Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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  • Birthday June 07

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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Moses Ludel's Activity

  1. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question Jeep 4.0L Two-Rail or Single Rail EFI?   

    Here's some fodder, Case...The distinction for OBD-1 is the pressure regulator at the fuel rail.  (Don't confuse a '97-up fuel damper for a pressure regulator, they have a similar appearance.)  The later Mopar EFI Conversion Kit still uses the 60-pin PCM, so that's not a deal breaker.  However, the fuel pressure regulator is at or near the fuel tank.  (The stock '97-up pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump module at the fuel tank and can be seen atop the tank.)  
    Note: Whether in-tank or in-line, the OBD-II (later) systems or a later Mopar EFI kit still uses the in-tank style regulator.  Mopar kits use a modified, externally mounted version of this regulator, while a stock Jeep XJ, TJ, ZJ or WJ application has its regulator as part of the fuel pump module at the tank.
    The fuel rail looks like a later (OBD-II) application.  Below are photos of a two-rail system used from 1991-95.  Note the two fuel pipes/lines, one is a pressure line, the other a tank return line.  It's highly likely that you have a later EFI system.  The wiring could be either a Mopar EFI Conversion Kit harness or an XJ Cherokee wiring harness that may have come from a donor engine.  Your plug in hand looks like an OBD-I diagnostic plug, similar to a stock pre-OBD-II harness---or it could be a Mopar EFI Conversion Kit harness!  Of course, this could be a mix of parts, so let's break it down:
    1)  What type and location is the pressure regulator?  If OBD-II, it's either atop the fuel tank or looks like a '97 up tank regulator that has been modified for a remote mount.
    2)  Do you have an actual return fuel line to the tank?  This will be clear with two fuel lines at the fuel rail, a pressure line and a return line.
    3)  Since you can run the late system from a 60-way/pin PCM (the later Mopar EFI Conversion Kit does so), this is not a distinct clue.  The Mopar EFI Conversion Kit harness, however, has a simpler 4-wire interface with the Jeep chassis wiring.  If your system has a harness with splices that look like way more than a simple 4-wire hookup, the wiring harness is from a donor 4.0L vehicle.
    This is a two-rail EFI system fuel rail, used from 1991-1995.  Photos courtesy of a Google search.
    You could easily have a mixture of Mopar EFI stuff from the 4.2L conversion to EFI.  The wiring harness and fuel pressure regulator would be telling.  (When we discussed this some time ago, I thought you had a mix of pieces.)  Some of this is academic.  The crucial concerns would be running the right fuel pressure for the injector type, the sensor feedback devices, and the overall performance of the engine.  
    If you are lacking feedback signals, like the coolant temp sensor signal for the engine warm-up cycle or MAP, fuel efficiency will suffer profoundly.  If the tailpipe emissions are way too high, that would be telling as well.  Measuring fuel pressure at the rail test port should indicate which regulator is in place and whether the system is working properly.  (Later single rail EFI operates at a higher fuel pressure than the two-rail systems.)  
    Without a regulator, the fuel pressure would be as high as the fuel pump pressure!  The two-pipe/rail system requires a return line to the tank and a regulator at the EFI fuel rail.  (The regulator has a conspicuous vacuum hose nipple; a single rail damper does not.)  The tank-type regulator (later single rail EFI) controls fuel pressure at the rear chassis; this same regulator, when modified for external use (like the later Mopar EFI Conversion Kit's modified regulator), still requires a return fuel hose from the remote regulator back into the fuel tank.  Both systems have returns, the two-rail return is from the engine's fuel rail, the single rail return is from the later type regulator (mounted atop the fuel tank in the stock configuration).  
    Note: Any type of EFI or TBI system requires fuel pressure regulation.  Without a regulator, the fuel pump's higher pressure (by design) would feed to the injectors and over-fuel the engine.  If you can measure the pump's direct output pressure and the fuel rail pressure, I can suggest which fuel pump and regulator are currently in place.
    Google search turns up these two single-rail images.  Left photo shows single pipe inlet and a damper mounted mid-rail.  At right is single rail without damper.
    As long as all sensors are in place, the PCM is operational and the excess fuel can return to the tank through a preset pressure regulator, you have a functional EFI system.
  2. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question Freedom Cycle and Yuill Brothers Transform a Triumph Tiger 800!   

