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Rinky Dink

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  1. Rinky Dink
    I have found there are two problems with the CJ5. I would imagine the CJ7 is the same. 1st problem; The hi/lo floor switch. Being on the floor in a vehicle that is not exactly the most dust or water proof, the switch and the bare connectors will corrode and in doing so, will build up resistance, This will reduce the available voltage to the bulbs. They may be designed as 12 volt but you may be delivering as little as 6 volts to the bulb. You could install a relay, wired direct from the battery and switched via the floor dimmer switch. This would give you full voltage to the bulb. Locating the relay under the hood protects it from water and dirt. Just be sure to fuse any modifications you make. 2nd problem; The factory wire feeding the headlights is under sized. Replacing it with something more stout will ensure all available voltage is delivered to the bulb. This is an easy fix to increase the wire gauge while you install the above mentioned relay.
  2. Rinky Dink
    Hello Moses, It has been awhile and I need to post an up date on the carb issue. After talking about the problem to a mechanic that I know he directed me to a local one man carb shop. One of the things I have learned (per the Calif State smog ref), is that the MC 2150 never came on the 304. Now when I was looking for a carb I saw the bore difference, the 2100 with 1.08" and the 2150 with 1.21" so of course I went with the bigger carb. Little did I know. This little carb shop uses an exhaust sniffer to jet the carb to suit the engine. He pinched shut off the air injection thereby disabling the cat in order to see the true exhaust chemistry. What gasses came out the exhaust port is what came out the tailpipe. It turns out the rebuilt carb I bought was jetted for a 360. It was way over jetted. Like 6 or 7 main sizes too rich. $100 later I have an old jeep that easily passes smog, with emissions way below the allowed average. Starts easy, will idle all day and meters without a hiccup off road. That was money well spent.
  3. Rinky Dink
    My major issue with this setup prescribed by Moser is there is nothing to keep the axle from just sliding out of the housing. The outer race, being held by the backing plate, has it's taper pointing outward. In this position, nothing but the seal is holding the axle in place. For this to work as it should, the bearing needs to be turned 180. I had read all of the AMC / Moser forums and found nothing that actually discussed my concern. Last night I found a Moser axle thread on a Jeep forum. It described a series of immediate bearing failures that was resolved by having a mechanic friend assist on the 3rd try. I have to assume the mechanic did the install his way. Reading this convinced me I was correct. I stopped by my SKF dealer this morning and asked his opinion. He said that the way it is shown in their assembly diagram is wrong, or at least the bearing wouldn't perform correctly. He also agreed the 0.080" preload was grossly excessive. (Bending of the backing plate was also in one of the forum threads) So, I'm going to do it the way I think it should be done. Flip the bearing and use the factory shims to give it 0.015" preload. Put a few miles on it and recheck.
  4. Rinky Dink
    In speaking with Moser, per their instruction, the 0.020 - 0.080" stickout and the resulting preload imparted by the brake backing plate is intentional. I have plenty of experience with tapered bearings and I know how preload is supposed to work. This ring preloads the roller cage and the outer race. As I read their install sheet the thicker side of the inner race (roller taper) should be pointing toward the center of the axle. This seems counter intuitive to preloading the bearing. It should have opposing force directed through both races. The roller cage should never have any loading. Guess I'll just do what they tell me. I'll need to find a replacement SKF BR9 as I broke the first one.
  5. Rinky Dink
    After pondering the situation I came to the conclusion that the instructions left out the need to use OE shims between the axle housing and the backing plate, to take up the spec'ed .02 - .08 bearing stick out. Removing the odd ring from the bearing will result in the bearing cage getting hung up on the backing plate. Couldn't see that last night. I need to stop going this stuff in the dark. Quite obviously whoever wrote the instructions didn't know that OE setup does not use shims on the right side of the axle. Looks like I need to redo the right side and replace that bearing..
