Rinky Dink

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About Rinky Dink

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Huntington Beach, Calif
  • Interests
    Off- road camping, Bevel drive Ducati, 4x4 Square Body GM trucks
  1. I ended up removing the axles (& bearing races) in order to pull the locker and install the axle spacer block. I was able to do this without pulling the carrier. The axles had to clear splined plates of the locker. Had to remove the entire locker in order to fit the spacer block within it. A few hours later I have it all buttoned up. Axle end play set to .005." So far the axle has about 10 miles on it. Nice & quiet. Really no sound at all. Locker is very evident, clacking quite loudly in tight radius turns, the inner wheel chirps & scrubs coming out of corners on the throttle. Went and jacked the axle off the ground and checked the shimming. As I expected, it feels to have loosened a bit so I'll be revisiting the left hub soon just to tighten it a bit. Thanks for the feedback on this project. Next up: Dana 300 & T-176 Rebuild. Let the fun begin!
  2. Next on my list of "Things to do" is rebuild my Dana 300. What kit did you use?
  3. I had read on some on-line commentary that the spartan instructions left something to be desired. I'll be sure to send them a note on the matter. The locker kit came with a new cross pin.
  4. The pinion & carrier is installed. Carrier preloaded @ .008. This was set after setting the backlash. Reconfirmed backlash @ .008 ' after final setup. The pattern looks good, the backlash is in spec. The torque spec on the ring bolts is 105 ft/lb. I set them at 90-95 ft/lb along with red locktite. Ring gear run-out is .001 - .0015 so within spec. The axle side movement is the current issue.I am hoping that spacer block is the solution.
  5. Ok, got the dif all back together. The right axle is in and retainer plate torqued to spec. Interestingly the axle has about a 1/4" end play. I figured that might go away with the left side installed. Left side bearing and seal in and it also has about a 1/4" end play. Both bearing races are flush with the axle flanges. It now has the Spartan locker replacing the spider & side gears. Their instructions did not call for the OE axle spacer block to be reinstalled. I am thinking perhaps it should be, assuming there is enough space to do so. Time to take it back apart.
  6. In my experience with oil seals, the lip spring should always be on the side where you want to retain oil or grease. In this case, spring should be closest to the bearing.
  7. Ordered a Motive Gear Master rebuild kit along with a Spartan Locker. Ran into two problems, one my fault, one not. Turns out I ordered the locker for a Dana 30 rather than the AMC M-20. So I now have a locker to fit the front. Reordered the correct one for the rear so I'll have both axles locked. That'll be a first for me. What I did was replace the pinion bearings and used the original shim thickness as a starting depth using new shims. The AMC axle carrier has a minimum/starting shim of 0.080" per side. Both of the fat carrier shims in this axle were toast. It turns out the shim set in the Motive Gear kit was insufficient to actually shim it from scratch. I called them up to tell them of this. They were completely cooperative on getting me an additional shim set but I needed to order it through a dealer. Called Summit Racing. No problem. Had it in two days at no cost. Anyway, Carrier is installed with saddles bolted tight. Haven't done the carrier preload yet but it looks pretty good. 0.007-.008 backlash. I think the pattern is ok, showing centered on coast side and a bias toward the toe on the drive. From what I have read that is normal for a used gear set. What do you think? Time to set the carrier shim preload and If everything look good it'll be back together this weekend, just in time for the 4th. Very happy with these vendors; Fast shipping and good communication from both of them. Summit Racing - Motive Gears Master kit Completeoffroad.com - Spartan Lockers
  8. Finally ended up pulling the axle and pressing it out before I saw your reply. Cleaned out the housing really well. You would think I hit the Comstock lode from all the silver flakes that came out of that thing. I put it mostly back together last night, starting with the original pinion depth shim. Made up a set of "fitting" bearings for the pinion. Did a pattern check. The depth looks good but need to move the ring gear inward, or that's what I believe. Drive side looks good but the coast side is biased toward the toe. Made a case spreader at a total cost of about $40.00. We will see how it works tonight with setting the carrier preload. Wouldn't mind having a pinion depth gauge but I don't want to pop for a tool I'll use once a decade or two. Its a bit more work doing a trial fit and modify but I prefer to spend the money elsewhere. The pinion gears were both sketchy and needed replacing. I can't imagine a two legged 4x4 so I made the obvious choice. With comparable cost to replacement spider & side gears, I went and ordered one of the "lunchbox" lockers. We will see how it works.
  9. Hello Moses, Finally got the Rinky Dink jeep through the byzantine maze that is the Calif DMV, BAR Smog Referee and the CHP. Got the title completed and a new set of plates. 1st drive reveals mucho noise and vibration from the rear axle. Long story short, the axle should have .008" end play shows .250." Open the thing up and the carrier has .125" play. Not good. I questioned whether I wanted to tackle this as I have never built an axle. Talking with my son he said, Why not, If you can build a bevel Ducati engine (8 bevel gears) you can certainly build an axle. So, this is my question. Everything is out of the axle but for the pinion. Nut & yoke off. Everything is clear. Smack the pinion with the dead blow and its not budging. There is not clearance to put a puller to from the back side. I don't want to beat the crap out of it. Any insight or suggestions on removing this?
