Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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  • Birthday June 07

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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Moses Ludel's Activity

  1. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic Rebuilding the Jeep Ross TL Cam and Lever Steering Gear   

    Good work, Maury...We've worked through the alignment/fit of the bushings, you're pro grade now!  You'll be very happy with the results on these gears and a popular guy in the Willys/Kaiser Jeep community.  Considering the MB, M38, M38A1, Jeep Universal, Pickup, Station Wagon and FC models with the Ross cam-and-lever gears, that's a lot of folks!
    Thanks for posting the outstanding and detailed photos...These are very helpful to others.  During assembly, some photos of the lever studs in relationship to the worm groove during left to right turns, and through dead center, will be enlightening to many...inspiring them to stop re-positioning the steering wheel to correct for a steering gear that is off center!
    For those following us, remember that the cam-and-lever studs should have slight drag (zero backlash) over the center or high point of the worm groove.  Expect backlash as the gear steers away from center, left and right.  For details, refer back to my February 2nd and 6th replies at this topic.
    Keep us posted...
  2. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic 1966 CJ5, I just want to get her going!   

    The SM465 is an option, James.  However, you wind up with a very large transmission, longer (not good on an 81-inch wheelbase vehicle with a short rear driveline), and a taller compound low gear ratio.  One thing to consider is a used SM420 that you go through yourself, adding an Advance Adapters mainshaft and transfer case adapter in the process.  These older transmissions fit everything from 1/2-ton Chevrolet/GMC pickups to 2-ton trucks.  Just a thought...
    Note:  I'm partial to Advance Adapters products and have known the Partridge family since the 1980s.  (Their sponsorship at the magazine helps make these forums possible.)  In early 2013, I did a 17 HD video series on the Advance Adapters facility and products, the state of the art tooling and emphasis on QC.  When you have the time, search the magazine with "Advance Adapters" keywords.  I also knew the late Lloyd Novak, he and his wife Barbara joined my wife Donna and me at Oakridge, OR for lunch when they passed through in the early '90s.  Lloyd was very knowledgeable and, like John Partridge (Mike Partridge's father), Lloyd was a master machinist and problem solver.
    The wiring on the CJ is basic and easy to re-do, whether you add extra ground wires or not.  I am excited that you have this project and want to work through the CJ's needs.  Glad to help, and yes, we might just cross paths at the NW, Donna and I always enjoy Oregon and still have a strong compass bearing NW!  Like you, we're Nevadans:  Carson Valley/Gardnerville and Douglas High for me while Donna is from Yerington.  We also both have webbed feet.
    When you're in the Portland Area, you'd enjoy Powell's bookstore.  (Allow plenty of time!)  You might find a copy (new or used) of my Ford F-Series Pickup Owner's Bible.  
    Glad you ordered the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71, it's hands-on.  This is a good point in your project to do some armchair time.  If you're like we were at Oakridge, you have a nice wood burning stove to stay toasty and dry while you're reading!
  3. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic Rebuilding the Jeep Ross TL Cam and Lever Steering Gear   

    snoopy2x...I'd like to think this is Glyptal's "chemical compatibility choice", mineral spirits seems as dated as Glyptal.  I would think your idea of wiping down with clean rags would work.  See how the mineral spirits dry and be sure there is no residue left, including mineral spirits!  Be sure the surface is completely dry before applying Glyptal.
    JB Weld is useful for many light repairs.  However, what often gets thoroughly overlooked with JB Weld is its relatively low tensile strength.  Not much there compared to brazing, silver solder braze, welding and other "permanent" bonds where metal parts join.  Despite this caveat, we're talking about a fitted piece that should go back in place with some resistance.  No real pressure applies to this cover, it simply supports the wire tube and the lubricant.  The cover does need to seal well in a hostile environment of gear lube, engine heat and debris.
    Sealing ability and resistance to vibration, plus resistance to reasonable temperature fluctuations, would make the JB Weld attractive.  Gear lube or semi-fluid grease like you have considered can each cause chemical reactions.  On a bright note, JB Weld may have more to offer here.  
    Again, start by carefully shaping the cover to its full diameter before installing it.  That will make it fit snugly, and the primary role of the epoxy will be sealing.  If the cover is flat at the ledge, the actual joining area will be very slight.  On the outside of the gear, you may need to scuff the cured JB Weld with Scotchbrite pad or even sanding paper to assure that the Glyptal adheres. 
  4. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic Is it the Holy Grail welder, or just my dream come true?   