    Speed...Triumph has incredible marketing pressure.  U.S. buyers are often nostalgic, and this drives what you discovered.  Emission demands make traditional/vintage tuning impossible, EFI is a norm now, and quieter exhaust systems are mandated.
    At the dealership, I rubbernecked on a new "Thruxton Special" in red.  The bike triggered late-'sixties/early-'seventies memories of Triumph, BSA and Norton cafe racers.  I owned three BSAs in the 'seventies, each was, coincidentally, a drum brake '69 model in single, twin and triple cylinder configuration (Victor 441, Lightening A65L and Rocket 3 A75R).  I still am stuck on those original Brit bikes, though they each begged improvements.  (The Victor was allegedly a "scrambler" that had barely any front fork travel and vertical rear shock/springs, pitiful next to my Honda XRs with Prolink rear suspension!)  
    Motorcycles are interesting---the best bike, in my view, is the one beneath your seat!  I could ride any year H-D, Brit bike, German bike or Japanese bike and have a good time...I would state flatly, however, that some of the worst cycles I have ever ridden were vintage Japanese bikes, models like the Suzuki X6 Hustler or the Kawasaki H1 and H2 two-stroke triples.
  3. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question Chevy Tracker   

    BadDriver4x4...I'd repair the frame and bracket...At $500, this is well worth the effort.  I'm a weldor.  When reading your account, I was grabbing for my plasma cutter, fresh metal and either TIG or MIG machines.
    The bracket for the shock could be cut wide from an intact recycled donor vehicle and carefully welded in place of the missing bracket.  This could be done precisely, whether you do it or a body shop, and the end result would be very satisfactory if that is the extent of the damage.
    I'm a strong proponent of recycling and rejuvenating or restoring vehicles.  Relatively intact vehicles should be rebuilt and not discarded.  There's enough of that consumerism around!  If the frame were crumpled and out of alignment, I might be more hesitant, but isolated Vermont salt damage should be repairable.  Check closely, though, for frame rust from within; that kind of rust is dangerous and insidious.
  4. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question Carburetor Damage Caused by Ethanol and Winterized Gasoline   

    Speed...I like the adjustable main jet on the S&S...Reminds me of my first "moto" at age 14 (Nevada scooter license era), a 1955 Allstate/Cushman with a Husky engine and vintage Tillotson carburetor.  It had an adjustable main jet, lots of fun to dial, made the rider more in step with the engine's mixture process.  This was helpful training for a later career that involved a lot of carburetor adjusting and jetting...
    Good luck on the BroncWorth carburetor.  The early small-block Ford engines were Autolite or Holley carburetors.  Can confirm model years for the Autolite if you need that info...Autolite evolved into the Motorcraft era, essentially the same design.
  5. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question Freedom Cycle and Yuill Brothers Transform a Triumph Tiger 800!   

    Speed...The Triumph Tiger 800 would be that motorcycle...Modern upgrades like EFI and such could assure fuel efficiency.  This bike would not cause on-highway suffering unless the tires are too off-road oriented.  The ride quality should be very good.  I'll take one for a demo spin at some point and comment.
  6. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question Liberty Error Code from diagnostic tool   

