Jump to content

Moses Ludel

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won



About Moses Ludel

  • Rank
  • Birthday June 7

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests
    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

Recent Profile Visitors

4,596 profile views
  1. 57 willys pick up another project

    Ian, I understand how the cost of an original Willys bed and rear fenders would be exorbitant at Australia. One option that's gaining popularity in the U.S. is the flatbed conversion. Many Willys pickups actually did have flat beds for ranch and utility use. Just a thought...You're handy with fit and modifications, a flatbed done right could look right and be functional. Case in point, a good friend at Reno, Nevada just bought a '17 Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4 and immediately replaced the stock bed with a flatbed and head rack conversion. His aim is a custom camper mounted on the flatbed, another approach that's gaining popularity here. Moses
  2. Arby123...The circlip is a likely clue. Check all transmission internal shift linkage and parts alignment. Find the home for this circlip. The manual valve inner detent lever nut is one of the areas to check. Check the manual valve linkage thoroughly from outside the transmission case to the valve body. A quote from the Ford F-truck factory E4OD shop manual section is important: "...Manual valve inner detent lever must be seated on flats of shaft, and rod assembly must be through guide plate." The manual lever roll pin at the oil pan mating face below the manual shaft is critical to aligning the manual lever. Look over the manual valve linkage carefully. If not a mechanical linkage issue, this could be a solenoid issue, probably the low-reverse solenoid. If the internal transmission linkage is not the problem, check the shift solenoids. The wiring is an obvious place to look, but this could be a solenoid that is actually defective or slipping out of position. The fact that the situation is erratic leans toward a loose wiring connection or a defective and/or loose solenoid. For solenoids or switches, it's hard to diagnose this by "try this, try that" method. The use of diagnostic equipment that interrogates the flow of electrical current and the functions of the solenoid circuits is always helpful. Are you getting any codes? If so, please share them, that will at least narrow down the problem area. Moses
  3. 57 willys pick up another project

    Wow, innovative in a sense. Run what you brung stuff! The gearbox, in particular, looks like early Land Cruiser? Not sure how far back the hydraulic clutch linkage dates...Interesting! Glad you're philosophical and primarily interested in the frame and body. A place to start if you can find a Willys bed. Or is that the aim?
  4. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Rinky Dink...I, too, was surprised that the backing plate would be a preload determinant. A backing plate is stamped steel and flexes. Where's the "preload" specification for that kind of approach? Has anyone else reversed the bearing direction? Agreed that the current direction seems to prevent the axle shaft from moving inward. Outward resistance is strictly the backing plate pressure against the bearing cups. Let us know what you wind up doing. As an important point to consider, the factory OE axle shaft bearings are not preloaded. They call for a 0.004"-0.008" (0.006" preferred) end play adjustment. Shims are installed only at the left side of the axle to achieve this end play. If you set a 0.015" preload on the bearings, which would be zero end play then removing 0.015" shim material to preload the bearings, you will toast the bearings. I've attached a PDF of the factory axle shaft bearing end play adjustment. End play adjustment at the left side assumes that you have the OEM slotted spacer block at the center of the differential (which allows the axle shafts to even up). You are actually adjusting both axle shaft bearings from the left side: 1981-86 Jeep CJ Axle Shaft Bearing End Play Adjustment.pdf Moses
  5. Yea, Ian, the original purpose for the AMC/Jeep CJs! Should be lots of fun...Moses
  6. 57 willys pick up another project

    Good idea...rust is a challenge. Keep us posted, this is an interesting project, glad your wife likes the color choice and supports your project(s)!
  7. Wow! Manufactured at Australia, a righthand drive '75 CJ-5. What are your ultimate plans for this Jeep?
  8. 57 willys pick up another project

