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Showing results for tags '4wd'.
Found 11 results
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I have attached a few pictures of this transmission I have but I don't know where its from I need help identifying this transmission the only thing I can identify here is the transfer case because it has the sticker in the back its an NP "new process" 249 J This is a manual 4wd transmission I believe its an ax15 transmission but please give me your input as i'm not sure any help is appreciated one more thing from the shape of the bell housing I don't think this came of a Jeep possibly AMC or other but thanks again
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My Jeep tj needs new shoes. How do people choose tires? I've been happy with BFG AT KO's in the past. But I see tire rack has general grabber AT for about $40 less per tire. So how can you tell if you're paying for a name, or a legitimately better tire. I'm not ready to commit $$ to a lift kit and new wheels, so I'm just looking at 30 x 9.50 15's. I'm in the upper Midwest so these tires will see snow and cold as well as summer heat. And sadly more asphalt than rock or dirt. -
Hi Moses, I read a lot of post with regards to the E40D Trans. I'm adding mine to the list. I have a 95' F-150 4WD, it has a 351 with the E40D. I do not believe I am "Hard" on my truck but if the trans. is bad this will make number 4. The truck has 150,000 until I bought it at 114,000 I don't think it pulled anything. Within a couple of months of buying it, seals blew loosing all the fluid. Replaced with a remanf. unit 20,000 and one year and ($2400) it goes again. This time no remanf. yard tranny, low mileage I have them check it over new filter, oil and ever it takes make it right. 3 months. 3000 miles warranty 14,000 miles, here we go again. By this time I have so much wrapped up in trans, that I go the cheapest route another yard trans, 3 months, 3000 miles. This one lasted 4 months and 1500 miles. So here is where I'm at, fluid level is correct, no burnt smell, at low speeds it's like when a manual trans. clutch is slipping engine starts to over rev., no additional speed, let off the gas and "catches" a little when I finally get up to speed it's better but as soon as I slow down....it was fine when I parked it 2 hours later this. A couple of questions, could an electrical problem be at the core of these issues, do the "codes" show up anywhere that (I) could see them or is a special scanner required? Are the E40D really that bad? what are their reputation, finally why would they replace something as great as the C6. Thanks for any help. Sincerely,
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Fellow Forum Members...I am the guest for a 'Live Q&A Session' at Facebook Jeep Talk online. The scheduled time is 8 p.m. EST on December 29, 2014. If you have time and would like to join, here are more details from the magazine's Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/4WDMechanixMagazine. Facebook Friends...I am a guest at Monday night's Jeep Talk chat at Facebook. To make sure I'm on my game, Trevor Bryson shares, "Jeep Talkers, I am getting excited about Monday evening's Live Q&A Session guest Moses Ludel! Please join me ...at 8:00 pm EST to be wowed by quite possibly the smartest man in Jeep Knowledge. I'm like a kid in a candy store!" If you would like to join the discussion, click to https://www.facebook.com/groups/JeepTalk. Our live Q&A and general discussion about anything Jeep will begin at 5 p.m. PST—or 8 p.m. EST—and all other time zones accordingly! I look forward...Join us if you have the time! We'll see how this works...Maybe there's a '4WD Mechanix Magazine Chat Time' in our future? Moses -
For most of the world, an outdoor lifestyle involves motor vehicles. In North America, 4x4 utility vehicles long ago became the icon for backcountry travel, which now spans four generations of postwar Jeep, SUV and 4x4 light truck enthusiasts. When not used for work chores, these vehicles have taken families camping, hunting," rock hounding", fishing, exploring and rock crawling. 