Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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    Administrator
  • Birthday June 7

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  • Website URL
    http://www.4WDmechanix.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests
    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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  1. dado150...Time to check for trouble codes. If you have a code reader, you can do that part yourself. AutoZone will usually do a code read for free. Share the thrown codes, I'll help break it down from there. The symptoms are common and could be issues outside the transmission unit itself. Check the codes, note them, then clear the codes and check again. See what comes back up on a clean read. Moses
  2. Seidal12...I did a project involving the CTEK battery chargers and rejuvenation tools. You will find my lengthy video at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/CTEK-Battery-Chargers-for-Battery-Maintenance%2C-Restoration-and-Storage?r=1 This information will help you understand how batteries lose effectiveness and what you can do to save or restore a battery. Moses
  3. Good news, Maineboatbuilder...A savvy NAPA parts counter person can work with your original parts and find the replacement pieces you need: wheel cylinders, brake shoes, hold-down hardware and even the brake tubing or hoses. If they cannot find part numbers for OEM parts that need identification, let me know. I have guides and access to factory part numbers for your truck. NAPA should have catalogs with your parts and the interchange brake parts. Brake tubing is available preformed with double flare ends and flare nuts already in place. Again, NAPA has this tubing if the store is well-equipped. You simply get assembled (generic) lengths of brake tubing that meet your chassis length requirements. There are also brake-rated hydraulic fittings available (Weatherhead brand); be sure to use brake grade components and not the lesser engine-related brass fittings! Brake grade only... Brake hoses are a bit more involved, as the length, fitting ends and sizing is important. NAPA has catalogs full of OEM descriptions and part numbers plus illustrations that can help you replicate parts where the originals are not available. CarQuest, if you get past the lower end of the store and find someone who knows fleet truck operations, may be another parts source. I've seen professional grade fleet service parts catalogs in the CarQuest system. Try your local NAPA or CarQuest store's fleet truck service expert. Your 1210 has common enough brake parts, primarily Bendix, that can be serviced. Moses
  4. Douglas...See my replies in your quoted post: Please keep us updated on Bubba...Wonderful project that brings a flood of memories for many of us! Thanks, Moses
  5. Hi, Douglas...Thanks for sharing your project! I was very satisfied with the clutch upgrade as described; however, the machining can be an issue for many. Drilling and tapping the required flywheel clutch cover bolt holes (using a bigger bolt circle and proper bolt size/threads for the Pinto clutch cover) is not a difficult task. The new, tapped bolt holes in the flywheel can be performed by a qualified machine shop. The key is to establish an accurate bolt circle measured from dead center on the flywheel or a common reference point. A qualified machine shop has ready means for establishing the bolt circle diameter. The clutch cover must spin on center. The clutch cover modification requires milling 0.100” off the face of the Centerforce Pinto pressure plate to get the correct “stack height” from the flywheel through the clutch release bearing. Centerforce performed this milling work for my project, and as you would imagine, they have fixtures and jigs to accommodate such machining. If you do pursue this clutch cover and disc upgrade, with the increased disk surface area and Centerforce clutch cover design, consider having Centerforce provide a custom-machined clutch cover, ready for installation. I suggest contacting Centerforce regarding the project. They can take the approach we did for the book project or perhaps have a more contemporary solution. The gains are obvious, but the work involved and cost may not be justified. If your MB has a relatively stock L134 engine, the original clutch design is adequate. Worth noting, you do not have 5.38 gears like later 4-cylinder Jeep CJs, and the 4.88 gears do increase the clutch load. (Fortunately, the horsepower output is relatively low.) I would definitely stick with the original tire diameter and not mount oversized (bigger diameter) tires. The stock type clutch would have a tough time with the load created by oversized tires, and the engine would suffer, too. I’m guessing that you have restored the T84 transmission, a three-speed? Or did you convert to a later T90? You’re not retrofitting a T98/T98A or T18 four-speed in this case? Moses
  6. Scott1966...We have a number of discussions that cover the E4OD shift issues. Type E4OD in the Search Box. The latest exchange was shift issues similar to yours. Further investigation turned up a number of trouble codes related to the shift problem. If you have a code reader (inexpensive and readily available from Harbor Freight, AutoZone and others), begin by reading any stored codes. This is a place to start. We can go further. Moses
  7. Mario...The nylon straps hold the release bearing together during installation. Once the hydraulic release bearing is installed against the transmission, you unstrap the nylon straps. Here is a link to AutoZone's steps on installing a Jeep YJ hydraulic clutch release bearing: http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Jeep-Wrangler-YJ-1987-1995-Repair-Guide/CLUTCH/Hydraulic-Concentric-Bearing-Slave-Cylinder/_/P-0900c1528008ae3f This is the parts installation sequence. Follow the steps. Steps 8-13 cover the hydraulic bearing installation. Moses