  6. Rinky Dink
    After re-reading what I wrote, without knowing what I was describing, it sounds a bit like gibberish. A pdf of their instructions. http://www.moserengineering.com/moser/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/JeepInstructions.pdf Apparently the second hub also spun. It is so trashed that mu little press wouldn't budge the hub. I had to torch the axle to retrieve the brake backing plate. I believe the new axle install problem is tight splines. The only locker Moser warns of is the factory locker as it uses a different carrier. I have a Spartan which fit in the standard carrier. I would assume that it should not be a problem. I test fit the second axle and it too is tight in the locker spline engagement. The axle splines are not tapered so again assume just snug. I'll be carefully checking the bearing, housing and backing plate interface. I really suspect that the ring on the bearing is meant to be removed, even though their instructions don't say to do so. This time i'll silicon the seal end plate and lightly bolt it to the backing plate before pressing the bearing on the axle. Went and did some measuring. OD of the axle bearing is 2.535, ID of that odd ring on the bearing is 2.25. ID of the brake backing plate is 2.255, so there you go. I would assume the ring should be removed before pressing. Removing it will leave a step in the bearing to act as a retaining feature.
  7. Rinky Dink
    Ok, Beat on the axle with the dead blow a bit more. Got it in to the point where I could fit the 4 retaining bolts. Snugged them up and the axle locks up. Tried whacking it some more and nothing loosened. Backed off the bolt tension and the axle loosened up again. Whacked it some more and re-tightened the bolts. Could tell the bearing was moving. Finally got all the bolts tightened, gave it a few more whacks on the axle and it turns free with no end play. Certainly doesn't seem like the right way to do this.
  8. Rinky Dink
    Hello Moses, After doing the rebuild on my M-20, I managed to spin a hub while driving it around on the street. I never liked 2 piece axles so this was a good reason to go single piece. Based on their reputation, I bought a set of the Moser Engineering axles. Figured it would be a straight forward swap. All I can say is their instructions leave a whole lot to be desired. Looking at their instruction page, #4, this axle bearing stuck out 0.120." Their instruction says to grind the spacer ring to get the desired protrusion. They don't state where to grind to get this correct stick out. The AMC housing I.D. has a series of steps. Perhaps I was over thinking the concept but I decided to try making a taper on the O.D. of the seal end of the spacer ring. That didn't have much effect so I took some off the seal end. Not much change. Ended up taking it off the bearing end and got the bearing seating @0.08 so it was within spec. Seems like a lame way to do something. Were AMC axle housings made that inaccurately? On to the next adventure.. Pressing the bearing on the axle. Installed the retainer, backing plates, bearing and press ring using a manual 12 T press. Pushed the bearing and ring until I felt a increase in the resistance. Slide the axle into the housing and it is obvious the bearing is not seated as the axle is sitting way too far out of the housing. The SKF 331579B bearing ID is 1.3775, the axle has a stepped bearing surface 1.378 / 1.380. I repressed it until the bearing was obviously stopped. On installing the axle, I discovered that the bearing OD is greater than the backing plate's ID. The bearing has an odd "retention ring" on it that seems to hold the bearing race halves together. Without removing this ring, the backing plate would sit proud of the housing by 0.80." That can't be correct. Without pressing off the bearing, I managed to flex this ring to the point where it broke and the backing plate would now sit flush with the axle housing. This leaves you with very little room to apply the sealer but it can be done. At this point I have to assume the bearing is located correctly on the axle. I believe I am having issues with the axle seating in the locker splines. It feels quite tight and the bearing is still 3/8 - 1/2" away from seating in the housing. I have given the axle some whacks with the dead blow and that seems to have made it tighter in the splines, to the point when I may need a puller to remove it. I wonder if the new locker splines got damaged by the old axle or if it is just a tight fit. Called Moser for direction but they are closed for the weekend. Seems nothing is ever easy.