4x4s have accessed the most primitive and scenic reaches of the globe. The emergence of dirt motorcycles, ATVs and the popular S-by-S UTVs has given us an even wider range of vehicle choices. Dirt motorcycles, once strictly competition-oriented for desert, Six-Days Trials and motocross use, have expanded into the dual-sport crossovers and license plated, bona fide dirt enduro bikes. The sport bikes have now given up their top sales segment status to the "adventure-touring" class of heavyweight highway/occasional dirt use cycles—not so "occasional" for Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman in the two "Long Way..." documentary series that have attracted millions of bucket list followers! "Long Way Down"* was a 15,000 mile ride, with extensive primitive roads through the African continent. *Note: Want to treat your family to a moto, geography and cultural lesson? Watch the 45-minute segments, available as streaming video at Netflix! Each of us has our motor vehicle legacy, and in my case, the focus has been both 4x4 utility/SUV vehicles and dirt motorcycles. I have my reasons. My view of 4x4s and dirt motorcycles breaks down like this: 1) 4x4 Utility Vehicles: The Jeep CJs and current XJ Cherokee 4x4, two FJ40 Land Cruisers and an I-H Scout were each "family oriented". (We also had a string of beam axle GM 4x4 pickup trucks and 3/4-ton 4WD Suburbans that doubled for work and recreational/family use.) Camping, hunting, fishing and outdoor exploring are instant memories, each of these vehicles has its special association with remote "places". I drove a Jeep CJ-5 4x4 with my learner's permit and took the driver's license exam in that F-head model. Our children and grandchildren have each benefitted from a "4x4 lifestyle", and outdoor activities have defined our family for four generations. On the upside, a 4x4 utility, SUV or light truck can be a family foundation for outdoor activity and recreation; the downside is the ridiculously high price of admission to the new vehicle market...A "used 4x4" can be the practical alternative. 2) Dual-Sport Motorcycles: I grew up at rural Nevada when the state's population was so sparse that a "Scooter License" was available at the age of 14. Who would pass up such an opportunity? I bought a '55 Cushman/Allstate and quickly outfitted it with an oversized Super Eagle long block. That 'sleeper' made 60 mph. If it's in your blood, one motorcycle leads to another, and my first bona fide "off-pavement" bike came in the form of a two-year-old 1969 BSA 441cc Victor single-cylinder thumper, which really had more place on-pavement but looked very cool as an "On Any Sunday" scrambler/enduro of that era. Drawn to BSAs, I eventually owned an A65L Lightning and A75R Rocket III, both for pavement only...My resumption of dirt bike riding came two decades later, as riding with our youngest son Jacob led to a string of pre-owned Honda XR air-cooled models. The latest acquisition, 2000 Honda XR650R feels "just right" for open desert while the remaining '84 Honda XR350R makes for a nice single-track trail and moderate desert runner...The upside of dirt motorcycles is the incredibly reasonable price of admission when compared to a 4x4 vehicle; the limitation is that this is not "family recreation" unless the entire family rides on individual motorcycles and enjoys the sport. Unless we see a dramatic decrease in the gap between income and the cost of new motor vehicles, and a real drop in fuel costs, the used vehicle alternative will become increasingly more popular for 4x4 enthusiasts. If there is no whole family "buy-in" (spouse or kids simply don't like bouncing around in a 4x4 all day), the powersports (i.e., dirt/dual-sport motorcycle, ATV or UTV) option becomes viable for those interested. This lower price of admission for a dirt motorcycle can be the leverage when you're the only one in the family who likes motorized, off-pavement travel and recreation. It's easier to keep peace in the family with the purchase and prep of a dirt or dual-sport motorcycle, for well under $10K even if bought new, than trying to push the idea of a showroom fresh JK Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited (4-Door) 4x4 at $40K—plus an additional $12K-$15K worth of "must have" add-ons and upgrades planned within five minutes of buying the Jeep—or after the first undercarriage-pounding rock crawl on stock diameter tires with that 116" wheelbase! Many spouses will go along with a used or new dirt bike expenditure in the $2500 to $9000 price range. 4x4s and dirt motorcycles are two distinctly different paradigms. If the whole family does not ride in the dirt, a motorcycle will be a solitary outlet for Dad (or Mom in this era) and friends with similar interests. For whole family recreation, a used or even the right new 4x4 makes sense. Buying used might leave enough funding for a dirt bike, too! Another consideration is riding skill. I'm lucky that my muscle memories for two-wheel motorized on- and off-highway cycling date back fifty years now. Riding in the dirt and on-pavement for that long builds reflexes and survival skills. It even compensates for aging to a degree. (Often, I am pleasantly surprised to "pull it off" with a strictly reflexive move at this ripe age!) On the other hand, without putting a damper on anyone's enthusiasm, I caution middle-age, first time riders: