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  3. Carlosa...Glad you got results. The aftermarket sensor issue is epidemic. Apparently, the voltage and ohms parameters are wrong. It's likely that suppliers are cataloging parts to meet a variety of vehicle/engine applications, creating this kind of trouble. I'm especially leery of X-brands from offshore, though its not necessarily the foreign manufacturers' fault as much as the attempt to make these parts fit a wider range of applications. Summing it up as shared earlier, I cross the OEM part to the OEM suppliers' part number and get the OE equivalent part: I buy Bosch, NTK and other major brands if pricing is better than the Mopar labeled part. During the Great Recession, even classically valued brands like AC/Delco went down in both quality and fitment accuracy. When otherwise not available, buy OEM Jeep/Mopar parts. Moses
  4. BadDriver4x4...Chrysler product or not, sounds like rust has taken its toll on this Liberty KJ. There was a time when the Rust Belt was limited to the Midwest, but the insidious use of salt and brine on winter roads has spread across the country. Our home State of Nevada, one of the driest and least likely states in the country to see rust develop on a vehicle, is now headed into the abyss. Highways, roads and the Interstates are getting a thorough saturation with brine before each winter storm, and the brine becomes live and active when rain, sleet or snow arrive. In the past few decades, vehicle manufacturers have used more galvanized and niche metals or plastics for rust resistance, but they are hardly a match for salt brine and crystals. We need to press for the elimination of oxidizing corrosives on winter highways. As ingenious as chemical manufacturers can be, there must be cost-effective ways to combat ice and snow on highways without using rust-causing agents. As for Chrysler, some of their vehicles are less evil than the competition. No better way to put it. Our 2005 Dodge Ram/Cummins 3500 4x4 (purchased new) has many virtues along with its share of engineering shortfalls. On the downside, I have dealt with the weaknesses of the 48RE automatic transmission, the power steering gear and the driveshafts. At some point soon, I will remove the entire dash assembly to fix the flaps and actuator mechanisms in the HVAC assembly. The telltale lack of floor-directed heat is just one sign that the plastic HVAC parts are crumbling. This problem is epidemic...Really? Compared to competitive brands, we're "better off". Were this a G.M. or Ford diesel pickup built that same year, I could be facing major, chronic engine troubles. The Ford 6.0L diesel is an utter disaster. The G.M. Duramax is no panacea. Next to our Cummins 5.9L or a 6.7L, I'm the winner. I also like the front beam axle of the Ram—AAM's 9.25". I've only recently replaced the two unit hub bearings at 163K miles. Though some Ram 4x4 owners have dealt with ball-joint and steering linkage trouble, these systems are still intact on our truck. I understand your point, though I'll take it a step further. People either want or have been coerced and mandated into wanting much more car-like "content" on light trucks and SUVs. They expect car-like ease of operation and trinkets. This ultimate leads to trouble and expensive repairs. The focus of this magazine and its forums is consumer support, and I would be quick to note that we would all be better off, at least from a vehicle maintenance, service access and long term cost standpoint, with 1970s and to some degree 1980s 4x4 technology. If you want to control the "climate" in your pickup truck or SUV with just a single knob, you may get to remove the massive dash assembly to access and fix the HVAC. Our 2005 Ram and 1999 XJ Cherokee are each "experiments". If they do not deliver well or fall short in the ease of repair realm, they will be our last late model vehicles. As a point of interest, the models that have served us best in the past were 1971-91 beam front axle G.M. 4x4s, which include the K10/1500, the K20/2500 and K5 SUVs. These were non-IFS, conventional pickup, Suburban and Blazer/Jimmy trucks that held up remarkably well and could be readily serviced when necessary—which wasn't too often or "out of the blue" like the Ram's plastic heater/AC blending, ventilation and re-circulation flaps just waiting to fail. My favorite 4x4 picks of the G.M. bunch were the 1971-79 models, followed by 1980-86 pickups and the Suburbans or Blazers through 1991. For Ford aficionados, I'd stick to the 1976-79 F-series 4x4s. In the future, we might find ourselves driving a restored 1987-91 Suburban 3/4-ton 4x4, a '71-'86 Chevy/GMC SWB 1/2-ton 4x4 or a '71-'86 3/4-ton G.M. 4x4 pickup. We'll see how much humor I have left after removing the entire dash assembly to upgrade the plastic and nylon HVAC flaps on our Ram. Moses