    BadDriver4x4...Nice machine, the real deal, you'll have a great time with the D.C. option for all position (particularly overhead) welding...You will want to wire this outfit properly, there's some major amperage involved in resistance/arc welding at this level...Congratulations, I'm very pleased you have a sense of humor and like to use it!
    Enjoy this find...This is the machine that many of us teethed on.  Very reliable and predictable, likely with modern upgrades and fail-safes.  I studied welding for two years at high school under the postwar/industrial and ag/vocational/tech training methodology.  We used Lincoln "buzz boxes" and learned AC and DC mode welding...Of everything I studied in high school, those two years of welding ultimately proved most useful.  (Great foundation skills from a terrific teacher.  None of us confirmed that until later.)  You've got a capable and proven SMAW machine there!  Glad you stepped up for the AC/DC option.
  5. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic 1966 CJ5, I just want to get her going!   

    66CJ5/James...The T86AA is the right transmission for OE.  Neither the T86AA or T90A is exciting without synchromesh on first gear.  You have the option of the T14 with a few parts to source for the bellhousing adapter and such.  The time-honored gain would be a truck-type 4-speed with compound low gear and synchromesh on 2-3-4.  Common for these applications is the Muncie SM420 swap, a rugged and GM compatible transmission.  A T98/T18 with some factory parts magic and adapter pieces is another approach.
    I would peruse the Advance Adapters catalog for parts involved in mating a truck transmission to your side-drive Model 18 Spicer transfer case.  You have many years of SM420 transmissions for sourcing, the box was used from the postwar period to the late-'sixties (1947-68).  Here's the scoop from Advance Adapters:  This would be my choice for adaptation simplicity around the use of a GM bellhousing and clutch fork.  All details are at the Advance Adapters website and catalogs.  This swap dates to the 1971 inception of the company.  The compound first gear is a remarkable 7.05:1, a virtual double reduction compared to the T86 or T90 first gear!  This really saves the chassis and occupants when crawling trail obstacles.  SM420 cores are still abundant...
    I'm not trying to spend your money, and if the T86AA becomes your approach, just beware of the non-synchromesh first gear.  Some of us still recall these boxes, I drove plenty of them and even spur gear transmissions with no synchromesh on any gear.  By the late 'sixties, however, everyone had moved to full synchro transmissions.  
    When you get the rebuilder's book, you will see how I fitted a T18/T98 to an F-head four stock iron bellhousing.  This is the factory method...Similarly, the Buick engine uses a stock GM bellhousing and an adapter/bearing retainer to the front face of the T86 or T14.  Though there have been T98 (similar to the T18) transmissions found in rare CJ-5 V-6 models, the aftermarket adaptation is just as easy as the factory approach.  Kaiser/Jeep made these fit-ups look like an aftermarket conversion!  The more costly pieces are the transmission to transfer case adapter and aftermarket output shaft.
    Any automotive conversion of anything requires modifications and some fabrication skills.  Though not rocket science, it is best to approach these projects and changes with a sense of realism.  The end result is desirable, but the path to that end has curves, twists and bends.  It takes parts, tools and commitment to get the vehicle on the road/trail.
    Fiberglass is a tub option if cost effective.  The coastal zone demands a long-term solution, and 'glass would be helpful here.  There are pitfalls around fit and the need to ground every light and accessory on its own circuit.  You might look at replacement metal tub options, there are several sources.
  6. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic 1966 CJ5, I just want to get her going!   