  9. Rinky Dink
    I ended up removing the axles (& bearing races) in order to pull the locker and install the axle spacer block. I was able to do this without pulling the carrier. The axles had to clear splined plates of the locker. Had to remove the entire locker in order to fit the spacer block within it. A few hours later I have it all buttoned up. Axle end play set to .005." So far the axle has about 10 miles on it. Nice & quiet. Really no sound at all. Locker is very evident, clacking quite loudly in tight radius turns, the inner wheel chirps & scrubs coming out of corners on the throttle. Went and jacked the axle off the ground and checked the shimming. As I expected, it feels to have loosened a bit so I'll be revisiting the left hub soon just to tighten it a bit. Thanks for the feedback on this project. Next up: Dana 300 & T-176 Rebuild. Let the fun begin!
  10. Rinky Dink
    Next on my list of "Things to do" is rebuild my Dana 300. What kit did you use?
  11. Rinky Dink
    I had read on some on-line commentary that the spartan instructions left something to be desired. I'll be sure to send them a note on the matter. The locker kit came with a new cross pin.
  12. Rinky Dink
    The pinion & carrier is installed. Carrier preloaded @ .008. This was set after setting the backlash. Reconfirmed backlash @ .008 ' after final setup. The pattern looks good, the backlash is in spec. The torque spec on the ring bolts is 105 ft/lb. I set them at 90-95 ft/lb along with red locktite. Ring gear run-out is .001 - .0015 so within spec. The axle side movement is the current issue.I am hoping that spacer block is the solution.
  13. Rinky Dink
    Ok, got the dif all back together. The right axle is in and retainer plate torqued to spec. Interestingly the axle has about a 1/4" end play. I figured that might go away with the left side installed. Left side bearing and seal in and it also has about a 1/4" end play. Both bearing races are flush with the axle flanges. It now has the Spartan locker replacing the spider & side gears. Their instructions did not call for the OE axle spacer block to be reinstalled. I am thinking perhaps it should be, assuming there is enough space to do so. Time to take it back apart.
  14. Rinky Dink
    In my experience with oil seals, the lip spring should always be on the side where you want to retain oil or grease. In this case, spring should be closest to the bearing.
  15. Rinky Dink
    Ordered a Motive Gear Master rebuild kit along with a Spartan Locker. Ran into two problems, one my fault, one not. Turns out I ordered the locker for a Dana 30 rather than the AMC M-20. So I now have a locker to fit the front. Reordered the correct one for the rear so I'll have both axles locked. That'll be a first for me. What I did was replace the pinion bearings and used the original shim thickness as a starting depth using new shims. The AMC axle carrier has a minimum/starting shim of 0.080" per side. Both of the fat carrier shims in this axle were toast. It turns out the shim set in the Motive Gear kit was insufficient to actually shim it from scratch. I called them up to tell them of this. They were completely cooperative on getting me an additional shim set but I needed to order it through a dealer. Called Summit Racing. No problem. Had it in two days at no cost. Anyway, Carrier is installed with saddles bolted tight. Haven't done the carrier preload yet but it looks pretty good. 0.007-.008 backlash. I think the pattern is ok, showing centered on coast side and a bias toward the toe on the drive. From what I have read that is normal for a used gear set. What do you think? Time to set the carrier shim preload and If everything look good it'll be back together this weekend, just in time for the 4th. Very happy with these vendors; Fast shipping and good communication from both of them. Summit Racing - Motive Gears Master kit Completeoffroad.com - Spartan Lockers
  16. Rinky Dink
    Finally ended up pulling the axle and pressing it out before I saw your reply. Cleaned out the housing really well. You would think I hit the Comstock lode from all the silver flakes that came out of that thing. I put it mostly back together last night, starting with the original pinion depth shim. Made up a set of "fitting" bearings for the pinion. Did a pattern check. The depth looks good but need to move the ring gear inward, or that's what I believe. Drive side looks good but the coast side is biased toward the toe. Made a case spreader at a total cost of about $40.00. We will see how it works tonight with setting the carrier preload. Wouldn't mind having a pinion depth gauge but I don't want to pop for a tool I'll use once a decade or two. Its a bit more work doing a trial fit and modify but I prefer to spend the money elsewhere. The pinion gears were both sketchy and needed replacing. I can't imagine a two legged 4x4 so I made the obvious choice. With comparable cost to replacement spider & side gears, I went and ordered one of the "lunchbox" lockers. We will see how it works.