    BadDriver4x4...The P0175 does suggest a possible enrichment situation.  This can be fuel related, an injector issue, the need for routine service (air filter, etc.), a cold start/warmup cycle issue, a TPS issue, or a catalytic converter that is not cleaning up.  The catalytic converter is responsible for dropping emissions levels.  The upstream #1 sensor helps control the A/F ratios.  The cat takes emissions excesses and cleans/burns them up.  The #2 sensor readings, downstream of the cat, reflect how effectively the cat is working.
    Since the upstream sensor is apparently working right (no codes), your A/F ratios should be correct.  You do not have an injector or TPS code.  The code thrown points to the catalytic converter.  
    A dealer selling a vehicle is usually responsible for the emissions levels being correct; this vehicle will not pass a smog test if the thrown code is accurate.  There would be a resulting enriched tailpipe reading.  Again, enriched emissions do not necessarily mean a rich fuel mixture but could indicate that the catalytic converter is not cleaning up the emissions thoroughly enough.
  7. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question Carburetor Damage Caused by Ethanol and Winterized Gasoline   

    Speed...I'm a strong advocate of factory engineering despite the inevitable foibles.  The motorcycle carburetor issues at northern Nevada include altitude compensation, and I'm not clear whether S&S has matter of fact jetting recommendations for these altitudes.  
    It's enough to jet and maintain a stock carburetor.  Aftermarket carburetor targets and benchmarks often include expected camshaft changes and exhaust mods.  If your H-D is stock, I'd take a "restorative" approach with the original carburetor, save your money, and not get creative.  It's enough to juggle BroncWorth's carburetor issues!
  8. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question How to Flat Tow a Jeep TJ Wrangler Rubicon   

    JoeMac51...You do not want to tow with the transmission in neutral.  The transmission output/mainshaft would rotate but there would be no rotation of the counter (cluster) gear for oiling.  You will burn up the NV3550’s clutch/input gear’s counter bore bearing, the rear mainshaft/output bearing, and more.  The correct flat tow procedure for a chain drive transfer case is transfer case in neutral and the transmission in a gear (1st, 2nd, a gear that will keep the transmission parts from moving).
    These manual transmissions oil by the counter/cluster gear slinging oil upward to lube the bearings and mainshaft gears.  The counter gear rotates from the input (clutch) gear.  With the engine stopped and clutch engaged, the input gear does not rotate.  The counter/cluster gear does not turn.  There is no oil slinging/lubrication to the upper bearings (including the clutch/input gear’s pilot/mainshaft nose), no lube to the transmission’s gears, and no lube to the output/mainshaft’s rear bearing. 
    The chain drive transfer case, on the other hand, has a pump that will still lubricate while towing.  The transfer case should be placed in neutral.  The transfer case output will rotate the chain as the vehicle moves, and the internal pump will work.  This provides reasonable lube to the transfer case parts.  However, the longstanding caution is to not overheat the transfer case by towing too fast or long in this manner.  Old timers always stop periodically to check the transfer case for heat when towing.  The use of a modern infrared surface temp testing tool (Harbor Freight version will do for this) will keep you at a distance from the heat. 
    In my view, a car hauling trailer remains the best and safest way to tow a Jeep.  There are no concerns about damage, and if anything breaks on a trail, you can trailer home.  I do not flat tow:  Aside from the issues we're discussing here, flat towing can place extreme loads on the steering mechanism…If you do not limit the steer wheel movement when flat towing (never lock the steering column, leave the key in unlocked mode!), the steering can jack to opposite extremes and drag the front tires sideways down the road. 
    For these and other reasons, like the car hauling trailer having brakes versus no brakes on most flat towed vehicles, I use a car hauling trailer.  (There have been vehicle-to-vehicle brake systems available in the aftermarket; however, they are involved and mostly ignored.)  Chain drive transfer case era Jeep models flat towed behind motorhomes are notorious for transmission and steering system damage.  A used Jeep 4x4 that was "seldom driven", just flat towed, is not necessarily a bargain.  Check the transmission for bearing and gear cooking.
    As a footnote, the automatic transmission models are not exempt from flat towing damage.  Without the engine running, the automatic transmission has no front pump or torque converter activity, and the entire transmission, and especially the output shaft bearing, is susceptible to damage from lack of lubrication if the automatic transmission is left in neutral while flat towing.  For these chain drive transfer case models, the transfer case must be placed in neutral with the automatic transmission in Park to prevent transmission parts from rotating while flat towing.
  9. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic Ford F250: Changing the 460 Gas Engine to a 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel   

