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  2. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    In speaking with Moser, per their instruction, the 0.020 - 0.080" stickout and the resulting preload imparted by the brake backing plate is intentional. I have plenty of experience with tapered bearings and I know how preload is supposed to work. This ring preloads the roller cage and the outer race. As I read their install sheet the thicker side of the inner race (roller taper) should be pointing toward the center of the axle. This seems counter intuitive to preloading the bearing. It should have opposing force directed through both races. The roller cage should never have any loading. Guess I'll just do what they tell me. I'll need to find a replacement SKF BR9 as I broke the first one.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Ian...An AMC/Jeep at its righthand drive best! Spicer 20 transfer case and T-14? 232 or 258 six? Let us know what you discover. Fun to see the "export" components that otherwise only come up in U.S. Mopar parts manuals! Moses
  5. 57 willys pick up another project

    Wow, Ian, what a bizarre mix of components and even body panels! Is this "original" or a cobble of parts? What's the history? What were the original pieces, how much of this is the current parts? The front and rear axles look unique, the front with the notch in the housing, the rear is a drop-in center section type. All very interesting, what was the powertrain, the TC looks Model 18 Spicer/Jeep. You find the most unusual "Jeep" vehicles! Moses
  6. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Can you photograph and post a picture of the "ring"? I'd like to see it and make an educated guess about its purpose and/or "safety" need. This is not the bearing retaining lock ring, right? Moses
  7. Hi Moses picked this little cj5 up this weekend as well its been neglected so the floors are pretty much gone but its sound enough to give it another lease on life so a bit of rust work & a few parts (new fenders) some wiring etc havent checked the engine or driveline yet but will sort the body first
  8. Hi Moses ive done it again gone & made more work for myself but this pick up will be great when its restored im not sure what the diffs are though not sure i theyre a mod or whether these were assembled here with different running gear i do know they did that with the cj6 (combat 6) it had a ford 6 cyl & borg warner running gear i will get better pics once i start stripping it down & clean things up its got some rust the roof being the worst the rest isnt too bad that tub on the back is junk ill build something that will look the part cheers ian
  9. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    After pondering the situation I came to the conclusion that the instructions left out the need to use OE shims between the axle housing and the backing plate, to take up the spec'ed .02 - .08 bearing stick out. Removing the odd ring from the bearing will result in the bearing cage getting hung up on the backing plate. Couldn't see that last night. I need to stop going this stuff in the dark. Quite obviously whoever wrote the instructions didn't know that OE setup does not use shims on the right side of the axle. Looks like I need to redo the right side and replace that bearing..
  10. Last week
  11. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    After re-reading what I wrote, without knowing what I was describing, it sounds a bit like gibberish. A pdf of their instructions. http://www.moserengineering.com/moser/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/JeepInstructions.pdf Apparently the second hub also spun. It is so trashed that mu little press wouldn't budge the hub. I had to torch the axle to retrieve the brake backing plate. I believe the new axle install problem is tight splines. The only locker Moser warns of is the factory locker as it uses a different carrier. I have a Spartan which fit in the standard carrier. I would assume that it should not be a problem. I test fit the second axle and it too is tight in the locker spline engagement. The axle splines are not tapered so again assume just snug. I'll be carefully checking the bearing, housing and backing plate interface. I really suspect that the ring on the bearing is meant to be removed, even though their instructions don't say to do so. This time i'll silicon the seal end plate and lightly bolt it to the backing plate before pressing the bearing on the axle. Went and did some measuring. OD of the axle bearing is 2.535, ID of that odd ring on the bearing is 2.25. ID of the brake backing plate is 2.255, so there you go. I would assume the ring should be removed before pressing. Removing it will leave a step in the bearing to act as a retaining feature.