    James...Great pictures...The basket case transmission is a T90A.  The transmission in the Jeep looks similar but could still be a T86.  Many parts interchange here.  We can explore that if necessary.
    The 2GC Rochester looks authentically GM from the era.  A tag or stamping number can confirm.  This is a very basic Jeep and engine to work around, you'll like that factor.  Take the time to look through the many photos of Jeep V-6 models undergoing restoration here at the vintage Jeep forum.  The owner/forum members are doing a very nice job, and you're in very good company here.
    I would not put unleaded fuel in the crankcase.  Aside from the risk of a blowby and ignition fire, unleaded gasoline does not lubricate.  Try either automatic transmission fluid (one quart plus the rest clean motor oil) or a quart of Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil plus fresh oil.  Beware that gummy rings can get stuck while trying to clean up debris.
    Knowing the intricacies of the Buick V-6 lubrication systems, I suggest making sure the engine is registering oil pressure at the gauge, if not shut it off immediately.  If the vehicle set up for a long time and the oil drained back from the oil pump (or the oil pump, pump housing/timing cover are worn), the engine is not picking up oil prime.  The lack of lubrication to the upper engine could be a sign of no lubrication in general.  This is a Buick V-6 and period V-8 design issue, also common to AMC V-8s.
    Should the engine not be getting oil prime, the external oil pump can be removed readily to check for damage.  Inspect the timing cover's pump bore for damage as well.  (Read my CJ rebuilder's book section on oil pumps and priming the pump.)  Once pump parts are working, try packing the oil pump cavity with clean petroleum jelly.  Button up the pump and make sure the engine has fresh oil in the crankcase.  Crank the engine over and try to pick up oil prime.  
    Note:  If you suspect gunk in the crankcase, this could also be a clogged oil pickup screen and likely the promise that an engine rebuild will be on your to-do list.
    If the engine does pick up oil prime and registers oil pressure, see if that also pumps up the hydraulic valve lifters and clears the valve clatter.  If not, oil system trouble and/or clogged oil passageways are likely...You'd be due for an engine tear down and inspection.
  7. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic OK, you can stop laughing now...(1989 Jeep Wrangler won't run)   

    Hi, Larry...Sounds like lack of fuel if the starter fluid will fire the engine.  Check the spark and fuel while you crank.  An easy way to do both is with a timing light hooked to #1 spark plug lead.  Shine the light on the TBI nozzles while someone cranks the engine.  You should see spark (light flashes steadily as the engine cranks) and also see a spray mist of fuel.  
    If you have intermittent spark and no fuel, check the crankshaft position sensor at the 11 o'clock position on the bellhousing (looking toward the front of the vehicle).  The sensor could be damaged or simply dirty.  Is the flywheel resurfaced and clean?  Is there debris or oil grime on the flywheel?  Are all electrical grounds good?  If the fuel pump is not working, a ground issue could be involved.
    There are many 2.5L TBI related, in-depth troubleshooting topics here at the YJ/TJ Wrangler forums.  Here's a sampling from a keyword search using "TBI Troubleshooting" as search words at the search box (top of each forum page):  These exchanges will be very helpful, and if you need more information, just ask!
  8. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic Is it the Holy Grail welder, or just my dream come true?   

    Glad you're happy, BadDriver4x4...Curiosity question:  Reads 14 ga. maximum.  Here are gauge thicknesses for sheet:
    Gauge size standard: Thickness Gaugeinmm140.07471.897150.06731.709160.05981.519 
    Is this machine for body shop work?  0.0747" is just over 1/16" (0.0625" is 1/16" and between 15-gauge and 16-gauge).  
    Isn't this supposed to be a Lincoln 225/125 AC/DC machine?  Is there a 220V (single phase) circuit for the 225 amp AC/DC use?  Please look this machine over...I'm puzzled and want to make sure you got what you expected...and paid for.  I looked up the Lincoln "Hobby-Weld" and here's a link to the instruction and spec sheet PDF directly from Lincoln:  Looks like a 115V body shop (sheet metal) welder, 50 Amp maximum at 20% duty cycle.  Was that how your machine was represented?
    Watching your back...
  9. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic Rebuilding the Jeep Ross TL Cam and Lever Steering Gear   

