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In this video discussion, I describe the symptoms of hydraulic clutch linkage leaks in 1987-95 Jeep YJ Wrangler models. Originally part of the Q&A Vlog at the magazine, the viewer's question refers to hard shifting and loss of hydraulic fluid. I share what causes these troubles in this how-to HD video on troubleshooting: Moses -
Aisin AX15 manual 5-speed transmissions are popular and found in 1989-99 Jeep vehicles, Dodge Dakota pickups and some GM/Isuzu and Toyota light trucks. Highly detailed, this close up step-by-step instructional HD video rental is available only at vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild. Included is the information necessary for performing a complete restoration and professional level rebuild of the AX15 transmission. The AX15 transmission rebuilding process involves complex disassembly and assembly sequences. This is a precision gearbox, and every teardown and assembly step is equally important. Knowing which new parts your transmission requires is also valuable. This HD video rental includes two sections. Part 1 is teardown and inspection to establish your needed parts list. Part 2 is the assembly work. Both Part 1 and Part 2 are included in this 94-minute instructional HD video! Whether you have a shop specializing in light truck and 4x4 work or have a one-time 'DIY' project for your personal Jeep, light truck or SUV, this 30-day HD video rental can save you considerable time and money. For the cost of an AX15 shift cover boot, the rental will pay for itself many times over! The magazine's most popular technical articles and how-to videos have been reformatted and painstakingly edited as Vimeo On Demand productions. The latest feature is this in depth instructional how-to covering the rebuild of the popular Aisin AX15 transmission. Access the 94-minute Vimeo On Demand feature at: http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild
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I am installing a front D44 front from a mid-70s Waggy in my 85 CJ-7. I have found some good write-ups on shortening the drivers side of the 44 to keep overall width the same. My current issue is that I want to convert the unit from the 6x5.5 Waggy pattern to the 5x5.5 CJ pattern. I have actually sourced a set of Ford outers, but am reading some things which concern me concerning later Waggy D44s maybe not being compatible because of some dimensional changes to the bearing. AS I am not sure of the year of the D44 I am now considering having a machine shop redrill some of the components on the Wagoneer outers to 5x5.5. Any opinions on the best way to achieve what I am trying to do? Thanks, hobbs -
The axle shaft tapers have "teeth" that cut into the smooth surface of a new rear wheel hub casting. There is a minimum beginning axle shaft nut torque on Jeep CJs of 250 ft-lbs. For a new hub, this is followed by tightening the axle shaft nut further until you achieve the factory-specified stick-out length of the axle shaft threads (beyond the outer edge of the wheel hub). Note: I've attached the factory procedure in a PDF for those interested in the Model 20 AMC Jeep CJ axle shaft hub installation: AMC Model 20 Axle Hub Installation.pdf See your factory service manual, it will describe this procedure for the Model 15. For the Jeep CJs, I also go into this installation in-depth within my 1972-86 Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual (Bentley Publishers). Note the way you take this thread stick-out measurement... The amount of torque required on the hub nut can include the use of a 3/4" square drive impact socket and a long handle added to a 3/4" drive breaker bar. I have used the handle from a hydraulic floor jack (very carefully!) to gain enough leverage with some installations. Other installs require far less force than this. It's always about the correct thread stick-out measurement after tightening the nut. Those attempting to achieve the correct thread stick-out length with an impact gun, even a very strong one, may be surprised to find that the impact force is not sufficient to get the hub properly drawn onto the serrated axle shaft taper. All of this said, the AMC factory recommendation is a new hub casting if/when the hub shows any kind of damage. If you notice, brake work does not require hub removal, and the hub should, ideally, not be removed unless the axle shaft outer bearing requires replacement. Many do get away with hub reuse if there is no damage to the hub taper or axle shaft "teeth". If the hub has spun on the axle shaft, there is damage—the hub must be replaced. The hub and axle shaft positioning should be marked