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Dana 300 Transfer Case Slips Out of 2H Range


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I am having a new issue with the old Jeep. Just recently the transfer case is slipping out of 2H into neutral. It does fine in 4H and 4L, but if it is in 2H it will not stay in gear. I can hear it grind like the gears are trying to slide in, but they do not. I have to pull it into gear, then it holds for a second and slides back out.

 

This is a Dana 300 from what I can tell. It is on an 83 CJ.

 

Please tell me it is an easy adjustment and not a transfer case repair.

 

Kevin

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Kevin, there are a few "smaller" repairs that can create better gear hold-in on a Dana 300.  However, simpler cures like carpet or boot interference are unlikely, since 2H is not at the top or bottom of the shift pattern.

 

Before plunging into a rebuild, I would suggest a quick check of the shift rails and linkage around the shift lever.  There are times when either loose parts or binding prevent full shifts or detent action in a given gear.  That's the external fix.  Shift rail springs and poppets can cause trouble, but these parts usually last between rebuilds.

 

Our fellow forum member, Forman, did a thorough rebuild on a CJ-7 Dana 300 and posted with detailed photo illustrations.  Here is that post and follow-up:

 

http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/260-rebuilding-a-jeep-cj-7-dana-300-transfer-case/

 

I perform a detailed step-by-step rebuild of the Dana 300 in my book, the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers).  If you plan to do your own rebuilding of sub-assemblies on your Jeep CJ, this book has served many owners well.  It is available through Advance Adapters and several of the 4WD/Jeep parts suppliers.

 

Moses 

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Moses,

Thank you for the quick reply.

 

I think I am going to be dead in the water for a while. No Jeeping for me for a while. The outside components look good.

 

It is not able to hold in place at all. It feels like the shifter lever stays in place while the gears move. The lever has to be pulled back into the 4H area for 2H to start to catch at all. Then it just slips back out. Like the gears have moved.

 

I got engrossed in the forum that you recommended, the one posted by Foreman.  It looks very complete. I do not have many of the tools he used. You all talked about parts, tools and techniques that I will have to learn about before I dive in. What is the detent? What are poppers?

 

I purchased the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers) a last year and looked at it. I wanted to see a quick fix for slippage. When I did not see it right off, I turned here. I will rely on it extensively when I start to get into the problem. I really wanted it to be something like and easy adjustment. But it looks like I am in for a new learning experience.

 

Right off from looking at the material, I suspect the springs that hold the shifting rods in place. If one of them broke, that may be it. Also, if there is a screw or something that holds the gears in place on the shaft, that may have come loose allowing then to move without the shifter lever being effected. They may just be sliding on the rod.

 

Why does it always have to be free time and money – the two things I have so little of.  

 

Kevin

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Thanks for your interest in the CJ rebuilder's book, it will provide considerable guidance as you delve into this problem with the Dana 300, Kevin.  I'm sorry the fix isn't simple, but we do depend upon the transfer case in the middle of nowhere, and at least you're not sending a cell phone distress message from the backcountry. 

 

The Dana 300, with its helically cut gears, is the best "stock" transfer case Jeep ever offered in a light utility 4x4 model.  Iron cased and gear drive, you're light years ahead once you rebuild this unit.  Let's cross fingers that the needed parts will not stack up.  If the unit was not terribly noisy, and if the gear clash did not cause added damage, you may find that most hard parts are reusable.

 

The springs, detents and poppets are the interlocking mechanism between the shift rails.  They help hold or "detent" each gear position and also prevent grabbing two gears at one time as the shifter moves. 

 

Between my book and Forman's contribution at the forum, you should have bases covered.  We're here for any additional questions or as sounding boards!

 

Moses

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Before it was replaced my D300 used to consistently pop out of low range.  scary when on steep downhill engine braking.  The quick fix was to bungee the lever fwd and that worked great.  Understand u have a different issue.  or maybe when in 2H bungee the lever to the pass door area adding some side load?

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  • 2 months later...

I just read over this thread and realized I never documented what brought it to closure. I found a Dana 300 at a junkyard. It was from a 1984 CJ-7 that was in a traffic accident. So many of the transfer cases I looked at on line were stand alone so it would go to reason that they were for sale because they had been replaced. I could only hope the replacement was for an upgrade and not due to damage. When I found the one in the junkyard, they told me it had been there for years and no one had ever asked for one. They are a reputable yard so I purchased it.

 

The install was a piece of cake. Out with the old and in with the new.

 

I am planning to rebuild the old one when I have time. I was all geared up for it when the used one came around. I am still looking forward to the experience. But now I can do it at my pace with no pressure.

 

I have been wheeling a few times and it is working great. :D

 

Kevin

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