Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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  • Birthday June 7

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    http://www.4WDmechanix.com

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    Male
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    Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests
    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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  1. jeepstroker...If you're using coil packs at each spark plug instead of a distributor cap and rotor to distribute spark, the distributor is just an output signal for camshaft position sensing as I shared earlier. The signal at the factory CPS on the AX15 bellhousing is #1 piston TDC for each revolution of the crankshaft. If your engine is out of the chassis and you have convenient access to the flywheel, send Haltech a photo of the flywheel. Otherwise, all that is important is that the CPS gets one signal pulse for each revolution of the flywheel and crankshaft. What does Haltech want for a TDC/crankshaft position signal? How is this described in the instructions for the Haltech 750 ECU? Please share that part of the 750's instructions. Moses
  2. Pete, you might try simply rebuilding the Ford F150 clutch master cylinder. Before doing so, confirm its bore size and compare that to the demands for the slave cylinder. If these two Raybestos parts (master and slave) are a match, and if the pedal leverage and rod travel are similar to a Ford F150 for piston movement, this should work. The only other factor is the release arm. If it is also a match for the Ford master and slave, you should have the right travel. Moses
  3. 4x4 Firefighter...Welcome to the forums! The sweet spot for maximum fuel efficiency is the 1600-1700 rpm range for a 2006 stock tune 5.9L Cummins engine. The 2000 rpm figure is my maximum torque point with an aftermarket software program. Your stock tune torque peak is at 1,600 rpm. As a rule, the peak torque point is the maximum fuel efficiency sweet spot. Even with my software tune, however, best fuel efficiency is still in the 1600-1900 rpm range. Our original axle gearing was 3.73. As you can see, I did the 4.56 gears, which suit our trailer towing. We have an 8400# (loaded) travel trailer and plan to use it regularly. When trailering (or at any other time), if I hold the speed to 62-65 mph, I can squeeze reasonably good fuel efficiency from this hefty package. Driving past 65 mph, there is a linear, rapid decline in fuel efficiency. Were I to do the gearing all over again for my 34.6" diameter tires, I would likely go with 4.30 rather than 4.56 gears. (4.30 was not available at the time I performed the change-out.) If we rarely towed, 4.10 might be a consideration, as this would be an exact correction from the stock diameter tires with 3.73 gearing to 34.6" tires. Cummins recommendations for commercial use (up to 50K GVW) of the ISB sixes is 2,100 to 2,400 rpm for "maximum economy". This accounts for the typical commercial/medium duty truck with a van box or other "billboard" size wind resistance factors plus much heavier loads than a Ram light truck (to 1-ton) might experience. I can assure everyone that operating our lighter trucks at a sustained 2100-2400 rpm will burn considerable fuel. In my case, with the 4.56 gears and 34.6" tires, the loss of fuel efficiency is not a reflection of extreme loads but rather the fuel needed to propel the truck at 70-plus mph. A friend and former Chrysler VP of engineering has suggested that I stick to my original plan, keep the 4.56 gears, and hold the truck to 65 mph if I'm interested in maximum fuel efficiency. His emphasis is that pushing this kind of poor aerodynamic mass down the road at high speeds is a recipe for burning fuel. In my view, plans for an even taller truck (i.e., approaching billboard wind resistance with a camper), running 37" tires, would call for at least the 4.30 gears for camper use at the speeds you describe. There are weak links in these powertrains, in particular the 48RE automatic. I'm on the original 48RE factory transmission at 150K miles*, and it's still working very well. This in part is because I've relieved the transmission loads with the 4.56 gearing. Stock 3.73 gears with 37" tires would take out the transmission quickly. 4.10s with 37" tires will not restore the original gearing. 4.30s with 37" tires would come very close, offering the closest equivalent to stock tire diameter (31.9") and the stock 3.73 gears. 4.56 would even be acceptable, though if you only plan to tote the camper occasionally, you would have better fuel efficiency running empty with the 4.30s. *Note: I made valve body changes as per Sonnax recommendations, you can see at the magazine site: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Survival-Upgrades-for-Jeep-and-Dodge-Ram-Automatic-Transmissions?r=1. This has helped extend the original 48RE transmission's life. In my experience, the larger 37" tire diameter and a raised truck will impact wind resistance dramatically. You will likely never see 28 mpg again, even with 4.30 gearing. 24-25 mpg will also be daunting. My best totally stock fuel efficiency with our truck was 25 mpg at a sustained 1600-1750 rpm over a 500 mile test. I subsequently chassis-lifted the truck 4", added 1100# of combined accessories, auxiliary fuel and oversized 35" tires and rims with 4.56 gears, installed a bold (i.e., no longer aerodynamic) front winch bumper and 18K Superwinch, and I have never achieved 25 mpg since! At 65 mph on level ground, I can generally expect 21-22 mpg running empty without the trailer these days. Moses
