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Found 13 results

  1. I inherited a 66cj5 and in time I'd like to restore it, let's say "High hopes!". As far as I can tell there have been no modifications, stock replacement of parts. For now Id rather keep the engine/ ignition/ suspension stock. This may well be a play toy for the wife and I, mild but little wheeling. There are a few things that need attention. First is the wiring, it's been butchered. So is there a source for a direct replacement harness? Second, Tires and Wheels. Im looking at 235 75r 15 tires with some aftermarket rims. My only concern is the way the jeep is geared, is that tire TOO big of a diameter. Seats to be replaced. Oh and the color WILL BE CHANGED!!!! LOL
  2. I have a passion for old stake bed trucks and Jeep FSJ trucks. I just stumbled across a 1963 Jeep Gladiator stake bed truck for sale. I've been catching myself daydreaming about doing a restoration on such a truck both as a show piece (or as close to a show piece as a working truck can be, "parade vehicle" at its best might be a better label) as well as something to use for moving firewood and whatever else I come across that I need to haul. Here is a photo of the truck: I already have my hands full with earlier Jeep projects. Long story short, I guess as much as I want this Gladiator, it may not be practical. Maybe if it was a dually I could make an exception! Just to satisfy my curiosity though, do you know how rare these were? I know that the 1963 MY was the first for these trucks, so if this is truly a 1st year factory stake bed all original pickup, is it a hard to find pieces or were there more made than I realize? As much as I love FSJ trucks, I still have a lot to learn about their history. Bill
  3. Ok, next question. Will a ax15 from a 93 yj work with the 88 renix as long as I have the bell housing? I have the clutch and fly wheel from the ba 10 that was on it. Also, will the hydraulic clutch system from my T4 work with that trans.? I guess you all could tell but I have very few mechanics skills but I am mechanical so Im trying to figure this stuff out as I go. There are very few mechanics and no junk yards within 100 miles so it is difficult for me to grab a donor vehicle. This means I need to know what Im getting into before I commit to higher dollar items. Thanks for any help you can give.
  4. So I am in the process of a total restoration on my 67 CJ5 v6 225 and have reached the transmission rebuild. I found a damaged first/reverse sliding gear and cluster gear. Question is should I pay the high cost of the t86 gears ( cluster $ 220.00 / first gear $ 125.00 ) or do I find t-90 parts and convert it? The first gear is almost impossible to find, I only found one after a week of searching. I would have to find used T-90 parts to make it cost effective but then there are no guarantees I will spend less to convert than to just get the t-86 parts. I do not plan on abusing the jeep off road when done. Also can I get away with grinding the teeth of the first sliding gear ( bottom photo ) a bit to dress them up rather than replacing ? The other side of gear not shown is good. Thoughts ? Damaged parts:
  5. There you go, Moses! It's going to be my first attempt at an engine rebuild... Starting the tear down. This Jeep spent most of its driving life on a tow bar being towed to NY for the hunting season. The engine has very low actual miles on it.
  6. Member Spdljohn began a brake and chassis frame-off restoration topic that has now expanded into discussion of the use of a shackle reversal kit on a 1976-86 Jeep CJ-5, CJ-7 or Scrambler/CJ-8. Below is the topic thread that member Spdljohn began...Join us and share your experience with the shackle reversal kit! Moses
  7. Hey I enjoyed the compressor story! Today I was able to start disassembling the transfer case I followed your procedure and took some photos. The impact driver worked great on the yoke nuts and to be honest most of what I disassembled today was very easily done. I have to admit once I learned the new to me transfer case nomenclature it went very well, I'm having fun. I noticed that the intermediate shaft had some wear, I could feel where the gears rode on the shaft. The gear teeth that I can see so far aren't showing any sign of wear I hope some of the photos will show. In the first photo the bushing on the left looks rough on the outside.
