Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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  • Birthday June 07

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  • Website URL http://www.4WDmechanix.com

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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  1. HI, oldie62, welcome to the forums! The 123 code is TP (FIPL) throttle position, an indication that the TP circuit is above maximum voltage. This is a voltage issue, either above or below, at the TP (FIPL). The trouble will show up during vehicle On-Board Diagnostics or during normal vehicle operation as in your truck's case. The Symptoms/Actions are: "Harsh engagements, firm shift feel, abnormal shift schedule, abnormal torque converter clutch operation or does not engage. May flash TCIL." Whether or not this is your downshift problem, you certainly have a clear need to set the TP voltage. I would try that before any further troubleshooting and see if the kickdown will restore. If not, we can go from there. The heater sounds like a distinct mix control issue (directing of air not occurring). Resolving the mix control trouble should fix it. If not, I can provide troubleshooting steps. Moses
  2. The weather has warmed, and we're not using the block heaters. (They provide approximately 140-degrees F coolant temperature at start-up.) When starting the Jeep XJ Cherokee's 4.0L engine on a relatively cold morning this week, I could hear a subtle misfire. This was during the warm-up/enrichment cycle, and by the time the engine came off the warm-up cycle (around 140-degrees F), the idle stabilized. At highway speeds, the engine seemed to run smoothly in terms of cylinder firing, though there had developed an unusual downshifting habit on grades and strong headwinds. Concerns came up about the TPS or oxygen sensor, maybe even a fuel supply issue. Miles earlier, however, the TPS had been replaced, and the O2 sensor as well. Giving this some thought, I pulled the air filter out. Holding it to sunlight, there was little light showing! The filter was neatly and uniformly clogged. This was the burbling at idle and sluggish on-highway at cruise trouble spot. So why didn't I replace the filter earlier? I change oil and the oil filter on cue, watching the oil color constantly. The air filter, however, gets dismissed when our mileage is mostly highway without dust conditions. In looking at the clogged filter, it was clear that winter "road film" was the culprit, and this can be just as impacting as dust and dirt particles. How did the engine continue to run in this state? Because the marvel of modern EFI has the O2 sensor compensating for air/fuel ratio constantly. Unlike a carbureted engine, which would show symptoms of an over-rich running condition much like running with the choke on, the A/F remains normal with EFI. At highway cruise, especially with an engine that chugs along at only 2,000-2,100 rpm most of the time, there is limited CFM (cubic feet per minute) air flow needed to maintain the A/F at that throttle setting. However, when load demands raise the throttle opening and drop the manifold vacuum at the same time, notably with the cruise control operating, the engine requires a transmission (AW4 in this case) downshift to maintain the A/F ratio constant. This creates the needed power at the expense of fuel efficiency. The dirty filter explained the downshifting on hills and subtle misfire at cold idle during the enrichment cycle. The moral: Check your air filter regardless of the season and whether or not you're driving off-pavement. Of course, when driving off pavement, one trip down a desert alkaline road can clog a brand new air filter. On highway, this does take longer, but with winter road debris and salted roads, the dirt accumulation is equally impacting. It just takes a bit longer to produce symptoms. A good rule-of-thumb for replacing the filter is the factory service interval. In our Jeep 4.0L engine's case, I'm targeting every 3rd or 4th oil change when driving strictly on-highway. For dusty off-pavement conditions, inspect the filter regularly and replace it as soon as necessary. Moses
  3. Ian...Your should be happy with the Edelmann parts...I'll keep members posted on the availability of the Vimeo On Demand tech how-to. Halfway through the video production process, will update! Moses
