53HiHood
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About 53HiHood
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I unpinned the severed wires from the locker sensor connector and soldered and sealed them. The t-case mode switch is out of reach from underneath the Jeep due to the Nth degree tummy tucker. I was going to go in through the top and thought I’d check to see if the 4wd dash lights decided to start working again and to my surprise they worked, as did the locker switch. I shifted in and out of 4wd several times without issue. I tested the air pumps and lockers and everything works now as it should. I’m curious as to why the mode switch didn’t work yesterday but worked fine today. Yesterday I had the battery disconnected temporarily, today I fixed the locker sensor and checked the 4wd fuse, #24 I think, and that’s all I had done.
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I have a friend who experienced this before, I believe it was the t-case input seal that was bad and leaked fluid into the tail shaft housing/extension. Can’t remember how he figured it out, whether there was an external leak or he noticed fluid disappearing with no visible leak.
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I went with the Artec truss and C-gussets. https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-15452070-dana-30-tj-artec-truss-system.html
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I just picked up an 06 Unlimited Rubicon. I tested the 4wd and lockers prior to buying it and everything appeared to work. Dash lights came on for 4wd and 4lo, locker switch would light up and f/r locker lights would come on. I have driven the Jeep maybe 10 miles since buying it and I went to engage the 4wd and lockers tonight and nothing, no dash lights, no switch light, no air pumps turning on. It does engage 4hi and 4lo. It was late and below freezing so I didn’t spend much time looking at it. I did find the front locker sensor wiring separated at the connector, I will work on fixing that tomorrow. I read that there is a mode switch on top of the t-case that could be the cause if it’s faulty and the pcm is not getting a signal that the t-case is in 4lo. I will try to access that tomorrow as well, but it may be difficult with the large skid plate/aftermarket control arm mount system. Any experience and feedback here would be appreciated as always.
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I did end up pulling the rear locker not long after my last post. I replaced the bonded seal and I had ordered some new carrier shims because there was no carrier preload, the locker would go in and out easily once the caps were removed. I got the preload set and backlash is perfect. We went snow jeeping the following day and the locker worked great. No compressor cycling once the gear oil is warmed up. I recently picked up a used 30-spline ARB that I’ll be using for the HP30, I’m going to pass the yukon zip locker off to a buddy that’s running a non-selectable locker in the front of his CJ. I just got the housing back from the fab shop last week, trusses and c-gussets were installed, so I can start assembling it once I catch up on other projects.
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I’m still waiting for the new seal housing for the D30 arb, I talked to the shop twice and haven’t gotten anywhere with them. At this point I need to just cancel that order. I got tired of not being able to drive my Jeep so I spent some time last weekend reinstalling the rear locker and I put the front locker back together (it’s not hooked up to air) just so I could drive it. I didn’t replace the internal bonded seal in the rear locker because I didn’t have replacement locking tabs for the case bolts at the time, and I might be pulling it back out because the compressor turns on briefly even couple minutes if I engage the rear locker. No big deal though, ECGS had the locking tabs in stock and they should be here this week. Jon
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That's interesting information about the transfer case clocking differences between the two. I believe the XJ can be found with both LP and HP front diffs, but it could be that there are different models or years where they varied?? I'm still waiting on parts to trickle in to put my Jeep back together, East Coast Gear Supply is awesome and ships fast, same can't be said for the shop that's only 2 hours from me that has had me waiting 3 weeks now for parts they confirmed they have in stock. It's been a week since I last contacted them for an update and no response. Bummer. I received the new D44 seal housing for my rear ARB and they have actually updated them with 3.5mm line (vs the old 3/16 that you can't get fittings for anymore) so the newer bulkhead kits can be used. I'm hoping I'll find the same when the front ARB seal housing arrives. I've already ordered the newer style bulkhead kits. Jon
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The hp D30 came out of a 97 XJ so the control arm mounts are the same. I have new seal housings coming for both ARB’s, hopefully I’ll see those this week so I can get the Jeep back on the road, it’s a cold ride to work on the Africa Twin this time of year.
