Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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  • Birthday June 07

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  • Website URL http://www.4WDmechanix.com

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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  1. 60Bubba...This flywheel definitely needs resurfacing. The machine shop should be able to determine whether this 4.2L pre-1991 type has been resurfaced before. You can often tell whether the flywheel has been surfaced by noting the chamfer shape at the clutch cover threaded holes. If the flywheel surface has been machined, the chamfer will look shallow or possibly eliminated. In addition to hard spots and thickness at the face area, another reason for replacing your flywheel would be starter ring tooth damage. The ring can be replaced on the OE flywheel, talk to the machine shop about this option. Weigh this against the cost of a new flywheel. Also ask about flywheel balance when resurfacing the flywheel's face. You're making good progress. Good to remove the flywheel and do the rear main seals properly. Moses
  2. Ram to Dakota 3.7L V-6 Motor Swap

    In the meantime, Bwomack92, you can carefully compare the two engines and their peripheral parts and accessories. You can decide what needs to be kept or swapped with the engine change. Please keep us posted on the outcome! Moses
  3. 60Bubba...The LUK kit is cheap enough, though the weak link in these packages is usually the T/O bearing. Many replacement T/O bearings use plastic. I would go for a better quality T/O bearing with collar. Your front bearing retainer on the transmission shows damage, and the collar of the T/O bearing should be new to match the new retainer. I have no problem with the LUK clutch cover and disk, though I have always used Centerforce II clutches in my off-pavement and towing vehicles. If you do not carry heavy loads or rock crawl, a replacement clutch assembly like the LUK would be fine. The CJ mechanical clutch linkage has a notorious reputation for parts wear, binding and falling apart under severe off-road driving with frame/body twisting. Again, if your parts are in good condition and you drive sensibly, this linkage will work. Inspect the parts and replace worn pivots as needed. Moses
  4. COjeepGuy...The 30RH and 32RH share design features and even many parts. The main housing, however, is a different shape at the front; the 2.5L and 4.0L engines do not share common converter or bell housing bolt patterns. You cannot bolt a 32RH automatic transmission to the 2.5L engine. (Similarly, you can't bolt an AX5 manual transmission to a 4.0L six or an AX15 to a 2.5L four. In this situation, the AX15 manual transmission is actually a stronger unit than the AX5.) There is nothing intrinsically "weaker" about the 30RH than the 32RH, and for the 2.5L engine application, the 30RH works well and provides long service. Your current mileage is a testimonial. The only drawbacks to either of these automatic transmissions are the lack of overdrive and a tendency to dry-sump (starve for oil) on steep inclines. Moses
  5. 60Bubba...Here are my comments about your excellent photos of the T5 pieces. I'm guessing that there is a sheen on all contact parts, an indication of sufficient lubrication and normal heat exposure. Some of the photos look "dark", I'm guessing that's just lighting: Inspect the shift mechanism to make sure nothing binds or looks sloppy. You got off well on this unit, the primary damage is bearings, the rest is normal wear and typical renewal parts, nothing drastic. You have a much better "core" than many rebuilt/exchange transmissions. All of your gears match up, and that is not guaranteed with rebuilt units. The gear teeth should have no damage, your counter gear looks good, including its non-synchromesh reverse teeth...If you follow the FSM steps carefully, the rebuild should produce excellent results. The "tricky" assembly areas are the synchro keys and springs at the synchronizer assemblies. Pay close attention to the way springs and keys must fit, this is crucial to proper function. The most common trouble after a rebuilding job is at the synchronizer assemblies, usually the wrong positioning of the synchronizer keys, springs and hub sleeves. Synchro sleeves and hubs only fit one way. Make sure you use the FSM or Tremec diagrams to confirm the placement and orientation of pieces. Glad to comment as you move along. This should be a very reliable unit when completed. Your photos are helpful to others...Thanks! Moses
  6. 60Bubba and Reid...As for the World Class T5, Advance Adapters sold these as new upgrade units years ago. The supply ran out. For those unfamiliar, the T5 "World Class" was available in Ford Mustang H.O. packages during the '80s. This transmission held up far better and was torque rated for the H.O. 5.0L engine. The Jeep CJ T5 falls short, and you both have gotten "exceptional" service from your transmissions, a testimony to your driving skills and kindness to the transmission. For a stock 4.0L or the original 4.2L inline sixes, the T5 can hold up okay. A 4.6L stroker build would demand more, and for a stroker build, I'd likely do an NV4500 5-speed truck transmission swap as described in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86. Overdrive is valuable and helpful for fuel efficiency. An AX15 can be retrofitted but requires a lot of parts and effort, including "clocking" the Dana 300 transfer case to the AX15. Moses
  7. Hi, Ian...Glad you recognize the need to replace the gear housing. When you find a rebuildable core, your skills at rebuilding the gear will be in place. By now, you should be good at rebuilding the Saginaw Rotary Valve gears! I'm not optimistic about the lifespan of the reseal on this scarred and worn housing, the bore is damaged badly, and the piston surface looks rough. Let us know how this box holds up as you search for a rebuildable core...Be safe. Moses
  8. COjeepGuy...I would do a service, adjust the bands and change the fluid and filter. Yes, definitely check the throttle cable, you could have improper throttle pressure signals that would affect the shift points and also the kickdown. These are simpler, basic steps and worth taking before condemning other components. Let us know how this turns out, we can go from there. Moses