Go gradually, you've got a lot of catching up to do! Note: Having ridden highway under the "Basic Speed Law" at rural Nevada in the day, on a tuned BSA Rocket III that could soar to 115 mph without hesitation, with over fifty years of off-pavement riding experience as well, my health "secret" is defensive riding. That's the only way to stay uninjured and alive, frankly. Fortunately, I've never been down on the pavement nor done a high-side or "endo"/cartwheel in the dirt...No broken bones or injuries, I'm grateful and ever vigilant. If you have years of on-highway riding experience, that helps a lot in the dirt. However, riding off-pavement is it's own critter, beware of the handling quirks and dynamics that are unique to dirt riding. There are courses and trail riding schools. Watch every video you can on how to ride dirt at speed...On that note, don't ride at speed until you're good and ready! For those of us with a level head, motorcycling is potentially dangerous, and if you doubt that and do not ride defensively and reasonably, while wearing the right riding gear for the environment, you can expect to hear your friends and family's resounding, "I told you those things are dangerous!" Before gushing further about dirt and dual-sport motorcycles, I admit that dirt riding is a totally different angle. Camping out requires lightweight, easy to tote equipment—and not much of it! Inexpensive motels or B&Bs are a welcome alternative after eating dust all day. Weather becomes an issue, icy highways a hazard, mud a grind, and scorching heat a quick way to dehydrate. (Wear and use a Camelback or similar device!) If you like the comfort of a heater and air conditioning, a dirt motorcycle is not the way to go...If you want a five-muscle group exercise machine and an incentive for staying in good physical condition, a dirt bike and single track trails or open desert riding will do the trick! For our household, the current rolling stock and applications break down like this: 1) 1999 XJ Cherokee 4WD doubles as a daily driver/magazine chores and true trail use vehicle with its 6-inch long arm suspension lift and 33" tires, a winch on a winch bumper and ARB Air Lockers front and rear with 4.10 axle gearing. 2) 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 4WD Quad-Cab with Cummins 5.9L engine, our primary work vehicle, "ultimate" hauler and tow vehicle when needed. 95% of the Ram's life has been eating up highway miles at a tolerable 21-plus mpg...A great utility workhorse and overall vehicle, great ride quality for those 720 miles (each way) trips to Moab! 3) Honda XR650R motorcycle recently added to the stable and earmarked for outdoor promotion and use as a video filming platform. The iconic desert enduro motorcycle ("Dust to Glory" star in its HRC form), converted for dual-sport riding, license plated and insured, this bike is at home both on pavement and in the dirt...This is the fifth XR in our household, and another one (an XR400R in "as new" condition) heads into youngest son Jacob's garage later today. Honda XR motorcycle inventory: The wholly intact 1984 Honda XR500R needs some restorative work and currently rests under a protective tarp; the pristine '83 XR200R went to a good home years ago; Jacob's original and pieced together XR75 got ridden into the ground ($70 total invested, it ran for five years); and the '84 XR350R has remained in the stable, maintained meticulously. 4) 1984 Honda XR350R motorcycle that was built for hare-and-hound by an A&E licensed aircraft mechanic then never raced. This is a pristine, highly dependable air-cooled thumper with factory dual carburetors. (Many whine about the dual carbs, they are fundamental and not difficult to rebuild and sync, I'd be delighted to share details.) This engine starts on the first or second kick every time, hot or cold, and the four-valve technology makes it a kick-butt, fun and highly dependable motorcycle! Despite wife Donna's prodding about why I need more than one motorcycle, I've managed to keep this endearing motorcycle in the stable. All of our motor vehicles are paid for, and that has been the trend for us. We did buy the 2005 Ram new, the only vehicle in this batch that came off a dealer's lot. Each of the other vehicles was a "private party" purchase. We have enough funding left at the end of the day to buy the fuel, outdoor gear, fly fishing tackle, hunting paraphernalia and other outdoor lifestyle necessities. If being on a vehicle "cash footing" sounds appealing, these forums, the magazine and my Vimeo On Demand instructional videos can help you enjoy an affordable, motorized outdoor lifestyle! Moses
