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WMCCALL

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About WMCCALL

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/24/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Murrieta, CA
  • Interests
    Keeping the Jeeps out of the garage and avoiding work on the wife's Volvo. None of that ever happens.
  1. Thanks Moses! I'll get underneath it this weekend and check it out and let you know what I find.
  2. CV driveshaft, 4.5" suspension, motor lifted 1", 1.25 body lift, and still has an uneeded t-case drop. So, the powertrain does sit at noticeable angle towards the rear. The rearend is a low pinion 9". In gear (clutch disengaged) going backwards is when it happens and the knock tempo speeds up the faster I go in reverse and of course is slower at normal 2 to 3ish MPH in reverse. With a magnetic angle finder the driveshaft sits at exactly 10 deg. Besides the knock, it really seems to be fine. But the knock does seem to move the shifter a little, so maybe the rocking is a possibility. I do have an aftermarket new tranny mount that has been sitting the garage for a few years now. Maybe it's time to throw it on.
  3. 1997 TJ 4.0, AX-15, 130k miles. In reverse a loud knock occurs and I can feel it in the shifter. In 1st-5th gears there is no knock and the transmission acts healthy with no issues and the Redline MTL is about a 2 years old. The knock goes away when shifted to neutral and coasting backwards. The knock is loud enough to be heard outside of the vehicle. Which of course makes everybody scream bad u-joints. Sounds like a rotational noise. Just to add; rear drive shaft is new only has about 100 miles on it (yoke at the pinion got smashed on previous one) and the knock was there before that. I noticed the knock after running off a small hill at about 25mph and the landing was pretty hard. Also, after that same launch my RPM guage pegged all the way (clockwise) back to zero and has not worked since. But, I don't really care about that just yet. I know it's been awhile since I've been on here, I hope to be a regular from now on. Thanks Moses! Wayman
  4. Been talking about stroking the 242 block I got last year for a while now, but I got tied up with building my XJ and fixing some suspension "over build" (it had 9" of lift) issues with the TJ I bought last summer. Also, got on the idea of a SBC or SBF swap for a while. Now that I've pretty much tapped my "Jeep savings", I'm back to building the extra 4.0L with money being tight for the project. I read in Moses' articles that just adding the 258 crankshaft with a 242 rebuild will also do wonders. Will I really see any reasonable gains or should I just put the money elsewhere instead of getting the 258 crank? I want to keep the build below $2k. That should be enough for machining, master rebuild kit, valvetrain, etc. Also, I would like to throw a clutch in there too. I scraped pretty much everything from the 242 tear down, but the block, crank, and the head is bare. The motor was in a salvage yard and the valves were rusty. Thanks, Wayman
  5. That's the plan is to just smooth them out. I really want to avoid the J-B Weld as best as possible. This is my first motor build, so I want to be patient and very detailed about the build.
  6. Looks like the hole under the timing is just above the hole for the lifter. I watched one of the Tony Hewes stoker videos and the block that was using the 258 rods you guys were talking about appears to have the same hole. But couldn't really get a good look.
  7. On Comp Cams website they state in the notes for the 4.0L camshafts that only one is for fuel injected (Grind#: X4250H-13, Part#: 68-232-4). It’s puzzling. On retailers (Summit, etc) websites nothing is said about it. My choice is the Part#: 68-200-4, Grind#: 252H due to your build channel. Given Comp Cams choices and whatever someone’s personal choice is, does it really matter between fuel injected or not just as long as it is a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft? Ref: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/cam-search-results.aspx?sc=1&sm=By%20Engine%20Family
  8. http://s1244.photobucket.com/user/wmmccall/library/?sort=3&page=1 Above is a link to some (larger) pictures of some holes in my 242 block. Casting#: 53010341, Date: 3/14/1997. Salvage yard said it "tested good". All my small block chevy friends say don't worry about them and if I am worried to just JB weld them. This my first tear down and hopefully stroke it with the rebuild. The holes to me appear to be from some kind of wear, but don't look like they will affect anything. Should I grind a little to prevent chipping or pieces flaking off. Note: I did see a picture of the XJ it came from and it was salvaged due to a bad passenger side collision...or so it appeared. Thanks, Wayman
  9. I've read a many a time in Jp Magazine and forums that the '97 XJ has wiring issues, but I can never get a specific answer when I ask what they are. Many other XJ owners recommend staying away from the year model, especially the early '97 production. I believe to May or June. I have a '97 XJ that drove out of the factory in May '97 and none of the issues have revealed themselves. Note: I did do a gauge cluster swap from "idiot lights" to dial gauges from the same year model. The oil pressure, fuel level, and RPM's are off from what the computer puts out; but not enough for me to go back to the lights.
  10. Moses, I know your a hardcore 4.0L, especially stroking one, kinda of guy, but I hear far to many folks say that the AX-15 can not handle V8 (300hp, 300 ft lbs +/-) over time...but some say it can. Would like some input from the "Jeep God" himself. Seems other forums are just opinon. Got a lot of dirt track friends with access to cheap SBC's, Ford 302's and such. Thanks again.
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