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Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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    Administrator
  • Birthday June 7

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  • Website URL
    http://www.4WDmechanix.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests
    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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  1. YZ250 Woods Weapon Build

    53HiHood...Thanks for your service to our environment and wild lands! Your photo says it all: America is beautiful and worth protecting its great outdoors and public lands...You captured this all in the photo... Moses
  2. Yes, new axle builds have a lot of initial heat...Motive is not over-reacting, they have to warrant these gear kits. Most don't realize that new axles require break-in, there is little discussion about new cars and trucks needing to break-in their axles. I never tow with a new axle build until the break-in/cycling is well over. I also like to change the lube at 500 miles or so. A less expensive synthetic oil can be used for the first fill. There is always some oil contamination from an axle break-in.
  3. We had a carbureted Bronco II 2.8L with five-speed manual and did okay with it...The 4x4 had the rare factory option of limited slips at the front and rear axles, which made traction dicey on off-camber muddy side slopes and icy off-camber highways. The vehicle had an affinity for spinning all four wheels and sliding to the low side of the road...
  4. I wonder how many troubleshooting nightmares have been created by bad or insufficient grounds?
  5. It's often easy to overlook the easiest or most obvious...We're supposed to start with basics and not borrow the big troubles!
  6. Costa...Best of luck with the bike, whether you sell it or not. These machines have a following, and Michigan is no exception. Folks will ship and travel distances to get an XR650R. I increased my search radius to 500 miles when I sought my bike, just got lucky when one popped up in our area...Let us know how this turns out. Moses
  7. Costa...Sorry to hear you had these troubles. Oil starvation will do this. Did the lower end starve or was this strictly the cylinder head? Your bike looks great and should be a candidate for a proper engine rebuild. If you do want to let the bike go, I'm certain you will find a buyer willing to do the engine work necessary. These XR650R models continue to hold cache and value. I would not "give it away", be forthright with the buyer but expect a reasonable return. Not sure where your market is located. In the U.S. Lower States, these cycles typically fetch $2500-$5000 depending upon history and overall condition. Rare, limited use cycles that have been in "storage" often bring $6000. I would think you could get $1500-$2000 in current condition if the rest of the bike is in top shape. I bought my bike for less than this but had no idea what the engine needed, and it did not run. I immediately rebuilt the top end of the engine, rebuilt the carburetor, mounted new tires and restored the air induction system. The bike had an alleged 1000 total miles of use since new. The aftermarket air intake filtration had not been sealing properly, which wiped out the intake valves and damaged the rings and Nikasil cylinder. The chassis was in excellent condition, which substantiated the mileage claim. If you have the "history" on this cycle and other selling points, I would certainly ask $1500 or more as a starting point. Moses
  8. Hmmm...Looking forward to your photos. The parts schematic shows pieces that a body shop or dealership warranty tech would be able to get in the day. Makes sense that many of these pieces are a part of the hardtop as you've discovered...
  9. zidodcigalah...This is a wise question to ask. Since the late 1960s, I have rebuilt all types of steering gears, including Saginaw manual and power units. I will gladly share my views. In addition to the tooth sector backlash between the ball nut (manual Saginaw) or power/rack piston (Saginaw rotary valve integral power gear), play in a Jeep/Saginaw steering gear can be caused by worn or damaged worm bearings, cross/pitman shaft bearings or the ball nut bearings. If the gear is slightly loose at 180,000 miles, there is a possibility that the play is backlash between the sector and power rack teeth. It could also be loose worm bearing preload, which can be roughly tested by trying to move the Jeep gear's stub shaft sideways and up-and-down to check for worm shaft play. Pitman/cross-shaft bearing wear can also be tested: move the pitman arm sideways and note any out-of-center or lateral movement of the pitman shaft. If there is wear at the worm bearings, the cross-shaft/sector shaft bearings or the recirculating balls and ball races of the ball nut or power rack, you should not attempt to adjust the gear. Adjusting out the play could jam up and bind the already worn bearings, races or hard parts. This is an unsafe practice that can result in gear bind and steering seizure while turning. When play is nothing more than normal wear between the rack piston teeth or ball nut teeth and the matching sector teeth, minor adjustment is possible. (This should not be done if there is worm bearing looseness, suspected wear at ball races, worn balls or worn