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Many members at these forums have shared stories about an older 4x4 that was "the best 4x4 they've ever owned". Some have suggested they would like to get that older vehicle back and restore it. Others have actually found the vehicle or a similar one, and the restoration process is underway. I have given a lot of thought to automotive restorations. Having done many professional motor vehicle restorations, including a string of mainstream 4x4 magazine projects, I have reached several conclusions about restoring older vehicles—and which 4x4s are worth restoring. I have rebuilt and mechanically restored models ranging from utility 4x4 trucks to high-end collectible cars, some with notable provenance and museum pedigrees. When do I restore an older 4x4 vehicle and for what reasons? Well, here we get more subjective, as there are many reasons why an older vehicle restoration can be worthwhile—and many motives for doing a restoration. Subjective is about opinions, and here, I would emphasize, are mine... When I was young, used vehicles had much appeal. Postwar Baby Boomers had parents who'd lived through the Great Depression. For many, a motor vehicle meant images from John Steinbeck's Grapes of Wrath, those decades old cars and trucks that needed constant work. The 'fifties ushered in an era of American prosperity unrivaled in history, many had access to family-wage income, there were plentiful jobs, and extensive onshore manufacturing provided an unprecedented standard of living and consumer buying clout. New cars, trucks, homes, appliances (durable goods) and food seemed readily accessible to more Americans than ever. So impressive was that buying power and living standard, with short term low-interest loans and revolving credit to back it up, that the 'fifties and 'sixties have become the benchmark for America's "good old days". Not born with a silver spoon in my mouth, I thought that used cars and trucks made great sense. As a budding motorhead, working on cars, trucks and motorcycles seemed just part of the fun! I quickly learned that shop manuals and literacy paid off, and my automotive projects had happy endings and satisfying results. My "academic" automotive bent has served me for a half-century now, and in that time, I've lived and breathed the American automotive culture down to the nuts and bolts! Yes, there are many good reasons for restoring an older vehicle. First, though, let's separate those vehicles that get restored for "nostalgic" and "collectible" value. Nostalgia and investment vehicles generally involve discretionary spending. Nostalgia projects have a wide range of motives, often unrelated to either transportation or the utility use of the vehicle. Instead, I'd like to focus on motor vehicles used for transportation, recreational pursuits or for work use. Let's begin by asking ourselves a basic question, "How much of my income and lifetime earnings do I want to invest in motor vehicle transportation or work vehicles?" Some argue that a new vehicle is essential or practical because it requires only a minimal need for service and repairs. So, let's look at what that so-called "peace of mind" is worth...When my folks bought the new 1964 Jeep CJ-5 with F134 engine, T98A truck four-speed transmission and 1/3-2/3 front seat, the price for that shiny new Jeep was $2300. An extra $300 or so bought a Whitco cloth top, Cutlass free-wheeling front hubs, a dealer installed Jeep heater, right side wiper and a drawbar hitch. Out the door, the Jeep 4x4 cost about $2700. Adult jobs at the time paid in the neighborhood of $3.50-$7 per hour. At that rate, a normal down payment and 15-20% of monthly income would handle a short term, low-interest rate new vehicle loan. (Add insurance, DMV fees, fuel and normal maintenance to that cost.) Moving along, my folks stepped up for a new Chevy K10 4x4 SWB pickup in 1970, equipped with 350 V-8, automatic transmission, power steering and heavy-duty rear bumper. Out-the-door price: $3700. Note: For a not so heartening look at our standard of living since 1970 (1973-74 was the peak of U.S. wage-earning prosperity), consider this information: http://economix.