    Maury...For installing the cover, I would use epoxy, industrial quality and resistant to lube oil and grease.  On the inside, wipe off any visible epoxy excess after seating the cover on its ledge.  On the outside, a beveled bead at the joining surface between the cover and casting bore would "lock" the cover in place and provide additional sealing.  This takes into account that the cover fits snugly in position.  The epoxy is just a backup and for sealing.
    Glad you provided details on the Glyptal, thanks!  This will help others use the material properly.  Your approach is sensible and provides an OEM restoration "look".  Should be attractive.
    As for returning to the bead blaster, don't bother.  The risk of embedding bead between the bushings ends and the gear case bore is not worth it.  That glass can work itself out later and be unwanted abrasive within the gear.  Some general ways to remove oil residue:  1) a heated parts washing cabinet that uses a soluble (water based) soap not harmful to bronze bushings, 2) wiping the case out with a paint reducer known to evaporate completely, 3) white gas/napthalene (Coleman stove gas equivalent) that tends to draw out oil and then evaporate (great for wiping up driveway oil drips, beware of the high flammability!) or 4) wipe out with denatured alcohol (wear proper gloves, this is toxic and deadly if drawn into skin nicks and cuts).  Ivory Liquid and similar dish detergents work well, they have slight alcohol content and will rinse thoroughly with warm water.
         Point of interest:  My Ammco 1450 Brake Parts Washer uses a water soluble alcohol based solvent:  Ammco_1350-1450_Brake_Washer_Operation_Manual.pdf.  An alternative is denatured alcohol (available at Home Depot or Lowes), which does not have a petroleum/mineral base; denatured alcohol will clean and draw out oil residue before evaporating.  Years ago, I used denatured alcohol for critical brake parts cleaning, first soaking parts and brushing, then washing parts with Ivory Liquid dish detergent solution and rinsing thoroughly with water before blowing off the parts with clean compressed air until completely dry.  Today, after safely instructing young adults at automotive/diesel mechanics in a modern shop setting, I have my own 1450 machine.  This brake parts washer is OSHA-approved to trap and contain asbestos found in older brake friction materials and clutch linings...
    You can ask Glyptal what they recommend that will not leave a residue or be incompatible with the Glyptal.  Please share your findings...
  10. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic 1966 CJ5, I just want to get her going!   

    66CJ5...Amazon, Advance Adapters, 4WD Harware, Quadratec and others have offered the book.  Of course, there's my publisher, Bentley Publishers.  I know this book has your CJ-5 V-6 restoration project in mind, enjoy it!
    We've traveled similar paths.  A longstanding Nevada resident, our family did spend a total of nine years at Oregon, and I know the Oregon Coast well.  We purchased our travel trailer from a private party at the Reedsport Area last summer and enjoyed a brief run down the coast to Bandon...When we lived at Oakridge from 1990-94, I wrote for SoCal magazines and also for the Oregonian while creating the Jeep Owner's Bible and Ford F-Series Pickup Owner's Bible, spending a lot of time at the coast doing photo shoots (Sand Lake, Florence, Winchester Bay, Salishan, Lincoln City and the Tillamook Trail Area).  We also like the Central Oregon high desert, much like Northern Nevada, plenty of Jeep country!  Many friends and family members still at the Eugene/Springfield Area, the U of O is my alma mater. 
    Once you have the rust in check on the CJ-5, you'll be resting a lot easier, especially at the coastal region with salt air.  The book will be helpful for mechanical chores.  We'll discuss questions and concerns that come up!
    In looking over your pictures, I see some classic parts that can stand upgrades, in particular the ignition distributor.  A Delco-Remy window cap distributor like the Buick 225 V-6 type (odd-fire version) would be an improvement when you need to address the ignition.  Other CJ owners at these forums have the Delco-Remy distributor as an example...Also, take a look at the casting numbers on the transmission.  Curious if it is a T90, the Jeep CJ V-6 usually has a T86 (3-speed with no synchromesh on 1st gear) or T14 (3-speed with synchromesh on first gear).  You may be looking for an upgrade swap if you haven't repaired the damaged transmission yet.
    The T86 is likely in the Jeep now.  Much like a T90, this transmission was a Jeep mainstay in 2WD applications and the earlier V-6 CJs.  Rebuilding a T86 follows steps much like the T90.
  11. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic Jeep Brake Master Cylinders and Residual Valve Options   

    tpoulson...In traditional master cylinder rebuild kits, new port seats were provided.  There are still sources of port seats for those who need to replace a worn or damaged seat.  I found sources with a simple Google Search.  Click on the link in my 11-22-2015 reply above...I can share more details if you need them.
  12. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic 1966 CJ5, I just want to get her going!   