  8. While waiting for the transmission parts to come in I disassembled the Transfer case. It went pretty easy. The only issue I had was when I removed the intermediate shaft I could not remove the intermediate gear as the book says I could. I had to wait until I slid the main shaft back a bit to remove the gear. The intermediate gear hit the side of the case. Not sure what I did wrong . I tried it in every gear.
  9. Hello out there! I found this forum recently and decided that I would like to do some work on a 1984 CJ 7. I will need tons of help. To begin with I have a hard time shifting from 2H to 4H to 4L and all in between. Most likely due to the fact that the Jeep is 30 years old, and likely no one has looked at the oil level in the transfer case! I have posted a couple of pictures to ask for help in identifying the transfer case on my CJ. I think it is a Dana 300? To be specific I would like to know if I could read or watch some recommended videos on the removal and proper way to rebuild this transfer case. What tools would be required to complete the rebuild properly, and what should I look for when opening up the transfer case. I want to do it right but don't want to exceed my skills. I would be willing to take and post photos along the way.
  10. Just picked up this 55 CJ5 minus motor for next to nothing. Going to build a rotisserie and try to rescue the tub for my 67 restoration. Going to be a challenge but hate the thought of an aftermarket tub. Everything else is for sale. Just not sure what anything is worth yet. hood fenders two grills tailgate t-90 transmission dana 18 transfer case bell housing for F head two oil pans heater box air cleaner windshield frame ( rough ) axles frame rear draw bar
  11. We once referred to vintage Jeep 4x4s as the most modified and cannibalized vehicles on the planet. Beginning with WWII surplus MB Willys Jeep models, most off-road rigs got a good dose of upgrades, from oversized tires to V-8 conversions. So popular was the modification approach that in the Chrysler/Jeep Mopar era, we refer to the Jeep as the most "personalized" vehicle around, with catalogs full of accessories, chassis upgrades and winches. Today, for the first time, vintage Jeep vehicles have shown a bump in value, even finding their way to Mecum and other auctions alongside vintage collectible cars and nostalgia muscle cars. With that trend, for the first time, a vintage Jeep is judged for its originality and an authentic restoration. So, we're at a crossroads. What do you think about modifying a 1941-86 Jeep 4x4 for extreme trail use? Or are you considering a bolt-by-bolt restoration of a vintage Model MB, CJ-3B, an M38AI, FC150, FC170, Willys Pickup or Willys Station Wagon? Please share your plans and thoughts on this subject! Moses
  12. If you're struggling with how to remove the rear wheel hubs from a Model 20 AMC rear axle shaft, check out my HD video how-to on the use of an OTC hub puller: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Tool-How-to-Using-the-OTC-7394-Hub-Puller.html. There's only one way to preserve these parts and get the rear hub loose...Make sure you mark the position of the hub and axle before removing the hub! "In the day", these hubs were supposed to be tossed out if removed. The knife "splines" are cut into a blank hub with extreme installation torque. Tightening the nut requires huge force to achieve the correct "stick-out length" of the axle shaft from beyond the hub end after tightening. When folks complain about these hubs "coming loose" on the axle shaft, it's often from repositioning the hub to the axle shaft or from not tightening the nut to create the correct stick-out length of the axle shaft from the hub. I have tightened these nuts with a floor jack handle on a 3/4" square impact socket to get this correct stick-out length—I write about this in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers)...The book is available from Bentley, 4WD Hardware, Advance Adapters, Quadratec, Amazon and elsewhere. If you have the AMC/Jeep factory service manual for your model, details on the rear axle shaft and hub are also discussed. Moses
  13. If you're struggling with how to remove the rear wheel hubs from a keyed, tapered rear axle shaft, check out my HD video how-to on the use of an OTC hub puller: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Tool-How-to-Using-the-OTC-7394-Hub-Puller.html. There's only one way to preserve these parts and get the rear hub loose...Also works on the AMC Model 20 axles and even later model 4x4s with unit bearing front ends and frozen axle shafts... Moses
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