  4. Scoutt73...You're installing the '74 disc front brake/drum rear brake master cylinder, right? You need a disc/drummaster cylinder to assureenough bore size (piston displacement) and reservoir capacity for the retrofit disc front brakecalipers. Glad you're changing the proportioning/combinationvalve. The calibration for disc front brakes is different than drum brakes. Be sure that the pedal pushrod is adjusted properly for the '74 master cylinder's piston to retract fully with the pedal released. Bleed all four wheel brakes and make sure that each wheel brake applies pressure when you're done. It can be tricky getting the brakes to bleed without tripping the safety valve and blocking out thebrakes at one endor the other. Let us know how this turns out and whether you have the pedal and braking capacity you need. If the pedal pressure required for stopping is not to your liking, consider a booster... Moses
  5. Scoutt73...I'm a strong proponent of comparing equipment ona complete donor vehicle. For disc brake conversions,I am concerned about the master cylinder piston displacement, reservoir capacity and bore diameter. Did you use '74 Scout II parts for the conversion? I also want the proportioning/combination valve to match the disc front brake/drum rearsystem. I like your idea of using a '74 Scout II as your prototype for matching parts. The only additional concern is the size of the rear brakes (drum). If the same (shoe size and wheel cylinder bore size)between your '73 and the '74 disc brake/drum brake models, you should have it. Catalogs list the bore sizes for master cylinders and wheel cylinders, but as you suggest, you're also concerned about master cylinder reservoir sizeand fluid volume (piston/bore diameter)available with each push of the brake pedal. You need to use a disc/drum application master cylinder. I'd consider a booster at the same time and adjust the booster pushrod with care and by the book. Again, you need to compare all the parts on a '74 booster/disc front brake application, everything from the brake pedal through the booster, master cylinder,combination valve and tubing size. Moses
  6. Ian...If the housing, sector and power piston/nut are okay, an internal reseal should do it! I would also consider testing the power steering pump pressure to be safe. I'm going to do the Saginaw how-to rebuild video for Vimeo On Demand. There are huge numbers of these Saginawgears out there. (Rotary Valve Saginaw design was introduced in 1959 on higher end GM cars.) From the mid-'sixties onward, they have been common to Jeep, Ford, GM and I-H trucks and utility vehicles, a much larger cohort than just Jeep or CJ. Glad you're undertaking the project... Moses
  7. Jeep North...I like your diagnostics approachand thoroughness! It's easy to remove the vacuum motor shift mechanism from the front axle to inspect the shift fork. Inspect the two-piece axle shaft cogs to make sure the shaft and clutch hub are intact as well. A one-piece axle shaft (right side) would be one way to cure the problem if you find too much shaft damage. If you do the one-piece axle shaft, be sure that there's is a polished surface on the shaftfor the outboard (beyond the vacuum motor)axle shaft seal. On your axle, unlike the Dana 30 axles without a vacuum disconnect,the seal at the right side of the differential carrieris not present. Of course, it would be easier to restore your shaft disconnect if the damage is only at the vacuum motor or its actuator...You're on the right diagnostics track! Moses
  8. This is the exchange that followed Ian's sublet repair of the Saginaw sector shaft surface: Hi Moses i got the shaft back today it looks got to definately better than it did thats for sure wont get a chance to fit any thing back up till next week im off to a cold chisel (iconic aussie rock band not sure how well known thry are in the states) this weekend i took a pic but it fails when i try to load it ill try taking another pics & see if that loads cheers ian Wow, what a process!...Bronze should be hard enough to hold up against neoprene and not groove. (Brass would be much softer.) What was the cost? The finish machining looks precise. You get to keep the original gear mesh pattern this way...Curious to see the higher res photos...Thanks for sharing the pic! Moses ill let you know what it cost when the bill arrives i didnt ask for a price as i needed it done & theyve always been reasonable tried the higher res pics again no luck sorry cheers ian Hi Moses i got the bill today came in at $146 a bit more than id hoped but labour costs are high in aus & it had to be done ,finding another shaft in good nick would have been next to impossible being right hand drive & built in limited numbers cheers ian Ian...Not sure what the exchange value is in U.S.D. but the work looks very good, and there's machining as well as the bronze overlay process. Ah, the right hand drive issue would be trying. The left hand drive gear is basic and common, rotary valve Saginaw design has been a mainstay since 1959 in G.M. and other makes, a popular and reliable application. In your case, this bronzing is a good approach. Mixing used or new and used steering gearparts is risky. The renewed shaft will restore the wear pattern of the power rack and sector teeth. Set