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joemac51

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About joemac51

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  1. Have to get your knowledge as I am puzzled. I asked a local 4X4 shop a question -- "If I wanted to flat (dingy) tow my 2003 5-speed Rubicon, what is the correct procedure to do so?" I was advised that I cannot flat tow my 2003 Rubicon as the "gearbox does not have a true neutral position". Is that true or not? I thought that Rubicon can be flat towed. Isn't it a dead on true neutral wherein you put the gearbox in Neutral and its fully disengaged? Joe Mac
  2. Hi Moses , My intention would be milder gravel / dirt roads / some washboard like roads - nothing very serious or off camber as the camper / truck combo are not for that. With what would be a 4000lb payload I would not subject the truck to anything severe but would like to reach some more remote camping destinations safely, with the least amount of wear and tear and abuse to the suspension and the truck as possible. My thoughts were whether this stableload device would be a beneficial addition to the spring pack and the truck when heading down a dirt road to a camping spot? Frankly I have camped 6 times with this Truck / Camper and have gone down short dirt roads to get to a state park or BLM campsite. There is some rock and roll and the OEM suspension works great as is. It seems to me that engaging the helper spring earlier is all that is going on here - and I wonder if that is beneficial to the system or not? Thanks! Joe Mac
  3. Moses, I realize it's too soon, but how about a discussion on what we all think of the new "Cherokee" 2014 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk V-6 4x4? Is it really a Cherokee and can it really be driven off road if someone is in the market for something economical and tough! Is this the vehicle? Just asking - Joe Mac
  4. Hi Moses, What's your take on the benefits of adding a Stableload Quick disconnect to the lower overload springs of a 2013 Chevrolet Silverado Ext Cab Long Bed HD 3500 Diesel. http://www.torklift.com/products/stableload.php My question relates to whether there is a benefit to the factory spring set of relieving and assisting it when carrying a heavy load (truck camper and gear 4000lbs) and traveling on off pavement roads into the back country for a camping adventure. Right now my truck handles the load very well - but would it behoove the vehicle dynamics and assist the spring set if this was added?? As always - Thanks! Joe Mac
  5. Moses, I was advised yesterday that putting a small amount ( ie 16oz) of Dextron II or similar Automatic Transmission fluid into the gas tank of a Diesel engine ( Ford/Chevy/Dodge HD pickups) is like a detergent and it helps clean everything and improves fuel efficency? Is this true??? Thanks, Joe Mac
  6. Hi Moses, I think I've made a decision on what to do with my hitch and hitch extension concerns! First - we had a fantastic 5 day Truck Camper Rally in Gettysburg, Pa. and I worked everyone I could find that was trailering behind their pickup and truck camper - (mostly motorcycles, scooters, supply trailers, etc). There were flat towed vehicles and one tow dolly. No open or closed deck car haulers at this rally - but plenty of folks who do haul cars on or in trailers and/or very heavy boats etc. The majority recommended the Torklift SuperHitch /SuperTruss extension set up. Only one person uses the Reese Titan on their factory hitch. Looking at the Reese rating as indicated below and considering a 29 or 30 inch extension requirement for actual usage I would be very close to the 6000 lb Weight Distribution Rating of their extension! This honestly does not make me very confortable when considering I will be towing 6000 lbs or maybe more. Reese specs: Reese Titan / Tow Beast Trailer Hitch Extension and Reducer Designed to extend the receiver opening 24" or 34" away from the truck For use with 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" trailer hitch receivers only Extender reduces the receiver opening to 2" x 2" for use with standard ball mounts and accessories Hitch Box Extension comes complete at 34" and is designed to be cut down to 24", depending on the application. Titan Hitch Box Extension Extension Length Weight Carrying Rating (lbs) Weight Distribution Rating (lbs) 24" 6,000 8,000 34" 4,500 6,000 Now looking at the Torklift SuperTruss Extension ratings, which must be used with their SuperHitch. Here are the specs: SuperTruss Extensions CAPACITIES DEAD WEIGHT RATING CAPACITIES WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING (REQUIRED) LENGTH GTW(F1) / GVW(F2) GTW(F1) / GVW(F2) 24" 750 / 7,500 1,400 / 14,000 28" 750 / 7,500 1,200 / 12,000 32" 650 / 6,500 1,200 / 12,000 It looks to me like I will have to go with the Torklift SuperHitch and their SuperTruss Extension package! Safety is first priority, and even though I really do not want to swap out my hitch - the correct application for my usage and the higher ratings make it the safest way to go! Thank you for all of your help. All the best, Joe Mac
  7. Moses - Here is the reply I received from Reese Tech - Quote: -----Original Message----- From: Tech Support <TechSupport@cequentgroup.com> To: com> Sent: Mon, Sep 16, 2013 2:40 pm Subject: RE: Reese® Website : Contact Form Message (Technical Support) Joe, With our extension we do not make provisions for chains/turnbuckles. We have designed the extension to be used with our hitches (can be used on others) and have found the extra cables or chains is not required. The extension has a bend in it so that the end of the extension comes up 3”. The extension will work up to the load ratings published. 888/521-0510 Thank you for contacting the Technical Group. Cequent Performance Products From: reesewebsite@reeseprod.com [mailto:reesewebsite@reeseprod.com] So what does that mean!?