  8. Mario...If the transfer case fits up to the AX15 transmission without the AX15's output shaft bottoming in the transfer case input gear, that is not the problem. Measure the stick-out length of the AX15 output shaft and compare this with the depth of the transfer case's input gear splines. It sounds like either: 1) the clutch release bearing is not moving the clutch cover fingers far enough or 2) the AX15 transmission input gear/pilot nose is sticking or binding in the crankshaft pilot bearing. If the release bearing is not moving far enough, check the clutch pedal rod clearance at the clutch master cylinder piston and bleed the hydraulic clutch release bearing. Make sure the pedal pushes enough fluid into the release bearing to move the cover fingers far enough. Moses
  9. Hi, Mario...We discussed this earlier, I suggested (July 29th above) that you try the 3.73 gears with the 31" tires. 4.10s may not be necessary. If you do want to go through the cost and labor of changing to 4.10 gears, any Dana/Spicer parts source or online outlets like Summit Racing, 4WD Hardware, 4-Wheel Parts, Quadratec, Amazon.com, etc., will have the 4.10 ring-and-pinion gear set kits. I would try the 3.73s with the AX15 first. It's not that easy to change front and rear ring-and-pinion gear sets, and cost is a factor as well. If the Jeep works well with stock gearing and 31" tires, you're good. Verify that you have 3.73 gears. Moses
  10. N. Salerno...Way to go! This is a very interesting approach that updates, powers up and improves the vehicle. You get the body you want on a thoroughly better chassis and powertrain! Thanks for sharing, others will find this helpful...The fabrication is not excessive but will take time and the right tools. Care must be taken on the frame shortening effort. If the end result is worth the work involved, go for it...Keep us posted on your plans and the project. Moses
  11. dado150...Share these trouble codes with the shop. They should have access to the code descriptions. If not, we can go through them. Let us know what's going on. Moses
  12. 88jy25...If the gauge/tester is accurate, these are each good test points, and the voltage is very high. Verify that this voltage meter works properly. I'm not clear why the damper sticks out. The long crankshaft snout is actually the V-belt engines. The serpentine belt engines, of which all later engines fall into that class, have a shorter crankshaft snout. When a stroker 4.2L V-belt crankshaft (longer snout) is installed in a serpentine belt 4.0L engine, there is a special washer available from HESCO Jeep to compensate for the stick-out space: http://www.hesco.us/products/7735/cylinder-heads/45565/crankshaft-damper-spacer-hesbs#.V-VnGfkrKUk. I'm curious why the pulley sticks out. This could be misalignment of the upper driven accessories, an odd mix of engine-driven accessories or a mismatched water pump type and pulleys. Worth confirming what's going on. Belt misalignment will lead to premature accessories and water pump wear. Moses
  13. love/hate4.0L...This is often an erroneous code throw. Is the engine actually misfiring? Years ago, an oscilloscope engine analyzer would clear this up, showing both ignition misfire or a lean burn/poor fuel combustion, but today, we rely on PCM thrown "reliable" trouble codes. This one is often misdiagnosed at the expense of unnecessary parts change-outs. There are simple testers for coil pac firing (surface induction test) and injector current pulsing. If you have access to these tools, you can see whether there is a true "misfire" (ignition or fuel injector) at #1 cylinder or any other. Try to see whether there is real cause for mechanical work or not. Here are two useful and quick probe testers: https://www.amazon.com/Waekon-76562-Quick-Variable-Sensitivity/dp/B0021UPE58/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0021UPE58&pd_rd_r=D27F1SN4HNCYE02FKCQK&pd_rd_w=9zhVU&pd_rd_wg=ftUpB&psc=1&refRID=D27F1SN4HNCYE02FKCQK https://www.amazon.com/Waekon-76462-Universal-Electronic-Injector/dp/B0021V0FRE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1474650045&sr=1-1&keywords=waekon+injector+tester Here are two threads/topics where we have covered on this issue: Read through these topics. If you're still not getting the results you want, let us know...I'll gladly continue the discussion. Moses
  14. You're welcome, AbbyJvalladares!
  15. 88yj25...If this is a true reading of system or actual battery voltage with the engine running at 2000 rpm, it is very high. (Symptomatically, the battery water drops steadily and bulbs would be burning out prematurely.) This kind of voltage would be damaging. Even in cold weather at start-up, alternator output at the battery should not exceed 15.3V for your Jeep. At normal ambient temperatures (50-100 F), the alternator should put out 13.9V-14.9V, even less as ambient (including under hood) temperature increases. Make sure this is the actual system voltage. A reading taken at the starter motor end of the battery positive cable would be useful. This is safely away from the battery for testing but provides an accurate battery state reading with the charge circuit operating.* *Warning: With the voltage as high as you're suggesting, the battery voltage could be producing and venting dangerous gases that could explode if a spark were present. Do not attach test probes or clips anywhere near the battery. Try this approach and see if the voltage is more in line. If not, there is a charge circuit/voltage regulator issue. If necessary, there are a number of in-chassis tests you can run on the alternator plus a number of off-the-engine bench tests. The pulley issue sounds like the difference between the V-belt pulley versus a serpentine belt pulley crankshaft. Which type drive belt(s) do you have on the engine? We can go from there...The camshaft should not be at issue, although spark base timing is important and must be set properly for your TBI 2.5L. There is a camshaft change in 1996 on the 2.5L/150 engine. We can look at that further if necessary. Moses