the gear up to specification (precise worm shaft bearing preload and correct over-center sector mesh adjustment), and you should be in good shape! During installation in the chassis, make sure the gear is on center with the front wheels pointed straight ahead! Moses Hi Moses well the steering box has gone again i havent pulled it out yet to see what happened but it got be confused i thought that repair would have lasted for years i might do some research to see if its the same box in a rhd fsj theyll be a bit easier to source i would imagine what a pain in the butt cheers ian Hi, Ian...Did the sector seal blow again? If so, this could be an internal seal leak or excessive pump pressure. A clogged pumpreturn can also raise pressures in the gear and blow a seal. Given the loads that these Jeep CJ10s saw, the pressures within the Saginaw power steering gear and aging seals would certainly be cause for internal seal leaks. If pressurized fluid is gettingpast the internal seals and reachngthe sector, this could explain the ruptured original sector. The sector shaft should be running true, and if the sector bearings are in a normal state, the sector shaft should not have excessive lateral/radial play. If there is too much lateral/radial run-out of the sector shaft, the sector shaft seal will fail prematurely. Did you replacethe teflon seal(s) within the gear during your sector work? This involves an inexpensive rebuild kit. FYI, I quickly found Edelman and Gates rebuild kits for a 1984 Jeep J10 FSJ truck, which should be similar to your Saginaw power steering gear. Check this out: http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1984/jeep/j10/steering/steering_gear_rebuild_kit.html Buying a used gear from another vehicle, especially an aged truck,is a gamble. Buying a rebuilt steering gear, from what I've seen in the U.S., can also be a gamble. The degree of restoration is often questionable, and you need a responsible shop with a knowledgeable,trained labor force to perform the work. This is a common steering gear design, so the risk of incompetent workmanship is less. If your current gear housing and hard parts are still intact, you have a rebuildable core, a basis for doing your own rebuild. If you need another gear for a core, that gear should also be rebuilt. "Good used" might apply for some parts but not for a 1980s era steering gear. I've glanced at Saginaw steering gear rebuild videos at YouTube(i.e., "free"). The information I've seen is eithervague or incomplete. Several videos looked like first-time rebuild attempts and left out key steps.Rebuilding a steering gear involves safety concerns, and setting up the gear properly can assurea long service life. I have the material to put a Vimeo On Demand streaming rental videotogether. Would such a detailed how-to video on rebuilding your Saginaw gear be of value? Would you pay a rental fee of, say,$4.99 (U.S.) for detailed step-by-step information? I would set the video up asa 30-day rental period, available for streamingas many times as needed within that 30-day period. I'm game if there's enough demand for this particulartechnical information and how-to. Moses
  9. Andrew...This sounds like a hydraulic pressure issue. When you're pulling a trailer there's a load and higher throttle pressure. Under light loads (higher manifold vacuum or lighter throttle positions), the problem goes away. This could be due to electrical or mechanical components involved with the transmission'shydraulic pressure. This problem persisted after a transmissionand torque converter change. While itcould be twotransmission assemblieswith related troubles,that coincidence is not likely. Several of thetransmission shift and line pressure functions are controlled electrically. The Power Control Module could be involved or electrical harnesses that connect the PCM and other devices like the EPC, TOT, TP, RPM and MLP. I would have a transmission diagnostic test performedby either a Ford dealership or an independent shop with a diagnostic scanner that can test these precise devices. This could save a lot of time and money in the long run. There's something systemically wrong, and the trouble spot has a role in the transmission's hydraulic line pressure. You want to rule out any of the chassis/electrical or electronic components, including the wiring harnesses and the speed sensor at the rear axle. There is low line pressure in the transmission. (This can be verified with a hydraulic gauge at the transmission's line pressure test port and others.) You want to find the cause of the low line pressure. Moses
