Moses Ludel

Administrators
  • Content count

    2,949
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    56

2 Followers

About Moses Ludel

  • Rank
    Administrator
  • Birthday June 7

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.4WDmechanix.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests
    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,608 profile views
  1. Christa...I'm unclear what the shop replaced with the transmission build. Did they account for each of the points I described in the March 10th reply above? Did your brother Bruce go over those points with the shop? Make sure each of those possible trouble areas has been addressed. Discuss this with the transmission shop before moving to other possibilities. If not transmission or shift system related, this could be a brake or ABS system problem...See if there is a specific problem with the ABS module, the rear ABS pumping system or the rear axle's Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) sensor signal to the ABS system. Connections and wiring can be faulty. Something could be falsely triggering the brake ABS function. Make sure the brake master cylinder is releasing completely. Make sure the brakes are not dragging. (Check for hot pads and rotors, or hot drums at the rear if so equipped, when the vehicle has been driven normally...Do not burn your fingers!) Make sure fluid is not getting trapped in the brake hydraulic system by a partially applied master cylinder or a master cylinder reservoir return port that is obstructed. Check the rear brakes for loose or dragging parts. A sticking caliper (disc brakes) or wheel cylinder piston (drum brakes) could create brake drag and set off the ABS. A defective rear brake or chassis height proportioning valve can cause rear wheel lock-up. Make sure the hydraulic proportioning valve is not defective or trapping fluid in the rear braking system. Do as much as you can with scanner testing/diagnostics to pinpoint an electrical or module problem before putting any more parts into the truck. If you can with certainty rule out a transmission-related problem, I would troubleshoot the rear brakes, ABS system and the brake hydraulic system. The lift and oversized tires complicate the ABS signal, but you share that the system did work properly for a long time then suddenly acted up. Let us know what this turns out to be... Moses
  2. I'm sure the chassis will be artfully restored, Megatron! Have a safe Memorial Day with the family, looking forward to your updates! Moses
  3. Ian with the CJ10 might be a candidate...We also have several CJ-8/Scrambler members...Good luck with finding a home for these new seals.
  4. Where did you find these figures, Sinisterwillys1940? The ICM (ignition control module) is the module/coil assembly. The firing signal is from the ECU terminal 27 via terminal B of Connector #2 (the middle, two-wire connector). What's significant here is the relationship between the spark trigger signal (ECU generated) and the ICM. Make sure the ICM plug connectors look good and are free of any corrosion. You can see why the ECU plug connectors are equally important.
  5. Orange sounds weak. Should be a sharp blue under no firing load like your test. An arc length adjustable tester would be more accurate, but your method should be reliable. Spark cables or the coil's output would be involved here. Check the coil ohms just to be sure it's not the coil. If the coil reads normal, install new plug wires. Considering your ohms-resistance readings on the wires, I would replace the plug wires and coil lead regardless.
  6. In the EFI era, we're quick to rely upon check lights, fault codes and sensor troubleshooting. Often overlooked are the old mainstay issues like worn or defective spark plug cables. Your comment about humidity suggested checking the spark cables. How old are these cables? A long arc spark test would be helpful, ideally when it's humid.
  7. Welcome to the forums, Dean...I am assuming that you're listening for the fuel pump from the same location, whether the doors are open or not...If the pump is not operating unless the doors are open, you have an open in the fuel pump circuit related to the door wiring, window/door lock switches or the vehicle's security system. This could be a faulty factory or aftermarket security system or door window/lock switch that is interrupting the circuit to the fuel pump. Do you have a security system that could be cutting out the ignition circuit when the doors are shut? If so, this is the first trouble spot to consider. Beyond this, has your wiring been tampered with? Is there a sign that the door jamb wiring to or from the door switches is shorting or has a voltage drop from an abnormally high amperage draw (a defective door switch, faulty interior lamp wiring, etc.)? The power distribution box wiring could be getting a large amperage draw or voltage drop from the door wiring or a defective door lock/window switch. We've covered the door switches for the XJ Cherokee at the forum, they are notorious for failing over time. Do a forum search box hunt under "All Content", using the keywords "door locks" or "power windows". Check the fuel pump relay and its socket terminals to see whether they function properly and can get current to the pump. This could reveal a voltage drop with the doors closed or a harness that has shorted, or another cause that prevents the fuel pump module from getting current. The fuel pump is triggered at the PCM. Keep in mind that the doors trigger the interior lighting. Have any speakers or roof accessories been installed that would interfere with the interior light circuits or grounds? To trace this further as an electrical/wiring issue, you need a factory wiring schematic to trace the fuel pump circuit and its relationship to the door wiring circuits. Moses