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The high pinion D30 should clear everything. The Jeep has a Rubicon Express long arm lift so I shouldn't have clearance issues. The swap is fairly common from what I gather and the question I see a lot is "why didn't Jeep use the high pinion in TJ's". This housing came out of a '97 XJ. I picked the housing and zip locker up yesterday, and ended up with another RD30 ARB that the guy was going to scrap, it appeared to be in serviceable condition minus a missing bolt. I'll use it to get the front diff back together so that I'm able to drive the Jeep while building the HP diff. The seal housing for the rear locker should be in late next week, I could be snow jeeping by the weekend.
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I’m picking up the HP D30 housing and D30 zip locker on friday. I ordered most of the parts for the HP build from ECGS this morning; D30 reverse gears, install kit, chromoly axles (30-spline inners), and seals. I need to call them back in the morning to add a few things to the order like the artec truss and C gussets. ECGS also had the seal housing kit for my rear D44 ARB so I’ll be able to fix the air leak. ARB contacted me today to confirm that all of the parts I need for the older model D30 ARB are in stock at their warehouse so I relayed that to my local shop that I placed an order with last week and they said they actually received some of my parts this week (better than the 3+ week back order they told me on Monday), so I should be able to get my front diff back together sooner than later I hope. At least I have the HP parts coming though, I should have that built by mid-November.
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I did shoot a message to ARB inquiring about the parts and I’m waiting to hear back from them. I might be out of luck with these units being discontinued so long ago. I have been heavily considering switching to the Eaton e-locker, the Dana 30 model is OOS everywhere but I can find the D44 model readily. If I can’t get parts for the D44 arb I’ll start looking at other selectable locker options like the Eaton. Any experience with the Yukon zip lockers? I may have just scored great deal on a 30 spline zip locker and HP30 housing. Jon
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So I picked this ‘01 TJ up, it has a LP D30 front/D44 rear with ARB’s (I have to older gen RD30/RD06 lockers), and after the first trip out I realized the air lockers don’t engage and the compressor will run non-stop if I try engaging the lockers. I pulled the front diff cover to find a not-so-pleasant surprise, all 6 fasteners on the seal housing end of the unit and 3 of the 4 shaft retainer pins were laying in the bottom of the diff housing. The air line was damaged, which will require a new seal housing, and the cross shafts have varying degrees of damage, mainly one of the short shafts. The fastener retainers were not present, so I’m assuming the locker was installed without them. Doing some digging online it appears the RD30 was notorious for having this failure due to the amount of flex in the D30 housing and/or lack of diff preload. The D44 rear didn’t have any surprises for me when I opened it up so I was able to start looking for the air leaks. It was leaking at the bulkhead fitting and from the locker unit so I removed it and found some gunk in the seal housing. The sealing surface in the seal housing is showing excessive wear from debris getting in there. It could possibly be cleaned up but replacing it would ideal for longevity. I would like to rebuild the lockers but I’m having a hard time finding replacement parts due to these models being discontinued. Some parts are discontinued entirely, others can be found online but when I place an order I get a follow-up email stating the parts are back ordered. Am I wasting my time trying to rebuild these obsolete units since the manufacturer support isn’t there? Jon
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Moses, I realized I never replied to your last post, but better late than never huh. My front discs are CJ7 if I’m remembering right, it’s been a few 3-4 years since I replaced those parts. There were two different rotor thicknesses I believe and I’ll have to check which I have.I do have a wilwood proportioning valve that I will be using, and the master cylinder is a large bore dual reservoir that mounts on the firewall. I need to replace it due to it’s condition. Jon
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1956 Willys CJ3B Rebuild and Restoration
53HiHood replied to Mike House's topic in Vintage Jeep® Vehicles 1941-71
Mike, I’m excited to see another 3B project on here. I need to get back to working on my 3B this fall or winter after I insulate my new shop. -
The 400 is a great bike, one of the best trail bikes in my opinion.