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/10/22/the-uncomfortable-truth-about-american-wages/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0. If you can come up with a more glowing view or statistics, please share them. If you prefer a graphic view of income between 1964 and the present, this will help. Skeptical? Please challenge these U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics-based findings if you can. As a coincidence, just after the peak of U.S. real dollar wage earnings, the mid-'seventies saw a dramatic hike in new vehicle prices. As a heavy-equipment operator working on the I-80 bypass at Winnemucca, Nevada, I looked at a new high-boy 1976 Ford F250 Lariat 4x4 pickup, loaded with available equipment, in the fall of 1975. Dealer sticker price was near $4,600. In less than two years, that same truck would jump to $6000-plus. The rest is history, as we've watched similarly equipped trucks reach the $40,000-plus price range today. Keep in mind that all trucks and cars are new at the beginning, and as they say in the car business, "There's a butt for every seat." The concern here is what percentage of your income goes toward a motor vehicle, and for how long? Interest and financing now reach to 84 months in some cases. The renewed popularity of leasing hints about the growing inability for buyers to build equity from a new vehicle purchase. New vehicles, known to depreciate "like a rock", leave a low down payment, long term contract buyer without any equity or means for bailing out or trading off the vehicle—for many years. Note: Leasing moves new vehicles off the lot and also creates a resale market of more affordable lease turn-in vehicles. Consumer/leasers simply abandon the idea of vehicle "ownership" or building any kind of equity. Instead, they make leasing payments, much like an apartment or home renter. Some leases now include service and warranty coverage during the term of the lease. This makes the overall cost of operating a vehicle that much clearer. There's only the soaring cost of fuel to contend with...In a positive sense, at least the consumer can budget for the perpetual, never ending cost, in real dollars, of having an un-owned vehicle in the driveway or garage. So, fast forward to the present, what some now refer to as the post-Great Recession era economy. Average wages in real dollars are lower than ever, new vehicle costs are still high and climbing, and there's apparently no way to contain fuel costs. Yet we continue to depend upon motor vehicles for our transportation, work chores, leisure life and, let's admit it, status as Americans. Observation: When we lived at Southern California during the 1980s and mixed with virtual strangers at social gatherings, the three questions invariably thrown our way were: 1) "What do you do?" [the employment/income question] 2) "Where do you live?" [the real estate holdings question] and 3) "What do you drive?" [the most universal consumer status question]. New versus restored older vehicle? The lines between practicality, utility and basic human needs get blurred when status, cultural conditioning or the innocent fascination with all things mechanical get in the way. With motor vehicles, an additional consideration is your safety and well-being. Clearly, we do need to protect ourselves and our families from the perils of motoring, from unsafe and outdated technology, and from getting stranded in the middle of nowhere with an unreliable vehicle! To what lengths do we need to compensate for these threats? As informed consumers, we can discriminate between old, questionable technology and more modern, safer equipment. In my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manuals (1946-71 and 1972-86 editions, Bentley Publishers), I discuss and illustrate the conversion from an inadequate vintage Jeep 9-inch diameter drum brake system to modern four-wheel disc brakes with a safer dual master cylinder. Similarly, Saginaw steering and a one-piece tie-rod made this 1955 Jeep CJ-5 prototype safer. By knowing the difference, I was able to upgrade a vintage 4x4 1/4-ton utility truck for better performance on public roads, making the CJ more than a "parade vehicle". I also replaced the F-head four cylinder engine with a 231 Buick V-6 to keep safely up to speed with other highway traffic. Restoring an older 4x4 truck, one with a good foundation for performance, traction and safety, can be rewarding in a variety of ways. Restored to "as new" operating condition could cost a mere fraction of a new truck's pricing. If an older model will satisfy your utility, work chore, transportation, towing, on- and off-highway safety, driving pleasure and other needs, wouldn't this be a good choice? Well, maybe... For some, there are good reasons not to take the older restoration option: 1) not enough time to do the restoration, 2) the need to sublet nearly all the work, which can drive costs through the roof, 3) no place to perform the work, 4) inadequate tools for the job, and 5) lacking the necessary skills to perform safe, reliable, professional-grade work. This last point is the most critical reason to opt out of restoring an older 4x4 vehicle. The internet is a wonderful learning resource. There is good information available, and unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation as well. It has taken over 45 years of hands-on professional experience