before the hub is removed. If you cannot or do not want to install a new hub, and the old hub appears okay, align the hub at its original position on the axle shaft. Tighten the axle shaft nut to the initial torque. I take this a step further and use the thread stick-out method to assure a safe installation. Once you have installed a hub to an AMC axle shaft in this manner, you will understand why Jeep owners who do not practice this method wind up with the hub spinning on the axle shaft's tapered end or, in the worst case scenario, the wheel hub and wheel/tire assembly can come loose! There are aftermarket "one-piece" replacement axle shafts available for the Jeep CJ 5x5.5" bolt circle hubs. These one-piece shafts have a more conventional outer flange for the wheel studs and mounting the brake drum and wheel/tire assembly. There are several suppliers for these Jeep CJ axle shafts. However, like you share, your Eagle wheel bolt circle is smaller than a CJ Jeep pattern, and the axle shaft lengths are likely different between the CJ and your Eagle. (Inner axle shaft splines may differ, too.) As a footnote, the key and keyway on the AMC axle shaft are not intended for withstanding the driving torque at the axle shaft. This key is mainly to facilitate the installation of the axle shaft nut in the manner I've just described. (It may provide a very marginal safety factor, but looking at it, you can see that the size of this key cannot withstand axle torque or loads.) With a new hub, you are actually "cutting" teeth/splines into the smooth hub casting taper as you tighten the axle nut securely. By securely, the only safe and trusted method is thread stick-out length. Any attempt to use a torque figure (other than the starting torque of 250 ft-lbs for the CJ Jeep Model 20 axle shaft nuts) is futile. Actual torque setting can vary from not much past the 250 ft-lbs minimum to the long handle leverage I mention. Related information: Anyone remember the vintage Volkswagen air-cooled era rear axle shaft nuts and the use of a long leverage bar for tightening? AMC is not alone here. And there are the tapered axle shafts on vintage Jeep, Ford, Studebaker, I-H and Chrysler cars and trucks that require a hub puller to remove the wheel hub and brake drum. If you need that kind of puller for an AMC axle, get pointers from my OTC Hub Tool video, click here. When Jeep owners do not follow this hub tightening procedure on the Model 20 axle in a CJ, and especially if they run oversized tires, the hub will spin lose. This can cause severe parts damage or even the loss of the hub/wheel assembly. Check your shop manual for the AMC AWD Eagle. I'm curious what the thread stick-out measurement is for the Model 15... Moses
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Has anyone used the Novak conversion kit to install a 5.3 LS into an XJ Cherokee? They have the whole package including updating the wiring harness and GM computer along with the XJ computer. -
In 1984, AMC/Jeep® took its unitized body and 4x4 technology into the XJ Cherokee platform. This breakthrough compact SUV became the best selling model of its era and made the AMC sale to Chrysler profitable. These models and the subsequent Jeep ZJ and WJ Grand Cherokees feature beam axles front and rear, two-speed transfer cases and rugged engine packages, making them candidates for off-road upgrades and 4x4 trail use...Welcome to the XJ Cherokee and ZJ/WJ Grand Cherokee community at 4WD Mechanix Magazine!—Moses Ludel At left is a ZJ Grand Cherokee equipped to tackle the Moab Area BFE course! Reno Off-Road Motorsports Expo (center) is one more place to see the owner enthusiasm for the XJ Cherokee! At right, the magazine's 1999 XJ Cherokee multi-tasks, pulling the Caravan trailer and our XR350R Honda dirt motorcycle!
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I am replacing my oil pump (1998 4.0L), would appreciate any help regarding priming the new pump. I'm a little hesitant to pull the distributor, is there an easy way to do this? Thanks Roger -
Hey I enjoyed the compressor story! Today I was able to start disassembling the transfer case I followed your procedure and took some photos. The impact driver worked great on the yoke nuts and to be honest most of what I disassembled today was very easily done. I have to admit once I learned the new to me transfer case nomenclature it went very well, I'm having fun. I noticed that the intermediate shaft had some wear, I could feel where the gears rode on the shaft. The gear teeth that I can see so far aren't showing any sign of wear I hope some of the photos will show. In the first photo the bushing on the left looks rough on the outside.