  8. Maury, in considering the CFM air filter issue further, there seems to be some ambiguity. The Wix CFM numbers make little sense if you compare them with carburetor CFM requirements. You did the right thing by comparing applications for the filter you installed. If a small V-8 can be fed adequate air through this filter matrix, you likely have a good pick. Application is often the safest way to pick an air filter for a modified air induction system. If you're still concerned about flow, there are ways to determine whether the filter is flowing enough air. With a fixed jet carburetor like yours, this is much easier to determine than with an EFI engine that has an O2 sensor. EFI can, to a reasonable degree, adjust air/fuel ratios to compensate for a slightly clogged or restricted air filter. In your case with a carburetor and fixed jets, the concern is sufficient air flow and volume over the range of normal engine rpm. If the filter is too restrictive, the engine will be "choked" and running rich as if the choke were applied. The degree of restriction and enrichment will depend upon the air flow through the air filter. If you installed the filter and discovered that the idle mixture became too rich, that would be one indicator of restriction. You would also need to account for air flow at more demanding, higher engine speeds. Note: It is normal to lean the idle mixture screws slightly after installing the air filter assembly. Any filter will enrich the mix a small amount. When I suggest "too rich", I'm referring to a fully warmed engine that is blubbering at idle and needs a significant idle mixture screw adjustment. The only real test would be a comparison of tailpipe air/fuel ratio readings with and without the filter installed—or comparing the original oil bath cleaner to your new paper air filter design. Any filter will enrich the fuel mixture some, but we're concerned about numbers indicating a restricted air flow. Also, if the filter is restrictive at higher engine speeds, the engine will quite literally run out of air and act as if choked or flooding. You should be okay if 1) your engine's performance seems normal, 2) the spark plug coloration remains the same as when the oil bath filter was in its original form, and 3) there are no signs of choking or starving for air. Fuel mileage would be a clue as well. My mentioning spark plug coloration is important. With carbureted motorcycle engines and jetting tests, the primary measurement tool has been spark plug porcelain coloration and signs of rich or lean operation. Lean makes plugs whiter, and too lean can even crack the porcelain. Richer mixtures look dark brown to black if sooty enough. With new or cleaned off spark plugs, the aim is to run a fully warmed engine to nearly redline, hold speed there briefly, then shut the engine off abruptly. Reading the plug(s) tells the tale. The spark plug readings, if you know what is "normal" for your 225 V-6, should be a reliable test. Short of driving down the road with an A/F ratio probe and testing equipment hooked up, a DIY Jeep enthusiast/mechanic has few options. Paying for dyne time to make high speed tests under engine load would be cost prohibitive. Drive the Jeep and see how it performs. Under load at higher speeds, make sure there is no loading up or stumbling from lack of air flow. Beyond that, this filter should provide good engine protection. Wix is a good product line, and you used OEM applications to back up your filter choice. Moses
  9. Resistance is low on these cables...Before replacing them, though, try a basic spark arc test: Using an insulated spark plug pliers, hold a test spark plug's ground strap against the engine block or head. Widen the test plug's gap and see what kind of arc you're getting across the gap. Test each spark plug wire. A quicker test is to use an induction timing light. If you can replicate the missing or stumbling, watch the timing light at each spark plug lead. Try to match the miss with a stumble of the light. This would be a clear indication of an ignition problem. If the distributor cap is old, check the tower contacts for corrosion and also check for carbon tracking inside the cap (between the contacts). Check the rotor tip for corrosion. If the problem occurs when the engine is warm or hot, test the ignition module and coil.
  10. If this data is correct, in part it would be engine tune. You're at the peak era for carbureted engine "de-tuning" to meet emissions. Comparing the spark timing curves would be revealing. The CTS-2304 should be a reliable FSM for that data. I would also check the I-H camshaft and valve timing profiles for these two engines. Could be different patterns to build torque in the 345 and horsepower in the 304. There is a significant improvement in the 345 torque at a lower rpm. Even if the camshafts are the same, the longer stroke 345 would naturally produce more low-end torque—like comparing the AMC/Jeep 232 and 258 inline sixes. The 258 has a quick torque rise like a diesel while the 232 was used in AMC cars like the Pacer. The 345 has impressive torque figures, and that's what I-H would want in a base engine for medium duty trucks. The 304 was obviously intended for the light truck line. These engines share basic architecture but have different torque expectations. You can surely get by with the 304/D20 powertrain for a Scout II or Terra. However, if you were after more torque and a lower speed engine with quicker torque rise, the longer stroke 345 would be your pick.
  11. If this is clearly a humidity related issue, it could be ignition related or maybe connections at the ECU or coil. Worth a check...You can test spark wire plug leads with your ohmmeter. I always consider the coil to cap lead first. With the 2.5L TBI coil and distributor cap, the secondary coil wire fires four times per rotor rotation. This wire is more susceptible to failure. Test it before the others...
  12. Sabueso...Glad you shared all of your work with others! Below are a few comments in red to add some details:
  13. As for replacing the combination valve, these units last a very long time unless there is corrosion or contamination of the braking system. If the valve seems to work okay, it likely is okay. Make sure you follow the J-tool procedure when bleeding the brake system on your Jeep. If the combination valve is not held open, you will have a very difficult time (if not impossible) bleeding the brakes front-to-rear. Note the tool described in the FSM or simulate its function. Regarding sources for a performance booster, I'm not familiar firsthand with any of the current suppliers. That's why I mentioned 60Bubba and his account.
  14. Nice commitment to the original air filter housing for look, fit and function...Lots of work, but your end result justifies the effort! Substantial surface area on the pleated paper air filter that you're using. I like the filter's mesh screen, too.