  9. Yes, 60Bubba...The "stuck in gear" syndrome was definitely related to the shaft misalignment/bearing issues. Synchros were cocked, not necessarily damaged yet, and parts were binding. There is also the issue of the front bearing retainer and the clutch release bearing being notchy on the damaged retainer. Poor clutch disengagement could have been a contributing factor, too. Lay the transmission parts out in order, photograph them, post photos, and we'll discuss the condition of each part. Reid's transmission, too. Moses
  10. Reid and 60Bubba...Happy to drop into the discussion when necessary. The FSM is a tremendous help. I can translate the esoteric details and help with diagnosis/inspection and other details. Play at the input gear nose is likely front bearing and input counterbore bearing related. Without support at the crankshaft pilot, this movement in itself is not conclusive of damage. If you will supply detailed photos and concerns, we can go from there...Consolation: The T-5 is easier and far less busy to build than an AX15! Moses
  11. Ian, I would find a rebuildable core of matching bore diameter and other features. The housing bore looks badly damaged. These wear grooves in the housing bore are where the piston's seal ring pressure is bleeding off and blowing the sector seals. If you attempt to use this gear housing, you will be unhappy with the rebuild when the leaks resume—quickly. The teflon rings will be severely damaged by these bore grooves as well. Find a used core that matches the piston bore, stub spline input teeth/size, pitman spline size and housing mounting bolt pattern. The 700 and 800 series gears are reasonably plentiful, you should be able to find a rebuildable unit. You now have the parts for resealing the core you find. Nothing lost here. Make sure you use the piston and sector that match, do not mix between two steering gears, as this upsets the tooth contact pattern. Likewise, use the better rotary valve and valve housing that match up and have a good fit. The piston on your current gear shows some significant scoring. Looks like you found the source for your leaking seals and why the sector repair alone did not cure the seal leak at the sector shaft/pitman end. Moses
  12. Stefan L...The 750 CFM would be way too much flow. The venturi bores are not desirable, and "jetting down" is not practical or likely to produce good results. 300 CFM would be plenty, 350-400 CFM would be more than enough even with the headers. Think in terms of approximately 1 CFM per cubic inch of engine displacement to spin the engine at 4,000 rpm. 350 CFM would provide 6000-plus rpm capability. Moses
  13. Hi, Raggedyman...First thought was lubrication or coolant, local overheat as suspected by the 2nd machine shop. Assuming that the piston-to-deck height is correct (the right pistons for the rods and deck height), I thought of a local overheat in the #1 cylinder. You do not talk about the engine's drive belt configuration. Do you have a water pump that is rotating in the wrong direction for its impeller design? Serpentine belt OE layout calls for a "reverse rotation" impeller on the water pump. V-belt drive calls for a traditional rotation impeller. #1 cylinder is the hottest running cylinder on an inline six (contrary to what you might imagine). The cylinder receives the hottest circulating coolant. If the water pump's impeller is incorrect, there may be sufficient cooling for the other cylinders and overall temperature control, yet there could be a local overheat at #1 cylinder. (An infrared block surface temp test when the engine is warm is helpful for measuring individual cylinder and head temperatures.) Block obstructions or the wrong head gasket/coolant port alignment can be another issue. 4.0L and 4.2L heads have different coolant passageways. Are you using a 4.0L head and head gasket on the 4.0L block? Also, piston-to-wall cylinder clearance must match the piston manufacturer's requirements, which you share that it does. Forged pistons call for more clearance than cast or hypereutectic pistons. Verify actual piston clearance at #1 cylinder. Keep in mind that pistons are cam ground, not concentric, but actually wider diameter at the piston pin bosses. Measure clearance 90-degrees from the pin bosses, this area/diameter expands with engine heat. Even if the cooling system works properly, #1 cylinder would naturally be more sensitive to piston expansion than the other cylinders, and you share that there were signs of skirt drag. You may have the wrong piston-to-wall clearance. Measure the piston diameter 90-degrees from the piston pin axis. Note: The rods must be hung correctly on the piston and installed in the correct block direction. On engines with a connecting rod oil squirt hole at the big end or through the shank to the piston pin, the crankshaft's rod bearing oil hole must align properly. The insert bearing's hole must match the oil hole in the rod; the rod and piston must each face the correct way in the block. The other concern is piston ring gap. Some ring sets, in particular chrome rings, require end gapping. This involves a ring file (hand operated design or power driven). Check the piston ring gaps in the bore before installing rings on the piston. The oil expander must be carefully installed so that its rails have a normal end gap. Ring gap specifications should be available from the piston and/or ring manufacturer. This is the place to start looking...We can go from here. Moses
  14. 60Bubba...The YouTube videos work very well...The output/mainshaft bearing is shot. That's the mainshaft's side play at the rear of the main case. Given the amount of wear, assume that the input gear's counterbore (back) bearing or rollers are worn, and the front case/input bearing should be replaced, too. Your concern at this point is wear at the mainshaft's nose and the input gear's counterbore (the mainshaft pilot bore). I also see distinct wear at the front bearing retainer, galling from the T/O bearing collar. Your 1st and 3rd photos: Is the spring roll pin sheared and allowing the shift fork to move and eat into the rail? Or is the fork sliding on the rail? Considering the serious bearing wear, the gears actually look okay in the photos. I would lay out all of the parts in their order of disassembly and inspect them for wear. For more comments, take close photos of the gears, shafts and synchronizer pieces. I would be glad to note the signs of wear and damage. We can go from there... Moses