cross-shaft/pitman bearing wear.) The only way to know whether there is bearing or hard parts wear is to disassemble and inspect the gear. However, if the worm shaft shows no radial/lateral (side) movement and the same is true at the sector/pitman shaft, and if the ball nut or rack piston moves freely without any roughness when the steering is rotated lock-to-lock with only a slight load on the gear (front wheels off the ground), you may have minor sector/tooth wear that can be adjusted. One test, if the bearings and hard parts (shafts, ball races, etc.) seem okay and do not feel loose, is to push the pitman arm straight up into the gear and pull it straight down. This will indicate play between the teeth. (Again, be sure the worm and ball nut or rack piston bearings are intact without play.) Sector play can be adjusted by using the factory method. Disconnect the tie-rod/draglink from the pitman arm before performing any adjustments. You would be setting the over-center, very slight load to restore the gear. For insight and details on the Saginaw power gear, I created a rebuild how-to video for the magazine. It is free to viewers. The video follows factory/OEM procedures for the common Saginaw 800-Series gears found in Jeep, G.M., Ford and I-H light trucks. Click here to access the article and video. Moses
  10. The fitting should work fine, Monty. Angle fittings are common on many engines. Often the sender needs to set on an angle. If the right size and pointed in the right direction, it should work well. Moses
  11. Hi, guru520...Photos would help, we can walk through the possible ways to restore the rivets if you can share pics of the actual damage and wear. Here is a factory top schematic and parts blowout that should help explain the relationship of the parts, we can discuss this further if you have questions: 1981-86 CJ-7 and Scrambler Headlining and Upper Trim Moulding.pdf Zoom into the document for image details. This is PDF and can be enlarged for more detail... Moses
  12. Mudbullet...I am so pleased that you've shared your learning curve and confident approach. Others will benefit greatly...The router for the sanding drums is such a time saver! Much more accurate as well, the drum is a true 90-degrees from the bearing cups and inner race collars. I like your flat 1/4" thick plate, too...easy to do the math. Nice! Excited to see how close your tooth contact pattern turns out after using Motion Gear's pinion head depth measurement. The 0.003" might be a consideration, you'll have to see. In any case, if Motion is accurate you have the actual gear lapping index. The proof will be in the tooth contact pattern on Drive and Coast sides. Don't forget to load the pinion shaft (the tourniquet rag on the pinion flange works) while making a tooth impression in the marking paint. Thanks for taking the time to share photos! Moses
  13. zidodcigalah...My bet for the video engine is piston slap or excessive piston skirt to wall clearance. A rod bearing would be constantly knocking, not intermittently. A rod knock would increase with engine rpm and become a rapid rattle as speed increases. The noise in the video is low enough to not be valvetrain noise transmitting through the engine. Did you try pulling the plug wires one at a time to eliminate the noise with the engine idling cold? As far as a wrist pin noise, the video did not sound like a wrist pin, and skirt slap is more common on these engines. If a single wrist pin were bad, without cylinder wall damage or out-of-round, the pin and piston could be replaced. This is an unlikely prospect. Wear is usually more uniform. The need for a wrist pin would likely call for a short block rebuild. If your noise has not increased much over time, and if the noise stops consistently when the engine warms, this would likely be excess piston-to-wall clearance or "slap". The engine could run a very long time like this, certainly long enough to plan a rebuild or 4.6L stroker build on your timeline. However, when an engine has a wrist pin rattle, there would be risk of piston failure or cylinder wall damage. The ticking does sound much like a lifter or rocker arm clearance issue. However, the noise disappears when the engine warms, more like a piston symptom than a lifter(s). Lifter noise does not go away unless there is a lifter bleed-down or lifter bore problem that goes away with parts expansion. Parts expansion is less likely with an iron engine block. An oil pump or distributor noise would be more constant and rhythmic. Pump or distributor noise would not "disappear" when the engine warms. Try separating issues...There are two possible upper valvetrain noises: 1) inadequate oil flow to the rocker arms and 2) noise caused by lifter bases that are wearing, which will increase the valve clearance. The rocker pivots, arms and rocker arm tips can starve for oil if the lifters are not flowing oil upward through the pushrods. On a Jeep inline six with its normally high oil pressure, this is unlikely. What is the oil pressure at an idle? To troubleshoot valvetrain noise without pulling the engine apart, try removing the valve cover and idle the engine cold to hear the noise better. You can avoid an oil spray by using valve rocker oil clips: https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Rocker-Arm-Oil-Deflector-Clips-on-Holder-16pc-P172921.aspx?gclid=Cj0KCQjwn6DMBRC0ARIsAHZtCeMDylgLmrXB0DcVKxUX8c0F1gaBA0dbIBVOOPeKt3OyzMgFUoEkkHUaAr3hEALw_wcB. To