  4. Pete...Sounds like very little slave movement. Either the master cylinder or slave cylinder is leaking/bypassing past its piston seal, or you need a clutch master cylinder with a larger piston bore/diameter to displace more fluid with the current amount of pedal travel. That would move the slave piston and release rod further with the current amount of pedal movement. Moses
  5. jeepstroker...You may be able to use the factory CPS if you are still using a factory flywheel (AX15 manual transmission) or flexplate (AW4 automatic). My concern was whether the Haltech 750 ECU will operate with the signal from the factory CPS. If available, the factory CPS would be the simplest solution for a signal. Any CPS will have a signal pulse. You need to confirm from Haltech if the factory signal from the factory CPS and flywheel/flexplate is acceptable. (Maybe the instructions with the Haltech 750 will offer this information.) The signal from a factory CPS or a HESCO CPS kit will be exactly the same. Of course it would be far less expensive to use the existing factory CPS if available. Confirm that this signal pulse will work with the Haltech 750 ECU. Moses
  6. A bit dated now! If you'd like to see any of the SEMA Show coverage, go to the magazine site (www.4WDmechanix.com) and use the search box for SEMA Show. I cover the show each year in HD video, and there are many articles and videos from the years past... Moses
  7. RobertRock...Welcome to the forums! There is a straightforward way to look at engine cooling: Each horsepower produces approximately 45 BTUs of heat. When you demand horsepower from your Powerstroke diesel engine, it responds but making more heat. For a diesel engine, many install a pyrometer gauge to keep track of heat loads. To cool your engine properly requires an adequate radiator, water pump, fan, fan clutch and shroud that will handle the BTU load. Also, the engine and radiator must be free of debris and able to circulate the coolant well. If you have not cleaned or flushed the original radiator, that would be a place to start. The fan clutch may be worn and reducing the fan's efficiency. Check that as well. A radiator shop can clean and "rod out" the radiator plus check the radiator for flow rate. The heater core should be reverse flushed while you have the radiator out. Install a fresh thermostat of proper degree rating. You can always upgrade the cooling system if necessary: a larger flow and higher volume radiator, a performance fan clutch, a better or auxiliary transmission cooler (automatic transmission models) and other approaches. The transmission cooler is an area worth focusing if everything else works properly. A pyrometer gauge would help with driving technique to keep a lid on the horsepower and heat demands... Moses
  8. f250diesel...I would do an electronic module check for transmission related fault codes...This is a case where the shift pattern is affected but not necessarily the hard parts yet. Diagnostics at this level may point to a defective component in the electronic shifting circuits. Certainly worth the test. Paying for a diagnostic test is much less costly than the $4K transmission approach. At 176K with a 7.3L Powerstroke V-8, there may be a need for rebuilding, but try the diagnostics first, if that turns up a defective component, replace it, then see how the unit performs. Moses
  9. jeepstroker...If the Haltech 750 requires a common crankshaft position sensor and you're using your 1996 Jeep XJ 4.0L bellhousing or converter housing, there is the factory CPS (crankshaft position sensor) that works with the factory type flywheel. If you do not have that kind of bellhousing or converter housing, one approach would be a bolt-on pickup that comes with the Mopar EFI conversion kit for 4.2L Jeep engines. This requires a new crankshaft damper/pulley that is also part of the kit. HESCO markets the Mopar EFI Conversion Kit and also packages and sells individual parts. Here is the catalog listing for EFI conversion parts that include the damper/pulley and crankshaft pickup kit: http://www.hesco.us/products/7902/40l-conversion-parts. The 4.2L damper and pickup "kit" is available for either V-belt or serpentine belt design. This damper/pulley and bolt-on sensor are priced at $329. You need to determine whether the 4.0L OEM sensor or this aftermarket HESCO crank sensor will provide the right signal for an aftermarket Haltech 750 ECU. Read the instructions to determine whether a Jeep 4.0L crankshaft signal is right. Contact Haltech if you need to confirm. As for a camshaft position sensor, this is part of the original 4.0L MPI/EFI ignition distributor. If you remove the distributor and change to coil packs, the original camshaft position sensor is lost. A solution is the late (2000-up) Jeep 4.0L camshaft position sensor and oil pump drive assembly. This replaces the pre-2000 ignition distributor and provides both the drive mechanism for the oil pump and a camshaft position sensor. Moses
  10. Hi, Gene...A new Texas member has acquired a '74 Scout II with a property deal and wants to sell it.  I suggested he make contact through the forum messaging.  You may get his message, let me know about the Scout II!