  10. Andrew...Does this feel like Neutral or is the transmission slipping? If a neutral feel, the converter could be an issue or the intermittent loss of fluid flow and pressure. The pump inlet filter could be involved here. How many miles on this unit? Is the pan/oil filter fresh? Is the pan/filter O-ring sealing properly? These are the simpler items on the checklist. The oil pump inlet filter and seal are not readily accessible and typically addressed during a major transmission overhaul. Moses
  11. cnyncrvr...I would be concerned about the mainshaft (output shaft) nose end play at the input gear's counter bore bearing. If you recall this as radial play (essentially side play with the two shafts aligned), there's a big problem. When fitted properly, there should be virtually no perceptible radial, lateral orside play at the counter bore bearing. (End play is controlled by the two shafts being fixed in bearings with snap ring alignment.) The input gear's caged counter bore bearing is a roller type designed to work with nothing more than adequateoil clearance. A loose fit between the input gear counter bore bearing and either the input gear's counter bore or the output shaft's nose would cause gear whine and also the jumping out of fourth gear. This is the cocking action that I mentioned in my previous comments. The clutch hub of the 3rd/4thsynchronizer assemblycannot stay centered or in a gear notch. As a result, the synchronizer lockup in fourth gear cannot take place. The gear whine is from constant mesh gears that are moving apart from each other, which changes their contact patterns. Why the output shaft nose would wear to this degree is likely two-fold. Heat and ineffective lubricationwould be a factor. The main issue, though, is that theworn crankshaft pilot bearing allowed the input shaft to cock at its counter bore end, and the binding caged bearing chewed up the output shaft's nose. If the output shaft's nose wore evenly enough, you might not have noticed the wear;however, the loose shaft to caged bearing fit would be a clear clue, especially with a new caged bearing. These shafts are typically case hardened after machining, and if wear is severe/deep enough, the shaft nose could be worn to the softer, non-case hardened cross-section. This would cause very rapid wear from that point onward. Bummer that you'll be pulling the transmission down. These are close tolerance gearboxes, and the alignment of the input/output shaft is critical to gear/tooth alignment. You've described a trouble point that would readily cause whine and jumping out of gear. Of course, there could be a wrong bearing roller diameter that might present the correct O.D. for the input counter bore and the wrong I.D. for the mainshaft/output nose diameter. This would be unusual for any rebuild kit, I'd be targeting the mainshaft/output's nose diameter. Take a diameter measurement and compare with a new or good used output shaft's nose. It's a good sign that the bearing fits well in the new input gear's counter bore. Your memoriesfromthe buildhave helped here. The loose fit of the mainshaft/output's nose to its caged roller bearing will be an inspection target during your tear down. In the meantime, don't drive the Jeep, the misalignment of the gears will damage the tooth contact patterns and lead to very costly gear and counter gear parts replacement. Good you caught this trouble quickly. Please share your findings and the solution. Like you, I'm always looking at parts quality, parts that fit and "feel" right. A loose shifter bushing mechanism would have me either reusing the O.E. pieces (if in good condition)or seeking better parts. If the mainshaft/output is the culprit, you can use either a "good used" shaft (everything still measures on tolerance, including the built-in thrust and the bearing surfaces) or a new shaft. New would be pricey, obviously. Let's work through this and get that AX15 in shape! Moses
  12. Hi, cnyncrvr...If the transmission went together by the book and in the fashion described in the video, there are other possibilities. Parts wise, synchronizer design has come up as an issue, we've discussed that at length in the forum topics on rebuilding the AX15. Look over those comments, using a quick search at the YJ/TJ Wrangler forumunder keywords like "transmission" and "synchronizers". The laterAX15 uses a different 3rd/4th synchronizer brass ring style than the earlier design thatis often furnished with rebuild kits. You'll find that discussion... There are a number of transmission issues that can cause this kind of problem, though the five-mile trip without incident does create some confusion. There could be an issue of parts coming loose within the transmission, and my key focus here would be the mainshaft moving rearward under a variety of conditions, including but not limited to: a loose transmission case or intermediate plate, a loose or shifting output shaftbearing, loose snap rings, or a situation that allowsthe main/output shaft or gear setto creep rearward. 