Joe Friday

Nothing against the Roadkill site... but when I looked up 1945 Jeep CJ it showed one listing for all CJ wheels from 1945 to 1986, a 15x6 with a 5 on 5.5 bolt circle and a 110 mm bore. Obviously there were many widths and diameters of wheels on the CJ over the years with that bolt pattern. The actual wheel bore to fit over the locking hubs however is 4.25 inches or 108mm. I suppose that this is close enough to 110 with rounding error... or they want a loose fit on the bore so the wheels don't get stuck on by corrosion. Most of the data I see comes from a company called Global Insight, sort of a Hollanders for all auto specs. (This is a paid service.) I also find the Bennett Garfield Plus sizing (tire guide) handy but it only goes back to 1998.

A simple answer would be, "No." You don't have to replace your OE studs unless you can no longer reach the specified torque without slipping. The stud spec I have in front of me (Jeep CJ) says they start with SAE 1020 steel, roll the threads, and harden to a Brinell Hardness of 248 (very hard). The tensile strength is over 110,000 PSI. You really don't stretch passenger car/suv studs like the stretch on a head bolt. You need to stretch the head bolt in the elastic yield range to reduce the effects of fatigue as mentioned from heating/cooling cycles. You never want to have the bolt get cold enough to shrink and lose torque. Wheels are typically designed to flex a little and act like a big lock washer. The exception to this rule is what the wheel balancer companies erroneously refer to as Hub Centric or Lug Centric. If the wheel does pilot on the hub or 'spigot', then the wheel probably does not have tapered lug nuts, but instead has collared lug nuts with washers. These washers are not flat, and they act like a bellville cone to provide torque retention for the nuts. I read somewhere (a Toyota Bulletin I can no longer find) that after three tire changes, or when these washers lose their cone shape, whichever comes first, the washers should be replaced.