  12. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Rinky Dink...The hub loosening issue is not unusual. AMC recommended installing a new hub each time one was removed from an axle shaft to assure a "fresh" spline cut. I've marked hubs before removal and had success reinstalling them in the exact same position then setting the shaft nut to the factory specification: The tension/set for these hubs is not a torque setting (although the start-up setting is 250 ft.lbs. minimum); the right tension is the stickout length of the axle shaft outer end, measured from the outer edge of the hub. I have this stickout dimension if anyone needs it, suffice to say I've set these two-piece axle shaft/hubs up by applying the force from my floor jack handle to a 3/4" breaker bar and 6-point socket to achieve the factory stickout length. My best air impact wrench was totally unable to reach this level of torque. For those unaware, the OEM hubs on these AMC 20/Jeep CJ axles have no machined splines. They are cast blank and get their "splines" from the serrated teeth "splines" machined into the factory axle shaft tapers. This demands scary levels of force to cut these splines and secure the hub properly. It's very common for installers not to take the torque to this level, and especially with oversized tires, a "spinout" of the axle shaft within the hub is likely. Let us know how this turns out...If you wind up contacting Moser, I'm curious how they describe the "retention" ring. Something sounds amiss. Did you compare axle shaft lengths from the bearing inner side of the axle shafts (where the bearings seat) to the locker spline ends at each side? The axle shaft lengths are different between OE open and limited slip differentials. Could that be the issue? Do you have the OE locker? Shafts placed correctly right to left? Is the locker spacer block correct for this application, differential and axle shaft lengths? Moses
  13. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Ok, Beat on the axle with the dead blow a bit more. Got it in to the point where I could fit the 4 retaining bolts. Snugged them up and the axle locks up. Tried whacking it some more and nothing loosened. Backed off the bolt tension and the axle loosened up again. Whacked it some more and re-tightened the bolts. Could tell the bearing was moving. Finally got all the bolts tightened, gave it a few more whacks on the axle and it turns free with no end play. Certainly doesn't seem like the right way to do this.
  14. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Hello Moses, After doing the rebuild on my M-20, I managed to spin a hub while driving it around on the street. I never liked 2 piece axles so this was a good reason to go single piece. Based on their reputation, I bought a set of the Moser Engineering axles. Figured it would be a straight forward swap. All I can say is their instructions leave a whole lot to be desired. Looking at their instruction page, #4, this axle bearing stuck out 0.120." Their instruction says to grind the spacer ring to get the desired protrusion. They don't state where to grind to get this correct stick out. The AMC housing I.D. has a series of steps. Perhaps I was over thinking the concept but I decided to try making a taper on the O.D. of the seal end of the spacer ring. That didn't have much effect so I took some off the seal end. Not much change. Ended up taking it off the bearing end and got the bearing seating @0.08 so it was within spec. Seems like a lame way to do something. Were AMC axle housings made that inaccurately? On to the next adventure.. Pressing the bearing on the axle. Installed the retainer, backing plates, bearing and press ring using a manual 12 T press. Pushed the bearing and ring until I felt a increase in the resistance. Slide the axle into the housing and it is obvious the bearing is not seated as the axle is sitting way too far out of the housing. The SKF 331579B bearing ID is 1.3775, the axle has a stepped bearing surface 1.378 / 1.380. I repressed it until the bearing was obviously stopped. On installing the axle, I discovered that the bearing OD is greater than the backing plate's ID. The bearing has an odd "retention ring" on it that seems to hold the bearing race halves together. Without removing this ring, the backing plate would sit proud of the housing by 0.80." That can't be correct. Without pressing off the bearing, I managed to flex this ring to the point where it broke and the backing plate would now sit flush with the axle housing. This leaves you with very little room to apply the sealer but it can be done. At this point I have to assume the bearing is located correctly on the axle. I believe I am having issues with the axle seating in the locker splines. It feels quite tight and the bearing is still 3/8 - 1/2" away from seating in the housing. I have given the axle some whacks with the dead blow and that seems to have made it tighter in the splines, to the point when I may need a puller to remove it. I wonder if the new locker splines got damaged by the old axle or if it is just a tight fit. Called Moser for direction but they are closed for the weekend. Seems nothing is ever easy.