    Welcome to the forums, jt2016!  The swap is possible, though I would ask whether this truck requires emissions inspections.  If so, the swap would require an engine the same year or newer than the chassis and the use of any/all emission related chassis or engine parts considered part of the 1996 7.3L Powerstroke package.
    If I were doing this swap, including the engine and a manual transmission, I would seek an intact donor vehicle for the prototype.  You want to compare any and all components that make up the difference between the engine and transmission packages.  This could be considerable work, and you need to verify items like the fuel pump, fuel lines, mounts, the exhaust system, any cooling system/radiator needs, essentially a side-by-side comparison of parts.
    With the manual transmission conversion, there's the steering column if you want to get rid of the column shifter, the pedal mechanism for the clutch/brake, any wiring differences between the 7.3L diesel and the 460 gasoline engine (EFI) and so forth.  The main concern would be sensors and wiring harness differences underhood, plus the ECU and the fuel pump. 
    I've considered a manual transmission swap with our 2005 Dodge Ram.  In hindsight, I'd have preferred a 6-speed manual transmission over the 48RE automatic.  However, the task of changing out the transmission, flywheel and clutch parts, accounting for all of the chassis, steering column and other differences, would likely have me weighing the sale of our truck and purchase of a manual transmission model in identical or similar condition...In real terms, your proposed project contains many of these challenges.
    Happy to provide illustrations of parts if a specific question comes up.  The diesel engine chassis is simpler than the gasoline models as a whole.  The kicker might be your desire to change the transmission, although I applaud that notion.  As a footnote, you need to consider the spring rates for the front springs of a 460 versus 7.3L model.  As heavy as the big-block gas engine is, the 7.3L Powerstroke could be heavier!
  10. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question Residual Valve Options   

    60Bubba...Glad to comment...Brake safety for your family is paramount, you do great work and will continue to do so, Case!  Will be good to have a backup master cylinder and choice of piston bore size.  
    These double bail iron master cylinders are a classic design, G.M. at its finest hour.  Our '70s and '80s G.M. trucks still bring a smile in the family album.  Favorites were the 1973 K10 4x4 SWB with SM465 4-speed transmission and NP205 transfer case plus the 1986 (carbureted 350) and 1987 (TBI 350) Suburban K2500 3/4-ton 4x4s with THM400s.  You've got a piece of that golden era in front of your brake booster.  
    Thanksgiving for your family this week!  Must be real fall colors in your neighborhood...
  11. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question Carburetor Damage Caused by Ethanol and Winterized Gasoline   

    Speed...Tap lightly, don't "smack", carburetor float bowls and bodies are expensive and can ding...You're simple trying to dislodge a stuck needle in its seat.  Typically a Viton tip needle...If everything else is okay, the float should be hanging down in the bowl with a gap between its tang and the needle.  A light "tap, tap, tap" should encourage the needle to unstick.
    You should see some very cold weather this week at Elko, so ride with lots of leather if you test the H-D, the chill factor will be overwhelming.  Enjoy a snowy Thanksgiving according to the weather reports.  BroncWorth needs to behave, winter is near!
  12. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question Here we go again! Another Jeep in the future?   