  5. Nelnoc...When you changed the distributor, did you restore its phase/indexing with the camshaft? There is a distinct method for setting up the distributor on your 1995 2.5L MPI engine: Jeep 2.5L MPI Distributor R&R.pdf The distributor/rotor position, crankshaft position sensor and MAP must be synchronized. Otherwise, spark timing will be off. In your case, a timing error could be glaring when MAP applies. Begin the process by setting #1 piston on TDC of the compression stroke. This has both valves closed and the crank position sensor indexed properly. Follow the attached Mopar PDF guidelines, using the "Engine Rotated After Removal" instructions. Properly index the distributor and rotor with #1 piston at TDC. You can index the oil pump drive shaft if necessary by rotating the drive slot with a large screwdriver. Moses
  6. Hi Moses, Random misfire issue may be solved Sorry for my long absence, i`ve been very busy with work and parked the Jeep for the summer - I ran out of time to tinker with it and was afraid I might be hurting it even more. Your quoted post above had me thinking for a long time about the quality of the CPS. I had a premium Napa sensor in the Jeep after I pulled the transmission and fixed the flywheel bolts. This video came up recently, so I added it to my offline viewing list and watched it during an international flight. When I landed I decided to just take a risk and change a part... I ordered a new Mopar OEM sensor off of ebay. As far as I can tell it is identical to the Napa premium sensor, both are made in Mexico and both have the same general feel and quality. I put the new sensor in, took my time getting it snugged down tight against the spacer, and took it for a drive. Its now been 5 days of hard driving in first and second gear to keep the RPM's up, and I have had no re-occurrence of the random misfire codes. I have tried duplicating every scenario that previously would be a flashing light within seconds, and cannot. Engine braking down the hills here in the rain is much safer than riding the brakes on this Jeep and that alone is a bonus. Now I have a transmission issue, and some free time .. so i`d like to get back into some of the other posts we talked about. I may also try to build some sort of test rig to test and understand what goes wrong in these sensors, since it is a widespread problem. Otherwise, maybe I should invest in (hoard) Mopar sensors for the future.
  7. Found a junk yard fix to the seatbelt alarm issue. Grabbed a belt buckle clasp and modified it to fit. No noise, and belts are still 100% safe. Too bad that didn't stop the need for complete brake work with e-brake rebuild, steering rack, new muffler and final exhaust pipe replacement. (Muffler was good except for the part leading to the rusted off pipe.Couldn't be saved economically.) I'm sure there is something else major I'm forgetting. The most recent "repair" was a new transmission mount and U-joint. If it weren't for the fact that it's the only inspected and running vehicle at our disposal right now I wouldn't have done that much more work on it. The rocker panels are about gone past the center of the vehicle, and rust in other areas came on quickly. The rear suspension is also shot. (Uninspectable in Vermont without $1000.00s worth of repair, and not worth that.) I doubt I'm the only one to have these problems with a 12 year old Jeep by Chrysler, but it has convinced me that I will NEVER buy another Chrysler product EVER again. It seems as though they all die on me way too soon. I'll stick to Willy's and AMC era Jeeps from now on. Looking for a newer SUV now.
  8. Last week
  9. Quenching oil

    Budi...I did some quick research and found a paper/abstract that is helpful for your question. See this article and the conclusions: https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-3-642-03653-8_268 Let me know if this answers your concern. Moses
  10. MomoJeep...Thanks for the link on beam cutoff, many will benefit. I like science! Please keep us informed on your findings with these H4 lights. I'm very curious. They sound traditional and proven. The Jeep CJ's single lamps are a very good test...Hella has great products. Moses
  11. The vacuum has been checked and moved between its port and another without changing the way the engine runs. The distributor was changed to correct shaft play Along with new plug wires. Well Moses I just realized that my last message wasn’t sent. I have replaced everything but the speed sensor the intake air temp sensor which tests ok. The crankshaft position sensor. The only code it is or has been throwing is the vacuum on the map being unhooked to get the engine to run. With vacuum it is 10 degrees out of time and won’t start warm. with no vacuum it is at 0 degrees and starts and runs strong. We are going to check the wiring harness to see what it is doing. Just a rundown of parts replaced. Distributor, cam shaft sensor, coolant sensor, o2 sensor, map sensorX2, ECM, throttle position sensor, idle air motor,
  12. With it sitting in the dive way (its slanted) the hard top looks almost level. Sitting in it also looks like its off. So I think I got a hold of the wrong springs
  13. Hello all, my Name is Budi from Indonesia. i am new in Metal Heat treat field. i need some help from this forum regarding Oil Quenching. is there any way to reduces high TAN at quenching oil? thank you for the help.