4th gear on the AX15 is direct drive, a lockupbetween the input shaft and mainshaft. A classic cause for a transmissionjumping out of gear is when the input gear's back (pilot) bore bearing has too much clearance. Visualize: Flexing at the point between the input gear's back end bore and the main shaft's nose. This can also be caused by a misalignment of the transfer case with the transmission. In this instance, the transmission's output (mainshaft) flexes enough to causethe front end of the mainshaft (at the pilot bore bearing in the input gear) to cock. The synchronizer ring(s) getcocked, too, which would allowthe transmission to jump out of fourth (direct) gear. Thistrouble is always pronounced forthe gear withdirect orthrough-power flow from the input. Another possibility is the input gear cocking from a worn or incorrectly sized crankshaft pilot bearing. Here, the input gear rocks because there is nosupport at the front of the input gear. The input shaft/gear, when working normally, aligns between the crankshaft pilot and the front case bearing on the input gear. Again, a misalignment of the transmission, or thebellhousing with the engine block, can create this issue. Binding of any kind, including a driveshaft that is too long, the wrong angle or out of phase, can cause gear bind and jumping out of gear. So, before condemning your transmission work, consider the fit of the transmission to the bellhousing, the bellhousing to the engine block, the transmission to the transfer case, the transfer case's inputgearangle,loose hardware at any of these points, an out-of-center crankshaft pilot bearing,or the wrong crankshaft pilot bearing size. Don't rule out the shifter mechanism itself, make certain parts are intact and feel "connected", with the shiftlever moving the shift rails without slop and through their full range of motion—with no floor carpet or console interference. Try to rule out the simpler and more accessible possibilities first. Loose hardware prospects would be a place to start andshifter lever throw. We can get into the transmission if/when you rule out these other possibilities. Moses
  13. Gary, one traditional view was that "gear bind" could occur in the transfer case if front and rear axle ratios matched exactly. This is not much of aconcernwith a chain drive transfer case, nor was it ever a real issue, in my experience, during the heyday of gear drive transfer cases. I run 4.56:1 at the front and rear of my Ram 3500. I run 4.10:1 in the high pinion 30 front and OEMChrysler 8.25" rear for the '99 XJ Cherokee, each axle in the XJ has an ARB Air Locker. The earliestWillys/Jeep Spicer4.88 and 5.38 ratios were fitted to models with gear drive transfer cases; worse yet, these were side drive designseven more prone to "gear bind". Ratios matched exactly at the front and rear, and the outsourced axle supplier was Spicer. The vehicle manufacturers havealways matched front and rear gear sets when ratio matches were available. However, when 4x4 vehicle manufacturers mixedoutsourced front axles with an in-house rear axle application, the ratios often did not match. As an example, Dana/Spicer might offer only a 4.10 front gear set, while the vehicle manufacturer had its own rear axle ratios, let's say the common 4.11 in the venerable Ford 9-inch axle. A Ford lighttruck could have aDana 4.10 front axle ratio and 9-inch Ford 4.11 rear axle ratio. Rather than trying to offset gear bind, manufacturers were more likely living withthe mismatch of axle ratios due to availability. The fact that a Dana/Spicer 4.10 will work with 4.11 is to the manufacturer's advantage if they want to use an available and less costly in-house 4.11 rear axle. 3.92 with 3.90 was a fit in the day. 3.55 and 3.56. Even 3.73 and 3.70. 4.86 with 4.88 could work, too. Dana/Spicer and others use specific ratios due to axle casting design and fit issues. They strive for uniform ratios in their products. Typical Spicer/Dana front axle ratios are your 3.07, 3.55, 3.73, 4.10, 4.27 and 4.56. These may be used by Jeep with a matching Dana/Spicer rear axle ratio or a very close match-up in the AMC axles. In recent decades, manufacturers have introduced more uniform and industry standardaxle ratios in products like your 8.8" Ford retrofit axle. The better way to view this is just how much variance between front and rear axle ratios is tolerable. I would believe that a ratio difference of 0.01 to 0.02, maybe 0.03, would be plenty. In your case, be pleased that 4.10 is available in the 8.8" to match your Dana 30's anticipated and available 4.10 ratio. It might be argued that aftermarket automaticlockers (Spicer/Dana Trac-Lok, Detroit, Tru-Trac, etc.) at thefront and rear createbind. They couldif the traction surface is not loose and there is enough tire/wheel rotational slip to engage the locker(s)!Front axles with OE limited slip were rare, we bought a new'85 Bronco II with an enticingTrac-Lok option at both the front and rear axles. (I can go into how well that worked if anyone is interested.) Ford used the sameaxle ratios at both ends of these 4x4 vehicles. Obviously, front and rear full manual lockers, which function like a spool (thinkARB Air Locker or Ox), should not be used on dry pavement or hard surfaces. 