  8. Hi Moses, Thanks as usual - I have sent a email to Reese - when I have their reply I will share it. Also I am going to a TC rally this weekend and will search out the "towers" and seek their advice etc. I know from past experience many are very strong proponents of swapping the OEM hitch for the Torklift SuperHitch and the SuperTruss hitch extension - http://www.torklift.com/products/supertruss.php Frankly that is an awful lot of money to put into the truck when I have an 18k OEM hitch?? Shall revert back when I have more info! All the best, Joe Mac
  9. Hi Moses...What do you think of this communication? Here is an excerpt of comments made by a trailer dealer to me in relation to setting up the Pick Up for trailering the Jeep using a Reese Titan Hitch Box Extension and Reducer for 2-1/2" Trailer Hitches, 24" This would be using my factory class V Hitch with the Reese Titan extention when I have my Truck Camper on the truck which extends 24" to the rear. It is exactly 24" from the hitch receiver to the end of the camper. I would be pulling the ATC 18 ft trailer with the Jeep on it! I don't have the measurements of the ground to the camper he's asking for - should get them this weekend. Dealer comments: "I have given this some more thought, and am thinking perhaps adding 2 smaller receiver tubes at the outer edges of the existing hitch, and making brackets that would slide into those , to have a higher point of attachment for the Torklift type chains and turnbuckles. By pulling from a higher point , and not just from a level plane , it will offer much more vertical strength on the hitch tube extension. And / OR making the other ends of the stabilizer chains with turnbuckles for tightening go to a bracket that protrudes below the hitch extension tube will change the angle of the stabilizer chains to resist both lateral movement , but more importantly vertical loading for tongue weight . I see the camper drops in the back. how high is the back of the camper above the ground ? How high is the top of the receiver tube above the ground? Joe, thanks for the information. I will look at the Reese heavy duty extension bar again, I am thinking it may be a possibility if we can add the chains to stabilize it as the torklift extension does. With the 2 1/2” receiver tube, and using the equalizer weight distribution hitch to counter balance most of the tongue weight , it may be as good a solution as the torklift hitch with the second receiver tube. this approach would eliminate the need for the second receiver tube . How long do you think that extension needs to be to bring it just beyond the overhang of the camper? I will look at this both ways, and see what we arrive at. Are we going in the correct direction here ? Your knowledge and insite is greatly needed! Thanks, Joe Mac
  10. A Trail Use Tire Changer?

    Gentlemen, A couple of concerns are weight of the tire changer itself (added to the trail rig) and a proper tied down and secured location for carrying it. Most Jeeps that wheel have space or carrying capacity "issues"! If you receiver mount this it needs to be tight to the vehicle and not be a point of impact on the trail? Also for wheelers who have very large tires - (ie my Toyo Open Country M/T LT315/75R16's on Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels are almost 100 lbs each) - can this machine handle such size? Finally the managability of performing a tire change/reseating on a trail may be quite more challenging (when dealing with the weight and location) than simply putting on a spare? Reseat later at the home base, campground, etc. I would consider this as an excellent extra tool to bring in or on the trailer but not on the trail. MHO ! All the best, Joe Mac
  11. Hello Men, In my opinion all that Moses stated is correct you can't beat a WDH - but you have to have correct ride height otherwise you're stressing your suspension including the shocks as well as the springs. HD shocks are needed for heavy loads but shock modifications are a bandaid as shocks keep your tires on the road - you really have to address your load bearing vehicle dynamic. INHO - Don't ever use air bags! Add HEAV DUTY Super Springs! www.supersprings.com I did that on my Chevy 2500 to help with my payload and they were excellent! VEHICLE DYNAMICS were much better and the suspension worked very well. Joe Mac