  15. YZ250 Woods Weapon Build

    The losses this summer have been astounding: Montana, California, throughout the Northwest, including the Columbia Gorge. When this fire season ends, you'll have that long overdue break and decompression time. Keep me posted, there may be room for some riding... Thanks for your public service and dedication to protecting our lands! Moses
  16. Thanks for updating and sharing, Rusty...I learned this lesson with a Brand-X TPS and oxygen sensor on my 4.0L XJ engine. Each did not perform well, the off-shore TPS from a popular high-volume auto parts chain store actually failed, the O2 sensor caused a mysterious engine idle issue. I'm once again a staunch advocate of OEM spec parts. Avoid the generic pieces that fit a variety of applications and may be adequate if your application happens to be the benchmark for the part. You're an electronics pro and can appreciate this. One solution is to buy OEM supplier parts. An example is that NTK supplied Chrysler with the OEM O2 sensor on my '99 XJ Cherokee 4.0L. I took the NTK number from the OE sensor and simply replaced Brand-X with an NTK unit of the right part number. I sourced the best price on the NTK sensor strictly by its part number. Win, win. Moses
  17. Glad this is working, MomoJeep. As for trailer brakes, the two kinds common for a trailer in this weight would be a surge (hydraulic, tongue mounted like the U-Haul trailers use) or an electrical/electronic controller with a seven-pin connection. The controller mounts at the dash. You can adjust most electronic controllers for light pressure or even off when the trailer is empty. The weight (gross) is not considerable, and presumably this is a single axle trailer in that weight range? An electronic controller installed and adjusted properly would likely serve best. The surge brake requires more adjustment effort, and it cannot be readjusted from the driver's seat...Do you know what capacity or size brakes are now on the trailer? This trailer does have factory brakes at the axle? Moses
  18. YZ250 Woods Weapon Build

    Still no time to ride the bike. The fires have grown to a combined 50,000+ acres and it'll be snowing before I'm done. So much for a summer full of riding. This picture is from the top of Chinook Pass at the Mt Rainier NP entrance looking East.
  19. Just wanted to close this thread out with the resolution so others can hopefully benefit. The owner had purchased a new but cheap Crank Position Sensor as the symptoms pointed to the CPS. That sensor was checked and was just slightly low on the resistance check, and seemed to be putting out ~0.5 VAC when cranking. After miles of wire tracing, and epic growling and gnashing of teeth, another, higher quality CPS was installed, and the Wrangler started up and ran. Moral of the story- don't trust the cheapest part in the list...
  20. Earlier
  21. At the 4WD Mechanix Magazine site, you will find my article and series of how-to videos on forming brake tube flares. The information below is excerpted from that URL page. To see the entire article and HD videos on how to form tubing flares, visit: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/video-series-how-to-flare-automotive-brake-tube-fuel-lines-and-cooler-tubing/ Brake rubber parts are vulnerable to damage, wear and deterioration. One of the quickest ways to cause brake rubber parts failure is exposure to petroleum or mineral base solvents, oils or compounds—including the popular products shown at left. The time honored and safe substance for cleaning brake parts is denatured alcohol. Always dry parts thoroughly before assembly…Periodic brake fluid changes can be done with a vacuum bleeder at the wheel cylinders and calipers, using the correct and fresh brake fluid. Brake service work on cylinders and calipers will benefit from a castor base grease like Millers Red Rubber Grease. Assembly of hydraulic cylinders and calipers can benefit from Raybestos BAF-12 Brake Cylinder Assembly Fluid. Both of these products are harmless to brake rubber parts and recommended for the installation of caliper piston seals or brake wheel cylinder cups. Rubber/Chemical Compatibility, Periodic Brake Fluid Changes and Choosing a Brake Fluid Always use the brake fluid type recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are compatible glycol-based brake fluids. (Use the recommended type, DOT 3 and DOT 4 are often combined ratings.) Never mix DOT 5 silicone brake fluid with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1. The difference between DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 is the boiling point, typically the higher the number, the higher the boiling point. (Some DOT 4 racing brake fluids would be an exception, they have a very high boiling point.) DOT 5.1 and DOT 5 Silicone have boiling points nearly the same but these fluids are not interchangeable, and they are not compatible. If your system has recommended DOT 3 or DOT 4, adding or changing to a DOT 5.1 glycol based fluid is acceptable. DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid can only be used by itself in a system completely free of