    Best,

    Moses

  11. You've come to the right place, CCRB. One of our members is a Texas neighbor and Scout II buff. Contact our member through the content search in the "Member" category. You'll find a "Message" button to compose and send your message. Look up: TejasCJ7 Trust this helps...The Scout II is a great 4x4 platform. Moses
  12. Go for staying married...I still rubberneck at a clean FJ40 'Cruiser or a mint CJ-8 Scrambler...I get over it, though, and we'll celebrate our 40th anniversary in November... Moses
  13. mtrayno1...I posted a vacuum diagram for the '87-'90 YJ Wrangler 2.5L four-cylinder engines at an earlier post. This should help clarify your vacuum circuit: Let us know if the PDF diagram helps answer your vacuum concern. Your circuit is incomplete with the plugged hose. Here to assist if you need more input. Moses
  14. For finding TDC on the compression stroke without the starter functioning, a time-honored approach is a whistle that fits into the spark plug hole for #1 piston. Spark plugs removed to ease crankshaft rotation, this device allows rotating the crankshaft by hand in the normal direction of rotation while listening for the whistle as the piston rises on the compression stroke. Note: If you have brazing or soldering equipment, you can make this tool using an old spark plug shell with the porcelain, electrode and ground strap removed. Braze or solder a metal whistle to the metal plug shell. Remove any burrs or debris from the "tool", then thread it into the spark plug hole for #1 plug in this case. For a pre-made type, here's a popular and inexpensive example that uses a rubber stopper instead of a threaded base. You'll get the idea: https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Products-7894-Flexible-Compression/dp/B000TQ16HG. An alternative is to use a compression gauge installed in #1 cylinder spark plug hole. Plugs removed, rotate the crankshaft and watch for the bump in compression as the piston rises on the #1 compression stroke. Simultaneously watch the crankshaft damper timing mark to make sure you're rising to #1 TDC. Once the piston is at TDC (look down the #1 spark plug opening and confirm that the piston is at its peak with the TDC mark aligned on the crank pulley/damper), you can decide where you want to place the #1 spark plug wire in the cap rotation. Allow enough room for the distributor's vacuum canister to rotate back and forth without interference when you set the spark timing. Lift the distributor away from the camshaft drive to align the distributor shaft and rotor with a selected distributor cap position for the #1 spark lead. Then you can hook up the remaining spark leads in clockwise rotation, following the firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4. There is a preferred position for #1 wire in the cap, traditionally around the 5:30 to 6-o'clock position on a CJ Jeep inline six. Without EFI and using a conventional HEI/DUI distributor like you're doing, you can select whatever cap position you want for #1 wire lead. Just make sure the rotor points to that position at TDC for #1 piston on the compression stroke. Allow enough room for distributor movement to fine tune the spark timing. Install spark leads following the 1-5-3-6-2-4 Jeep inline six firing order. Moses
  15. Thanks for the continuing feedback on your brake upgrade/modification! Other CJ owners will find this useful. Is this "flexing" at the firewall or possibly a case of brake pedal pulsation? Out-of-round rear brake drums or front rotors with too much runout can cause brake pedal pulsating or pedal pumping under hard braking effort. Too much hub wobble (front wheel bearings loose or a loose rear axle nut) can also create pedal pulsation. Something to consider... Moses