  14. Hello all, my Name is Budi from Indonesia. i am new in Metal Heat treat field. i need some help from this forum regarding Oil Quenching. is there any way to reduces high TAN at quenching oil? thank you for the help.
  15. Moses, thanks for your response. I find this helpful when considering beam cutoff: https://www.retrofitlab.com/blog/dot-vs-ece-beam-pattern/ And this makes me lean toward the European style. I think my plan now is to try some H4 European, http://www.rallylights.com/hella-super-7-round-h4-for-2-headlamp-systems-each-with-city-light-hl39519.html and see how I like them. I think I will wait for the LED's to get better/cheaper. I'd like (a) LED's that defrost (b) better light pattern (smoother, a bit more diffuse), and better price. Anyone, please chime in!?!
  16. If you have lift springs, when you look at your Jeep from the side, the frame and body will look higher than stock. Let us know what you find...
  17. This does sound like no pump suction, which on an E4OD could be the internal oil pump screen—either restricted or blocked. Accessing the oil pump screen (not the service replacement filter) requires the equivalent of a rebuild on the E4OD transmission. Before taking it that far, do a test gauge pressure check of line pressure and other external pressure port tests. Port tests are a quick and reliable way to narrow down a shift or overall performance issue. Since you note elsewhere that the transmission does not slip (great!), line pressure and pressure tests in each gear mode would be valuable, help narrow down the problem and preserve the transmission.
  18. I would do a transmission control module scan for trouble codes. If you read through our extensive discussion of E4OD troubles, spread over several topics, there are a variety of electronic and shift control prospects. Do not spend good money on guesswork parts replacement. An ECM/TCM scan can often turn up a single issue that can be readily fixed. No slippage is a very good thing! It's possible you have caught the problem before hard transmission parts damage. Sounds like shift signals are involved in the solution. A guess? I would check the shift module and wires or the shift shaft. Look for trouble codes. Moses
  19. Superwinch...When any automatic transmission slips this much and has this amount of friction material in the pan, its lifespan is marked. One look at the clutch pack frictions and the thin band material close-up, it's apparent that slippage of any kind will quickly cause transmission failure. Your buy some time fluid and filter change, including the long overdue band adjustment, did gain some time. In my experience, you will find a large amount of additional friction material in the pan after 7,000 miles of additional driving. If there is slip between 1st and 2nd gear during the upshift, this is likely a band and clutch pack issue. Worn clutch frictions also reduce the apply pressure on the clutch packs, so slip is more likely. You might check the throttle pressure setting, the throttle valve adjustment or cable adjustment. You can also invest in a test pressure gauge and follow the factory pressure checks for line pressure and the hydraulic pressure in each gear. Low pressure will cause slip. This late point in the wear pattern, I would plan on rebuilding the transmission. This is a basic Chrysler 904/999 or 30RH/32RH rebuild. Whether you sublet the work or attempt the build on your own, this is a basic unit without complications or expensive parts. If you catch the wear at the right point, you can reduce the need for hard parts. If this were my transmission, I'd have my workbench clear and ready for a rebuild project. Be sure to install a new or rebuilt torque converter. It's assumed that debris has contaminated the entire transmission unit. Be certain to have the transmission cooler flushed at the same time. The Jeep looks very clean and worth a transmission rebuild. At 177K miles, a 32RH rebuild would be expected. Moses
  20. Its supposed to be stock height. I'll have to give the parts people a call on why I ended up with a lift kit instead. That does make alot more sense why suddenly the drive shaft length has changed
  21. Shotgun Jimmy...You'll need to compare part numbers for the two steering columns, steering shafts, etc. Or at least compare an I-H donor vehicle's steering column. I'm not clear about the G.M. parts interchangeability with your 1210 front axle. G.M. 3/4-ton front axles have 8-lug wheels and disc brakes, but you need to confirm the fit of the knuckles, steering linkage and all other parts. The '74-'76 I-H 200 series 4x4 trucks would likely be closer in design to your 1973 1210. Compare '74-up 200 series 4x4 components to your chassis. Part numbers are not the same as G.M., although you could compare G.M. axles, their track width, brake caliper/rotor style, brake master cylinder, combination valve and so forth. 200 series I-H 4x4 front disc brake assemblies might be a better choice, perhaps a complete front axle swap from a 200 series 4x4. You'll need a master cylinder for disc front brakes/drum rear. The combination valve is also different between 4-wheel drum and disc front/drum rear brakes. Moses
