Moses Ludel

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About Moses Ludel

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  • Birthday June 7

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    http://www.4WDmechanix.com

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    Male
  • Location
    Reno Area...Nevada
  • Interests
    Family, destination four-wheeling and dual-sport motorcycling, photography, videography, fly-fishing, anthropology, automotive mechanics and welding/metallurgy.

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  1. Driving along our local Main Street, I came upon this 1979 AMC era Jeep CJ-5 for sale. As advertised by the seller, this vehicle has undergone extensive work and restorative effort...Price wise, it's evident that the market for vintage Jeep iron has heated up! Before considering the sticker shock price, note that this Jeep has a new steel tub and a variety of restorative parts. Worth commenting, it still needs work, and a 1979 model has its pros and cons. First off, this is near the end of the somewhat brief (1972-80, 1980 V-8 applications seem rare) 304 V-8 option era. By 1981, CJs were either 4-banger or inline six equipped. The 1979 CJ has a rugged Spicer 20 transfer case; this is through-drive but lacks the better helically cut gears found in 1980-up CJs. The Spicer 20 also has a less desirable and taller low range ratio. Despite any fretting over details, this vehicle sends a joyful message to CJ owners: The market is alive and well, along with price hikes! Note: I did not go over this vehicle with a fine-toothed comb nor did I locate the owner and have him run it. It's unclear what condition the vehicle is, and we can only go by the advertised for sale signs on the windshield. Did not confirm whether the vehicle sold and if so, can't say what this Jeep actually sold for.
  2. Welcome to the forums, B.M.A.C. Your 32RH is experiencing a classic case of a Chrysler RWD transmission with an empty torque converter! I discuss this, and a solution, at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Survival-Upgrades-for-Jeep-and-Dodge-Ram-Automatic-Transmissions?r=1 The actual issue is torque converter drain-back. The RWD Chrysler transmissions (904/999, 727, A518, A618, RH and RE types) do not pump fluid into the converter in Park mode. You start the engine, and if the anti-drain-back valve to the torque converter has not been holding, the converter does not fill while you're idling in Park. A drained or semi-drained converter does not lube the front pump bushing. Your only clue is the lack of gear engagement, the "Neutral" sensation. You're experiencing the partial converter fill with the intermittent free-wheeling. Our Ram's 48RE first exhibited this issue after the truck had parked for weeks. I ran the engine in Park for a minute or so to circulate engine oil. When I shifted to Drive, there was no movement for several seconds, then the vehicle began to move. I've worked with automatic transmissions professionally since the late 'sixties and immediately sought a remedy...You'll find my discussion and fix at the link. To cure this without the use of a Sonnax full-pressure lubing valve, you will need to restore the anti-drain-back function. A new anti-drain-back valve would be the fix. (Flushing seldom works.) A repaired or replaced anti-drain-back valve will hold fluid in the converter when the vehicle is parked or started and run in Park. A filled converter will work normally during gear engagement. Considering the lengthy history of this Chrysler design quirk (try 1962-up!) and its serious damage potential (front pump bushing failure and more), one must marvel. Sonnax engineered a ready solution to this problem, primarily for the transmission rebuilding industry, likely to protect warranties on transmission work. Moses
  3. Welcome to forums, TxWolf53...Like usual, a code read would be helpful and at least point toward any obvious issues. As I caution, reinforced by the experiences of members and what they have shared, a code does not always mean, "Oh, let's replace that part!" Many owners have joined the forums after throwing good money after bad with no success. Before considering other issues, and based upon the symptoms you describe, I would check out the FIPL (Throttle Position Sensor). On the 7.3L diesel models like yours, a defective or simply out of adjustment FIPL can lead to shift irregularities like you describe. Often, a careful adjustment will remedy the issue. Here is the factory procedure. Zoom-in for details: Ford E4OD FIPL Diesel.pdf Check out the FIPL and try an adjustment first...A code read would be helpful, too. Let us know what you find. Fuel efficiency is subjective. In general, diesels are hypersensitive to rpm. The 7.3L Navistar/Powerstroke is, in my view, the best diesel option Ford has offered to date. Fuel efficiency with this engine, however, is more like a medium duty truck application. If you drive close to the engine's torque peak rpm, or below that rpm, you will be able to get an accurate read on fuel efficiency. You should be able to achieve 18-plus mpg when running empty at cruise speeds. Trailering to 10K Gross should still attain 11-14 mpg at the right rpm. The 4.10 gears will challenge mileage a bit but this kind of ratio takes a load off the engine and transmission. How many miles are on the powertrain (engine/transmission)? This can impact fuel efficiency some. Moses