  17. Rinky Dink
    Hello Moses, Finally got the Rinky Dink jeep through the byzantine maze that is the Calif DMV, BAR Smog Referee and the CHP. Got the title completed and a new set of plates. 1st drive reveals mucho noise and vibration from the rear axle. Long story short, the axle should have .008" end play shows .250." Open the thing up and the carrier has .125" play. Not good. I questioned whether I wanted to tackle this as I have never built an axle. Talking with my son he said, Why not, If you can build a bevel Ducati engine (8 bevel gears) you can certainly build an axle. So, this is my question. Everything is out of the axle but for the pinion. Nut & yoke off. Everything is clear. Smack the pinion with the dead blow and its not budging. There is not clearance to put a puller to from the back side. I don't want to beat the crap out of it. Any insight or suggestions on removing this?
  18. Rinky Dink
    The carb was bought from a professional carb shop so I doubt there would be any issue with it. I talked with them today and questioned them re the setup. They did question whether there was visible fuel leakage in the throttle bores. That's kinda hard to check with a mechanical pump. They said it was highly unlikely that the float level would be wrong as they wet test every product they build. They did suggest leaning the altitude aneroid, starting with a 1/2 turn. Tried this this afternoon. Leaned the aneroid, let it warm up and it still had the miss. I threw the vac gauge back on the manifold and advanced the dist until it showed 19" steady on the gauge and it seemed to run the best. This is about 5-6" improvement from the spec'ed timing numbers. The miss is greatly reduced and the best part is the cat no longer glows. I figure to just take it to the smog guys and hope it passes. I know them so they should be good to me. This timing advancing makes me wonder if the dist is off by one tooth, and, would it make any difference, as it fires at 5 btdc on the #1 as per the manual and yet it idled like crap. I haven't touched the head bolts. There are no obvious leaks and the coolant isn't dropping. At this point I don't want to risk opening a larger can o worms. There is always the possibility that low cylinder could be leaking over to the adjacent but I think it would show on both cylinder's numbers. I checked the EGR with a Minivac. The diaphragm opened and choked the idle rpm so I assumed it was ok. I guess I should take the evap can apart and go through it just to be sure. Thanks for your insight on this project. It's getting there.
  19. Rinky Dink
    Moses, Turns out the return line was plugged, well enough that 100 psi wouldn't clear it. Installed a new hard line. Still running rich enough that it is fouling plugs so I checked the fuel pressure. At idle it runs 1.5 - 3 psi, spiking to 7 on revving it so pressure should not be an issue. I pulled the coil wire from the dist and cranked it, showing nice white fat spark. Did the same with one of the leads from a fouling plug - orange and weak. Leads me to think the wires are no good. Installed a set of Accel 8mm wires + new plugs and turned the idle screws in a 1/2 turn so they are 1 turn out. Restarted and let it idle. By the time the water temp was up close to normal it started to idle rougher, obviously missing on one or more cylinders. I should add the cat was starting to glow red so obviously getting too much fuel. WTH! Crank open the throttle and the engine revs well with the occasional carb backfire and closed throttle over-run popping. I can't find any manifold leaks. Sprayed carb cleaner everywhere to no effect on the idle. 7 out of 8 cylinders have 150-160 cranking psi with the remaining @ 135 rising to 145 with a bit of JB squirted in the cylinder( probably either worn or stuck rings). New (professionally rebuilt) carb, new fuel filter, new dist, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. Timed @ 5' with vac advance off & plugged, Ported vac to the dist.and it shows advancment Everything I can think of is done with the only thing remaining would be a stuck float needle. As it is new, I really didn't want to open the carb. Looks like that is next. I'll be checking the main jets also. From what I have found they should be 47-49. Do you know of anything different? Any ideas? Tim
  20. Rinky Dink