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I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee 1996 stroker six with these specification: - High compression pistons - CompCams camshaft #68-239-4 with lifters, valve springs, retainers, etc. - Three-into-one header Currently, I have a Hypertech program with a Unichip rev limiter module on the way. I want the most powerful computer and am considering these options: Superchips - SCT Computer - Jet Performance Stage 2 module Which is the strongest module? -
While waiting for the transmission parts to come in I disassembled the Transfer case. It went pretty easy. The only issue I had was when I removed the intermediate shaft I could not remove the intermediate gear as the book says I could. I had to wait until I slid the main shaft back a bit to remove the gear. The intermediate gear hit the side of the case. Not sure what I did wrong . I tried it in every gear. -
My TJ has an occasional cylinder 1 misfire indicated by the check engine light and an occasional lurch at highway speed. I have noticed the misfire when cruising at highway speed after driving about 20 minutes and feeling a sudden lurch, or when sitting at a red light idling. The engine runs fine aside from the occasional lurch and running rough at idle. I suspected a sticky lifter so I ran Sea Foam in the oil for about 2k miles and then changed the oil and filled with 10w-40. I never noticed a misfire on the highway after this, but it idles rough at stop lights and the check engine light came back on at a stoplight. It will probably turn off if I drive the highway a few times. Wondering if there's an interim fix to get by another 6 months or year without getting stranded by this thing. It's a 1998 with 250k miles on it, but I'm trying to put off replacing the engine due to the expense and I'm not sure it's worth it on a vehicle this "used". Is there any chance an even heavier weight oil is a temporary fix? Or is this engine shot and needs overhaul or replacement? -
This topic is new member Sparky1's question...I moved the discussion here, as this is a Jeep XJ Cherokee topic that will be of interest to many...Thanks for participating at the forums, Sparky1, we look forward to your involvement! In response to Sparky1's original question (in the next post), I haven't done this swap, but here's what I do know...The later model Jeep vehicles feature a security/anti-theft interlock system that ties the steering column/key functions to the powertrain management system. This matches the vehicle's VIN to the key lock mechanism, actually useful. When I toyed with the idea of a Liberty diesel engine swap into our 1999 XJ Cherokee (like your XJ), informed sources at Chrysler shared that this could only be done with a PCM match to the steering column. The standard route was to install the recycled engine, its PCM and the steering column from the same donor vehicle. So, I would suspect that the JK Wrangler steering column has ties to its PCM, and the PCM for a JK would drive a 3.8L or 3.6L V-6, not your inline 4.0L Jeep six. That's what I do know, others may have more insight here... As a footnote, I also know that the late JK Wrangler steering wheel is very cool! Moses
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Hi, I am new here and would like to know if anyone has had a similar problem. I need to change the ball joints ('97 Grand Cherokee ltd) ... The MOOG ball joints are as good as the OEM? The measurements are different from those installed in my car. Thanks for any advice. Kazu -
Hello out there! I found this forum recently and decided that I would like to do some work on a 1984 CJ 7. I will need tons of help. To begin with I have a hard time shifting from 2H to 4H to 4L and all in between. Most likely due to the fact that the Jeep is 30 years old, and likely no one has looked at the oil level in the transfer case! I have posted a couple of pictures to ask for help in identifying the transfer case on my CJ. I think it is a Dana 300? To be specific I would like to know if I could read or watch some recommended videos on the removal and proper way to rebuild this transfer case. What tools would be required to complete the rebuild properly, and what should I look for when opening up the transfer case. I want to do it right but don't want to exceed my skills. I would be willing to take and post photos along the way.
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My TJ airbag light has been on for some time and the cruise control no longer works. I assume they're related, but I'm not sure. Some corners of the internet say the clock spring needs to be replaced. I know CC works with manifold vacuum. I tried to trace the vacuum lines to look for abraded hoses or leak points and found none, but there are a lot of lines running a lot of directions - is there a common place they leak? Can this be diagnosed at home? Or is it best to have the dealer plug in their diagnostic computer? Is the airbag REALLY safe after the battery is disconnected for a few minutes? Or is it best to let the pros handle this one of it is the clock spring?