  4. We'll make this encompassing, flynntr. Whether an automotive or household issue, there is enough similarity to address the general question. Household current is AC. Short circuits with AC or DC, if causing breakers to trip or fuses to blow, can be a matter of wire gauge. If you did nothing more than replace wires, following the exact same circuits, and if the house's original wiring was engineered correctly, the wire size/gauge could be an issue. If you have actual shorts from open or bare wiring going to ground, there may be wire insulation damage, which can be cuts at conduit ends/junctions (if conduit). With Romex-type cable wiring, nails or cable staples can damage the wiring insulation. I firmly believe in the use of an insulation resistance test of wiring. I learned this from highly professional electricians/engineers who consistently use expensive meters like the Fluke 1587 to simulate non-destructive higher voltage flow in wiring circuits. During these kinds of meter tests, the voltage is high but amperage is low enough that there is no risk of actually damaging the wires being tested. Given the high cost of these test instruments and the learning curve for using such tools properly, it would be cheaper to have a professional electrician run these tests. Rather than isolating wires and tracing individual circuits behind walls, an insulation resistance test for shorts to ground or shorts between two wires can be run. A professional will consider the wire gauge for the amperage capacity and length of wire runs. A professional will isolate and test circuits that are shorting. Sounds like time for some professional assistance... Moses
  5. You're concerned about both pressure and volume of flow...Of course the ECU could be defective in the end, but the faulting symptoms raise doubts. I like your strategy of ruling out a fuel issue first. You'll at least know for sure whether fuel pressure and flow volume are okay. Also, check out the EGR valve function and be sure the plunger is seating. O2 sensor malfunctions can also be trouble spots. A rare but additional possibility is the wiring from the CPS if subjected to heat. I installed an aftermarket header on our 4.0L XJ Cherokee, and the CPS wiring got too close to the tubes. There was a clear misfire and stalling condition that developed soon thereafter. (A non-destructive insulation resistance test with a Fluke 1587 meter or equivalent would have revealed a short to ground.) At least worth a peek... Moses
  6. First of all, flynntr, welcome to the forums! Regarding welding as a career, I have a bias in favor of this choice. I like the creativity and metallurgy aspects, the "science" behind fusing metals properly. I like the hand-to-eye coordination challenges and the satisfaction at seeing a finished structure or repair. Like any trade, there are various levels of skill and specialization. Weldors range from structural (like steel buildings or light manufacturing) to exotic metals fabricators who work from rigid blueprints with specialty filler materials. Processes worth pursuing are TIG/GTAW and alloys welding. If adept at these processes, the pay rate and job security increase substantially. With any trade, it's always about motivation. If your brother likes welding enough to take it as far as his aptitude and skills will allow, he can make a good living within the trade. Pipeline certified, aircraft/alloy certified or specialty tool-and-die welders make a higher income and can find work more readily. Of course, slowdowns in a given economic sector can impede job availability. The best hedge against layoffs or work shortage is always to be the best and most skilled at your craft. Safety conscious, well-trained weldors can find work. I'm not personally familiar with Weld Tech training. Others may be able to comment on this particular school. Referrals to graduates who are willing to talk about their job experiences and placements would be helpful. Ask about the official certifications available. In the trade, certifications at key processes go a long way toward securing a quality career type job. I taught adult education level welding, wrote curriculum and had students tested at AWS and I-CAR levels. These certifications are valuable assets for job procurement. Moses
  7. flynntr...Any time, a favorite subject! We need to be encouraging to others at this level, our quality of life is important, and conditioning is very much a key here. Nutrition is central, fitness is big, and overall, staying healthy matters. Worth noting, as we age, metabolism can slow and become an issue. (Statistically, this can happen from age 25 onward, though exercise and nutrition play a role in postponing or offsetting this process.) I'm looking forward to cooler weather and riding my dirt motorcycle more, for me that's an incentive to boost and maintain my overall training. We each have a metaphor for staying in shape and healthy. It needs to be important enough to follow through... I picked up a used Specialized ATB (bicycle) for general training, and I ride it regularly, a great investment of less than $300 total including new tires, tubes, seat and seat tube. We have always had working and field dogs that demand/deserve vigorous walks in the hills, and we're between dogs now. We're putting out feelers for a puppy or rescue, breeds that have worked for us include Golden Retrievers, Labs and the Australian sheep dogs. They like to travel in back country and play hard. Their regular exercise requirements get us moving! It helps to find a personally gratifying outlet, which can be hiking to a remote lake for fly fishing, hunting in the field, simply walking an energetic dog, whatever you're willing to do on a regular basis. Body weight in check is very helpful, weight loss a sensible goal if needed, the results raise energy levels and metabolism. In my experience, it's always easier to maintain weight at a lower set point. Added body weight increases the amount of energy expenditure necessary to lose weight or maintain the right lean mass-to-fat ratio. It's much easier to stay a middleweight than a cruiser weight! Let's keep our community healthy and motivated! Moses
  8. Umm...Ignition switch not completing the ground for the buzzer? Follow the wiring schematic again and see why the key is not completing a ground... Good news is that the buzzer itself works. That expense is saved. Moses