glycol-based brake fluid. At left is a contemporary Castrol brake fluid previously labeled DOT 4 GT/LMA. The “LMA” stands for “Low Moisture Absorption”. This LMA feature is desirable and allows consumers to use a DOT 4 glycol base fluid with more resistance to moisture. (Moisture lowers the boiling point of brake fluid and causes system corrosion.) DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid (shown at right) is hydrophopic—it will not absorb water. Silicone brake fluid requires a system that is completely purged of all glycol based fluid and moisture before filling with DOT 5. If there is previous moisture present, the DOT 5 silicone brake fluid will not absorb the moisture; instead, the moisture will form hazardous bubbles if the fluid reaches the moisture’s boiling temperature. Never mix these fluid types. For more details on DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid characteristics, visit the Clearco Products page at: http://www.clearcoproducts.com/dot5-brake-fluid.html. Warning: Never use a mineral oil or petroleum product in a brake system designed for a castor oil/alcohol brake fluid (DOT 2), glycol-base brake fluid (DOT 3, 4 or 5.1) or a silicone type brake fluid (DOT 5). Mineral and petroleum products can cause rubber to swell and fail…Gasoline or diesel fuel, WD40 or any other petroleum based product or solvent should never be used for cleaning or freeing up brake system parts that contain rubber. Also note that brake parts cleaners often are intended for metal parts like brake backing plates and hardware—not for use within the cylinders or around any of the rubber seals! Read labels carefully…There are isolated vehicle brake systems (exotic European models like some Citroen and Rolls-Royce cars) that specify the use of a special mineral oil brake fluid. Always use the brake fluid type that the vehicle manufacturer recommends for a specific make, model and year vehicle. On modern vehicles, the master cylinder cap often has an inscription that states the recommended brake fluid…If a product’s chemical compatibility with rubber is questionable, see the Mykin chart at: http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart. Identify the rubber type and recommended brake fluid type when working on brake systems. Traditional brake seal and cup rubber is now being replaced by EPDM and other synthetic rubber materials. Vintage vehicles with pre-DOT 3 fluid use a DOT 2 or equivalent brake fluid that is typically castor oil (vegetable base, not mineral) and alcohol. This is why denatured alcohol is discussed in older shop manuals as a suitable “flushing” fluid for the brake system. The castor oil will not harm rubber and neither will alcohol. However, if denatured alcohol is used as a flushing agent, the lines and cylinders must be allowed to dry completely before replacing all rubber parts and replenishing the system with fresh brake fluid. Drying can be sped up with the use of compressed air if the air is filtered and does not contain moisture. Flushing with denatured alcohol is only done when all rubber seals are renewed after the flush and drying of the lines and cylinders. If the cylinders are in good condition and rubber is known to be okay, leave them alone; simply exchange the brake fluid with fresh brake fluid. Brake fluid changes get sorely neglected in the modern era, which means that corrosive moisture, a declining boiling point of fluid and brake fade can be an issue with hydraulic brake systems. It is relatively simple to at least vacuum bleed the brake system periodically at the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder valves. Drawing fresh fluid through the system, from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders or calipers, can at least remove the old hygroscopic (moisture absorbing) fluid and any debris. Arguably, vacuum bleeding is more effective than power bleeding for purging contaminants from a hydraulic brake system. Power bleeders apply pressure at the master cylinder, which can push debris to the edges of the wheel cylinders or calipers. Vacuum bleeding draws old fluid through the bleeder valves and will suck out debris from within the cylinders or calipers. If the cylinders remain assembled, vacuum bleeding will likely do a better job. Footnote: In the heyday of under-floorboard master cylinders, hydraulic brake system flushing annually was commonly recommended along with the replacement of brake cylinder rubber parts. Vented master cylinders were notorious for absorbing atmospheric moisture, dirt and even road surface water. DOT 2, DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 (not to be confused with DOT 5 Silicone) brake fluids are all hygroscopic: They absorb water/moisture at the rate of at least 3% volume per year in the average climate and under normal conditions. A passenger car or 4x4 vehicle with the master cylinder mounted to the vehicle's frame beneath the floorboard, like the vintage Jeep models and WWII to early Vietnam era military trucks, is highly susceptible to drawing moisture through the vented master cylinder cap, especially during stream fording or