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I have recently installed a rebuilt AX15 in my 98 TJ. From the beginning it has been difficult to shift into 2nd and 4th gears. By difficult I mean it requires some strength to pull to engage as if there is a bungee cord opposing the direction I'm pulling. It will engage each time and does not have any noises associated with these shifts. It occurs only while shifting up into these gears. It shifts into all others fine and down shifts into them fine as well. If I have shifted into one of the gears I can shift back into it with no difficulty if I down/up shift momentarily the shift back. The shop I got it from is blaming it on the fact that I used 75W-90 oil at first. They recommended I switch to 5W-30 synthetic and change the oil a couple times to get the gear oil off the syncros. I have since done so with no effect. The local mopar dealer mechanic thinks it is a bent shift rail or fork. Does anyone have any ideas on this? I want to know if it will break in and get better or if I need to tear it down and inspect the parts for bends? -
Hello...My 1999 WJ 4.0 l6 can't start. It backfires through the throttle body when turning the engine over. Initially it showed these fault codes: P0340, P1765, P1391, P0531, P0761 and C214C, some codes disappeared except for P1391 and later P0301. The day it died, I filled the Grand Cherokee with gas to the brim, as I was making a long trip. That's when all hell broke lose. The engine had no power and was running as if it was cutting off fuel (pulsating), and it also increased fuel consumption significantly. By sheer luck i arrived at my destination. I also recall that the MIL light flashed for some time while en-route.The next day it started fine, though it idled roughly, especially in reverse gear. It finally died as we were running the engine to read live data with a scanner. We cleaned the injectors (not sure if it was properly done), and it became worse. I bought a set of upgraded (4 hole) Bosch fuel injectors, changed CPK and camshaft sensor, no difference. Can you please help me troubleshoot the problem? Presently the codes which are persistent when cranking are P0761 and C214C. I tried the quick start spray trick with no success. I have read threads about catalytic converter and camshaft target wheel. Can one of them or both cause it to backfire through the throttle body? Please help. I'm at my wit's end with this car. Bishie -
I have a 1994 Jeep XJ Cherokee with an AX5 manual transmission and 2.5L four-cylinder engine. I would like to convert to an automatic transmission and have a 1989 XJ Cherokee donor vehicle with an automatic. The '94 XJ has 3.73 axles, was originally a 2x4, now is a 4x4, auto trans is an AW4. The '89 XJ Cherokee is a 4.0L six. Both 4x4s have the NP231 transfer case. Is this even possible to do the swap on? I do have the complete donor XJ all electronics as well. Manual in the '94 came from an '85 2.8L, the axles came from an '86 2.5L, the transfer case came from a '87 4.0L all manual trans equipped. So is this swap even possible to accomplish? David -
The Jeep Liberty, Commander and Patriot have a loyal following. We bought the first year KJ Liberty model introduced in 2002 and were impressed with its content. Familiar with the XJ Cherokee, I knew immediately that the Liberty offered substance and way more technology than its predecessor. Each of these three Jeep 4WD models have more technology than a TJ or YJ Wrangler or the XJ Cherokee. The service needs are also greater and should follow OEM guidelines...If you have a need for answers and want to dialogue with other owners, this is the place! Better yet, I'll throw my professional card into the mix and offer researched, technical answers to your concerns. There are many Liberty vehicles now available in the used marketplace, and that number will swell. There is an aftermarket for upgrades and off-pavement modifications...The Liberty, in particular, has an off-road propensity, as many have discovered. Built properly, a Liberty can negotiate—and survive—rougher off-pavement use. As the price of admission to Jeep KJ Liberty ownership continues to drop, buyer interest and aftermarket support for off-pavement use will increase—just as it did with the XJ Cherokee. When many speculated that the XJ Cherokee's doors would likely bind from twisting the uni-body in off-pavement use, owners defied that challenge and did it anyway. And guess what? Few XJ Cherokee doors ever did bind, it takes a huge amount of abuse to tweak a uni-body chassis. This will be even more true with the Liberty—and Commander. Find out how your Liberty or Commander can survive off-pavement punishment—join this forum and post your topics and replies! Moses
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Carter BBD Carburetor Issues
SramblingMan posted a topic in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models