    In the on-going saga that is the Rinky Dink resuscitation, I thought I was done, or nearly so. After a decade or two of silence the mighty 304 coughed and sputtered to life. With a bit of fiddling it seemed to run pretty good though it was certainly running rich. Towed it down to the muffler shop and with a few hours and $650 swapping hands it now possessed a California Compliant Cat exhaust. Towed it back home and started it up to the muted whisper of the Flowmaster muffler. As it sat there idling it seemed to progressively run worse. My son happened to stand in front of the exhaust outlet and commented on how hot it was. Sure enough, the exhaust was hot enough to seriously burn you. Shut it down and looked at the cat. It had already started to discolor. Obviously the carb was dumping a ton of fuel into the engine. The sooted up plugs confirmed this. Now this got my head scratching. New carb, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor, fuel pump, filter, rubber, tank. Timed correctly @ 5 BTDC. Last night it occurred to me that the fuel pump was over pressurizing the carb and pushing fuel into the engine. I figured the the fuel return line must be plugged. When I had replaced the fuel tank I had flushed the fuel inlet line but not the return line. This is the 1st carbureted vehicle I have had with a fuel return, just like an injection system. At the time, I thought it was only a vent. Wrongo! Home for lunch I did a quick disconnect at the filter and tried blowing air through the line. Nothing happened. I disconnected the return line at the tank and tried blowing again. Still nothing. Tonight I'll try the air compressor. Hope this is the cure.
  21. Rinky Dink
    Don't know if you still need this but there is a current listing in the Orange County, CA Craigslist for some of this stuff.
  22. Rinky Dink
    If it is a D 300 the diagram shows 6 bolts on the trans side.
  23. Rinky Dink
    Link to the TSM Transfer Case page. http://oljeep.com/gw/82_tsm/Part 2 Section D.pdf To me that looks like a stretched out "C" clip.
  24. Rinky Dink
    Hi Moses, That distributor was toast. Even with the cover off and using a 2lb lineman's hammer it wouldn't budge. Actually bent the steel rod trying. I was able to pick up two OE dist's along with a new wire set, ignition control box & coil for $40. One of these distributors is a new re-manufacture! I call this thing Rinky Dink because it "was" cheap $800. I figured to get it running, smogged & registered and just have a cheap jeep for when I go desert camping. What it has turned into is the rabbit hole straight out of Alice in Wonderland. Fixing one issue just leads to another. So, I figured I was halfway there so I may as well change out the rear main seal. Pulled the pan and glad I did. The inside looked like a refugee from an oil refinery waste site. Sludge & carbon bits 1/2" deep and stuck like glue. Between the inside and outside, that pan took at least an hour to get reasonably cleaned up. Don't know the condition of the cam. For the brief period it ran, it didn't sound bad. I would like to put a mild cam in it but at this point it is a question of throwing good money after bad. I don't know which way it is going to go. Most of my mechanical knowledge is related to motorcycle engines. I am curious as to the procedure of a leak down test without pulling the manifolds? How do you do it?
  25. Rinky Dink
    Ok, managed to salvage the dist drive gear. The rest of this mess is scrap. The cam drive chain is beyond the 1/2" play spec so I ordered Bulltear's USA made, double row chain & sprockets. While waiting for that to arrive I blueprinted the oil pump that came with the new Crown Timing case. The pump end play needed to be set and also the oil passages needed cleaning up, of some flashing and some obvious casting short cuts. A couple of sharp edges have been opened and radiused. The steel tube insert is in the cover. It was pressed in after the casting was made. I had read that some cheaper covers were missing this feature. Plastigage showed something greater than .007" clearance on the gears & end plate. Measured the new gasket @ .017." Tried fitting it without a gasket but that was too tight. Couldn't find any loose gasket material thinner than the new gasket at the auto parts store so I scrounged an old paper grocery bag. It measured .007." I cut it to fit, applied Permatex Non-hardening liquid sealer and bolted it up. Plastigage shows it is @ .004." Perfectly between the spec'ed .002-.006. Pump spins free and is packed with vaseline I'll be making a priming tool from the remains of the old dist. The new pump end plate has also deleted the filter by-pass.
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