the idea of a Liberty diesel engine swap into our 1999 XJ Cherokee (like your XJ), informed sources at Chrysler shared that this could only be done with a PCM match to the steering column. The standard route was to install the recycled engine, its PCM and the steering column from the same donor vehicle. So, I would suspect that the JK Wrangler steering column has ties to its PCM, and the PCM for a JK would drive a 3.8L or 3.6L V-6, not your inline 4.0L Jeep six. That's what I do know, others may have more insight here... As a footnote, I also know that the late JK Wrangler steering wheel is very cool! Moses
  21. I have a 1994 Jeep XJ Cherokee with an AX5 manual transmission and 2.5L four-cylinder engine. I would like to convert to an automatic transmission and have a 1989 XJ Cherokee donor vehicle with an automatic. The '94 XJ has 3.73 axles, was originally a 2x4, now is a 4x4, auto trans is an AW4. The '89 XJ Cherokee is a 4.0L six. Both 4x4s have the NP231 transfer case. Is this even possible to do the swap on? I do have the complete donor XJ all electronics as well. Manual in the '94 came from an '85 2.8L, the axles came from an '86 2.5L, the transfer case came from a '87 4.0L all manual trans equipped. So is this swap even possible to accomplish? David
  22. The magazine's 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4x4 is typical. Having minimal trail strain, the Jeep 4.0L Sport runs reliably and quite happily at 140K plus miles...Some would say the Jeep is just broken-in now... In fact, 4.0L Jeep Wrangler, XJ Cherokee/MJ Comanche and Grand Cherokee models do benefit from preventive care, just like any other vehicle. Regular service can make the difference between a 150K-160K lifespan and the legendary 300K mile XJ Cherokees. So, what's in need of attention on our XJ Cherokee? What will I be doing soon? Well, the right front door's window and door lock switch is defunct. I found the switch online: Mopar #56009451AC for 1999 XJ Cherokee, 4WD left hand drive, 4-door, the right front/passenger door. Cost is just under $75, including S&H. Expect an update, I'll likely do a how-to video for the magazine, covering the switch installation along with a tour of the door's inner mechanisms and the power window regulator! Then, there's the dashboard gauge quirk, sudden "zero" of the gauges, especially if the Cherokee sets for more than a bit in the sun...There's a factory TSB on this one, and I have the Mopar service kit (very inexpensive) waiting on my work bench for installation. Since the dash and gauge panel require removal, I'm saving that 'how-to' for when the weather is balmy and time is on my side. The twin Spal fans have worked flawlessly since installation with the Griffin upgrade radiator. I set the fans to run after ignition shutoff, dropping coolant temp to 185-degrees F before restart. After replacing the battery, I'm more conscious about the two-minute or so drain following engine shutoff in hot weather. I'll take the time to rewire the fan trigger relays for Key-On only operation. Not surprising for a 4.0L AMC inline six, the Cherokee's engine could benefit from a new rear main seal, but I would rather do that major chore during a 4.6L stroker motor buildup—if/when the time comes...Simply changing to 10W-40 in the summer has staved off the mild drip or two after parking. There's no measurable oil consumption, so this is more a nuisance and strain on the driveway cement over time. I use a drip pan when parked in the carport. Shocks, 6-inch long arm suspension and steering damper are doing well for the moment. BFG tires are new and balanced, I do rotate regularly, so the wheels are good. I will do a rear brake shoe service 'how-to' for the benefit of Jeep owners, the rear brakes are original and could use replacement lining and wheel cylinder attention. I always vacuum purge the hydraulic system of old brake fluid during this service and may consider a D.O.T. 4 replacement brake fluid after confirming its compatibility. You'll like the 'how-to', probably in HD video, when I do this job... Caution: You cannot use D.O.T. 5 silicone-based fluid in a system that has any remnant of D.O.T. 3 or 4 fluid. D.O.T. 5.1 has a lower silicone content and is sometimes tolerated by non-silicone brake systems. My rule of thumb: Don't get "creative" here. The safe bet for an XJ Cherokee is D.O.T. 3 when specified, D.O.T. 4 if compatible. Read the owner's manual or the fluid reservoir cap. Use the specified brake fluid...If you're concerned about the 'hygroscopic' (water bonding) nature of D.O.T. 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluids, flush or vacuum the fluid through the system with fresh brake fluid—periodically. Still have questions? Post them, and I'll reply! The air conditioning works but could use a recharge. That's another how-to for the magazine. I'd like to share how doing this chore properly can save a bundle in repairs and also make your A/C like new. Stay tuned, it's summer, and I'm motivated! Overall, the Jeep XJ Cherokee has been the least expensive to keep utility 4x4 we've ever owned. No point in taking advantage of such a vehicle, it does deserve better! Moses
  23. The modern 4WD era, and the dawn of luxury SUV 4x4s, began with Kaiser's introduction of J-trucks and Wagoneers. Beginning in the early 'sixties, consumers and commercial users discovered that driving a "truck" was no longer a hardship. The Wagoneer eventually evolved into the luxurious Grand Wagoneer, V-8 powered with every power and accessory option known to town cars of the era. The Gladiator pickup became the AMC/Jeep Pickup, a J-series chassis that used the best powertrain and geartrain products available in the industry...This forum is for Gladiator/J-truck, full-size Cherokee and Wagoneer/Grand Wagoneer owners and enthusiasts. Share your interests, technical insights, troubleshooting and more at this forum!—Moses Ludel The FSJs are often restored or modified—they also serve as an inspiration for a "Mopar concept vehicle"—with a contemporary chassis and powertrain upgrades!
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