Let me start off by saying I am a complete novice when it comes to mechanics. I figured the best way to learn is to jump in and start trying myself. My Jeep was running great the last time it was driven, but it has sat for about a year and now will not start. Not getting fuel, I read online about a quick fix for idle problems by clearing the venturi tubes. While following the directions, I took off the air horn to get to the venturi cluster. I was holding the air horn in one hand and looking at another part in the other hand, an O-ring gasket (approximately 1/4 inch) popped off the air horn and landed on my wrist. I have no idea where it popped off of and have not been able to find it on exploded view diagrams on the rebuild kit. The ring is in the kit but I cannot find it in the diagram. Any idea where this ring goes? What do you think the odds of a beginner being able to clean and rebuild this carburetor correctly? Thanks for any help... -
Got my first jeep about a month ago, a '93 YJ Wrangler 2.5L 4-cyl, 5-speed manual. Went to drive off, got up to 2nd gear, and the regular manual shifter (not the 4WD transfer case) went loose in my hand. I can still drive it, but only in 2nd gear, where it was when it broke. The manual 5-speed shifter won't go into any gear, just wobbles around freely without engaging. Clutch is fine. I'm hoping it's some sort of shifter linkage bushing that broke, due to the suddenness of the problem, but don't know where to begin looking. Just had my rear brakes and emergency brake cable replaced about a week prior to this happening - don't know if that could be a cause. Any assistance pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated. I'm capable of doing a repair, but don't know my way around Jeeps at all yet. Pics would be a plus! Thanks for your time. -
I have a 95 Wrangler with the 2.5L AX-5 combination. I have the opportunity to replace this combo with the 4.2L AX-15. Other then the engine and transmission swap are there any hidden changes that will have to be made for this swap to work? -
Hello All: I have a 2003 Wrangler Rubicon SWB with many mods for wheeling - (6" Full Traction LA suspension/new wheels/35"Toyo MT etc.etc). She is very heavy. I am the original owner and try to keep my truck mint, although I do occasionally wheel it aggressively. She has 35,000 miles on the odometer and since I am very safety aware, I think it is time for new brakes. (The brakes on this truck are the original factory brakes/pads etc.) She doesn't seem to stop as well as she used to - there is too much fade - although the pedal is strong and I had everything checked out (bleed lines etc.) by my dealer in December. I'm just not comfortable on the Highway at 55 mph or so with the thought of a quick stop with a 4600lb brick that doesn't stop like she used to. So I am thinking of doing a full replacement with EBC rotors and pads. What else do I need to replace if I go this route? Remember everything is factory original and never replaced! Many thanks for your thoughts and suggestions, Joe Mac -
I've got a 1986 CJ7 258 Weber carb, factory Dana 44 rear (re-geared to 3:73's with Lockright locker) narrowed down Scout Dana 44 front with 3:73 gears, Spartan locker, old-style 6 bolt wheel hubs, stock factory front discs, Jeep T18 4 speed to a Scout/Dana 30 transfer case, power steering cooler, AMC Concord A/C now, onboard air with a tank, 35" BFG muds on 10" rims. I recently added Ford 8.8 rear discs to the Dana 44 rear. I had to have the bolt pattern redrilled to 5 on 5 1/2 and cut out the middle hole bigger for the flange. I had to elongate the mounting holes and bracket holes, mounted everything up and discovered the rotors set out 1/4" too far on the hat of the rotor. I added a 1/4" spacer, and everything bolted up. I hooked up the calipers and bled the lines. Had front brakes but little to no rear brakes. Went to the local u pick it junkyard and got an '05 TJ Rubicon proportioning valve. I checked all the lines and installed the proportioning valve. It seemed worse! Questions: 1) Should the proportioning valve be up near the master like the Rubicon, or is it okay to have it in the CJ7 location on the frame? 2) Should I still get an adjustable pro valve and keep the Rubicon proportioning valve, or 3) should I go back to the CJ7 proportioning valve and add the adjustable valve near the master? Or should I upgrade the master? -
Disc brake conversions are popular, and I cover that topic in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manuals (1946-71 and 1972-86 Editions, Bentley Publishers). Whether the CJ has a four-drum system or a disc front/drum rear system, the master cylinder must be considered during a disc brake conversion. There are two master cylinder concerns when converting to disc brakes: 1) the piston bore size and fluid volume per stroke of the pedal and 2) any "residual valves" that might have been used for the drum brakes. For disc brakes to work, the master cylinder must have enough fluid displacement to apply the calipers and pads. Disc calipers use more brake fluid per pedal stroke than properly adjusted drum brakes. If the Jeep is a vintage CJ 4x4 with a single master cylinder and drum brakes, especially the 9-inch diameter drum system, the stock master cylinder will be inadequate for modern disc brake calipers. Drum or disc brakes, I'd want to get rid of the single master cylinder for safety sake, regardless! In converting