get the engine to idle with the valve cover removed, you may need to seal the crankcase hoses. This is a huge air leak that the IAC will try to offset. ONce the engine is idling, put gloved finger pressure on each rocker arm at the pushrod side and the valve stem side. Do this one rocker arm at a time while the engine is cold and noisy. See if an arm or arms stop clacking. This is a sure test of valvetrain and lifter oiling and also the valve clearances. You're checking for oil flow and valve clearance. The hydraulic lifters are preloaded and should show no tappet clearance while running. If there is lifter/rocker arm clearance, you have either 1) lifter bleed-down caused by worn lifters or 2) excessive lifter clearance resulting from worn camshaft lobes and/or worn lifter bases. If the noise still exists and is not the valvetrain, eliminate oil pump/distributor and crankshaft bearing possibilities. If you decide to drop the oil pan for closer inspection, you can run the pistons down in their bores and check the piston to wall clearance at the piston skirts. Inspect the visible portion of the piston skirts. You're looking for a piston(s) with loose fit and excessive wall clearance. You can replace just one piston if that's actually the case but only if the cylinder bore is round and within specification. If the bore is out-of-round or tapered, reboring and oversized pistons would be next, and this would involve all six of the cylinders. Note that core shift can cause the thin cylinders to warp or distort (no longer 90-degrees from the crankshaft) once the engine has been in service and heat cycled repeatedly. The block casting can distort excessively as it seasons. Core shift can reduce the thickness of the cylinder jacket(s), which poses a challenge when re-boring is necessary. Re-boring would realign the cylinder bores with the crankshaft's centerline, but reboring the cylinders would also make the cylinder walls even thinner. The concern would be wall thickness and strength of the cylinder walls. That's why I recommend sonic testing before and after reboring to make sure the cylinder jackets are strong enough to prevent distortion and resist local overheating. Moses
  14. zidodcigalah...Was the noise there before the hydrolock? My 1999 XJ Cherokee's 4.0L engine has had a subtle noise since we bought the Jeep at 94K miles. It sounds exactly as you describe. The sound could easily be mistaken for a valvetrain noise but goes away as the engine warms. A rod bearing or valvetrain noise will not go away. Hydraulic lifters bleeding down will likely continue after the engine warms up. A lean fuel mixture during warm-up phase can sometimes mimic a piston slap or pinging. Pulling the spark leads one at a time with the engine cold and idling, you should be able to pinpoint which cylinder makes noise. Removing the plug lead takes the combustion pressure off the piston and reduces the tendency for the piston to rock or "slap" at its skirt. (Slap is too much piston clearance causing noise as the piston rocks on its wrist pin and rattles against the cylinder wall) Without the combustion pressure and load, the piston is just going along for the ride and will quiet down. Note: If the wrist pin is loose, you get a double-knock metallic noise as you open the throttle. Wrist pin noise will likely not disappear when you remove the plug wire and combustion load. Wrist pin noise will usually occur by lightly cycling the throttle up and down. A rod bearing knock is at a steady fast idle or higher speed, a rapid metallic rapping. Pulling the spark lead will also reduce a rod knock noise, but if your engine has been driven in this condition for a some time, you would most likely have tossed a rod by now. Excess bearing clearance rapidly leads to engine failure. Minor piston slap can go on for some time. A noise also common to many 4.0L engines, allegedly most often in mid-'nineties blocks, is piston slap from cylinder core shift. With core shift, the cylinder jacket castings are not uniform thickness, and the walls can be thin on one side. The core shifted block casting should always be sonic tested for wall thickness—before and after boring. When boring, the increased bore size will further thin out a shifted cylinder casting. This can create a weak, unstable bore. Thin sections impact cooling and distort the bore, causing piston fit to deviate at different temperatures. This can cause noisy pistons, damaged skirts and even lead to piston seizure, When I rebuild my '99 4.0L, even though it is a "better" block, I will stick with 0.030" overbore and sonic test the cylinders after boring. Sonic testing and the right piston-to-wall clearance are especially important for a 4.6L stroker engine. If you follow through with the spark lead removal test (using a safe plug insulator pliers), trying one cylinder at a time with the engine cold and idling, let us know if this helps you pinpoint your knocking noise. Piston slap and wrist pin noise will be heard below the cylinder head deck at the side of the block. Separate oil pump noise from piston noise when listening at the middle cylinders. If you don't have a stethoscope or sound testing tool, a simple piece of copper or PVC tubing can act as a sound isolator and amplifier. Moses
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