when the vehicle is stalled in body sill depth water! Before the use of rubber bellows on master cylinder cover gaskets and other moisture barrier methods at the master cylinder cap, a periodic brake fluid change and hydraulic brake cylinder rubber parts replacement was considered an annual service task. EIS master and wheel cylinder rebuilding kits were popular service parts in the vintage vehicle era. Vehicle manufacturers recommended an annual brake system flush and rubber parts replacement. See the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended fluid change intervals, usually one to two years on modern vehicles that use glycol-based (DOT 3, 4 or 5.1) brake fluid. This kit (photo courtesy of a seller’s eBay ad) contains the typical service parts for an annual flush and rebuild of wheel cylinders on a 1930s to 1966 U.S. vehicle equipped with a vented-to-atmosphere, single circuit master cylinder. Fluid quickly became moisture and debris contaminated, especially on earlier vehicles with the master cylinder exposed beneath the body! Dusty roads and stream crossings were highly abusive to brake fluid, iron hydraulic cylinders and rubber parts. For a better understanding of rubber types and their chemical sensitivity, see the Mykin Chemical website’s “Rubber Chemical Resistance” chart: http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart. To better understand modern brake fluid characteristics and specifications, see this well written piece by Steve Ruiz at the Centric/StopTech site: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid
  22. Hi Moses, So I have the 4.0L head on the 258 block, with the Mopar/Hesco MPI kit installed. I love it, except for the vapor lock problem, and that the gas mileage still seems poor (14.5mpg) MILEAGE AND HEAT I experience vapor lock after long drives on hot days and/or going up mountains. There is a pressure and return line running up the driver side, where the exhaust is also located. External fuel pump mount near the exhaust pipe on drivers side of the rear cross member, filter also on cross member in center of vehicle. I tried wrapping the exhaust from manifold, over cat conv and muffler (and put a heat shield fabric tube over the fuel lines from firewall to injector rail). This did not fix the problem at all. However, the gas mileage jumped up to 16-17mpg! Why do you think this happened? I am guessing that since the air intake sits right about the exhaust, cooler air into the engine is more efficient since it can expand more in combustion than hot air? I also heard something about "Scavenging" with hotter (insulated) exhaust, but I don't understand that.. Why do you think the mileage got better? Any tradeoffs to keeping it this way (exhaust wrapped)? VAPOR LOCK Then with the vapor lock, there are a few ways to go, and I'm not sure which to try: (1) Move fuel lines to passenger side, route under radiator and back up to injector rail. However, I've read some people have this set-up and still experience vapor lock. Some speculate because of the radiator, but I'm guessing it's the low pressure line before the pump. (2) Switch to using a regulator near tank, instead of in the fuel rail. Hesco sells parts for this. The advantage is there will be no return line. I heard that gas vaporizes much easier at low pressures, but I'm really not sure if vaporized / aerated fuel returning to the tank is the problem? This could be combined with (1) above to make things easier and cleaner. http://www.hesco.us/products/7902/40l-conversion-parts/313496/hes409606-1-regulator-kit#.WbbvWmeWzIV (3a) Novak sells an in-tank pump. I like this idea because currently fuel travels across the rear xmember from passenger to driver side at low pressure (the external pump is on the drivers side). I am suspicious that this low pressure run before the pump is where the vapor lock might be happening. The in-tank pump would eliminate this. (3b) I believe I'd also still have the option of locating the regulator in the rear and running a single line up to the engine (and could also be on the passenger side?) https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/fuel-system/cj-fuel-module The drawback I'm concerned about is that I do a lot of outdoor adventure road trips and remote backcountry travel. I carry a spare external fuel pump. If the in-tank pump fails, wouldn't this be much harder to replace on the trial? Do you think a spare external pump could still be installed inline if the in-tank pump failed to get me home? Or would the failed in-tnnk pump prevent fuel from flowing? So, which option do you think makes the most sense? (1), (1) & (2) Combined? or (3a) or (3b) Thanks!
  23. Thanks for all your help. I just did a long road trip in my Scrambler, 3 people and lots of camping/adventure gear. Although I still wish it could "stop on a dime" the way little economy cars do, the brakes performed well in a variety of conditions. My next upgrade will be hi-performance slotted (not through) front disks and composite pads for maximum stopping power. About trailer brakes, what would you advise for a 16' boat trailer (gross weight 1800-2000lbs)?