    BadDriver4x4...Great price!  Parts worth more than the asking price...What I like, again, is the "stock" appearance despite the higher mileage.  I noticed our '99 XJ now has 157K miles on the odometer.  The 4.0L inline six engine still does not use oil, the AW4 transmission shifts fine, I went through the axles with a gearing change 62K miles ago, brakes are new, and the Jeep just wants to keep going!
    You're in the salted winter road zone, our Nevada high desert vehicle is rust-free.  That does make a difference.  If you don't feel challenged by the rocker panel and floorboard issues, this could be the one!  Do make sure the chassis' heavy sheet metal "frame" is still intact, that would be a structural issue beyond just cosmetics.  Uni-body vehicles need to have a solid and intact pan/chassis...Inspect closely like I'm sure you do!
  13. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question Residual Valve Options   

    60Bubba...Pleased to know that the piston size at the rear disc calipers will not require too much fluid volume from the master cylinder.  You're right about the 1-1/8" piston increasing the apply pressure slightly, though the booster should offset that change.  Make sure you have correct clearance between the booster's apply rod tip and the master cylinder's primary piston recess.  You want the master cylinder pistons to retract past their reservoir compensating port(s) when the brake pedal is released.
    It's reassuring to have a fully mechanical parking brake.  The caveat still applies: Avoid locking up the rear brakes if the front brake system fails.  A classic stunt car maneuver is to lock up the rear brakes (only) and force an immediate spin-out of the vehicle.  This stunt does not work for higher center-of-gravity vehicles like a Jeep CJ, as the risk of a rollover increases dramatically!  These stunts, in any case, are generally performed on a wet skid pad.
    That brass port tube seat in the master cylinder should come out; rebuild kits "in the day" included new tube seats for these master cylinders.  These port seats are often tapered for a press fit that gets reinforced by the flare nut/tube tightening torque.  When factory pressed into place or installed snugly with the tube and flare nut, the seat can really take a set.  This may well have occurred on your cylinder.  A screw extractor, cinched into the brass seat's fluid passageway, can sometimes be tapped sideways to rock a tapered tube seat loose.  (The rebuild kits often included a metal screw that fit the tube seat passageway.  The screw could be pried outward, using two opposing screwdrivers beneath the screw's head.  As a last resort, your technique with the slide hammer might work.)  
    Caution: Always vacuum and/or flush any brass debris from the port to prevent the debris from entering the hydraulic braking system.
    A quick search online turned up a source for master cylinder brass replacement "tube seats".  Scroll down the FAQ for a photo of the seats, you'll see how a tapered "peg" wedges the seat snugly into the iron cylinder:  These tube seats set firmly in the cylinder—as you discovered!
  14. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question 98 ford ranger fuel pump test   

    mtjeep82...Consider the fuel pressure regulator...Also could be the pump base filter in the tank...Before changing either, check the vacuum hoses and check valve(s) to the fuel pressure regulator.
    Do you have reason to suspect debris in the pump pickup filter?  If I were to drop the tank and change that filter, the pump would get replaced at the same time.  Too much work to replace the pump later...Your pump does seem okay at this point.
  15. Moses Ludel added an answer to a question 98 ford ranger fuel pump test   

    mtjeep82...Fuel restriction, like a gasoline filter or tank sock, could be involved here.  You're "priming" the injectors each time you cycle the key.  Another prospect would be the pressure regulator not holding while the injectors prime.  The fact that the engine and fuel pressure work fine once running would minimize the chance of the pump or regulator being at fault.
    This is a fuel flow issue, either low volume (with adequate pressure) or a fuel pressure regulator that's acting up...I would start by simply changing the fuel filter at the frame rail.  Make sure you use the correct tool for detaching the fuel filter lines, or you will damage the garter springs and wind up replacing expensive fuel lines.  
    This photo, courtesy of the internet, (thanks to the anonymous source) is a tool that works.  I have a K-D tool like this one and also the Lisle nylon garter spring release set in graduated sizes (for fuel, transmission and A/C lines).  Either will work and is readily available.  Take your time when disconnecting lines, you want them to seal when reassembled.  Assembly is simpler, just snap fittings squarely into place:

    Let us know whether the fuel filter does the trick!