4x4 bind might be minutely offset by front and rear tires rolling at slightly different revs per mile. However, ratio combinationslike 3.07/3.08, 4.10/4.11,4.56/4.55or 4.88/4.86 might have lessimpact thantire diameterdifferencesdue to uneven tirewear or varied tire inflation pressures. Wear per tire or under-/over-inflation canchange tirediameters and revs per mile...Mismatched tire pressure could have just as much impact as these slight differences foundin 4x4axleratio combinations. We could do the math to make a comparison... Moses
  14. JK 6speed manual strengt

    Hi, JeepKing...This is a Mercedes-Benz NSG370 aluminum case unit that will handle a Pentastar V-6 or stock LS engine. 500-600 horsepower would have me searching for a much heavier duty unit than this one. Ratios are decent, what kind of use do you plan for the JK Jeep Wrangler? Others willing to share experiences with this transmission, used from 2005 up in Jeep vehicles? Moses
  15. BadDriver4x4...Ah, vintage iron! I did pause on the oil-less, waiting for the punchline; the $700 price raised my eyebrows, though I'm not clear about the value ofcollectible sprayers...Happy BelatedApril Fool's Day. As for setting up the compressor, mine is very simple. I have the compressor assemblymounted on 4" x 8" blocks at each end to isolate vibration to the floor. (Heavy, it doesn't dance around.) The cord is single phase 220V with a common welder-type plug to match my welding equipment. The wallreceptacle is amp rated. There is a designated breaker at the main panel. The receptaclehasits own additional fusing with a quick pull-out disconnect. You want an accessible disconnect box with either a pull-out shut off or On-Off switch. I used8-gauge wiring from the panel (short in my case, right through the wall) to the receptacle. Filtration is critical in a humid climate. I have a Craftsmanregulator/water separator at this point but would consider more moisture protection. See the T-P Tools equipment catalog online, they serve the DIY and small shop market. I use their air and blasting products and followtips found there. I would imagine that you can pressure test the suspect tank as you would any vessel (gas bottles, propane tanks, etc.). There should be a reasonable margin of safety beyond the anticipated pressure limit (150 psi cut-out on my setup). I run between a low of 125 psi and high of 150 psi at the tank, with a regulator pressure set between 90-110 psi, depending upon the kind of use at a given time. In addition to pressure checking the tank (a plumbing shop or propane gas supplier can do this task with a leakdown gauge and compressed air), you should make an attempt to clean out debris, scale and any loose rust. I would guess there is some kind of vacuum approach that would work here, ask around about scouring methods that are safe and not harmful to the metal. Welding repairs should conform to pressure vessel standards, using the correct filler material and cleanliness/prep work. Adding the extra tank should not be difficult. Consider this an extension of the main tank. Piping/tubing should be at least as large as the inlet to the Craftsman tank. Use air/pressure rated fittings, typically black (non-galvanized) type. Consider a pressure rated ball-type shut-off valve on the line between the two tanks to reduce compressor load when you do not need the auxiliary tank. Ask around local body shops for methods they use to add tanks, this is done regularly. Consider the amount of compressor operation needed to fill both tanks, this is a load on that vintage two-stage unit. Be sure the pulley/fan is blowing sufficient air over the compressor's air fins. You must use proper piping, clearly rated for compressed air. Do not use the wrong schedulePVC that can expand, contract and explode violently under pneumatic tool operation. If you elect to use PVC, make sure it's air compressor rated. Otherwise, black pipe works but be sure to use water drain valves at the bottom of pipe drops to your bench. My former shop had 3/4" black pipe running 8' above the floor from the compressor throughout the shop. There were 1/2" pipe drops to each bench topair coupler. With that setup, there mustbe air/moisture drain valves below each air coupler. I drained moisture regularly. Keep volume high and friction low (smooth bends)in the piping. I heartily recommend building or finding a belt guard if you have children around! These units start unexpectedly. Moses