    Wonderful start to a project, 66CJ5!  Glad you have my Jeep Owner's Bible, you also would benefit from a copy of the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual:  1946-71.  The book is hands-on and addresses actual work you'll need to do.  
    Here at the forums, I would be glad to answer questions you have about specific needs and road-worthiness.  You're in very good company, we have several members with V-6 CJ restorations underway!  We're all interested in seeing your project go well...
  13. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic 1990 Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L Choking Down and Starting Problems   

    mtjeep82...We've discussed lube for the AX15 and AX5 from many angles...You'll find this particular quote of mine directly answers your question:  
    "The original Mopar gear oil should cross over to Valvoline's current MTF #811095 gear lube.  This emphasis on oil types in these Aisin transmissions has been largely exaggerated, BlueFlu.  I ran the official Mopar AX5/AX15 oil for years, until it was no longer available.  Toyota's equivalent transmissions use a recommended API GL4 or GL5 in 75W-90 or 80W-90 viscosity.  This readily available Valvoline oil should work well.  Redline and Amsoil offer alternative synthetics under these ratings.  What I would avoid is the "motor oil" equivalents suggested now by Mopar, as this is typically not an oil for gear mechanisms that require EP (Extreme Pressure) lubes.  That's my view...Here is Valvoline's viewpoint and part number cross-references:
    Valvoline Transmission Lube Catalog.pdf"
    From a cost and compatibility standpoint, the Valvoline MT lube described is closest to the OEM Mopar original lube for the AX15/AX5.  I am not a fan of using 10W-30 motor oil in any manual transmission, which some suggest is the current Mopar recommendation for the AX15/AX5.  
    I did use the genuine AX15/AX5 Mopar lube years ago when it was available.  Today, I would use Valvoline's MT...Download the Valvoline PDF catalog.
  14. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic Comp Cams Choices?   

    DrDale...Thanks for joining the forums and entering this discussion...Like you, I'm a CompCams fan, have been since the 'eighties.  
    From what you describe, the 252 grind (our traditional, time-tested application for a carbureted or non-COP EFI/MPI Jeep inline engine) would be best for your purposes unless CompCams has data showing the COP camshaft will outperform the 252 in a non-COP engine.  Compared to a stock camshaft, the 252 grind will provide great bottom end torque, a quicker torque rise, and solid mid-range power.  
    In nearly three decades of using this 252 cam, on everything from inline Jeep sixes and a Ford 300 six (1987 MPI version) to 383 Chevy V-8 stroker motors, this camshaft has been my choice.  My best metaphor is the 383 stroker that I build for an FJ40 Land Cruiser, an OFF-ROAD Magazine project in the late 'eighties.  I installed a hefty 168 tooth iron flywheel and built the engine to 8.7:1 compression.  With a four-barrel Quadrajet carburetor, blueprinted for sea level tune, I took the 'Cruiser over the Rubicon Trail without a whimper.  In low range, first gear, I could brake against the engine down to 400 rpm, and the 383 would tick over dutifully.  When I lifted my foot off the brake pedal, the engine resumed its stone steady, 650 rpm idle.  I never touched the idle mix screws yet drove over 7,000 feet elevation.
    Will you experience this with a Jeep 4.0L?  Not exactly.  The 4.0L engine lacks the stroke length to have diesel-like power.  The 383 stroker, or even a 4.6L Jeep inline stroker, will build exceptional torque from idle to 2000 rpm.  Other modifications aside, will you gain from the 252 grind in a 4.0L?  Absolutely, with more bottom end and useful torque and horsepower.  A reasonable ceiling for this engine and camshaft is 4,200-4,500 rpm, plenty for sure.  You can spin to 5,000 without trouble, the power will not build, though.
    I would emphasize that a 260 CompCam is a whole other story and requires lower axle gears and closer gear ratios in the transmission to perform at its best.  The 260 grind is a strong mid-range to higher rpm camshaft if that is what you want.  The Crane cam sounds similar.  As a rule of thumb, if you want great bottom end torque, increase the valve lift and be conservative on the duration and valve overlap.  260 and "bigger" camshafts require more fuel and CFM air flow, and they lack the exceptional idle vacuum of a 252 grind.  Manifold vacuum is the key to power, efficiency and fuel mileage.  I want strong manifold vacuum from an idle through mid-range rpm.
    Worth the expense to buy a 252 CompCams camshaft and kit?  Yes, in my view, and this camshaft is completely compatible with non-COP (distributor type) engines into 1999.  I have not tried the COP camshaft discussed in this topic; however, if I wanted a camshaft for a Coil-On-Plug (first shows up in some 1999 4.0L engines) Jeep inline 4.0L or a 4.6L stroker in a COP chassis, the newer CompCams 255/263 grind with 113 lobe separation sounds worthy of attention.  It's at least compatible with the late PCM!
  15. Moses Ludel added a post in a topic Rebuilding the Jeep Ross TL Cam and Lever Steering Gear   