  10. The carb was bought from a professional carb shop so I doubt there would be any issue with it. I talked with them today and questioned them re the setup. They did question whether there was visible fuel leakage in the throttle bores. That's kinda hard to check with a mechanical pump. They said it was highly unlikely that the float level would be wrong as they wet test every product they build. They did suggest leaning the altitude aneroid, starting with a 1/2 turn. Tried this this afternoon. Leaned the aneroid, let it warm up and it still had the miss. I threw the vac gauge back on the manifold and advanced the dist until it showed 19" steady on the gauge and it seemed to run the best. This is about 5-6" improvement from the spec'ed timing numbers. The miss is greatly reduced and the best part is the cat no longer glows. I figure to just take it to the smog guys and hope it passes. I know them so they should be good to me. This timing advancing makes me wonder if the dist is off by one tooth, and, would it make any difference, as it fires at 5 btdc on the #1 as per the manual and yet it idled like crap. I haven't touched the head bolts. There are no obvious leaks and the coolant isn't dropping. At this point I don't want to risk opening a larger can o worms. There is always the possibility that low cylinder could be leaking over to the adjacent but I think it would show on both cylinder's numbers. I checked the EGR with a Minivac. The diaphragm opened and choked the idle rpm so I assumed it was ok. I guess I should take the evap can apart and go through it just to be sure. Thanks for your insight on this project. It's getting there.
  11. Moses, Turns out the return line was plugged, well enough that 100 psi wouldn't clear it. Installed a new hard line. Still running rich enough that it is fouling plugs so I checked the fuel pressure. At idle it runs 1.5 - 3 psi, spiking to 7 on revving it so pressure should not be an issue. I pulled the coil wire from the dist and cranked it, showing nice white fat spark. Did the same with one of the leads from a fouling plug - orange and weak. Leads me to think the wires are no good. Installed a set of Accel 8mm wires + new plugs and turned the idle screws in a 1/2 turn so they are 1 turn out. Restarted and let it idle. By the time the water temp was up close to normal it started to idle rougher, obviously missing on one or more cylinders. I should add the cat was starting to glow red so obviously getting too much fuel. WTH! Crank open the throttle and the engine revs well with the occasional carb backfire and closed throttle over-run popping. I can't find any manifold leaks. Sprayed carb cleaner everywhere to no effect on the idle. 7 out of 8 cylinders have 150-160 cranking psi with the remaining @ 135 rising to 145 with a bit of JB squirted in the cylinder( probably either worn or stuck rings). New (professionally rebuilt) carb, new fuel filter, new dist, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. Timed @ 5' with vac advance off & plugged, Ported vac to the dist.and it shows advancment Everything I can think of is done with the only thing remaining would be a stuck float needle. As it is new, I really didn't want to open the carb. Looks like that is next. I'll be checking the main jets also. From what I have found they should be 47-49. Do you know of anything different? Any ideas? Tim
  12. In the on-going saga that is the Rinky Dink resuscitation, I thought I was done, or nearly so. After a decade or two of silence the mighty 304 coughed and sputtered to life. With a bit of fiddling it seemed to run pretty good though it was certainly running rich. Towed it down to the muffler shop and with a few hours and $650 swapping hands it now possessed a California Compliant Cat exhaust. Towed it back home and started it up to the muted whisper of the Flowmaster muffler. As it sat there idling it seemed to progressively run worse. My son happened to stand in front of the exhaust outlet and commented on how hot it was. Sure enough, the exhaust was hot enough to seriously burn you. Shut it down and looked at the cat. It had already started to discolor. Obviously the carb was dumping a ton of fuel into the engine. The sooted up plugs confirmed this. Now this got my head scratching. New carb, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor, fuel pump, filter, rubber, tank. Timed correctly @ 5 BTDC. Last night it occurred to me that the fuel pump was over pressurizing the carb and pushing fuel into the engine. I figured the the fuel return line must be plugged. When I had replaced the fuel tank I had flushed the fuel inlet line but not the return line. This is the 1st carbureted vehicle I have had with a fuel return, just like an injection system. At the time, I thought it was only a vent. Wrongo! Home for lunch I did a quick disconnect at the filter and tried blowing air through the line. Nothing happened. I disconnected the return line at the tank and tried blowing again. Still nothing. Tonight I'll try the air compressor. Hope this is the cure.
  13. Don't know if you still need this but there is a current listing in the Orange County, CA Craigslist for some of this stuff.
  14. If it is a D 300 the diagram shows 6 bolts on the trans side.
  15. Link to the TSM Transfer Case page. http://oljeep.com/gw/82_tsm/Part 2 Section D.pdf To me that looks like a stretched out "C" clip.