  24. AMC 20 shimming issue

    Tgrif11...Sorry you're have this kind of issue. Neither bearing cup should set this far into the housing tubing at either side, as this would create extreme axle shaft end play, nearly 3/8ths of an inch! Since the control factor is the length of the axle shafts, and presuming that you have a length match here with the original shafts or their lengths, the other issue discussed has been the slotted spacer block at the center pin of the differential. In the interest of viewing these parts in relationship, here is a PDF of all pieces in an AMC Model 20 axle for your Jeep CJ-7. The only additional items you need to place in correct parts orientation are the brake backing plates. They are part of the "stack thickness": 1981-86 Jeep CJ AMC Rear Axle Parts Schematics.pdf Let me know where this leads and ask any additional questions that come up. If the space block ends are badly worn or damaged, or if the block is missing, the axle shafts and bearing cups would fit too far into the axle housing, which would create excessive end play. You can inspect the block at the center cavity of an open differential; a bit more difficult if you have factory Trac-Lok (Dana/Spicer limited slip differential). Also note that the axle shaft lengths differ between open and Trac-Lok differential types, and there are narrow and wide-track axle housing widths with different axle shaft lengths as well. Moses
  25. Thank you for the reply: I had already read most of these and found that most of the issues relate to the bearing sticking too far out on the passenger side. My issue is the opposite, my bearing race rides .176 inside of the face the axle tube. If I set it flush on the passenger side the race on the drivers side sits inside the axle housing. I was in under the impression that the passenger side bearing race should be flush with the face of the housing, and be retained in place by the backing plate. If it is allowed to be recessed into the housing than all is well, if it must sit flush than I have no idea what is wrong. I have cross checked all my part numbers and compared axles and all measure correctly.
  26. AMC 20 shimming issue

    Tgrif11...Welcome to the forum community and thanks for participating! We have covered your AMC Model 20 axle issue from a variety of angles, with lots of details and even PDF illustrations. You'll discover footnote concerns that need address. Begin with a review of these references and discussions. Pay attention to the hub/axle nut torque concerns, a commonly overlooked item when you get past the end play and shimming issue. The parts orientation is crucial: Let us know how this goes...If you have further questions after reviewing the topics and discussions, please share... Moses
  27. Hello all: my wife wants to relieve her glory days, so we are now the proud owners of a 1983 CJ-7. I found a lot of issues with the AMC rear end. It had a leak on the drives side that was spilling diff fluid everywhere. While I was attempting to figure out what was going on I found that most of the parts were totally crap so I ditched almost everything from the axles out and bought new parts (axles are the correct length). Now that I have inserted the new axils I am finding that my endplay is .090 with no shims installed, and I am confused as how to proceed. attached are photos of the left and right side. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Tim.
  28. Scrambler82...You and many others, including me, have anticipated the launch of the R2.8L Cummins diesel crate engine package from the Cummins Repower program. Wanting to make the engine package 50-State legal for vehicles like yours, Cummins committed to attaining a California E.O. number before launch. They are apparently still caught up in the E.O. process. Prior to VW's diesel engine issue, a clean diesel crate engine seemed a fast track candidate for an E.O. number. G.M. gasoline V-8 performance crate engine packages were already approved: https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/FAST-Act. (Jeg's, Summit Racing and others sell these packages with a California E.O. number/50-State legal.) Perhaps VW's fiasco with its passenger car diesel has bureaucrats on edge about a diesel engine conversion E.O. If so, this would be unfair to Cummins and the many consumers who could benefit from this tailpipe-compliant engine. The R2.8L Cummins has legitimacy and the support of many thousands. My most recent count at the magazine's URL page covering the 2016 SEMA Show interview with Steve Sanders showed visitors approaching 37,000. These would be earnest seekers of 4x4 diesel power in an affordable package. Last week I read the MSRP on a new and fully loaded Ford F150 Platinum package 4WD with the EcoBoost twin turbo 3.5L gasoline V-6: over $68,000 plus sales tax, licensing and dealer fees. (FYI...You can purchase a 3.5L EcoBoost crate engine for under $7,000 without adapters: http://www.fordracingbyspeedshopdirect.com/3_5L_V_6_ECO_BOOST_CRATE_ENGINE_KIT_p/M-6007-35T.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0K7NBRC7ARIsAEaqLRG-hLZMyvFjlkZM9oBt-9R8hbT2LPO397ug7CXUjkJYoXc-IGDjIH4aAn1PEALw_wcB .) Many consumers not only need a break from this unsustainable kind of new vehicle pricing, they need support for clean tailpipe diesel-power alternatives like the Cummins R2.8L crate engine. This high tech diesel should contend with the California tailpipe requirements for your vehicle prospects. Are you still thinking about the Edge or a Ranger pickup? Do you have a 1982 Jeep Scrambler as your member name hints? The R2.8L would run circles around the "legal" tailpipe requirements for a 1982 Jeep CJ with the 4.2L inline six! Do stay in contact with Advance Adapters. They have a finger on the pulse and considerable time and R&D invested in the adapters and installation packages for this Cummins engine. I'm sure they are as motivated to see a 50-State legal crate engine as the rest of us. Keep us posted on your findings and insights... Moses
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