to disc brakes, the best choice here should be a modern four-wheel disc brake type dual master cylinder retrofit. A retrofit can even be done using the original, through-the-floor brake pedal, as I illustrate in the 1946-71 Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual (Bentley Publishers). I fabricated a safe, sturdy mount for a later dual master cylinder—mounted beneath the floorboard like the stock master cylinder and actuated by the stock brake pedal. Sometimes, a disc/drum master cylinder will have adequate fluid displacement on the rear drum circuit to operate retrofit disc rear brakes. Again, this depends on the master cylinder's bore size and stroke per pedal application. The rear fluid reservoir is often smaller, so keep fluid at the recommended full level. On 1972-up Jeep CJs with four-wheel drum or disc front/drum rear brakes, you may be able to use the stock master cylinder with a disc brake conversion. Be aware, though, that some master cylinders will require removal of the residual valve(s) from the master cylinder ports. The "residual valve" is important on many drum brake systems. To keep the wheel cylinder cup lips expanded, which prevents fluid seepage from the wheel cylinder with the brakes released, a valve is built into the hydraulic system to hold "residual pressure" in the wheel cylinders when the brakes are released. Early single master cylinders and many four-wheel drum or disc/drum dual master cylinders have built-in "check" or "residual" valves. This residual pressure is below the tension of the brake shoe return springs. Residual pressure is simply to keep the wheel cylinders from drawing air or leaking fluid when the brakes are released. This pressure is typically around 12 PSI, well below brake shoe return spring tension. By design, disc brake calipers do not require residual pressure. The pads release pressure with the pedal release. There is adequate fluid available in the circuit to apply the brakes without lag or hesitation. Some disc brake hydraulic systems, do have very slight residual pressure to keep the pads close to the rotors at all times and improve brake response time during pedal application. This pressure would be around 2 PSI and not enough to cause premature pad wear, fade or overheated rotors. Note: If you're using a four-wheel drum or disc/drum CJ master cylinder, check the fluid line ports for a residual valve. Typically, this valve is simply a rubber plunger and balance spring at the back side of the tubing flare nut seat. With the brake lines removed from the master cylinder, you can see the rubber plunger through the passageway at the center of the tubing flare nut seat. This seat is removable for service and seat replacement. If you are curious how to safely remove the seat, I'd be happy to detail—ask here at the forum! Caution: When retrofitting from drum to disc brakes, you need to remove the drum brake residual valve(s). Earlier Jeep dual master cylinders for four-wheel drum brakes have residual valves at both the front and rear fluid line ports. OEM disc/drum brake systems can have a residual valve on the rear brake circuit. If the residual valve for drum brakes is left in place, the disc brake pads will drag on the rotors with the brake pedal released. This can cause excessive pad wear, brake fade and even wheel lockup. One disc brake conversion example is our fellow forum member "LastCJ7". He has a 1986 CJ-7 Jeep (disc front/drum rear factory brakes) and is converting to rear disc brakes. He's trying the CJ-7 dual master cylinder before considering a late Jeep TJ Wrangler Rubicon (four-wheel disc from the factory) master cylinder...LastCJ7 needs to make sure there is no residual valve holding pressure in the rear brake system with the brake pedal released. On later disc/drum master cylinders, there may not be a residual valve in the rear brake circuit. Many manufacturers have changed over to stiffer wheel cylinder cup expander springs with sturdier cup expanders. This measure keeps the rubber cups expanded with the brakes released and serves the same purpose as older residual valve systems. When converting to disc brakes, explore whether your original dual master cylinder uses a residual valve or valves. Vintage, single master cylinders have a check valve within the master cylinder to hold residual pressure in the system—one more reason why a single master cylinder is not a candidate for a disc brake conversion! Make sure the master cylinder's fluid displacement (per pedal stroke) will meet disc brake caliper requirements. If in doubt, retrofit a combination valve and master cylinder from a similar chassis—like retrofitting a Jeep TJ Wrangler Rubicon master cylinder and combination valve to a CJ-7 chassis. Summing up, make sure the brake hydraulic system is compatible with the disc brake calipers and rotors. Both the CJ-7 and TJ Rubicon are on a 94" wheelbase, each has beam axles and an inline six-cylinder engine, their curb weight is a close match, so they should have similar braking needs and characteristics...Jeep TJ Wrangler Rubicon brake components would be a good template for the CJ-7 wheelbase and four-wheel disc brakes. Moses