  9. This is very cool, Ian! The conversion was well thought out. Too bad the Jeep's body doesn't lend itself to restoration. Many FSJs fetch a hefty price in the U.S. these days, especially a well-heeled Grand Wagoneer in exceptional original or fully restored condition. I've considered building a Grand Wagoneer with Dana 60 axles and a 5.9L 24-valve CRD H.O. Cummins ISB engine and 48RE transmission (OD built on the 727 platform, original equipment for our '05 Ram 3500). The ISB would actually fit well, as you cite, the engine bay was designed for the longer 4.2L inline Jeep six. Keep us posted on this. I'm looking forward to the 6.2L engine conversion photos! Moses
  10. 88yj25...Thanks...This could still be a poor ground like we discuss with these models. Paint, corrosion, oxidized contact points and such can be causes for faulty grounds or intermittent opens. Check battery terminal connections closely and the engine-to-body grounds once more. It sounds like you've been very thorough, though one common issue is the engine ground that attaches near the dipstick. If this is not an ignition or ECU related cause, I would consider the in-tank sock filter at the bottom of the fuel tank. You share that you've changed the fuel filter and pump. Did you clean or replace the sock? Were there signs of debris or sloughing in the fuel tank? Has the filter been in the system for 6K miles? One tank of bad fuel with high water content can swell paper matrix in the fuel filter and an create obstruction. The fuel filter is an easy fix. To isolate fuel system from ignition issues, consider installing a gauge and "T" fitting at the TBI test port. First check for consistent fuel pressure within range. Then check for fuel volume flow with a bleed-off hose from the "T". With a valve on the hose and a safe fuel-resistant catch can, start the engine with the valve closed to maintain proper pressure; then open the valve and observe the volume of fuel coming from the hose. It must be ample with a steady stream, consistent enough to keep the engine running under any load or speed. I'm betting on a fuel pressure or fuel flow volume issue. Yes, the ECU could have an intermittent open, though this is a longer shot; ECUs do fail and develop solder joint fractures that cause intermittent troubles...The unpredictable nature of the miss makes me consider a fuel issue first. Also, the O2 sensor could be an issue if old or exposed to a rich fuel mixture. A clogged catalytic converter is always a possibility though usually accompanied by loss of performance at all times. For a quick check of spark, hook up your timing light at each plug lead, one at a time. At each plug, look for a steady, solid flash of the timing light with the engine idling. If you can get the engine to misfire during this test, it will be easy to see whether the miss is spark related. Places to start...Keep us posted! Moses
  11. The door jamb switch is cheaper and easy to replace. I'd try the switch first. It may just be corroded if exposed to humidity or moisture. You might even be able to restore the contact surfaces of the switch and re-tension its spring. The door switch looks like a common ground-type with an internal spring. Moses
  12. Hi, Andrew...I would check the oil pressure with a mechanical oil pressure gauge to rule out a problem with the sender or OEM gauge. See if the reading is the same as what you see at the dash instruments. This will rule out gauge error. If the oil pressure shows the same tendencies, I would question the oil circulation, possibly a clogged oil pump pickup screen. If you drop the pan and deal with the pump and screen, it would be smart to install a new set of rod and main bearings at the same time to be safe. Check the crank journals and Plastigage for roundness. Let us know your findings... Moses
  13. Unique, Ian! I'm curious: Previous owner installed a G.M. 6.2L naturally aspirated diesel in this FSJ chassis? 727 Chrysler automatic or a G.M. THM400 behind that 6.2L diesel? Very unusual but functional setup. Will the 4.6L Jeep stroker six do well with all that FSJ weight? Moses
  14. Neutel...Did you get the "0" reading at the front servo with the shifter in "D" position? On Page #21-66 of the pressure testing PDF, in the first column under "Test Three-Transmission in D Range", note that the front servo is only pressurized with the shifter in "D" shifter range. Mopar wants technicians to use two gauges for this test, one at the line pressure port, the other at the front servo. Line pressure should be 54-60 psi (372-414 kPa) with the throttle lever moved all the way forward (maximum setting). Pressure increases as the throttle lever moves rearward. The test is performed with the engine at a constant 1600 rpm. You move the throttle lever at the transmission, do not move the throttle/kickdown lever with the gas pedal. Do not open the gas pedal; keep engine rpm at 1600 during this test. The Jeep must be safely on a vehicle hoist or quality jack stands when performing this test. Do not get hurt!...The throttle pressure should nearly match (within 3 psi or 21 kPa) the transmission line pressure during the test. This throttle lever position is just before the "kickdown" position on the throttle lever. Moses
  15. I like your approach...You've solved a poor voltage situation on #1 and #7. You do need continuity between the ground terminal (#3) and chassis ground according to the PDF wiring schematic. Note that #3 goes directly to ground. #6 is the LH door switch creating a ground when the key is in the ignition switch and the door opens. The LH door switch closes to create a ground, this is a classic door jamb switch. Check the continuity across the LH door switch, open and closed, this plays a significant role. Make sure the switch creates a full ground when it closes. These switches get make poor contact with age, in this case a poor ground. Check the ground continuity from Terminal #3 to a solid chassis ground. Check the continuity between each end of the #3 ground wires. Moses