to learn what I know—and also where to look for the right information when I do not know. A clear sign of an unprofessional approach is to minimize a mechanical task or be dismissive about the need to research and find the right troubleshooting or mechanical steps needed to perform a task professionally. I can rebuild a newly designed, complex automatic transmission and expect professional results. How and why? By having the ability to research and follow professional procedures to assure safe, predictable and reliable results. When I taught automotive technology and drafted lesson plans, my aim was to enable the students to "think like a professional mechanic/technician". Each of my seven Bentley Publishers books targeted that goal. Unless a restorer is willing to invest time and energy in "thinking like a professional mechanic", the restoration project will be unsuccessful. Even with a one-shot, never again project, the outcome depends upon professional work habits, following professional steps and procedures, and thoroughly understanding these steps involved. This distinguishes professional grade work from hobby or shade-tree work. We're now in an era where an "older" 4x4 could have EFI, an electronically controlled transmission, a lock-up converter or ABS. There's no room for shade tree or shortcut tactics here. I am a strong advocate for restoring older vehicles and keeping them as safe and reliable as a newer one. If you're willing to raise the bar and professionalize your mechanical skills and work habits, the results can be financially rewarding, esteem building and satisfying. You will be less dependent upon others while meeting your transportation needs, and you will be far more self-reliant in the kinds of situations that a 4x4 light truck, SUV or Jeep® might find itself! Moses
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With our interest in traction and all things 4x4, you'll find this video both interesting and entertaining. It reminds us that "Cadillac Hill" on the Rubicon Trail was originally about touring cars and not lifted 4x4s with 37" tires: http://www.youtube.com/embed/nq2jY1trxqg?rel=0 Moses
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There are many suspension lift kits available for Jeep, 4WD truck and SUV models. Pricing can be shopped online, through catalogs and at local retailers. A wild card, however, is how much it will cost in labor time to have a shop install that lift kit. Or for that matter, a winch, armor, ARB Air Lock, an exhaust upgrade, you name it! The magazine's 2005 Ram 3500 Quad Cab 4WD sports a Mopar lift kit, Warn front bumper and M12000 winch, Mopar drop down running boards and a number of other accessories. I performed all of the work on this truck and would be glad to comment candidly on any labor involved. Does anyone have a "flat rate" schedule they would like to share with viewers? This would really help consumers make an informed decision when estimating the cost of modifying their 4x4 vehicles. If you installed a lift kit or accessories yourself, can you share your vehicle type and the labor time it took to install these products—and what kind of tools and equipment were necessary? Thanks! Moses
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Mounting oversized tires is common for Jeep, 4x4 truck and SUV models. Member Bamafan1 sent a question that begs attention. This is a general topic that has importance. There is a "trickle down effect" when running oversized tires...These issues have solutions... See Bamafan1's note below, my reply, and join the discussion! Moses
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I see a lot of references to XJ, YJ, TJ, WJ and other 2 letter combinations in reference to the different Jeep models. What do the letter designations actually mean? For instance, what is the difference between a TJ and YJ Wrangler, or an XJ and a Grand Cherokee? Do they denote model or trim levels, or do they encompass all body and trim levels within a certain model? Are they strictly to denote the same model within a group of years? I am a fan of the dodge trucks, namely Dakota, and have only worked on a couple jeep vehicles, so i sometimes get confused as to which model is associated with which letter combination.
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Hi, Moses, I had an old AMC Corcord York 210 A/C turned into onboard air for my CJ-7 Jeep. The air supply worked great for years. I thought I killed it, so I swapped it out. I think I let the oil run dry on the old one, and it was running even with the power cut. Now I don't hear the clutch kick in when I add power to it. How do I know if this clutch is good? I hope this one is good. I added oil and it turns and makes a pumping sound.