  12. Hello, Men, Well I believe this is a very interesting topic as there is so much out there on all of the issues Biggman100 brings to the table. There are many ways with which folks can save a few dollars or rather avoid spending too many dollars on travel. Folks just need to "plan" their travel. Camping is simply magnificent, and the best way to have a great weekend or vacation - but you must plan it out a bit! I have been camping for many many years and my wife and I tent camped for over 20 years before she said no more - why - too expensive - too uncomfortable - too much work. How the heck camping is too expensive is another story but we didn't plan correctly and there was much waste! Well - 4 years ago while I was doing my utmost to convince my wife that we could camp economically and comfortably she discoved "Truck Campers". I never in my wildest dreams imagined my wife in a truck camper (as I was pushing for a nice travel trailer!). While we were at a RV show in Springfield MA she gravitated to the truck campers loving their simplicity and economic benefits! Needless to say we have been truck camping for over 3 years now and love it!! The best suggestion for all of the economic benefits of Truck Camping can be found at - www.truckcampermagazine.com. There are many articles from the publishers and the readers as to affordable travel tips. Truck Campers are true road warriors and we stay at all kinds of places (for free!). Walmarts / Cracker Barrels / Camping World / Sam's Club's etc., while we are on our way to our destination. As far as camping goes - for example - BLM land can be free or a nominal charge for their campgrounds. Gas prices need to be hunted and the approach given above is excellent - we do the same thing as Biggman100 and seek out prices - fill up where they are cheaper - and save a reasonable amount. All in all, if you plan things a bit, travel can be affordable. All the best, Joe Mac
  13. Hi Moses, Ok here is a link to the trailer I am interested in - http://www.aluminumtrailer.com/productdetails/OpenCarHauler/42 It has the specs as to the wiring, lighting, brakes etc. Please let me know if there is something else that it needs or I should order for it. I like the MAC'S tie downs (for various reasons let alone my name!) - I like this package - Mac's Ultra Pack (8 Foot) with Direct Hook Ratchets (511218) But frankly - I have no idea what is the correct aplication for my vehicle on a trailer? I read your article on tie-downs but my 2003 Rubicon needs a different way of tie down to the trailer. I would presume I need to wrap around my front and rear axles and am not sure of the strap length needed. Not sure of the ability to cross the straps to the opposite tie downs on the trailer etc.etc. Also want to make sure I have the tie down locations correct on the trailer and if I need a couple of extra D-rings where should I locate them?? Anyone with experience in this for a TJ can certainly add their 2 cents as I could use the education! Again - Thanks for your suport and guidance, All the best, Joe Mac
  14. Hi Moses - Here is the latest - We spent all day Saturday looking at car trailers - Went to 3 states and the only thing I accomplished is that - nothing has changed for me! I like the Aluminum open deck. You are correct, the Aluminum is the way to go. By the way we discovered the prices I mentioned above of the Aluminum trailers are for 2+ year old trailers sitting in the lot and the 18 ft ones are gone - there is one 16 ft. left. My concern here is the tires and dry rot - from 2+ years of sitting? Is this a valid concern or not? Also what is the difference between - Galvanized Steel Wheels and Aluminum Wheels - are the aluminum wheels worth the extra dollars? And while I am on tires - are 205/75R15 Load Range C all right for a 7000lb trailer or should I upgrade to a 225/75 R15 load range D?? To be honest I like the 16 ft size trailer as the 18 ft trailers seem like quite a large deck - but when I look at my Jeep and its size (weight) 16 ft may be too small from a distributing of the load perspective? I know you have already advised to get the 18ft. But would the 16 ft be ok? My thought is to put a tool box on the front of the trailer - and if I get a 16 ft. it would have to be on the trailer tongue - if I get an 18 ft I would put it on the trailer deck up against the rail for my equipment - that will take up a good foot to foot and a half of the trailer deck. Here is the size of my Jeep: Length – 13’4’ (160”) Length with my bike rack on the rear – 16’ 2” (194”) - which I would like to keep on the Jeep when traveling Total track width (to outside of my tires) front and rear is 6’ 2” (74”) The wheelbase from center of the wheels is – 7’ 10” (94”) Also - I have found this Equalizing Weight Distribution Hitch which I like very much - one of the dealers we visited uses this on his own trailers and we were impressed with its quality and the manor with which it functions. http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Equal-i-zer/EQ90-00-1000.html So to recap - here is my perfect world - Order a 16 or 18 ft Aluminum open deck car hauler - with the following options: a) Aluminum Wheels Spare Tire c) Aluminum Storage Box d) 225 tires?? My apologies for all of the questions but I am trying to make a correct decision and I need as much knowledge as possible. Your comments and advise is greatly appreciated. All the best, Joe Mac
  15. Thanks Moses - I'll see if I can check as to what type of bleeding was performed! That is the exact EBC package I want to install. I'll talk to EVB and see what they can do with my rotors etc. I am scheduled for next Thursday so I'll let you know what I decide. All the best, Joe Mac
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