    Hi, Maury...First off, the use of Glyptal is purposeful.  This is an anti-corrosion protection.  On my rebuilds where Glyptal is still intact and in good shape on the inside of a gear housing, I leave it in place.  Otherwise, it would be sensible to restore this coating.  Corrosion occurs most frequently in a gear that sets with lube not circulating; rust or oxidation forms at the "dry" area above the lubrication line if there is bare casting.  Glyptal adheres very well to cast iron and tolerates most lubricants.  I've seen Glyptal intact after more than a half-century in place.  Tough stuff!  It was commonly used in the automotive industry and is still available today.  Though not cheap, it is insurance.
    Your reasoning about marking the case and lever shaft at its precise on-center position makes very good sense.  Any method that assures an accurate alignment of the worm center position with the lever on center is practical.  If you can see this alignment and mark the index points, that's great...Again, the lever shaft must ultimately be in its on-center position with the front wheels pointed straight ahead, as I described in my reply above.
    The machine shop should be able to straighten the tube to a centered position.  The process should be a simple cold bending, as this tubing is ductile enough to readily bend the very slight amount you describe.  This is not an elaborate step to take, the shop can do it cold, using a lathe (no cutting, please!) or a similar alignment fixture to find center.  The aim is to have the steering wheel rotating on center without binding the upper column bearing or the worm cam bearings.  You are better off with a genuine Ross cam and tube!
    As for the lower bearing race surrounding the wire tube, I have removed races in blind holes by carefully running short weld beads (MIG or stick) at 3 or 4 points on the race's face and not near the outer edge of the race.  (If you attempt this, avoid damaging or overheating the gear housing!)  Run one 1/2" bead at a time, and let the race and gear housing cool completely between beads.  The result should be a shrinking of the race's O.D. as the race cools.  Sometimes, the first bead will do it, sometimes two beads at opposite points, four short beads at most.  
    Note:  Bearing races are hard steel and will shrink from this heat and cooling/contraction.  In my experience, the race is quite loose when the bead(s) cool.  You need a steady hand and good aim with the MIG gun or stick electrode to avoid arc damage to the cast iron housing.  If the square edged bearing race's installation did not distort the housing bore, the heat from shrinking the race should not impact the seating or fit of the new race.  Do not attempt to cool down the bearing race or gear housing with water, compressed air or other means; allow the housing to cool naturally...Should you attempt this procedure, let us know the outcome and catch a few photos in the process.
    If weld beads on the bearing race face sound daunting, the cover/tube can be removed and reinstalled if not too far out of shape.  Mark its position before removal and attempt to reinstall the cover in that same position.  Before installation, flatten the cover's edge to expand it slightly for a snug fit.  You can use an industrial quality, oil resistant epoxy to set the cover at the bore ledge, also applying epoxy around the outer cover lip and its joint with the gear housing bore.  There is no pressure on the cover if the tube is straight, and the cover should stay in place and seal well.  Your gear housing casting is bead blasted and clean, providing an optimal, porous surface for epoxy adhesion.