    Ian, your willingness to tackle these projects is amazing. The rust alone would thwart most builders. These cannabalized vehicles with hybrid, innovative powertrains are a testimony to previous owners' willingness to make do with whatever components were available. Do you know the history of this truck? Contemplating the paint job color already? Your commitment and enthusiasm is nothing short of impressive! Moses
  9. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Sounds like we're old hands at tapered roller bearings, I've been working with them "professionally" for 50 years now... Your photos are helpful. Regardless of the engineering soundness, the objective with the supplied ring is clear: Moser is setting either a specific float range (end play) or roller preload. The ring is even with the bearing cage and acts as a stop for the movement of the roller bearings outward. With the cup/outer race open in this direction, there would be no other means for keeping the axle shaft from sailing outward or at least to the backing plate. The stickout from the housing flange assures that the brake backing plate will act as a fixed stop for the ring and bearing cage. When the assembly is fully in place with the backing plate secured, what is the measurable end play of the axle shaft and bearing? If you use a dial indicator at the end of the axle shaft to check end play, push in fully and pull out fully. There should be measurable movement. If not, the bearing rollers are wedged between the inner and outer bearing races and "preloaded". I'm guessing that's not the case and that the rollers get relieved by the position of the bearing cup? On that note, does this setup leave the original bearing cup in place? Is that used as a spacer or stop for Moser's outer bearing cup/race? Does the spacing control the depth of the Moser bearing cup in the axle housing? This is definitely different...Must be a motive here. Moses
  10. Ian...An AMC/Jeep at its righthand drive best! Spicer 20 transfer case and T-14? 232 or 258 six? Let us know what you discover. Fun to see the "export" components that otherwise only come up in U.S. Mopar parts manuals! Moses
  11. 57 willys pick up another project

    Wow, Ian, what a bizarre mix of components and even body panels! Is this "original" or a cobble of parts? What's the history? What were the original pieces, how much of this is the current parts? The front and rear axles look unique, the front with the notch in the housing, the rear is a drop-in center section type. All very interesting, what was the powertrain, the TC looks Model 18 Spicer/Jeep. You find the most unusual "Jeep" vehicles! Moses
  12. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Can you photograph and post a picture of the "ring"? I'd like to see it and make an educated guess about its purpose and/or "safety" need. This is not the bearing retaining lock ring, right? Moses
  13. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Rinky Dink...The hub loosening issue is not unusual. AMC recommended installing a new hub each time one was removed from an axle shaft to assure a "fresh" spline cut. I've marked hubs before removal and had success reinstalling them in the exact same position then setting the shaft nut to the factory specification: The tension/set for these hubs is not a torque setting (although the start-up setting is 250 ft.lbs. minimum); the right tension is the stickout length of the axle shaft outer end, measured from the outer edge of the hub. I have this stickout dimension if anyone needs it, suffice to say I've set these two-piece axle shaft/hubs up by applying the force from my floor jack handle to a 3/4" breaker bar and 6-point socket to achieve the factory stickout length. My best air impact wrench was totally unable to reach this level of torque. For those unaware, the OEM hubs on these AMC 20/Jeep CJ axles have no machined splines. They are cast blank and get their "splines" from the serrated teeth "splines" machined into the factory axle shaft tapers. This demands scary levels of force to cut these splines and secure the hub properly. It's very common for installers not to take the torque to this level, and especially with oversized tires, a "spinout" of the axle shaft within the hub is likely. Let us know how this turns out...If you wind up contacting Moser, I'm curious how they describe the "retention" ring. Something sounds amiss. Did you compare axle shaft lengths from the bearing inner side of the axle shafts (where the bearings seat) to the locker spline ends at each side? The axle shaft lengths are different between OE open and limited slip differentials. Could that be the issue? Do you have the OE locker? Shafts placed correctly right to left? Is the locker spacer block correct for this application, differential and axle shaft lengths? Moses
  14. YZ250 Woods Weapon Build

    The losses this summer have been astounding: Montana, California, throughout the Northwest, including the Columbia Gorge. When this fire season ends, you'll have that long overdue break and decompression time. Keep me posted, there may be room for some riding... Thanks for your public service and dedication to protecting our lands! Moses
  15. Thanks for updating and sharing, Rusty...I learned this lesson with a Brand-X TPS and oxygen sensor on my 4.0L XJ engine. Each did not perform well, the off-shore TPS from a popular high-volume auto parts chain store actually failed, the O2 sensor caused a mysterious engine idle issue. I'm once again a staunch advocate of OEM spec parts. Avoid the generic pieces that fit a variety of applications and may be adequate if your application happens to be the benchmark for the part. You're an electronics pro and can appreciate this. One solution is to buy OEM supplier parts. An example is that NTK supplied Chrysler with the OEM O2 sensor on my '99 XJ Cherokee 4.0L. I took the NTK number from the OE sensor and simply replaced Brand-X with an NTK unit of the right part number. I sourced the best price on the NTK sensor strictly by its part number. Win, win. Moses