  22. Nelnoc...There's no way to turn off the PCM's MAP function. It's possible that the PCM has either a poor connection or defect. When you add the MAP signal, the engine performance goes haywire, right? The MAP is also affected by the throttle position sensor (TPS) and the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Defects at either of these devices can impact MAP functions. TPS sensors do wear out. Test the TPS and the VSS. There is, of course, a possibility that the MAP sensor is defective or even the PCM. Do not throw money at these devices before ruling out a TPS switch defect. If that doesn't do it, I would pursue a connection issue. Disconnect the 60-way connector at the PCM. Look for debris, corrosion or any "black" coating, which is oxidation or corrosion. Use a spray electrical cleaner and fine ScotchBrite pad, not anything abrasive (no scrapers, screw drivers or knives!), to remove oxidation and debris. Plug the connector back into the PCM. Moses
  23. This is the normal orientation of the springs, big eye facing the front. The lower shackle bolt location is close to stock, this should not create much change in vehicle height. Compare the spring center bolt location with the stock springs. The bolt location determines where the axle sets. These do look like aftermarket "lift springs" which would drop the axle position and raise the chassis height. How much lift is this? Arched springs pull the driveshaft rearward. This is why the driveshaft length must change with anything beyond a very mild chassis lift.
  24. My 88 bronco 2 is having the same issues aND the fluid, filter and modulator valve were changed. Drove fine for a Lil while now back to square one. Cranks up fine but will not engage in any gear
  25. 1988 ford bronco 2 4x4. Out of nowhere truck will not engage move after cruising 40-50. Replaced filter with new fluid and modulator valve and drove fine for few weeks before having same issue. No slipping or metal chunks when t fluid changed. Please help!
  26. I bought this 1997 TJ with 168 thousand miles on it. The trans was slipping pretty badly probably cause it has never been serviced. I can imagine the cost of doing that cause of having to pull the shield. Well I pulled the shield and took down the pan. inside was like mud with friction material on the bottom. I changed the filter and put a bigger pan that hold 2 more qts of fluid and changed the fluid a couple of more times not doing a complete flush. I also adjusted the bands to specs. Now when I start off theres a very short stretch then it shifts to the next gear. I think I have a problem from 1st to second because when it finally shifts to second it goes to third with no problem. Ive been soft shoeing it for 9,000 miles now and have put 7,000 mi since the last oil and filter change. My question is, what band adjustment should I be concentrating on, the one in the pan or the one by the bell housing? Im saving my money to get the trans rebuilt because I want to drive without having my mind on this all the time. Should I try another filter and oil and adjustment before I drop 1800$ on a rebuild? The Jeep is def worth it. No body or chassis rot and it runs great. any input on what I should do would be appreciated..
  27. Hi, Moses. Right now I have decided to go w/ power steering & am searching salvage yards online to find a steering column, power steering pump bracket & power steering box for the 1210. I saw your article here on the Saginaw rotary valve integral steering gear box (great article, by the way), so I am looking to get one & rebuild it (as it probably will...) From what i understand, the manual steering gear steering column/ shaft is not compatible w/ the power steering gearbox? Is this correct? This truck also has a Dana 44 front axle w/ open knuckles & drum brakes. I would like to change it over to front disc brakes, however I'm still trying to figure out if 3/4 ton Chevy Dana 44 disc brake open knuckle front axle parts will swap over? From what I understand, the '73 Dana 44 model year axle was when they switched over to a new design w/ heavier U joints & spindles than the earlier 44's ('68-'72); and that they used the improved design from '73 up until 1979 in the Chevy 3/4 ton trucks? Would that be the same axle as my open knuckle '73 Dana 44 axle on my 1210? Thanx, J.D.
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